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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 4, Issue 6 - Dec 2002
Volume 4, Issue 4 - Aug 2002
Volume 4, Issue 3 - Jun 2002
Volume 4, Issue 2 - Apr 2002
Volume 4, Issue 1 - Feb 2002
Volume 4, Issue 5 - 00 2002
Selecting the target year
우리나라 중·소 섬유기업 활성화방안 연구
Kim, Mun-Young ; Lim, Heoung-Shick ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 4, issue 4, 2002, Pages 301~309
자외선이 건강에 미치는 영향
Onaka, Tadakatsu ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 4, issue 4, 2002, Pages 310~316
The Formative Aesthetic of Paco Rabanne's Works with Material
Kim, Jee-Yeon ; Lee, Kyoung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 4, issue 4, 2002, Pages 317~326
This study is to analyze the works introduced in the collections of Paco Rabanne in an aim to identify formative aesthetic and design concepts. As the data to study the creative concepts and expressions of the designer, fashion photographs were gathered in a focus on collections. Paco Rabanne's fashion philosophy is to shine women who has passion, energy and self-confidence, with glittering materials. For he had a career of fashion accessary designer and architect, he tried to make his work constructively with non-sewing technology. So, his works could be divided three parts of materials which he has made creative fashion with. They are metallic, non-metallic and fabric. In metallic, design concepts are cosmos, egypt, the middle ages, modern technology. And from these the formative aesthetic were mainly characterized by the futurism, cubism and eroticism. In non-metallic, building, purism of primitiveness, nature. And from these the formative aesthetic were mainly characterized by surrealism, primitivism, romantism. In fabric, design concepts are natural phenomena, optical illusion. And from these the formative aesthetic were mainly characterized by cubism, optical art.
The External Deconstruction Trend Expressed in the Works of Jean Paul Gaultier
Choi, Young-Ok ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 4, issue 4, 2002, Pages 327~338
The analysis and examination of this study are focussed on the external deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier. The external deconstruction is a way of expression faithful to the literal meaning of 'deconstruction' and is the applied case of exposure, destruction, poverty, and decomposition as they are. The method and scope of this study are from 1980's to present, and the followings are the results of this examination focussed on the various literature of philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and foreign fashion journals. The exposure phenomena through the deconstruction expressed repeatedly in the works of Gaultier deconstructed the fixed idea of 'the inner wear should be worn inside the outer wear' and at the same time denied the dichotomical interpretation of the exposure and suppression, the traditional beauty and decadent beauty, the chastity and unchastity, the asceticism and sexuality, and obscured the notion of the inner wear and outer wear. The destructive deconstruction expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier introduced the elements such as hippy, punk, and kitsch, slashed before making dresses, crumpled unseemly like wastepaper, or made dresses with textures like paper scraps, and through destroying textures, yielded shock effects and tension. Poverty, through borrowing from the outwardly poor-looking elements of design, i.e. the patch work, decolor, dye, fading, fringing, incompletion, and handmadeness, liberated dresses and their ornaments from the outside. The traditional dresses were dresses having certain forms with formative beauty, but Gaultier disassembled dresses and raised questions about the logic of dresses themselves.
Aesthetic Characteristics of Yohji Yamamoto's Works -Focused on Aesthetic Characteristics of Traditional Costume-
Yaung, Hyeon-Ju ; Cho, Youn-Joo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 4, issue 4, 2002, Pages 339~346
This study analyzed the works, introduced in the collections of Yohji Yamamoto in an aim to identify traditional aesthetic and design concepts. As the data to study the concept and expression of the designer, fashion photographs were gathered in a focus on collections since 1990's. The traditional aesthetic expressed in the works of Yohji Yamamoto were characterized by the external aesthetics and the internal aesthetics. The traditional aesthetic of external aesthetics were classified into the plasticity and the wearing, and those of internal aesthetics were divided into the moderation, expertness and aesthetic exclusion. The plasticity was extracted into line, form and color. The wearing was presented artist of purpose through the mutual text. The moderation was based on the moral goodness and the aesthetical beauty. The expertness represented the fitting method and mutual reaction of color. through the natural beauty. The aesthetic exclusion was expressed through simplicity, loftiness, and unbalance.
Study of Silk Weaving Industry and Design in Modern France
Lee, Kyung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 4, issue 4, 2002, Pages 347~357
In 1536, two Piedmontese merchants set up workshops in Lyons, and Henri IV encourged further development later in the 16th century. The development of Lyons as a centre of the silk weaving industry was helped by the perfection of drawloom weaving technique there in 1605 by Claude Dangon. In the 17th century, the French silk industry could finally compete with the dominance of the Italian silk trade. The French silk industry was promoted in the mid-17th century under Louis XIV's minister Colbert. In 1667, he published an ordinance creating La Grande Fabrique, a corporation for craftsmen within the silk industry, and Lyons became the undisputed French silk capital. Under Louis X IV, France was becoming the dominant force in Europe in matters of fashion and style. The major innovation of weaving was the Jacquard head attachment, which provided a mechanical means of raising warp threads by a series of punched cards. The are nouveau style did not have much impact on French silk design at the end of the century. Silk manufacturers began to collaborate with haute-couture designers such as the House of Worth. This collaboration with the burgeoning Paris haute-couture industry continued into the 20th century and safeguarded the future production of silk textiles in France.
A Study on Female's Ideal Beauty Based on Word Analysis
Lee, Kwan-Yi ; Lee, Kyoung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 4, issue 4, 2002, Pages 358~368
The purpose of this study was to examine and fully understand the transformation of female's ideal beauty based on word analysis. In order to research the understanding of female's ideal beauty, a random research was done on 438 women, ranging from the ages 10's through 60's. From the resulting poll, a frequency analysis was performed to further analyse the meaning of ideal beauty to each sector of the age group. To the teenage's beauty awareness was defined by the word "individuality", the 20's was "confident", the 30's was "elegant", the 40's was "earnestness", the 50's was "comfortable" and the 60's was "healthy". The research proved that the younger the age group, the more exterior beauty was considered, as opposed to the older generation who found inner beauty to be of most importance.
A Study on the Personal Color Selection Factors and the Satisfaction - Centered on the Colors for Hair and Make-up -
Han, Myung-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 4, issue 4, 2002, Pages 369~375
The present study attempts to examine the degree of recognition of the Personal Colors by the age of the woman, and to analyze the influence of the recognition on the factors for choosing specific colors for hair coloring and facial make-up and the consequent satisfaction. The data will be used as a basic material for research and marketing in the field of color consulting in the beauty industry. Collected data were statistically processed using the SPSS WIN program. Depending on the nature of the contents to be analyzed, either the percentage calculation or the Chi-square analysis or the ANOVA was carried out. The findings of the study are as follows; The overall recognition of the Personal Colors was generally low in terms of the knowledge, information and experiences. While the degree of recognition was the highest in teenagers, the necessity of diagnosing the Personal Colors was most deeply perceived by the women in their 30s. One of the factors for choosing a specific color for hair coloring was their favorite color for the teenagers, and the Personal Color or the advice of the professional for the women in their 30s. Meanwhile, the highest factor for those in their 20s was the colors in vogue. For the facial color make-up as well, this sensitivity to popular colors was also highest in the twenty-something women. The color choice in consideration of favorite colors and the Personal Colors was the most prominent in the teenagers. The tendency of utilizing the advice of sales people or the professionals was the highest in the women in their 30s. In the survey of satisfaction with the chosen colors for hair coloring and make-up, it was found that satisfaction was the highest in the cases of choosing the Personal Colors in all the age groups, while it was the lowest for the choice of popular colors.
Multiple Body-Image and Clothing-Benefit Sought according to Body-Cathexis
Choo, Tae-Gue ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 4, issue 4, 2002, Pages 376~382
The purpose of this study was to investigate multiple body-image and clothing-benefit sought according to body-cathexis. The questionnaire was administered to 458 female college students in Daegu and Kyungpook. The results were obtained as follows. Most respondents were dissatisfied with their body, especially with lower parts and weight. Among three factors of multiple body-image, degree of appearance-conscious was high, but degree of weight control and physical attractiveness were evaluated low. According to body-cathexis, differences were found in degree of weight control and physical attractiveness between groups. Respondents sought practical use of one's clothing most and comfort, figure flaws compensation, in turn. According to body-cathexis, differences were found in 4 factors of clothing-benefit sought, those were figure flaws compensation, sex appeal, individuality, practical use between groups. Between the factors of multiple body-image and the factors of clothing-benefit sought, positive or negative correlations were found, so it indicated that one's body-image was effected on clothing-benefit sought.
A Comparison of Wearing Evaluation Method for Bodice Pattern - Focusing on Obese Boys of School Year -
Jo, Youn-Joo ; Lee, Jeong-Ran ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 4, issue 4, 2002, Pages 383~393
The purpose of this study was to evaluate wearing evaluation method in order to propose well fitted bodice pattern. For this study, the subjects were drawn from obese boys at the ages 9 to 11. Wearing evaluation had use of 3 bodice type and 3 evaluative method. The appearance evaluation was to evaluate subjects by professional group. The functional evaluation was to valued subjects by self-evaluation. The quantitative evaluation was to estimate subjects through Electomyograph. Wearing evaluation was done through questionnaire of 32 item in objectivity, 36 item in subjectivity, and 36 item in quantity. The data were analyzed by using ANOVA. From wearing evaluation, appearance and functional evaluation had significant most of them but quantitative evaluation had not significant. It was known that the human sense was more sensitive the quantitative mechanism. And its obtained by both functional evaluation and quantitative evaluation, respectively was found to be significantly correlated, Independent relation was observed in the results from both appearance evaluation and functional evaluation as well as from both functional evaluation and quantitative evaluation. Therefore, we propose that it is proper to evaluate the propriety of bodice pattern for obese boys of school year, mutually compromising both appearance evaluation and functional evaluation or both functional evaluation and quantitative evaluation.
Dyeing Fastness of Colouring Matter Extracted in Butterbur Leaf
Park, Young-Deuk ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 4, issue 4, 2002, Pages 394~398
The purse of this study was to invesigate the dyeing fastness on extract of bufferbur leaf princeps. The experimental items were divided into the mordant treatment, component of fabric and kind of mordants. The experimental study was done by laundering, abrasion (dry/wet), perspiration (acid/alkali), light, iron fastness test and color difference by C.C.M system. The summerized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows : In the C.C.M test on mordanting method and kind of fabric, color difference of silk was three times higher than cotton. The silk fabric was the highest in simultaneous mordant treatment but cotton fabric was the highest in none mordant. In color difference analysis on 6 mordants, that of silk and cotton was significantly improved when mordants was treatmented. Especially color difference of Fe and Cu mordanting treatment was higher than Cr, Sn, Al and none. In dyeing fastness on mordants laundering, perspiration, abrasion and iron fastness showed 4-5 grade but light-fastness showed 1-3 grade.
The Development of Rain Melange Fabrics with Using Pulsar Interlacing Unit
Hwang, Jong-Ho ; Park, Seong-Woo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 4, issue 4, 2002, Pages 399~404
The purpose of this study was to develop the rain melange fabrics with using the pulsar interlacing unit. The properties of the pulsar interlaced yarns (PI yarn) which were textured with the several texturing conditions were analyzed and compared with the regular interlaced yarn (IT yarn) and with normally composited yarn (CP yarn). The results were as follows : The PI yarn which has the best rain random melange effect could be obtained with following texturing condition; 3 kg/
of interlacing air pressure, 1.6 mm diameter of interlacing nozzle and 500 m/min of yarn speed. When IT yarn was compared with CP yarn, IT yarn had higher denier and tenacity than those of CP yarn and had lower elongation and shrinkage than those of CP yarn.