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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 17, Issue 6 - Dec 2015
Volume 17, Issue 5 - Oct 2015
Volume 17, Issue 4 - Aug 2015
Volume 17, Issue 3 - Jun 2015
Volume 17, Issue 2 - Apr 2015
Volume 17, Issue 1 - Feb 2015
Selecting the target year
Fashion and Sustainable Development in the Educational Aspects
Do, Wol-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 5, 2015, Pages 681~690
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.5.681
Sustainability has been a important issue in fashion industry that reflects the modern phase of the time. More education institutions than ever before are beginning to offer specialized courses, certificates and degrees related to sustainability in fashion, and many fashion institutions are working to embed sustainability issues into the educational contents. In this study, I investigate how sustainability is being integrated into the curriculum of leading fashion institutions, corporate management activity across the world and overview the world leading educational programmes related to sustainable fashion, pulling out the unique expertise and areas of specialization for each institution. In conclusion, the sustainable fashion were still not widely promoted domestical fashion institutions compare with other foreign leading fashion institutions. This happens in fashion business as well. Korean fashion institutions have to make educational program and certificates and degrees related to sustainability because the educational program can transform domestic fashion industry to sustainable fashion leading country level.
The Expressional Characteristics and Meanings of Indeterminacy in Fashion Illustrations
Kim, Soon Ja ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 5, 2015, Pages 691~703
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.5.691
Indeterminacy maintains that the simultaneous measurement of object location and speed is theoretically impossible. This study present indeterminacy as a theoretic tool to interpret a variety of expression characteristics that seem disorderly in recent fashion illustrations; in addition, it analyzes the characteristics and meaning of indeterminacy as expressed in fashion illustrations. This study reviews concepts and related theories on indeterminacy to examine characteristics of indeterminacy expressed in the arts and fashion; subsequently, indeterminacy characteristics found in fashion illustrations are analyzed. In expressing the fashion figure, indeterminacy finds expression in a distorted figure transformations that include a hybridized combination of heterogeneous forms that dismantle and reconstruct the human body. The hybridized body of combined machines, animals and plants indicates an indeterminate body endlessly transforming itself. Indeterminate space expression finds expression in space expression by projection with the overlapping and juxtaposition of irrelevant constituent elements as well as a space expression from the insertion of unexpected images. An unclarified inconclusive open space provides space with fluidity, causes space expansion and conveys inconclusive meaning. Indeterminate expressions found in fashion illustrations reveal the ambiguity and complexity of a post-modern society with polysemous aesthetic values and the expanded visual concepts of fashion illustrations.
A Study on the Analysis of Fashion Fabric Trend and the Acceptance by Collection - Focus on Domestic and International Collections in 2007 S/S ~ 2010 S/S -
Yun, Jae Shim ; Kim, Soon Ja ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 5, 2015, Pages 704~717
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.5.704
In modern fashion fabrics became an important element that leads the current of fashion beyond materials. Also, it has a creative role that reflects emotional and visual aspects, and it is considered as a mega trend that will lead the
century fashion industry. The value of fashion products is affected not only by the style and design but also the sensuous properties like color, pattern, texture, and drape of fabrics. Therefore, in this study, characteristics of fabric trend between 2007 S/S and 2010 S/S will be analyzed focused on Premiere Vision, which influenced many Korean fashion trend information companies, while looking into the fabric trends shown in the world's top four collections-Paris, Milan, London, and New York-and Seoul collection, and comparing and analyzing the acceptance level of those. Fashion fabric is an important part in fashion design and change with social environment and value, its considered that the role and importance of subject matters increases in changing fashion design toward globalization by meeting various personality which is diversified more and more. It is to provide specific and practical data to be used for the Korean fashion industry, which can be used as useful information for future fabric researchers and people in the fashion industry for integrated study of fashion design and fashion fabric.
Analysis of Design Concept based on the Level of Consistency in Fashion Show Models' Physical Appearance - Focus on S/S Paris Collection 2014 -
Lee, Shin-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 5, 2015, Pages 718~730
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.5.718
This study investigated the correlation between the level of consistency in fashion show models' appearance and design concept through a statistical and qualitative analysis of the S/S Paris Collection 2014. The following conclusions have been drawn in this study. First, the percentage of models of color was very low in regards to the physical appearance of models; in addition, there was a higher percentage of Caucasian models for collections with a high level of consistency in models' physical appearance. Collections with a high percentage of models of color indicate more casual design concepts and the promotion of diversity in racial background is considered more effective for street fashion. Second, collections with a high level of consistency in models' physical appearance tend to control various elements that constitute a physical appearance through more detailed planning and stage direction. Third, there is a tendency to reinforce design concepts by creating a consistency in the overall physical appearance of models. This affirms that their physical appearance is determined by brand (i.e. designer) and is used to maximize a design concept delivery. The results of this study suggests that the physical appearance of models must be determined in line with the design concept versus detailed planning that must consider audience perspectives as well as adjust the show's length and the interval between each model appearing on the stage.
Annotation Technique Development based on Apparel Attributes for Visual Apparel Search Technology
Lee, Eun-Kyung ; Kim, Yang-Weon ; Kim, Seon-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 5, 2015, Pages 731~740
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.5.731
Mobile (smartphone) search engine marketing is increasingly important. Accordingly, the development of visual apparel search technology to obtain easier and faster access to visual information in the apparel field is urgently needed. This study helps establish a proper classifying system for an apparel search after an analysis of search techniques for apparel search applications and existing domestic and overseas apparel sites. An annotation technique is developed in accordance with visual attributes and apparel categories based on collected data obtained by web crawling and apparel images collecting. The categorical composition of apparel is divided into wearing, image and style. The web evaluation site traces the correlations of the apparel category and apparel factors as dependent upon visual attributes. An appraisal team of 10 individuals evaluated 2860 pieces of merchandise images. Data analysis consisted of correlations between apparel, sleeve length and apparel category (based on an average analysis), and correlation between fastener and apparel category (based on an average analysis). The study results can be considered as an epoch-making mobile apparel search system that can contribute to enhancing consumer convenience since it enables an effective search of type, price, distributor, and apparel image by a mobile photographing of the wearing state.
Fashion Consumers' Purchase Intention on Cross-border Online Shopping
Lee, Joo Young ; Choo, Ho Jung ; Lee, Hyejoo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 5, 2015, Pages 741~753
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.5.741
This study identified factors that influenced fashion consumers' purchase intentions for cross-border online shopping. This study utilized three outshopping motivation dimensions (utilitarian, social, and hedonic) to empirically verify research questions. The moderating effects of consumers' perceived risks between cross-border online shopping motivations and behavioral intention were also tested on Korean female consumers in their 20s to 40s who had experience purchasing fashion goods through a cross-border online shopping channel within a year. The research are as follows. First, the three motivations have positive effects on cross-border online shopping purchase intentions. Fashion consumers are greatly influenced by hedonic motivation compared to utilitarian and social motivations. Second, perceived risks do not negatively influence cross-border online shopping purchase intentions. Finally, there exists moderating effects of perceived risks between utilitarian motivation and cross-border online shopping purchase intentions. This study reveals motivational and moderating factors that influence fashion consumers to shop through a cross-border online shopping channel. It contributes to prior studies by extending the research range of cross-border online shopping into fashion. Marketers and retailers should note that fashion consumers are most influenced by hedonic motivation when shopping in cross-border online malls.
Suggesting the Curriculum Contents of Clothing and Textiles by Understanding Jobs related to Global Sourcing
Kim, Soo Kyoung ; Park, Minjung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 5, 2015, Pages 754~769
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.5.754
Global sourcing refers to activities performed to acquire materials, finished products and apparel production all around the world. The purposes of the study were to examine basic job requirements and primary skills of sales team and supporting team in global sourcing companies, to investigate educational programs provided by the companies or other educational institutions, and to examine courses to be newly established in the curriculum of clothing and textile majors. The results of the study found that the ability to use English and communication skills were important to perform their tasks (sales and supporting teams). The results revealed that fabric and textile, sewing, and apparel production process were the most frequently taken educational programs provided by global sourcing companies and English classes were the most frequently taken educational programs in the other educational institutions. The results also found that the clothing and textile curriculum need to add classes that help sales and supporting teams perform global sourcing tasks, such as fashion practical English, fabric and textile, apparel production processes, textile and apparel trades, fiber and fabric testing, and presentation skills. The study suggested educational directions for developing curriculum contents of clothing and textiles and cultivating professionals in the global sourcing industries.
Consumer Responses to Stockouts in Online Fashion Stores: Indicating Effects of Psychological Reactance and Emotion
Shin, Hyesun ; Hur, Hee Jin ; Choo, Ho Jung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 5, 2015, Pages 770~780
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.5.770
This study intended to explore fundamental causes affecting consumers' response actions from psychological factors in the situation of sellout occurring during shopping in online fashion stores. In addition, this study devised a virtual online shop in order to measure consumers' cognitive and emotional psychological responses they experienced when goods were sold out. The subjects involved women in 20s~30s, major customers of online shopping, and the subjects were randomly allocated to one of eight questionnaire forms (2(stockout size: high vs low)
(product assortment similarity: similar vs. dissimilar)
(restocking cue: included vs excluded)). The number of final data used for the analysis was 336 and through SPSS 21.0 program, two-way ANOVA and bootstrap were utilized. The analysis result was that consumers' psychological responses (emotions, psychological reactance) of online shops differed by means of varying stockout situations. The stockout size had positive effect on psychological reactance and negative emotions. On the other hand, there was no difference in positive emotions (arousal) according to stockout size. In stockout situation of online fashion store, the moderating effect of product assortment similarity and restocking cues were verified. According to the analysis result, interaction effects between stockout size and restocking cues, product stockout size and product assortment for psychological reactance were significant. Lastly, the mediation effect of psychological reactance and emotion between stockout size and behavioral response was tested. As a result, the moderated mediation effects of psychological reactance for substitute were significant when product assortment was dissimilar and restocking cue was exclude.
A Development of Functional Motorcycle Jacket for Quick Service Transporter
Sohn, Jae Min ; Oh, Song-Yun ; Kim, Eun Kyong ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 5, 2015, Pages 781~792
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.5.781
This study aims to develop a spring/fall motorcycle jacket for quick service transporter. Depending on the results of the previous research, this study produced the tested jacket which was improved in material, pattern, and design. For the tested jacket, 100% polyester fabric excellent in strength, durability and abrasion-resistance was selected as a major material, and Cordura was used as a partial material to improve the strength and abrasion-resistance of the sleeve side lines, elbow and shoulder areas. The retro-reflection material was applied partially in order to improve visibility of the jacket in the night or in a dark place. A total of 7 pockets were composed in the jacket for the sufficient storage spaces. The functional design elements such as the 2-way zipper and the placket at the center front, the action pleats at the upper part of back armholes, the pit-zip at armpit were applied. In addition, the sleeve pattern was bent with the shape of elbow curvature in time of driving and the back length of the jacket was lengthened 4cm. As a result of the appearance assessment, there was a significant difference from the existing jacket in all items but chest size, shoulder width, cuffs circumference, and jacket hemline circumference. In motion adaptability and field activity appropriateness assessments, the assessment grade for all items was found to be commonly higher than that of the existing jacket, and thus, the tested jacket was assessed to be suitable for a motorcycle jacket design for the quick service transporters.
Development of Modern Dolbok Design Based on Traditional Hanbok Style
Lee, Ji Won ; Song, Jung A ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 5, 2015, Pages 793~799
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.5.793
Hanboks have evolved throughout time; for example, the curved Barae has changed into a more modern and sophisticated straight one. The development of staining techniques has increased color selections with more luxurious designs. I suggested a design of Dolbok that considers functionality, practicality and economic feasibility through a comparison of past and present designs. I suggested a fusion Hanbok based on a traditional Dolbok for baby boys and girls. An abundance of cheap resources has decreased the tradition of hand down clothes; therefore, I created functional and economic methods to adjust a Hanbok for kids to wear a long time. First, I made it possible to adjust the length of a skirt by a slip stitch (or catch) stitch with a Seurandan (ornate lower band) and placed the button on shoulder part of the skirt for baby girls. The width of skirt is designed for a 4 year old instead of 1 year old to adjust the size and compensate for growing kids; however, the clothes still look stylish despite the overlapped area. Second, I made a baby boy's vest with a belt that follows traditional methods that were comfortable for width variation. Third, I made Geodeulji (sleeve-ends trimmed with wide bias) that enabled long or short sleeves. Geodeulji made with a variety of fabric colors will enhance the decorative effect. Fourth, I made the width of clothes adjustable by putting Korum (tie) ON Jeogori for baby boys and girls. There are many studies on Hanboks but few reports on modern Dolbok. I believe that designers should further study fusion Hanboks within framework of traditional Hanbok designs to increase comfort and appeal.
A Development of Baseball Uniforms for Social Baseball Players
Kim, Ye Jin ; Kim, Eun Kyong ; Ryu, Eun-Joo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 5, 2015, Pages 800~814
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.5.800
This study develops baseball uniforms for amateur baseball players with excellent appearance and functional movement. This study selected a conventional baseball uniform and developed a new one for amateur baseball players with improved function and appearance based on previous research results. In case of developed baseball uniform materials, this study used polyurethane mixed fabric for the top to improve flexibility. A mesh material was used at the armpit, back, and bottom of the top, side line of pants and pockets to improve breathability. In addition, quilted material was added to the knee to improve durability and protection. For the patterns and design, this study used a gusset under the arm to assist in comfortable movement as well as reduced the length of the top and circumference of the hem to decrease unnecessary parts. For the pants, this study used a waistband gripper to avoid the top riding up, added darts behind the knees to bend comfortably, and added additional fabric inside the hem to prevent dirt. In addition, we reduced the width and length of the pants. Wearing evaluation was divided into appearance evaluation by experts and on-site-wearing test by baseball players. The wearing evaluation results for the developed baseball uniform indicated higher evaluations than a conventional baseball uniform in all sections as well as showed significant differences in all sections. The result of movement adaptability evaluation showed the highest satisfaction for 'the top does not ride up' and 'dirt do not get in'.
Analysis of Middle Aged and Elderly Women's Foot Shapes for Shoe Design
Lim, Ho-Sun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 5, 2015, Pages 815~827
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.5.815
This study analyzes the characteristics by age and type for middle aged and elderly women foot shapes aged 40-69 years. ANOVA, factor, and cluster analyzed middle aged and elderly women's foot shapes. The results of the study are as follows. First, higher age groups tended to have smaller foot lengths, ball/instep circumferences, circumferences, and ball heights with larger heel height values and higher degrees of gathering of toe 1 and toe 5 toward the feet reference axis. Second, foot lengths were 220 mm-240 mm and the ball circumference's size symbol in high frequency sections were distributed from E to EEEE in the 40s and 60s groups and from D to EEEE in the 50s group. Third, eight factors were extracted through the factor analyses of middle aged and elderly women's foot measurement items. Fourth, a cluster analyses classified the subjects into four types. Type 1 is a normal foot type with medium foot length and small ball circumference and type 2 is a long and flat foot type with a type with large foot length and ball circumference values as well as small ball height values. Type 3 is a thick foot type with a medium foot length, large ball circumference, large ball height and type 4 is a toe deformation foot type with medium foot length, small ball circumference, and a high degree of toe gathering toward the center.
Dyeability and Functionality of Rayon Fabrics Treated with Persimmon Juice
Bae, Jung-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 5, 2015, Pages 828~837
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.5.828
The results of the analysis of dyed rayon fabrics treated with persimmon juice by padding are as follows. Rayon fabrics were dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by a padding mangle for the development of dyeability. The merits of padding-based dyeing were easier color reproduction (versus traditional hand dyeing) of hard to obtain colors and color fastness to light and laundering. The add on weight increased with the number of padding times, and the color of the dyed fabrics had red-yellow colors with low brightness and high chromatic colors. Properties of fabrics treated with persimmon juice were:
level of light resistance,
perspiration fastness levels, rubbing fastness, and
washing fastness levels. Dyed fabrics exposed to UV light have a deep yellow-red color that increased lightness and darken when exposed to sunlight. Rayon fabrics of a treated premordant indicated strong yellow colors, especially fabrics with Fe mordant indicated greenish red-yellow colors. The direction of the weft and warp increased and improved water-repellent qualities that increased with the number of dyeing padding times and persimmon juice; however, there was less anti-crease resistance. In addition, fabrics had good antibacterial activity and deodorization.
Antibiosis against Super Bacteria from Natural Dyeing with Elm Bark Extract
Choi, Na Young ; Park, Hee-Su ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 5, 2015, Pages 838~843
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.5.838
In this study, a cotton knit was dyed with elm bark extract; subsequently, the dyed fabric was measured according to the types of mordants and the preprocessing cationizers used. Additionally, antibiosis against super bacteria was examined. The results follow. First, the color of the dyed cotton knit appeared reddish and yellowish for fabrics treated with non-mordants and mordants. When preprocessing with a cationizer was conducted, the dyeing properties were the best. Second. even when mordants were not used for dyeing, color fastness after washing, sweating, and rubbing was generally good Grade 4 and 5. Color fastness after exposure to sunlight was the best Grade 4 for fabric prepared with ferrous sulfate as the mordant. Third. as for antimicrobial properties, or resistance to super bacteria, the growth of bacteria was suppressed in a meaningful way for fabrics treated with non-mordants and mordants, compared to the control group fabric. The dyeing methods with the most powerful antimicrobial effects were dyeing after preprocessing with a cationizer and preparing fabric with copper sulfate as the mordant. The results stated above show that in case of dyeing with elm bark extract, preprocessing of the cotton knit with a cationizer and dying with copper mordant displayed high levels of antimicrobial properties that were useful for resisting super bacteria. Of these the dyeing properties were the best when preprocessing with a cationizer.
A Study of Sensing Locations for ECG Monitoring Clothing based on the Skin Change rate
Cho, Hakyung ; Cho, Sang woo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 5, 2015, Pages 844~853
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.5.844
Recently, according to change of lifestyle and increase of concerning in health, needs of the smart clothing based on the vital sign monitoring have increased. Along with this trend, smart clothing for ECG monitoring has been studied various way as textile electrode, clothing design and so on. Smart clothing for ECG monitoring can become a comfortable system which enables continuous vital sign monitoring in daily use. But, smart clothing for ECG monitoring has a weakness on artifact during motion. One of the motion artifact caused by shifting of the electrode position was affected skin change by motion. The aim of this study was to suggest electrode locations for clothing of ECG monitoring to reduce of motion artifacts. Therefore, change of skin surface during the movement were measured and analyzed in order to find location to minimize motion artifacts in ECG monitoring clothing by 3D motion capture. For the experiment, the subjects consisted of 5 males and 5 females in their 20' with average physique. As a result, the optimal location for ECG monitoring was deducted under the bust line and scapula which have least motion artifact. These locations were abstracted to be least affected by movement in this research.
Hand and Preference Evaluation of Laminated Waterproof Breathable Fabric
Roh, Eui Kyung ; Oh, Kyung Wha ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 5, 2015, Pages 854~861
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.5.854
This study evaluates the objective and subjective hand as well as the preference for hand and outdoor jackets on laminated waterproof breathable fabrics with different constituent characteristics to identify those best suited for consumer needs. Mechanical properties and objective hands were measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand and the preference of laminated waterproof breathable fabric for outdoor jackets were rated by the 20's and 30's women experts with tactile and visual senses that utilized a questionnaire with a seven-point semantic differential scale; subsequently, the flexibility and compressive elasticity of laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were low. However, light and thin waterproof breathable fabrics with a smooth surface had high scores in smoothness, fullness & softness and total hand value. In addition, laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were classified into three hand factors: flexibility, density, and surface properties. There were significant differences on flexibility and surface property perceptions, hand and out-door jackets preferences according to the characteristics of waterproof breathable fabrics. The hand preference of the laminated waterproof breathable fabric improved with decreasing 2HB and increasing EM. However, EM showed positive effect for outdoor jacket preferences. Those that were flexible and smooth were preferred for outdoor jackets.