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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 18, Issue 4 - Aug 2016
Volume 18, Issue 3 - Jun 2016
Volume 18, Issue 2 - Apr 2016
Volume 18, Issue 1 - Feb 2016
Selecting the target year
A Study on Play in Contemporary Fashion Photographs
Kim, Jongsun ; Chun, Jae Hoon ; Ha, Jisoo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 18, issue 3, 2016, Pages 261~271
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2016.18.3.261
The aim of this study was to gain an understanding of the element playfulness in fashion photographs related to openness and multiple significance in contemporary art. A total of 105 fashion photographs from US and UK Vogue magazine editorials and advertisements for the last five years were selected for the study. The photographs were analyzed in two main categories - the contextual element of themes, and the elements of visual expression; composition, models, objects and editing technology. The element of playfulness in the photographs were found to be divided into themes of infantile fantasy, social satire and situational dissonance, and elements of visual expression were found to express image distortion, expansion, exaggeration, reduction, and optical illusions. A photography type termed as infantile fantasy and social satire have descriptive characteristics and usually deliver the message by using models and objects to present a certain situation or express social satirical viewpoint and reflective attitude by using objects and photographic skills. A photography type termed as situational dissonance is characterized by immediately understood expressions and usually clarify the message by using a photographic technology such as editing the printed image or expect the model to express an exaggerated poses and ridiculous expressions, causing an optical illusion. Visually expressed and composed scene using composition, models, objects and editing technology is a specific character of photograph and due to the advances in computer editing technology it has been able to express the various playfulness.
An Investigation into the Nurturing Strategy of Korean Young Designers in the International Market Expansion - Based on London`s Young Designers` Support Programs -
Kim, Hye Eun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 18, issue 3, 2016, Pages 272~281
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2016.18.3.272
From the year 2000 on, Seoul has aimed to be a fashion city, and thus has been supporting young designers through Seoul Fashion Creative Studio, Generation Next, Le Dome, Concept Korea, etc. London is famous for nurturing young designers through the joint help of government, schools and industries: Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane and Peter Pilotto are successful cases. Therefore, this research aims to suggest a direction for policies aimed at helping young designers in the international market, on the basis of London`s nurturing programs and ideas from a literature review and case studies. The results are below. Firstly, a step-by-step supporting program is recommended. Secondly, long-lasting, sustainable programs are considered essential to support designers after the end of their contracts. Thirdly, practical assistance is preferred to monetary funding in order to lighten the designers` lot and in the interests of transparency. The mentoring service should be strengthened for the designers to eventually become independent. The support should be tailor-made according to items. Fourthly, the supporting programs should be promoted. Fifthly, government and industries should collaborate. Sixthly, `de minimis` against overlapped support should be legislated. For these, the change of supporting method can be helpful; an independent administrative organisation plans and collects funds from governments and companies. Through these programs and any subsequent studies, Seoul could become a fashion city where young designers play active roles at a global level.
Research on Employment in Korean Designer Fashion Industry
Jung, Jaewoo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 18, issue 3, 2016, Pages 282~288
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2016.18.3.282
This project aims to provide information on organizations and characteristics of Korean designer fashion industry in order to improve employment environment in fashion designer brands. This study utilizes the questionnaires and interviews with designers or human resources managers in Korean designer brands for forms, size and way of employment. The result shows that firstly, the size of employment in fashion designer brands is almost operated by small-scale human resources. Secondly, It is researched that they recruit less than 10 temporary employees per a brand on average as a problem. Thirdly, there are differences in business according to forms of employment. As researched, permanent employees usually conduct in design, products plan and production management, but, temporary employees conduct as a business assistant and salespeople. Fourthly, it is revealed that average salaries for permanents in fashion designer brands are between 1,510,000 and 2,000,000 won as the most people said. Moreover, the average salaries for temporaries are similar with permanents` as between 1,170,000 and 1,500,000 won. In fifth, in terms of the ways for recruitment, the proportion of job seekers who find a job by nonscheduled admission and special employment is larger than other ways. Finally, as a result of a research on an employment contract, employees have written the employment contract with the brands.
A Study on the Late 19th century Children`s Costumes and Games of Genre Paintings by Jungeun Kim
Choi, Eunjoo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 18, issue 3, 2016, Pages 289~300
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2016.18.3.289
This study surveys children`s costumes and games from the 11 Genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(Stewart Culin 1858-1929)". The character of the general dress-costumes, games and the culture of life from the late
century in genre painting of Junkeun Kim are as follows. The study results on the games are as follow. The boy`s games are kite-flying, spinning tops, playing shuttlecock with the feet, blindman`s buff, yut("Four-Stick Game"). Girl`s games are seesaw with board, blindman`s buff, marbles. Combined games are mount shoulder, sledge, tightrope walking for men with boy. The strengthen one`s body type were seesaw with board, tightrope walking, the compete score type were playing shuttlecock with the feet, marbles and the multi complex type were yut("Four-Stick Game"), kite-flying. Through genre painting in the
century we know a boy`s `Jeogori `and `Ba-ji` were similar to a modern man`s and boy`s `Hanbok` with a traditional method of wearing. We believe that the originality of a traditional costume was an unchangeable characteristic. Girl`s `Jeogori` and `Chi-ma` changed in length and width, and method of wearing; however, the basic shape did not change. The analysis for artist`s genre painting which was ordered by a foreigner and the late of
century`s children`s costume and game of life culture is useful to match the counters and show how to wear a modern Korean costume used to understand the `Hanbok` and establish a costume of life.
Global Pricing Strategy of the SPA Brand: Comparison with GDP and Big Mac Index
Kim, Seo Jeong ; Lee, Ji Yeon ; Lee, Kyu-Hye ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 18, issue 3, 2016, Pages 301~316
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2016.18.3.301
Due to the dramatic increase in consumers` price sensitivity and growing importance for global retailers to create relevant price strategies, this study investigates the global pricing strategy of the main SPA brands such as ZARA, H&M and UNIQLO. Based on price information shown on official website, the study developed SPA brand index by using exchange rates in terms of US dollars and ratio of differences between the local price and the US price. These figures were compared with GDP per person data in order to analyze each brand`s price level against the income level. The study also compared SPA brand index with Big Mac index to identify the difference in price levels between the fast fashion market and the fast food market. ZARA and H&M were mostly targeting Middle East and Asia as a high-price market when considering index only. After taking the income level into account, however, Asia came out be the highest price market and Middle East was similar to the US market. On the other hand, UNIQLO targeted Asia as the lowest price market and the US and EU as the highest in terms of index only. But, Asia came out to be the highest price zone after considering the income level while the price of the US and EU was reasonable. Comparison with Big Mac Index indicated that most of Asia had a higher price level of the fashion market than the food market, whereas most European countries had a similar or high-price level of food market.
Segmentation of Chinese Fashion Product Consumers according to Internet Shopping Values and Their Online Word-of-Mouth and Purchase Behavior
Yin, Mei ; Yu, Haekyung ; Hwang, Seona ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 18, issue 3, 2016, Pages 317~326
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2016.18.3.317
The main purposes of this study were to segment Chinese consumers who purchase fashion products through internet commerce according to internet shopping values, to compare their online word-of-mouth acceptance and dissemination behavior, and to examine the demographic characteristics and purchase behavior of the segments. 715 questionnaires were collected through internet survey from January
, 2015 and a total of 488 were used for the final data analysis. The respondents were twenty to thirty nine years old men and women living in all over China. Hedonic and utilitarian shopping values were identified through factor analysis and based on the shopping values, the respondents were categorized into four groups-ambivalent shopping value group, hedonic shopping value group, utilitarian shopping value group and indifferent group. Among these groups, there were significant differences in terms of online word-of-mouth acceptance as well as dissemination level and motivation. In overall, ambivalent shopping value group showed high online word-of-mouth acceptance as well as dissemination motivation. The groups also showed significant differences in clothing selection criteria, frequently purchased internet shopping sites, online clothing shopping frequency and information sources. The groups also differed in terms of age, residential area, education level, occupation and income. However, there were no significant differences in gender and marital status among the groups.
Lower Body Type Classification by Buttocks Shapes of Korean Women in Their 20`s
Choi, Se-Lin ; Do, Wol-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 18, issue 3, 2016, Pages 327~337
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2016.18.3.327
The purpose of this study is for size suitability and fitness improvement for Korean 20`s women. This study has classified hip types of 20`s women by the 6th Korean Anthropometric Survey(Size Korean), then compared their lower body-type by hip types each other. The results are as follows. Factor analysis in sorting hip types can be explained 77.72% by nine factors. And cluster analysis can be divided into three types. Type 1 is referred to as a general type which has the largest size in the `Hip circumference`, but the buttocks`s horizontal sizes are in the middle size besides the hip line. Type 2 is referred to as a protruding type in upper buttocks which is large in protruding volume of upper buttocks, but the buttock`s horizontal sizes are small including `Hip circumference`, and buttock`s horizontal section form close to circle. Type 3 is referred to as a type which is contrary to Type 2. Type 3 is small in protruding volume of upper buttocks, but large in lower buttocks, and the protrusions in whole buttocks are small, so the side view of Type 3 made gentle fit shape. By these results, the study could classify lower body of 20`s women, and it can be basic data for new sizing systems and pattern development of bottoms.
Evaluation Method for Fit of Golf wears based on 3D Motion Analysis - Focus on motion range of upper body -
Chung, Hye-Won ; Shin, Ju-Young Annie ; Nam, Yun-Ja ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 18, issue 3, 2016, Pages 338~350
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2016.18.3.338
The purpose of this study is to analyze joint angle for a range of swing motion derived through 3D motion analysis in order to design the ergonomic golf wear, use it for evaluation method of apparel fit to improve exercise functionality and provide the basic materials necessary for designing clothes. In order to do this, the subjects for this study were 3 men of age 20s. The data for a range of motion of golf swing were collected by using equipment for 3D motion analysis and then were used for analysis of joint angles and evaluation method of apparel fit. Range of motion was derived through 3D motion analysis of golf swing motion and joint angles for items of joint motion item and of X, Y, and Z-axis were calculated, respectively. In order to set the evaluation questions for evaluation of apparel fit, to find a range of motion at the maximal value and the minimal value of swing motion. As a result, during the swinging motion, neck extension, right shoulder extension, right/left elbow extension, right/left elbow supination did not appear. Items of joint motion showing the maximum at range of each swing motion were applied into 55 questions and consisted. The results of this study were meaningful as a basic study to apply 3D motion analysis to the fashion industry. It`s expected to be used to design functional clothing.
On-Site Survey of Satisfaction with Job Environments and Training Situation of the Korean Sewing Technicians
Choi, Sunyoon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 18, issue 3, 2016, Pages 351~362
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2016.18.3.351
Domestic sewing industry is showing signs of a redevelopment and the demands of the sewing technician are gradually increasing. This study would investigate the opinions of sewing technicians about job environments and training situation in order to solve the shortage of sewing manpower. As a result of a survey with 100 sewing technicians, of the pay systems, the salary system showed the highest satisfaction and preference. Their satisfaction with pay was low. There was a tendency that they work on Saturdays and national holidays, and their satisfaction with the number of holidays was low. Most worked for 10 to 11 hours per day, and they showed low satisfaction with their working hours. There were no places to rest in the company. They showed law satisfaction with the air and vent. The sewing technicians were concerned about respiratory and musculoskeletal diseases because of the working and workplace environment and needed places to rest, vent facilities, and spacious and comfortable spaces. The total lead-time that they were sent to the field as skilled workers was 1 to less than 2 years; they received training from seniors; and the training period, mostly, was 6 months to 2 years. Most of the sewing technicians surveyed had the expertise, did not feel the necessity of retraining related to their tasks, and did not have any willingness to take reorientation due to a lack of time even with their tasks.
Development and Wearability Evaluation of All-Fabric Integrated Smart Jacket for a Temperature-regulating System Based on User Experience Design
Kim, Sareum ; Roh, Jung-Sim ; Lee, Eun Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 18, issue 3, 2016, Pages 363~373
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2016.18.3.363
This study aims to develop an all-fabric integrated smart jacket in order to create a temperature-regulating system based on a user experience design. For this research, previous research technologies of a textile switch interface and a temperature-regulating system were utilized and a unifying technology for the all-fabric integrated smart jacket was developed which can provide the appropriate temperature environments to the human body. A self-heating textile was applied at the areas of the back and hood in the final tested jacket, and an embroidery circuit was developed in the form of a rectangle in the back and in both ears of the hood, taking into account the pattern of the jacket part where it was be applied and the embroidery production method. The textile switch interface was designed in a three-layer structure: an embroidery circuit line in a conductive yarn, an interval material, and a conductive sensing material, and it was made to work with the input and output sensors through the multiple input method. After the all-fabric integrated smart jacket was produced according to the pattern, all of the textile band lines for transmission were gathered and connected with a miniature module for controlling temperature and then integrated into the inside of the left chest pocket of the jacket. After the users put on this jacket, they were asked to assess the wearing satisfaction. Most of them reported a very low level of irritation and discomfort and said that the jacket was as comfortable as everyday clothing.
A Study on Improvement of Horseback Riding Pants I
Kwon, Sookhee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 18, issue 3, 2016, Pages 374~379
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2016.18.3.374
This study has investigated improvement points of existing products by analyzing problems of horseback riding pants sold in market and by investigating wearing feeling of horseback riders. The purpose of this study is to suggest horseback riding pants which fit to body types of Korean adult women and also have improved functionality by reflecting findings of the study. The contents of this study is believed to suggest useful results on improvement of horseback riding pants sold in market; (1) By visiting hands-on experiencing horseback riding facilities, questionnaire investigation was carried out and we find problems of existing horseback riding pants. (2) Materials, designs and patterns of products sold in market are analyzed for improvement of horse-riding pants appropriate for Korean adult women body types. (3) Based on the results of previous analysis, this study was investigated wearing satisfaction after manufacturing improved horseback riding pants. As results of investigating wearing feeling for products manufactured with pattern designs reflecting the analysis result of existing horseback riding clothes as well as wearing feeling of horseback riders, it was possible to prevent wounds of bodies after horseback riding and the riders expressed high satisfaction for the products manufactured based on the research results.
Study of UV Protection, Deodorization and Antimicrobial Properties of Cotton Fabrics Dyed with the Liquids Extracted from Salvia Plebia R. Br.
Jang, Hyun-Joo ; Jung, Jin-Soun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 18, issue 3, 2016, Pages 380~386
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2016.18.3.380
This study examined the stainability and functionality of cotton dyed with the extract of Salvia Plebia R. Br. as a research preceding the development of health functional materials and fashion products with a healing motif. The CIELAB measurements of the cotton fabric dyed with the extract of Salvia Plebia R. Br. showed 73.32 for
, 1.7 for
, and 37.78 for
, while the Munsell measurements exhibited 2.63Y in color, 7.18 of brightness, and 5.49 of chroma. The degree of staining resulting from color fastness to laundering, and that resulting from color fastness to perspiration (acid and alkaline), as well as the level of color fastness to crocking (wet and dry) all stayed between relatively higher levels of 4 and 5. The fabric dyed also exhibited SPF 50+, an outstanding sun blocking performance. The deodorization rate was also excellent, rising from 97% to over 99% when the time elapsed increased from 30 minutes to 120 minutes. The fabric dyed also showed a 99.6% antimicrobial activity against staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538, and a 71.4% antimicrobial activity against Klebsiella pneumoniae ATCC 4352. The aforementioned findings indicate that fabrics dyed with the extract of Salvia Plebia R. Br. contain the potential to be developed for use as health-related materials and fashion products that promote healing.