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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 6, Issue 6 - Dec 2004
Volume 6, Issue 5 - Oct 2004
Volume 6, Issue 4 - Aug 2004
Volume 6, Issue 3 - Jun 2004
Volume 6, Issue 2 - Apr 2004
Volume 6, Issue 1 - Feb 2004
Selecting the target year
패션산업에서의 컬러리스트의 역할과 실용색채 활용법
Kim, Min-Kyung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 2, 2004, Pages 129~134
The Development of Textile Design and the Manufacture of Cultural Merchandise by Using Lotus Flower Patterns(I) - For Researching Lotus Pattern Materials and Examples of Cultural Merchandise -
Jung, Jin-Soun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 2, 2004, Pages 135~143
In an information-oriented and internalized society of the future, the quality and price of goods made by each country will be equalized. That eliminates competition. But the design and appearance of products is an important factor in international competition. Indeed, design symbolizes a country's culture visually, and it can show the cultural identity and originality of a nation in international society. And that will play an important part that can contribute to creating added value. It is necessary to revive our people's old lyrical stories which are far away from our memory, and we badly need design development to revive traditional cultural merchandise through visual modernization. Among various Korean cultural inheritances, lotus is often seen in tiles, porcelains and folk stories. In this study, I chose lotus as the subject material of textile design development, and my intention for this study is to reflect Korean traditional cultural value as much as I can, and to develop textile design of Korean images by adding modern scenes. For that, first I researched lotus pattern materials and examples of cultural merchandise.
A Study on the Changes of the Five-Class Mourning Costume-System in the Koryo Dynasty and the Early Years of the Chosun Dynasty
Chon, Hea-Sook ; Kwon, Lee-Soon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 2, 2004, Pages 144~152
In this study, the settlement of this etiquette book and the five-class mourning-costume system throughout two dynasties is examined and analyzed.; According to the Chosun dynasty's efforts to practice Chu-Ja-Ga-Rye(朱子家禮, Chu Hsi's Book of Family Rituals) through legal intensification and enlightenment policies, the book's teachings had a general effect on society at large. As a result, the family system and funeral rites turned Confucian from a Shaman-Buddhist mixture. As the Confucian order was strengthened to highlight the authority of the male family head, the funeral rituals were based on Chu Hsi's Book of Family Rituals. So, the 100-day funeral of Koryo turned into the 3-year funeral in the Chosun dynasty. Also, the main and father's lines were valued, while the mother's and wife's lines were neglected. Even though there was no great difference of status or place between males and females in the Koryo dynasty, the settlement of Chu-Ja-Ga-Rye brought about the drop of women's status as they gradually began to be dependent on men.
A Study on the Stage Costume of Russian Constructivism Theatre - In the Works of Meyerhold -
Woo, Joo-Hyoung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 2, 2004, Pages 153~162
Influenced by Constructivism Art, Constructivism theatre projected the future with the help of participating artists and the development of new technologies. Therefore, this thesis studied the stage costumes in the plays of Meyerhold who represented Constructivism Play and showed its characteristics. The stage costumes in Meyerhold's plays followed the rules of Constructivism Play and showed several unique characteristics, such as the Bio-mechanic as a characteristic in his plays, functionality that facilitated the movement based on Taylorism, simple shapes, and easy cutting. Constructive artists saw the stage of constructive plays as a laboratory where they can display their designs, directly portraying future life forms through stage costumes and props. Stage costumes were no more a supporting tool that had described the play. Following the new concept of stage costumes, working costumes and stage costumes came to be regarded as the same. In turn, this led to new models and special costumes such as sportswear or specialized garments. Constructivism artists foresaw the future through the plays, with their fundamental basis for stage costumes shown in the later works of ordinary costumes.
The Expression of Texture Applying the Cotton Fabrics of Woolsmok Technique - Comparison of the Works Using the Rolltechnique and the Washing Machine -
Oh, Yean-Ok ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 2, 2004, Pages 163~168
The domestic textile industry is currently making an active effort to present high value-added materials that can respond immediately to the wants and needs of consumers sensitive to the of originality of design and emotionally appealing fashion materials. This paper attempted to present the creative development of materials in the contemporary clothing culture in which consumers' needs are individualized and differentiated and the cycle of life in fashion materials is getting shorter. To be specific, the paper presented the texture of peculiar expression to diverse cotton materials using the Woolsmok technique in the processing of felt. The chosen Merino wool was felted to 8 kinds of cotton with different density and structure. The touch, texture, visibility and complex susceptibilities of new materials were presented as different materials of cotton and wool were transformed into one material. In felting cotton fiber through wool, the transformation of diverse textures was presented and compared in the method using the washing machine in an attempt to enhance the efficiency of the traditional craft technique and work. This study proposed the possibility of placing the new material made up of cotton and wool beyond the range of functionality of each simple material, activating it as the peculiar material and expanding it to the range of its use as fashion material in the clothing industry. It is expected that this material will become competitive material at home and abroad by being activated as the clothing material of artistry, workability and marketability that can satisfy the tastes of consumers who call for high quality and diversification.
The Type and Characteristics of the Clouds-Shaped Pattern
Jang, Hyun-Joo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 2, 2004, Pages 169~176
The clouds-shaped pattern is originated from Taoism, Buddhism, and Confucianism. It stands for good-luck, longevity and productivity. It has been used on its own or with other patterns since the ancient times. It also has various forms. It particularly was used more frequently than any other patterns as a typical good-luck pattern, representing auspiciousness, divine authority, and so on in Chosun dynasty. The pattern, according to its component parts, is classified as individual type and compound type, which is mixed with other patterns such as treasure pattern, plant pattern, letter pattern, or animal pattern. For both individual type and compound type, swastika-shaped cloud pattern was mostly used. For compound type, the pattern compounded of treasure pattern was extraordinarily used a lot. In terms of the arrangement, the most common arrangement methods were brick-shaped arrangement and dense type arrangement, the arrangement method that spreads the patterns all over the surface. Among the fabrics with clouds-shaped pattern, satin damask fabrics had the majority. Clouds-shaped pattern was used a lot in men's Po(coat), such as Dahnryoung, Jiknyoung, Chollik, etc. rather than in women's clothes. It was a typical pattern used in Dahnryoung, an official uniform that represented people in the highest class in Chosun dynasty. The divine power symbol of this pattern indicated the authority and dignity that the upper class people could have.
An Exploratory Study for Problem Customers - Service Employees' Perspectives-
Park, Kyung-Ae ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 2, 2004, Pages 177~183
This study was interested in dissatisfaction in the service encounter from the service employee's viewpoint by exploring employee dissatisfaction and the problem customers as the causes. The study explored the incidents leading to dissatisfactory service encounters from the service employee's viewpoint, the causes of the dissatisfactory incidents, and the attitudinal, verbal and behavioral expressions of the customers involved in the incidents. Employees of the beauty service business were individually interviewed, and 204 incidents were analyzed. The incidents were categorized to identify the events and related behaviors of customers that caused employee dissatisfaction. Three major groups were classified: the way dissatisfied customers complain; customers' misbehaviors; and customers' no harmful behaviors. Further the major groups were classified into 8 categories. Based on the findings the study provided implications for employee and customer management.
The Relationship between Consumers' Life Style and Purchasing Frequency among the Purchasing Behaviors in Internet Shopping Mall
Kim, Si-Wuel ; Park, Bae-Jin ; Park, Hea-Ryung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 2, 2004, Pages 184~194
The purpose of this study was to understand the relationship between life style that a consumer is pursuing and purchasing frequency among the purchasing behaviors in internet shopping mall. As a result, the factors of life style with respect to purchasing attitude of the consumer were categorized into 'price advising type', 'price-quality identifying recognition type', 'brand-oriented type', 'shopping time-effort non-investment type', and 'price-quality comparing type'. It showed that there was a close relationship between the life style and the purchasing frequency in internet shopping mall and that there was a significant influence between the life style and the purchasing frequency. The result of this study indicated that the relationship between the life style and purchasing frequency in internet shopping mall was actualized by measuring the purchasing inclination of the consumer under various situations of psychologically descriptive characteristics and desire and simulation. Therefore, this fact suggests that it is very important to measure the accurate purchasing attitude of its consumer when setting up the marketing strategy of internet shopping mall.
A Study on the Merchandising through Analysis of Change in Consumer Behavior - For Researching the Young Casual Brand ON ＆ ON -
Lee, Ho-Jeong ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 2, 2004, Pages 195~204
As Korea fully entered the fashion industry in the early 1980s, the casual lifestyle trend has led the casual trend of fashion, and segmentation and specialization of the casual wear market began from the early 1990s. As of 2003, which is twelfth year after On & On's launch in 1992, this brand has succeeded in advancing into the Chinese market and has also arisen as a successful brand in the domestic market. The present research was carried out by consulting on the proposal of the marketing strategies for On & On. Firstly, in 1994 the marketing research for the consumers visiting the shop was carried out. A second investigation was conducted on the basis of the first analysis in 2003, ten after the first investigation. This research was performed to propose the future marketing strategies for On & On through an analysis of the changes of On & On consumer's purchase. This research established marketing strategies for the young casual brand.
A Study of Differences on Recognition for the Sales Persons' Service Provided between Apparel Salespeople and Customers
Kim, Mun-Young ; Park, Kwang-Hee ; Ha, Yeong-Seok ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 2, 2004, Pages 205~212
The purposes of this study was to exploit the differences on recognition for the service provided between salespeople and customers who have purchased fashion apparels and garments at the department stores, and to suggest the educational direction of salespeople in order to enhance competitiveness and to increase customers' satisfaction. Data were obtained from 297 apparel salespeople working at 6 department stores and 285 customers of department stores in Daegu. Statistics used for data analysis were frequency, mean, t-test, ANOVA, and regression analyses. The important factors which affected the purchase of fashion products, in order of importance, were information ability, credibility and service quality of salespeople. But the service quality recognized by customers was lower than that by salespeople. It can be said the salespeople have to make every effort that customers feel comfortable and certain for the service provided. There were significant difference on the service provided by salespeople, as well as service quality recognized by customers in accordance with gender, marital status, age, level of education, and annual fashion apparel expenses.
Development of functional Pants design for the Wheelchair Users
Kim, Kyung-Im ; Lee, Jeong-Ran ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 2, 2004, Pages 213~220
This study shows the result of the survey conducted for male adults who had to use wheelchairs. The objectives of this study are to develop and improve the clothes for the disabled people and to make those garments put into practice. For this purpose, the survey was conducted at first so as to understand the situation of the disabled peoples wearing clothes and the garment demands. This survey is to suggest the suited form of the pants they want. The result of the study is as follows. 1) The average age of the subjects was 38.4 years old. They have used wheelchairs for 12 years on the average. Most subjects two limbs were paralyzed because of the acquired spinal paralysis. 60 percent of them were wearing the urine bags all the time. The average size of the pants they purchased was 39 inches, which means that their waist and abdominal circumstance were very big. 2) Regarding the situation of wearing habits, although the subjects usually purchased ready-to-wear, most of them are very dissatisfied with them. Especially, they considered the size as their main dissatisfaction. The main concern for buying garments was how comfortable and mobile they are while wearing them. They also needed outdoor garments. Lastly, they looked forward to the shop specialized in the garments for disabled people. 3) The functional pants for adult men using wheelchairs had the same zipper as that of general pants. The waist belt was made of rubber to reduce the pressure on waist and to cover 2 inches (5 cm) of waist circumference. Also it should be made to secure each button within the belt in accordance with size. Finally, it was designed as formal wrinkled pants that had pockets within the reach of hands when the disabled used wheelchairs.
Comparison of somatotypes from various classification methods - Between 18 and 24 years old Korean Women -
Lee, Jeong-Yim ; Nam, Yun-Ja ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 2, 2004, Pages 221~228
The purpose of this study was to compare somatotypes from various classification methods, to analyze the interrelation among each somatotype or each high frequency type, and to suggest the basis to interpret body size and shape more accurately. As a sample, the subjects were 97 Korean females between 18 and 24 years old. They were measured both anthropometric and photographic measuring in November, 1999. Their somatotypes were classified by three kinds of classification methods. The first method was based on the lateral view of body, the second involved Factor and Cluster analysis with the photographic measurements of anterior and lateral body, and the third involved Factor and Cluster analysis with the anthropometric measurements of whole body. The upper body was classified into three types, and the lower body was classified into 6 types from the lateral view of body. The bend-forward/q-2 was found to be the 'High-frequency type from the lateral view of body', and the Straight/n-1 was found to be the 'Straight type from the lateral view of body'. From the classification by the analysis of photographic measurements, the anterior body was classified into three types, the lateral was classified into 4 types. The X/
type was found to be the 'High-frequency type from the analysis of photographic measurements of anterior and lateral body'. From the classification by the analysis of anthropometric measurements, the whole body was classified into three types. The i type was found to be the 'High-frequency type from the analysis of anthropometric measurements of whole body'. The significant interrelation was certified among some somatotypes or some High-frequency types. We found that both the view of body and the statistical analysis would make the clear definition of each somatotype possible. In order to certify the representativeness of High-frequency type, further analysis would be required of subjects who were in the High-frequency type and their body parts were in the High-frequency range.
Study of Crease Resistant Finish on Hemp Fabrics(Andongpo)
Choi, Hee ; Kim, Ryong ; Hong, Sung-Hak ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 2, 2004, Pages 229~233
Andongpo, 100% Korean hemp fabric was treated with the glyoxale resin type finishing agent and/or the soluble urethane type finishing agent to determine the optimum process condition of the crease resistant finish and the crease recovery of treated sample fabrics was evaluated for the study. The treatment conditions for the study were 6 conditions, such as, A-1~A-6, in which A-1 was the condition of treatment glyoxale resin type finishing agent only and A-2~A-6 were the condition of treatment both glyoxale resin type finishing agent and soluble urethane type finishing agent. Among the 6 conditions, the crease recovery of the sample treated with A-4 condition was
(angle of recovery method) and grade 3.2(appearance method) and so, these samples showed the excellent crease recovery. From the result, 15g/l of the catalyst conc., 50g/l of the glyoxale resin type finishing agent cone., and 40g/l of the softner were the optimum treatment condition for the crease resistant finish of the andongpo.
A Study on the Cotton Fabrics Dyeing Using Loess
Jung, Meung-Sun ; Kim, Hoo-Jeong ; Rhy, Duk-Hwan ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 2, 2004, Pages 234~238
Loess was selected as one of the natural dyes and dye solution was extracted from it. With the dyes extracted from loess, the sample fabrics were dyed at 10, 20, and 30 minutes and then
was used to treat the dyed fabrics on the concentration of 3%, and 5%. Color difference and colorfastness of the sample fabrics with dyeing time and concentration of post-mordanted agent were analysed. The results were as follows: 1. Effective dying time was 20 minutes since any more dye up-take to the fabrics did not occur after that time. 2. There was distinctive dyeing effect according to whether post-mordanted method was done or not, but there was little effect between post-mordanted concentration of 3% and 5%. 3. There was no effect of the colorfastness on the post-mordanted concentration. The abrasion and laundering colorfastness of post-mordanted fabric samples was better than those of no post-mordanted fabric samples and the light colorfastness of the fabric samples was good regardless of post-mordanted method.
The Dyeing Characteristics of Wool Fabrics by Combination Dyeing of Gardenia and Sappan Wood
Sung, Woo-Kyung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 2, 2004, Pages 239~244
On the whole the various medium colors were developed by repeat dyeing with different colorants after dyeing with one colorant in case of natural dyeing. In this study, in order to obtain various colors on wool fabrics with Gardenia and Sappan wood colorants, pre-mordanting and combination dyeing were carried out. Gardenia and Sappan wood used as natural colorants for combination dyeing showed good miscibility in dye bath, Metal compounds containing alum, copper and iron were used for pre-mordants. The various medium colors such as yellow-red were obtained according to various metal compounds for pre-mordants and various mixing portion of these natural colorants. The surface reflactance spectra and color characteristics of wool fabrics by mordanting and combination dyeing were investigated.
After-treatment of Jumchi Technique for using Dakji as Clothing Material
Kim, Jung-Ju ; Jang, Jeong-Dae ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 2, 2004, Pages 245~248
This study examied ned physical properties and surface characteristics of papers post-processed by Jumchi technique and stainability of extract from Amur Cork-Tree to use Dakji as clothing material. Then, it found the following results. After-treatment by Amorphophalus konjac K. Koch and persimmon juice showed stronger tensile strength and tearing strength than untreated samples and the drape stiffness was substantially increased. After-treatment by persimmon juice generated dyeing effects as well as excellent tensile strength and tearing strength all samples were generally dyed well by Amur Cork-Tree, While the untreated samples did not show any significant effects in dyeing for more than 5 minutes. It was found that after-treatment substantially contributed on concentration of dyeing as dyeing amounts of post-processed samples were gradually increased as time increased. After-treated sample with agar did not show any significant differences from untreated sample. Accordingly, it has to be studied further.