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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 5, Issue 5 - Oct 2003
Volume 5, Issue 4 - Aug 2003
Volume 5, Issue 3 - Jun 2003
Volume 5, Issue 1 - Feb 2003
Volume 5, Issue 6 - 00 2003
Volume 5, Issue 2 - 00 2003
Selecting the target year
그린소비자 시대에 대응하는 패션산업계
Kim, Jung-Won ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 1, 2003, Pages 1~9
Kitabatake, Akira ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 1, 2003, Pages 10~16
A Study on the Method of Expressing Plasticity in the 20th Century Fashion Design - Focused on the Using Techniques of Object-
Kim, Ji-Hui ; Yu, Tae-Sun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 1, 2003, Pages 17~24
Objet, which showed up with the art of 20C, is now an important element giving a creative idea to fashion designers in modern times. The purpose of the study is to review how the objet technique was paid attention and recreated in the fashion, through the analysis of works, and the formative features of each technique for fashion, in order to identify the connection of arts and fashion, and the position of fashion as art. The techniques using object appeared in the 20th century fashion are as follows: First, papier-colle, which is adding printed materials onto the surface, is such a technique that adds cut-feeling materials to impose a new texture, or arrange again the cloth-cuts to create a different clothing from the existing one, which went to the extension of materials in the fashion. Second, collage of daily materials expresses directly and emotionally through direct presentation of the objets. Especially, collage of patch-work is reproduced into a new fabric depending on the objet used, giving a standing over the form. Third, ready-made which presents the material meaning only of the objet expands the range of objets which could be used in the fashion by introducing the daily materials having a meaning itself as a fashion. Forth, an attempt to approach to the objets of popular image by designed techniques come out in modern fashion as a graffiti look or a typography look, making the clothing itself an objet to transmit a message directly to the masses. Introduction of various objets and development of expression technique brought out the diversification of materials, and enrichment and extension of expression sphere, which resultingly spreaded the freedom of expression and progressed into the art sphere, making a direct motif to solidify its standing as a formative art.
A study of hairstyles in Rococo
Hwang, Yun-Jung ; Jo, Ki-Yeu ; Jung, Yun-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 1, 2003, Pages 25~33
Rococo, which is represented as immoderate pleasure and luxurious aristocratism, had required to be liberal and unconventional in art and life, and the hairstyles were also much more fantastic, huge, and splendid than ever. Women's hairstyles in the early 18th century were the relatively simple style of Pompadour style that didn't inflate hairs and combed them backward. Then, as changes in haristyles began to appear in around 1760, the styles became gradually higher and huger, and very queer styles also appeared. In the 1780s, they ornamented these hairdos by using various things. This can be considered as women's behaviors that showed off their status and wealth instead of their husbands. Although men's hairstyles were not as huge and decorative as women's, wigs were worn frequently. Wigs became smaller and simpler than those in 17C, and while wearing them, they made wigs whitened by spraying hair-powders enough not to recognize their ages. Several names such as Pig tail, Ramilleis, Bag wig, Brigadiere, and so on existed, according to the way to tie the wigs. Somewhat exaggerated men's hairstyles were shown by Macaronis in 1780s. However, this can be regarded to reflect the situation of the age.
A Study on Miao Women's Hair Styles, and Hair Ornaments of Guizbou Province in China
Kim, Young-Sin ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 1, 2003, Pages 34~42
Hair styles vary greatly and are an integral part of the Miao women's costume, often denoting marital status. The hair style was expressed in various styles by using Kokye. Chukye and Byunbal. Hair is swept in to buns and knots of varying size or arranged in huge structures supported with extra hair or wooden pieces. The hair ornament was expressed in various styles turban and hat. Some groups use a turban as an integral part of the style that is wrapped round the head in a specific way. Silver ornaments occupy an important position in the bright and colorful attire and personal adorment of Miao women's in Guizhou. Silver horns, silver crowns, silver hats are peculiar to Miao women's hair style. They are also indispensable hair ornaments of Miao women's. festive dress in Guizhou.
The Characteristics of Blue Color on Korean and Japanese Traditional Costume
Lee, Kyung-Hee ; Lee, Eun-Joo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 1, 2003, Pages 43~52
The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristics of traditional blue color between Korean and Japanese traditional costumes. Korea and Japan as the neighboring country of geographically and historically, but showed obvious difference in traditional color. In this study we investigated the blue color characteristics that appear on Korean and Japanese traditional costumes. We researched the characteristics of blue color on color names and color tones through the old Korean and Japanese literatures, costume remains and restoration dyeing fabrics. This study researched the Chosun Period in Korea and Edo Period in Japan. The results of this study Were as following; Many differentiation colors appeared in Chosun and Edo period than former ages. These differentiation colors were made giving differences gradually in basic color, hue, value and chroma. The blue color names appeared 40 names in Chosun Period and 57 names in Edo Period. In these blue color names of Chosun and Edo Period, the common color name was not more 'indigo'. The most highly appearanced blue color hues of costume remains in Chosun and restoration dyeing fabrics in Edo Period were blue and purplish blue. The most highly appearanced blue color tones were dull and moderate. By result of preceding descriptions, the characteristics of national color were not come from difference of dye and dyeing method, could know that come from difference of society and cultural environment.
Preparation and Physical Properties of Stretch Fabrics Using with Poly(trimethylene terephthalate) Fiber
Choi, Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 1, 2003, Pages 53~58
The stretch fabrics were made by the use of PTT[Poly(trimethylene terephthalate)] fibers and changes in their physical properties were analysed. Tenacity and elongation of D-1(PTT DTY) yarn were 3.32 g/d and 50.4%, respectively, while these of D-2(PTT+CDP DTY) yarn were 2.46 g/d and 32.1%, respectively. The tenacity of PTT-1 and PET-1 fabrics was similar, but the elongation of PTT-1 and PET-1 fabrics was 75% and 44%, respectively. Thus, the elongation of PTT-1 fabric was two times higher than those of PET-1 fabric. In addition, the elastic recovery at 20% elongation of PTT-1, PTT-2 and PET-1 fabric was 85.0%, 80.5% and 60.0%, respectively, indicating that so PTT-1 fabric showed better elastic recovery. The light, wash, and abrasion fastness of PTT-1 and PTT-2 fabrics were above Grade 3, Grade 4-5, and Grade 4-5, respectively. Therefore, there was little effect of substance on the fastness.
Textile Design of Tie Technique with Natural Dyeing
Jung, Jin-Soun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 1, 2003, Pages 59~63
This study aims at developing of textile design expressed not only Korean natural image but also modern sensibility using fabrics dyed by tie dyeing with various natural dyes. And it attempts to practicality of high value-added goods revived traditional beauty. With the aqueous extract of various natural dyes, i.e., indigo, amur cock tree, onion's peel, citrus peel, mugwort, gromwell, sappan wood silk fabrics dyed by tie dyeing. Also various color changes were examined by mordants, i.e., aluminium sulfate, cupric acetate mono hydrate, ferrous chloride. With these fabrics, I made works using the techniques of applique, mola, fabric's connection and weaving. I think the developed textile design gave expression to natural image of Korean nation.
A Study on the Antibacterial Activity of Chitosan on the MRSA by the Shake Flask Method and Modified Shake Flask Method
Choi, Jeong-Im ; Jeon, Dong-Won ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 1, 2003, Pages 64~70
Water-insoluble chitosan with molecular weight of 2,000,000, 580,000, 80,000, and 40,000 and more than 90% of degree of deacetylation were prepared to test antibacterial activity of chitosan against a pathogenic bacteria, methicillin resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA). As experimental method, the Shake Flask Method (SFM) and Modified Shake Flask Method (MSFM) were applicated. The anti-microbial activity of chitosan/acetic acid aqueous solution is consistent irrespective of Mw of chitosan. MIC value of SFM measurement was 0.2 ppm, and MIC value of modified SFM measurement was 25 ppm. But MIC value of chitosan/acetic add solution and chitosan treated cotton filter paper was equally 5 ppm. The antibacterial activities of chitosan were different in different test measurements employed. The antibacterial activities of chitosan/acetic acid solution and chitosan treated cotton filter paper were also different. Therefore, it needs to be pointed out that the test measurements of anti-microbial activity have some problems.
A Study on the Antimicrobial Activity of Chitosan on the MRSA by Tube Dilution Technique and Agar Plate Smear Method
Choi, Jeong-Im ; Jeon, Dong-Won ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 1, 2003, Pages 71~76
Three different types of chitosan were prepared from red crab shells to study anti-microbial activity of chitosan on pathogenic bacteria, MRSA(Methicillin-resistant. Staphylococcus aureus), Water-insoluble chitosan, whose degree of deacetylation is kept over 90% and molecular weights are 20,000, 500,000, 150,000, 80,000, and 40,000, respectively. Water-soluble chitosan, whose degree of deacetylation is about 48% and molecular weights are 200,000 and 80,000. Water-soluble chitosan, whose degree of deacetylation is 82% and molecular weight is 3,900. The anti-microbial activities of three types of chitosan were investigated by Tube Dilution Technique(TDT) and Agar Plate Smear Method(APSM). And the following conclusions are made ; Chitosan having 5 different types of M.W chitosan (over 90% deacetylation) showed similar anti-microbial activities at over 0.05% concentration. Especially, chitosan having M.W 40,000 150,000 showed the excellent anti-microbial activity. The anti-microbial activity of chitosan was enhanced when the chitosan/acetic add solution was aged for 7days. The anti-microbial activity of chitosan was only shown at chitosan/acetic acid solution. The anti-microbial activity was not detected in chitosan solution dissolved in neutral pH water. Therefore, it can be concluded that the anti-microbial activity was due to NH3+ cationic ion of chitosan in acidic aqueous solution.
Effect of Multi-functional Fabric on EEG and Growth Hormone Level during Sleep
Lee, Myeong-Soo ; Lee, Jin-Hee ; Koh, Kyung-Chan ; Moon, Sun-Rock ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 1, 2003, Pages 77~81
The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of multi-functional fabric on EEG and growth hormone (GH) during sleep and quality of sleep with the 9 young female athletes. The subjects participated in separated experimental procedure; sleeping in multi-functional fabric wear (experimental group) and cotton wear (control group) for 450min. During the night (22:00-05:30), we recorded the changes of nocturnal polysomnographic sleep recording and GH were measured every 60min. The results show that there are significant differences in percentage of stage 1, 2 and slow wave sleep (SWS) between two groups(S1, p<.05; S2, SWS, p<.01). The SWS percentage of experimental group is 1.89 times higher than control group. The changes of GH secretion varied depending on two experimental procedures. The peak of GH secretion in experimental group is more than controls by 2.4time (p<.001). The quality of sleep in experimetal group is significantly higher than control (p<.01). These results suggest muti-functional fabric wear is effective in inducing the deep sleep and increasing GH and quality of sleep.
A Study on the Combination Dyeing of Cationized Cotton Fabrics with Gardenia and Sappan Wood
Sung, Woo-Kyung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 1, 2003, Pages 82~88
This study was carried out to investigate combination dyeing of the cationized cotton with natural colorants extracted from Gardenia and Sappan wood extract using methanol. To improve dyeing properties of cotton with natural dye, cotton fabric was preheated with cationizing agent containing chlorohydrine group in aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide. On the whole the various medium colors were developed by repeat dyeing with different colorants after dyeing with one colorant in case of natural dyeing, In this study, however in order to obtain various colors on cationized cotton fabrics with natural dyes, pre-mordanting and combination dyeing were carried out. The various colors were obtained according to various metal compounds for pre-mordants and various mixing portion of Gardenia and Sappan wood. Metal compounds containing alum, copper and iron were used for pre-mordants.