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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 5, Issue 5 - Oct 2003
Volume 5, Issue 4 - Aug 2003
Volume 5, Issue 3 - Jun 2003
Volume 5, Issue 1 - Feb 2003
Volume 5, Issue 6 - 00 2003
Volume 5, Issue 2 - 00 2003
Selecting the target year
섬유·패션산업이 나아가야 할 방향 - 한국·일본의 구조비교를 통한 제언 -
Lee, Dong-Geun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 5, 2003, Pages 433~437
의생활과 생리인류학 - 짧은 다리는 추위에 강하다 -
Yasukouchi, Akira ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 5, 2003, Pages 438~442
A Study on Uniform Design Applied Orientalism
Jin, Kyung-Ok ; Lee, Min-Jung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 5, 2003, Pages 443~452
People have been getting interested in the Orientalism and it has come up in various areas due to scientific progress. I designed uniforms, which was simple and western, to show its symbolic meanings in the Orientalism. And I have been trying to generalize uniforms with originality and beauty. I have studied the process of the Orientalism and its changes and transitions, concepts and origins in history. And I applied the styles of Korean, Japanese and Chineses costume on it. I also referred to characters of uniforms, which already had images of Korea, Japan and China. Firstly, Korean styles have a contrast in colors by application of Taegeuk. And they gave lines with dark colors in black one-piece dress. This makes people who are wearing looking slimmer. White ramie top looks fresh and Korean traditional tie called Maedeup is set up for button. Secondly, Japanese styles were mainly Kimono style, one piece. They changed into two pieces designed to be active. So, it has emphasized the image of Kimono with Obi at the waist. Thirdly, Chinese styles basically are Chipao style, which has a Chinese collar and a long skirt, which has opening. But they gradually changed into short skirts and more open in the chest. For one of them, they gave lines in the side of chest, sleeves and skirt to be more natural. The costumes have kept their positions as a part of mass society that grows and changes with speed. And oriental uniforms are not just uniforms any longer only for work. It is quite symbolic like a 'second face' as it represents images for their countries and enterprises.
A Study on the Pluralism Expressed in Modern Fashion
Choi, Young-Ok ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 5, 2003, Pages 453~464
This study is to analyze that the pluralism is the main aspect of the modem fashion which examines the definition and the character of the pluralism. This will also consider the pluralism that appeared on the modern fashion which is based on them. The main point of pluralism is that the world is necessarily aware of plural and difference. Also many values which is focused on the previous generation, for instance disorganize of westernism, androcentrictrism, christianism and powerful nationalism, what is called unfamiliar, heterogeneous, the others and the circumference things. As these were rehabilitated, morality, ethics, religion or politics were all became possible to choose for one's taste. The pluralism expressed in modern fashion can be divided as collapse of genre, grafting the lower and higher orders cultivation, variety way of approaching in time, internationalism. The result for the consideration is that the pluralism has candid attitude for everything so that in the modern fashion is importing variety range of artistic definition. Namely, it is not only containing previous pure art, elegance art and element of artistic sublime beauty, but also has aesthetics of ugliness, deconstructive art and anti-fashion so that the definition of the art is getting vagueness and diverse.
A Study on Pattern of Concert Dress Preference Design
Park, Sung-Yul ; Hong, Jung-Min ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 5, 2003, Pages 465~469
The present study revealed; that (1) The students majoring in a piano course were the preference type of the performance dress - best line was designed of upper form chest. It was 1.5cm shorter than armhole line, the princess line was preferred Top one piece without sleeves which was designed with slim by bottom line through west dart form best line. The expression method was showing embroidery and bidding, colors were in order to white, ivory, black and blue style. The material was in order to silk with glorious shinning, silk satin and race style. (2) The students majoring in a vocal music were the preference type of the performance dress - the princess line was designed shorter, the west line of back and forth was preferred the one piece of bulk style divided with three partitions. Neck line was 5cm shorter than the middle of back, 9cm shorter than the side neck position, 9cm shorter than the middle of forth, sweet heart neck line with circular sleeve designed 7cm shorter than the side neck position. Colors were in order to ivory, red and yellow style. The material was in order to silk with glorious shinning silk satin and race style.
Borderless Phenomenon in Modern Men's Fashion
Kim, Byong-Ok ; Lee, Sang-Rye ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 5, 2003, Pages 470~480
This study looks upon the borderless phenomenon of genres and at the disintegration of boundaries in fashion, the current 'borderless trend', and analyze modern men's fashion having borderless phenomenon under social changes and disclose current men's fashion. The borderless phenomenon of men's fashion declines traditional image of gender and expresses modern men's images strongly in accordance with social changes: Thus, in modern days, men's images have changed from muscular men having show-off and superiority to women-like men having pearly skin and slender figure. Men's fashion also looked for feminization to let men like make-up, beauty salon, cosmetic surgery and women-like hair style, etc. Men have been also given women's sexy and sensual beauty to put on innerwear as an outerwearization. The Influx and mixing of mutually different cultures is expressed in Hippie, Ethnic, Oriental trends. Mutually opposing country's factors mix so that a new culture is established. Also, the sharing of fashions amongst younger and older generation has occurred for reasons that are similar to the reasons above.
Studies on the Costume of Gamrotenghwa in Choson Dynasty
Yang, Suk-Hyang ; Lee, Tae-Ho ; Lee, Kyeung-Hwa ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 5, 2003, Pages 481~494
The Gamrotenghwa of the Choson Dynasty is a unique genre of buddhist painting in that the destiny of the dead souls and the guidance to nirvana are expressed in reality. More than 50 of the Gamrotenghwa are known to be present, and the lower part of the paintings includes a wide assortment of folk customary scenes reflecting the social life style of the time when the painting was drawn, such as difficulties in life. public life, punishment and war. Changes in the costume of the people shown on the customary scenes of the Gamrotenghwa according to the time based changes in painting style were investigated in this study. The results are summarized in three points. First, the costumes of bureaucrats showed a tendency of preservation without any major changes in the painting. On the other hand, costumes of public and entertainer in the scenes were very close to those worn by the people at that time. The realistic description of public life in the painting may establish the value of the Gamrotenghwa as the historical documents. Second, the costume of the people in the painting showed a dual structure as the social positions; bureaucrats wore various official hats, large coats and belts to expose their social prestige. while the general public wore simple and convenient clothing which is divided into shirt and pants. The dual structure of the costume in the painting is in well accordance with that of the later period of Choson dynasty, suggesting that the customary scenes in the painting represent the social life style of the period. Finally, the customary scenes in the Gamrotenghwa are very variegated. which shows a variety of beauty of wearing even though they look coarse in a sense. The diversity of wearing beauty in the picture may contribute to the recreation of the beauty of shape in the new design of Hanbok.
Sensation Seeking Tendency and Shopping Orientation affect on Preferred Fashion Style of Female College Students
Park, Hyun-Jeong ; Na, Young-Joo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 5, 2003, Pages 495~502
This study aims to investigate the relationships among sensation seeking tendency and shopping orientation and the preferences of fashion styles of female college students. The sensation seeking was found related with shopping orientation, and style preference. 'Seeking change' tendency and 'seeking unusual sensation' are related to 'hedonic shopping orientation', while 'seeking adventure/satisfying curiosity' is related to 'impulsive shopping orientation'. As 'seeking adventure/satisfying curiosity' increased, the preference of 'vivid character style' increased. The cross-effect of seeking sensation and shopping orientation affected style preference. Allowance and residential location affected the seeking sensation, shopping orientation and preference styles, while monthly spending on clothing and residential type affected shopping orientation only. The students with large allowance showed high 'seeking adventure/satisfying curiosity', high 'brand loyalty and impulsive' shopping orientation, and high preference in 'accessory and conspicuous style'. The students residing in Inchon showed high 'seeking unusual sensation', and 'practical shopping orientation', and low 'accessory and conspicuous style' than Seoul students.
Segments of Female Apparel Market based on Difference Real-self Image and Ideal-self Image
Cho, Youn-Joo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 5, 2003, Pages 503~510
The purpose this study is to segments apparel market based on difference real-self image and ideal-self image. The objects of the study were to prepare for the establishment of marketing strategy and alternative plan intended to users which are needed in subdivided market, after analyzing according to what the subdivided market is divided into due to the difference real-self image and idea-self image and what difference do they show as a demographic special quality or as a general active special quality in each subdivided market. Factor analysis was performed to determine the leading difference real-self image and ideal-self image, and cluster analysis was employed to identify groups of respondents based on the delineated five image difference factors. Based on the finding, three distinct groups were formed: ideal-self image seeker group, moderators group, real-self image seeker group. And logistic regression was used to assess the relative importance that demographic characteristics play in determining the segmentation. The results of this study show statistically significant differences among the three groups in terms of demographic. Marketing and management implications for effectively targeting the segments are discussed.
A Study on the Characteristics of Japanese Traditional Patterns
Kim, Se-Na ; Oh, Kyung-Wha ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 5, 2003, Pages 511~519
The traditional culture has been developed for a long time with an unique property according to folk character, custom and environment within an area. Especially in 1906, when the westerners were interested in oriental cultures more and more, Paul Poiret presented Japanese traditional dress of napping sleeve coats and harem pants, henceforth japanese fashion theme began to rise. The Japanese style rose as an important fashion item of the modern fashion, with various fashion themes such as orientalism, ethnic, folklore, ecology, etc., needless to say of activities of Japanese designers. The revealed patterns on Japanese dress and it's ornament plays a role of expressive decoration as well as stand for the nation, the ideology of the age and aesthetic consciousness. For this reason, it is necessary to study Japanese traditional patterns expressed in modern fashion systematically. Therefore, in this research, the demonstrated Japanese traditional patterns on the modern fashion were divided into natural, artificial and complex design and were looked out the characteristic, furthermore it was studied in regard that Japanese patterns were how to apply in modern fashion. It was concluded that the characteristics of the Japanese traditional patterns presented in the modern fashion were as follows: first, creation of environmental friendly design using plenty of natural materials; second, expression of paint-like impression and beauty of margins by simplifying of patterns; third, expression of amusing design by using bright colors and print; finally, various patterns were spreaded out complicated on dress. The characteristics of Japanese traditional patterns in the above were expressed in the modern fashion.
Depolymerization of Chitosan Using H
and Decrease in Molecular Weight upon Storage Time
Kim, Hee-Jung ; Jeon, Dong-Won ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 5, 2003, Pages 520~528
Chitosan was depolymerized by oxidizing agent, hydrogen peroxide (
) and general properties of resulting low molecular weight chitosan(LMWC) were studied. Effect of amount of
, ratio of
/chitosan, and reaction temperature were investigated in preparing LMWC. In addition, the reduction of molecular weight of prepared LMWC were measured after a certain time passage. Pre-swelling treatment of starting chitosan affected uniform and mild reaction of depolymerization and increased the solubility of resulting LMWC. Prepared LMWC (Mw 100,000) showed a decrease in Mw by 25-35%. Prepared LMWC(Mw 60,000-70,000) showed a decrease in Mw by 10-15% after 7 months. Therefore, this depolymerizing process can be concluded desirable in terms of stability. In addition, yellowing of pre-swelling treated chitosan upon time passage was insignificant compared with that of untreated chitosan. Therefore, pre-swelling treatment of chitosan before depolymerization would be beneficial in terms of stability of physical state.
A Study on Decrease in Degree of Deacetylation of Low Molecular Weight Chitosan Prepared by H
and Change of Whiteness upon Time
Kim, Hee-Jung ; Jeon, Dong-Won ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 5, 2003, Pages 529~538
Chitosan should be satisfied a certain Mw range for the final application, Low molecular weight chitosan(LMWC) can be acquired by depolymerizing high molecular weight starting chitosan. Using
in depolymerizing chitosan is very effective and reproducible in controlling Mw of resulting LMWC. However,
can break glycoside linkage of chitosan and oxidize some
groups in chitosan. It has been reported that decrease in DA(degree of deacetylation) of LMWC prepared by
. However, any quantitative data of decrease in DA has not been reported yet. In this study, DA of initial chitosan and DA of
treated chitosan were measured and the change in DA of chitosan upon
treatment were investigated. Change in DA was very different upon
treatment condition. LMWC also showed DA change upon time passage. Pre-swelling treatment of initial chitosan and low ratio of
/chitosan prevented a decrease in DA significantly. Yellowing of LMWC was detected upon time passage, however, decrease in DA was minimal (around 1%).
A Study on Non-detergent Course of Washing Machine
Kang, In-Sook ; Jo, Seong-Jin ; Kim, Young-Soo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 5, 2003, Pages 539~544
The purpose of this study is to research source of soil which is available for non-detergent course, and to develop optimum non-detergent course of washing machine for water soluble soil. The water soluble soil such as grape juice, soy bean paste and soy sauce were easily removed from the fabric but the oil soluble soils such as sesame oil and steak sauce were insurfficiently removed in washing solution without detergent. In the absence of detergent, amount of residual soils increased linearly with increasing number of soiling and washing. To search optimum conditions of washing for non-detergent course, the effect of temperature, washing time and washing method on detergency of soil in non-detergent washing solution was examined. The optimum washing temperature and washing time for non-detergent course were about
, and 7 minutes, respectively. And in the non-detergent washing solution, midterm drain-resupply of water during washing process was good for removal of water soluble soil.
The Effect of Carriers on Dyeing Properties of PET Fiber
Choi, Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 5, issue 5, 2003, Pages 545~549
Dyeing properties such as migration of disperse dye and color fastness of 4 types of the carrier[Carrier-I(methyl napthalene). Carrier-II(chloro benzene). Carrier-III(aromatic ether) and Carrier-IV(o-phenyl phenol)] were evaluated for the study. For the results, the optimum dyeing time and concentration of the carrier was 30min at
and 2g/l, respectively. The redyeing ratio of the fabric samples treated with Carrier-II and III was higher than that treated with Carrier-I and IV, thus, if was conclude that the redyeing ratio of the samples treated with Carrier-II and III was excellent. The light fastness of the samples treated with Carrier-III and IV was higher than that of Carrier-I and II in order of 2-4 grades. However, there were little changes in terms of washing and sublimation and rubbing fastness for the samples.