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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 17, Issue 6 - Dec 2015
Volume 17, Issue 5 - Oct 2015
Volume 17, Issue 4 - Aug 2015
Volume 17, Issue 3 - Jun 2015
Volume 17, Issue 2 - Apr 2015
Volume 17, Issue 1 - Feb 2015
Selecting the target year
Analysis of Fashion Window Display at Printemps Department Store in Paris, France - Focused on the period from 2009 to 2014 -
Heo, Seungyeun ; Kim, Chil Soon ; Kim, Sunha ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 4, 2015, Pages 501~512
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.4.501
This study was to consider and analyze of fashion window display design at Printemps department store in Paris, France which has tried continuously space presentations through the sensibility and differentiated strategy. The framework for analysis of this study was established by related precedent studies. Data collection was done by searching related specialty publications and website of Printemps department store, and the results of this study were drawn through qualitative analysis of experts' group. The results are as follows. Printemps department store set up presentation types of fashion window display design's themes that have been developed by the method of display presentation such as symbolic, ambience, surrealistic, realistic, and information. The most frequently used presentation development techniques applied in windows' VP of Printemps were the 'transferal of daily space', 'transferal of unexpected space', 'exaggeration of animal & plant', and 'descriptive narrative scene.' In addition, the display theme components such as the materials that can be easily accessible in everyday life, unique directing props, the memory or childhood, the image of animal or plant, and lighting etc. We found that the major colors of window display design at Printemps department store were purple, blue and black during the period from 2009 to 2014.
The Development of House Caddie Uniforms Design to Enhance a Golf Course Image
Park, Woomee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 4, 2015, Pages 513~523
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.4.513
The purpose of this study is to develop house caddie uniforms design which reflects the CI and image of 'Golfzon County Sunwoon', a representative golf course in the Honam circle, to enhance a positive image of a golf course and improve house caddies' service quality and their working efficiency. Study methods were as follows. In literature review, the domestic golf industry, golf culture, and house caddie uniforms as one of golf course CI elements were investigated. In empirical study, the formativeness of domestic golf course CI and house caddie uniforms was analyzed. Then, house caddie uniforms were developed using CI which is the symbolic element of a golf course. A concept for uniforms design development was 'Golf & Culture Communication' to symbolically represent an image of IT-based total golf culture club. It was limited to female uniforms design for spring or autumn that is high in application. A symbol and a logo which are symbolic elements of a golf course were freely worn in the form of a brooch. Symbolism and practicality were reinforced using PB(v), R(v), YR(v), and Y(vp) colors only for a golf course. Functionality was improved by using UV protection materials and aesthetics was expressed by reflecting 2014-15 F/W trends.
Creating the Idea of Textile Print Pattern Design Using the Visual Expression of Popular Music
Kim, Ji Yeon ; Oh, Kyung Wha ; Jung, Hye Jung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 4, 2015, Pages 524~540
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.4.524
This study develops textile pattern design ideas created through the visualization of music. Methods of auditory and synesthesia were employed to analyze various attributes of popular music genres and appoint language image, shape image, and color image to obtain their interrelationships. This study provides data that can be used to express emotional images on textile print pattern designs. This research used different genres of popular music as stimuli. The language image was extracted and introduced to the overall color scheme; in addition, the color image was verified. The analysis of the color image was executed by applying it with the color set image scale of I.R.I colors. Then, the color image of the target genre of popular music was examined and analyzed through a color tone system. The preference in shape image was realized through visual images based on basic principles of points, lines, and sides composition; subsequently, an analysis of the emotional image of popular music followed. An examination of the emotional images of different popular music genres have led to the discovery that language image, color image, and shape image all share a common emotional image. There was also a realization that similarity and interrelationship exists in language, color, and shape images experienced by listening to popular music.
A Study on Intentions of Tongyeng Ogwangdae Costume : Focused on dialogs
Kim, Cho-Young ; Kim, Eun-Jung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 4, 2015, Pages 541~549
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.4.541
Korean traditional mask play was done at outdoor to let spectators join the play and take mask at performance and to have disadvantage of poor transfer of dialog to the spectators. Performers transferred dialog directly and/or indirectly by using visual costume, and Tongyeong Ogwangdae with many dialogue expressions concerning the costume made use of proper intention to help spectators understand. In this study, the author watched performance of Tongyeong Ogwangdae to collect and investigate not only image material but also photograph material and to classify intention of the costume into three: First, contents of the dialog were intended to make shape. The costumes of Hongbaek Yangban, Meoktal Yangban and Jorijung of the 2nd section gave spectators contents of the play, and the costume of Halmi Yangban of Nochangtal of the 4th section described dialog of Halmi. Second, dialog had connotative metaphor. The costume of Yeongno of Yeongnotal of the 3rd section symbolized an unfinished dragon, while that of Halmi of Nongchangtal of the 4th section did sacred of Halmi. And, Nongchagtal Ai's costume of the 4th section prayed for value of Ai, richness of the life and fecundity. Third, conflict between characters was intended by indirect media. The costume of Maltukee of metaphor mask of the 2nd section became base of the assertion supporting that Maltukee had better birth history than Yangban had, and the costume of Yeongnoyangban of Yeongnotal of the 3rd section produced conflict at disclosure of identity.
The Clothing Consumption Behavior of Fast Fashion Purchaser according to Environmental Consciousness
Lee, Hyun Ji ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 4, 2015, Pages 550~560
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.4.550
This study investigates clothing consumption behavior of fast fashion purchasers according to environmental consciousness. Questionnaire examined 245 males and females in Busan who experienced fast fashion product purchases. Data were analyzed using factor analysis, t-test. ANOVA, Duncan Test and
. The results are as follows. First, the result showed significant differences in environmental consciousness education according to demographic characteristics. Second, the results showed significant differences in the hedonic pursuit of purchase motivation for fast fashion products according to environmental consciousness. The low environmental awareness group pursued hedonic purchases towards the purchase motivation of fast fashion products. The results showed significant differences in fast fashion disposal behavior according to environmental consciousness; however, not for the disposal motivation of fast fashion. In the disposal behavior of fast fashion, the high environmental awareness group indicated social friendly disposal and the middle environmental awareness group indicated economical disposal. The result showed significant gender differences towards clothing consumption behavior of fast fashion according to demographic characteristics. Males and females showed significant differences in all purchase motivation factor for fast fashion products. They also showed significant differences in economical disposal towards fast fashion disposal behavior.
The Effects of Chinese Tourists' Perceived Experiential Value on Product and Store Satisfaction
Lee, Ha Kyung ; Kim, Jimin ; Kim, Eung Tae ; Choo, Ho Jung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 4, 2015, Pages 561~573
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.4.561
The influence of tourists on the retail market in Korea continues to grow, and China has become the largest outbound-spending nation in the world. Korea's retail industry must comprehend the sophisticated consumption behavior of Chinese tourists. Hence, we explored how the experiential value of shopping in Korea affected Chinese tourists' satisfaction levels regarding stores and products. Findings from this study suggest entertainment and escapism mediate the effect of experiential value on consumer attitudes toward products and stores. This research was conducted with Chinese female tourists who shopped in Korea during their latest visit to this country. CFA and SEM were implemented using AMOS 20.0. The analysis of survey data produced interesting results. Visual appeal, crowding, and service excellence had positive impacts on entertainment, and they had a positive influence on both store satisfaction and product satisfaction. Regarding escapism, crowding and economic benefits had positive impacts, whereas visual appeal and service excellence had no effects. Results showed that escapism had a negative influence on attitudes toward both products and stores. To be clear, escapism refers to the status of absorption by which consumers are highly occupied with pleasant feelings, therefore, shopping when the motive of escapism is high is likely to be less rational and more impulsive. In this study, the diverse roles of different emotions associated with entertainment and escapism in the context of tourism shopping were identified. The findings provide practical implications for developing retail strategies and highlight the importance of the experiential values of shopping for tourists.
Study on the Development of Tools for Measurement of Consumers' Brand Experience Inside and Outside a Fashion Brand Store at a Large Shopping Center
Lee, Jin Hwa ; Kim, Jeong Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 4, 2015, Pages 574~587
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.4.574
This quantitative study helps develop a measurement tool for consumer experiences inside and outside of a fashion brand store in a large shopping center along with a previous qualitative study that utilized a consumer interview. An expert group interview was conducted to verify the result of the previous qualitative study. Subjects were selected through convenient sampling. A self-administered questionnaire was developed to collect the data. We used 666 questionnaires for data analysis. To analyze data, reliability analysis, factor analysis, correlation analysis and measurement equivalence verification were conducted with a statistical package of SPSS 21.0 and Amos 18.0. We used 27 questions in 8 factors for consumer experience inside of the fashion brand store: fashion product, VMD, salesperson responsiveness, salesperson specialty, salesperson's special treatment, salesperson's respect for customers, and positive/negative emotion. We used 27 questions concerning seven factors for the consumer experience outside of a fashion brand store that encompasses a large shopping center: experience with brand and product category diversity, experience with promotion and event, esthetic experience, experience with culture and entertainment, experience with recreational behavior, experience with reputation and sense of pride, and experience with customers.
A Research Study on the Wearing Conditions and Preferences of Slim Fit Tailored Jacket Consumers - Focused on the comparison by body shape among the women in their 30s -
Jeong, JaeChul ; Park, SunKyung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 4, 2015, Pages 588~596
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.4.588
This study aims to provide the basic reference necessary in improving the fitness of a ready-to-wear brand jacket through a research on the wearing conditions and preferences regarding a tailored jacket by body shape of the women in their 30s. The following results were drawn by implementing the research method of the self-administered type survey targeting 201 women in their 30s from August 14~28, 2014. First, the female consumers in their 30s preferred one button slim fit jacket when purchasing a tailored jacket and chose a close-fitting size. Second, the slim fit tailored jacket consumers preferred a jacket with some extra portion in the bust and hip areas but tightly fit in the waist area. Third, when purchasing a jacket under the ready-to-wear size system, the women with a triangle shape similar to a standard body silhouette had less instances of mending a jacket while the women with a big or small rectangle shape different from a standard body silhouette had more experiences of mending a jacket. Accordingly, it is expected of the manufacturers to increase the fitness satisfaction of the consumers by identifying the problems concerning the fitness and suggesting the improvement plans to produce a jacket of a good fitness reflecting the properties of different body shapes through such research on the wearing conditions and preferences regarding a tailored jacket by body shape of the women in their 30s.
A Research on the Actual Wearing Condition of Cycle Wear for Athletes - Focusing on Male Cyclist in Domestic Highschool -
Park, Hyunjeong ; Do, Wolhee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 4, 2015, Pages 597~603
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.4.597
This study investigates the actual domestic and overseas cyclewear wearing conditions for male high school cyclists. The study results provide factors and degree of dissatisfaction as basic data for cyclewear development. This study was conducted on 35 male high school cyclists (freshman to seniors) by a questionnaire and interview method. Study results were: Male high school cyclists considered functionality as most important when they bought cyclewear and the brand they most often bought was a cheap domestic brand. Dissatisfaction with the crotch, thigh circumference and minimum leg circumference was higher than other parts during wearing. A cyclist is more sensitive to wear because they require more lower body motion than other parts. Cyclewear should be: less transformed even by frequent laundering, made of breathable material and use a sewing technique that minimizes air resistance and increases fit the body. Functional pads ergonomically designed with high tactile materials should be developed to prevent 'saddle sore' and groin soreness region that happens because of a lower body bending posture when cycling. A follow-up study is recommended to further develop excellence in cyclewear functionality and dimension suitability for male high school cyclists through the size system.
Suggestion of the Bicycle Wear Design based on Active Senior Women's Preference
Jung, Hee-Kyeong ; Lee, Jeong-Ran ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 4, 2015, Pages 604~612
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.4.604
This study investigates preferred bicycle wear designs that can satisfy active senior consumers. A survey was conducted on 50-60's women who periodically rode bicycles. The results indicated a preference for slim designs and red colors. Jacket designs preferences were for a tight fit for size tolerance, stand collar style, and elastic band details for cuff styles. Pants design preferences were for a whole band waist belt type with a tight fit style such as leggings in pants silhouette, zipper details on the side line and ankle length. They also preferred styles with pads attached to underpants in the pad style and the part of the back waist in the pocket position. The survey showed four kinds of jacket design drawings on an ordinal scale rating. Results indicated a preference for set-in variation jackets with the red and gray color combination. Finally, we demonstrated bicycle wear design suggestions. The jacket applied different armhole line colors connected to the sleeve to make the waist slimmer; in addition, stretchable material helped improve armpit part functionality.
A Study on Expressivity of Virtual Clothing made of 3D Apparel CAD System according to the Physical Properties of Fabric
Oh, Song-Yun ; Ryu, Eun-Joo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 4, 2015, Pages 613~625
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.4.613
This research was conducted to provide basic data to improve expressivity required for virtual clothing to replace actual clothing. For the experiment, 6 materials were selected and 12(2 kinds of length) actual flared skirts were made. At the same time, simulations were carried out on OptiTex Runway 12.0 for 36(12 kinds of skirts
KES, FTU, KES weight/10) kinds of virtual flared skirts, which were applied with the measured property values (thickness, weight, bending, shear, friction, and stretch). Also, the study compared and analyzed the wearing images, silhouette overlapping images, and skirt length measurements of the actual and virtual skirts put on a dummy. As a result, the actual skirts showed clear distinction for each material. In contrast, virtual 1 and 2 expressed fabric 3 in the most similar way, but could not recreate the uniform, soft, and natural flare shape of the actual skirts in general. Virtual 3 formed natural flares as those of the actual skirts, and expressed fabric 1, 5, and 6 in a similar way. However, virtual 3 had too much volume and barely showed any distinction for each material. All of virtual 1, 2, and 3 expressed different flare shapes on the front and back sides of the skirt similarly to the actual skirts, and had a good visual expression for the color and texture of the materials. However, they could not effectively express the elasticity and fabric sagging in the bias direction.
Wearing Conditions of Outdoor Jacket for Senior Men and Research for Actual Product Size of Outdoor Brands
Kwon, Jeongho ; Jung, Hee-Kyeong ; Lee, Jeong-Ran ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 4, 2015, Pages 626~634
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.4.626
This study analyzes the wearing and purchasing conditions of outdoor jackets by senior men who are over 50s, and examines product sizes of outdoor jackets in the market. A total of 134 questionnaires and sizing systems (or product size) of 10 outdoor brands were used as analytical data. The results were: a high number of senior men enjoyed hiking as an outdoor activity, with most of them following this activity1-3 times per month and as a preferred personal activity for over 5 years. Most needed outdoor wear suitable for these daily life activities. Outdoor wear satisfaction tends to decrease as people age. The major reason for the dissatisfaction with outdoor wear was price. Senior men aged 50s and 60s emphasize design and color when purchasing outdoor wear; however, men in their 70s considered price a priority. Senior men preferred outdoor brands based on a comfortable fit. An investigation on 10 outdoor brands indicated that they had not designated a specific target customer. A comparison of the product size of outdoor jackets with a similar silhouette indicated some deviations among sizes; however, the age of customers was not considered. The human body tends to shrink in stature and increase in girth as a person ages; consequently, we need to reflect body shape changes and senior's size in outdoor wear.
Impact of Firefighters' Protective Clothing and Equipment on Upper Body Range of Motion
Kim, Seonyoung ; Park, Huiju ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 4, 2015, Pages 635~645
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.4.635
This study analyzed the range of motion of upper body in different configurations of firefighters' protective clothing and equipment. The purpose of this study was to understand the influence of firefighters' protective clothing and equipment over upper body motion in order to improve design of firefighters' protective clothing and equipment. 12 firefighters' upper body range of motion was analyzed while performing standing and walking trials in five different garment configurations including turnout ensemble, fire boots and the self-contained breathing apparatus. Analysis of upper body range of motion included spinal joints of L5S1, L4L3, T1C7, and C1Head. During standing trials, garment configurations caused a significant difference in range of motions at joints of L5S1, L4L3, T1C7, and C1Head. Analysis on the mean of range of motions at L5S1 and L4L3, showed that firefighters' waist bent forward significantly to a greater extent while they wore a self-contained breathing apparatus. A significantly increased range of motion was found for T1C7 and C1Head while carrying a self-contained breathing apparatus, which indicated an increase in the extension of the trunk and neck backward to stand upright and look squarely. A significant difference in range of motion was also found for L5S1 and L4L3 during walking trials.
Survey on the Actual Wearing Conditions of Naval Duty Uniforms in Naval Vessels
Lee, Hyo-Hyun ; Shin, Sora ; Lee, Joo-Young ; Baek, Yoon Jeong ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 4, 2015, Pages 646~656
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.4.646
This study investigates the conditions of Korean naval duty and combat uniforms to develop a new design. Survey participants consisted of, 723 Sailors (
months in work experience,
in body mass) serving in the Korean Navy for over 12 months. The questionnaire consisted of 72 questions about anthropometric characteristics, preferred design, textiles, wear mobility, and subjective perceptions. The results showed that the preferred colors for future naval duty uniforms were blue in summer (69%) and black in winter (62%). Digital camouflage pattern (60%) and darker colors on the inside of shirt collar (87%) and the edge of sleeves (84%) were preferred. They favored more than one pocket on the upper arm and chest of the shirts (58%), narrower width around pant legs and hems than the current clothing (63%), self-controlled elastic waist (55%) and no cargo type pocket on the pants (45%). There were requirements to alleviate excessive heat stress in summer and to protect from the cold and wind in winter. Wrinkle-free (85%), anti-bacterial (78%), water-proof (75%), oil-proof (90%), and elastic (67%) textiles were preferred for Korean navy uniforms. These results will be applied to develop the next generation Korean navy uniforms.
Evaluation of Thermoregulatory Properties of Thermal Underwear Named as 'Heating Underwear' using Thermal Manikin and Human Performance Test
Lee, Hyo-Hyun ; Lee, Young-Ran ; Kim, Ji-Eun ; Kim, Siyeon ; Lee, Joo-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 4, 2015, Pages 657~665
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.4.657
This study evaluated the thermoregulatory properties of functional thermal underwear ('heating underwear') in markets using a thermal manikin and human wear trials. One ordinary thermal underwear (ORD) and two functional thermal underwear (HEAT1 and HEAT2; manufactured goods, HEAT1: moisture absorbing heat release mechanism, HEAT2: heat storage, release mechanism) were chosen. Thermo-physiological and subjective responses were evaluated at an air temperature of
and air humidity of
with five male subjects (
in body mass). Experimental conditions consisted of four ensembles that included winter clothes (Control: no underwear, ORD, HEAT1, HEAT2). Water-vapor resistance was greater in fabric of HEAT1 than others. The results were: 1) Total thermal insulation (IT) using a thermal manikin were not greater for HEAT1 (0.860clo) and HEAT 2 (0.873clo) than for ORD (0.886clo). 2) There were no significant differences in rectal temperature, mean skin temperature, heart rate and total body mass loss between the four conditions. Microclimate clothing temperature on the back was greater for ORD than for HEAT1 and HEAT2. Subjects felt more comfortable with HEAT1 than for others at rest. HEAT2 was higher in microclimate humidity when compared to other conditions. The results suggest that thermoregulatory properties of 'heating underwear' in market did not differ from those of ordinary thermal underwear in terms of total thermal insulation and thermoregulatory responses in a cold environment.