Go to the main menu
Skip to content
Go to bottom
REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 6, Issue 6 - Dec 2004
Volume 6, Issue 5 - Oct 2004
Volume 6, Issue 4 - Aug 2004
Volume 6, Issue 3 - Jun 2004
Volume 6, Issue 2 - Apr 2004
Volume 6, Issue 1 - Feb 2004
Selecting the target year
중국 신사복 생산지의 위상과 한국 패션기업의 대응전략
Lee, Yu-Soon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 3, 2004, Pages 261~265
A Study on the Sensitive Image of Pattern Applied Color ＆ Formative Types of the Traditional Jokakbo
Choi, Yoon-Hye ; Eun, Young-Ja ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 3, 2004, Pages 266~274
This study is on the sensitive image of pattern expressed in the color & formative types of traditional Jokakbo(scraps of cloth). The object of this research is Korean traditional scraps of cloth in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty. This study is to be classified into 10 formative types like square type 1, square type 2, diagonal type, diamond type, many color striped type, concentric circle type, pinwheel type, vertical line type, cintamani pattern type, and free style type to apply the design of Jokakbo to Korean design. And color group is divided into vivid tone and pale tone. And it constitutes 17 patterns from the combination of these two types. As for the factors of constitution of scraps of cloth, it consists of factors like revelation, attraction, temperature sense, abstract, and rigidity. In the emotional image in the patterns, both vivid tone and pale tone showed dynamic and warm emotion together. Also, the factors of revelation and attraction were evaluated as opposite images, and it evaluated the plain and dim emotion as more attractive emotion. They preferred the pale tone to the vivid tone. They preferred the cintamani pattern in the vivid tone, and the diamond pattern in the pale tone most. From the research result above, this study made the abstract image of scraps of cloth standardized and prepared for a basis to execute it essentially. This research will be used as basic data to make traditional Korean image spotlighted in the world fashion markets as well as it will be helpful to the development of pattern design for the scraps of cloth essentially.
The Expression-Form Decentering Phenomenon in Modern Fashion
Kwon, Jung-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 3, 2004, Pages 275~284
Post-structuralism in Fashion tendency since the late 20th century has been developing in complicated and diverse modes. Post-structuralism has revealed the inconsistency of Western philosophy contering on rationalism, and has formed an important thought system of modern time through open thinking and various ways of expression. Among them, decentering which is formed from the concern for outlying 'others' while denying self-centered 'man himself, has supplied a new cognizance paradigm in the expression and interpretation of fashion formation. This paper has analyzed the expression-form of fashion in three ways: de-construction, discontinuance, and esthetic appreciation of the others. Finarly this study has supplyed, though decentering thinking, a new esthetic cognizance principle for fashion which is expressed in free and multiple meaning and form.
A Study on the Plan of Research Color Code for Color Management in Fashion Industry
Lee, Kyung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 3, 2004, Pages 285~296
Fashion business must reflect the seasonable fashion trend because fashion has change always, and therefore fashion business has a big risk at the attribute. Careful consideration should be given to the selection of a particular color code to meet the purpose of marketing research in various color products. It must be designed to grasp systematically and comprehensively the current trend of colors. The most suitable color code for meeting this proposition would be one based on the designation by color ranges. The ISCC-NBS method of designating colors, published in 1955, was established by dividing the color solid into 267 color name blocks. The detailed classification like the ISCC-NBS system is very appropriate to serve the purpose of giving all color names according to color ranges. But it is somewhat too complicated to answer the purpose of surveying the trend of colors and of comparing and evaluating the ups and downs in the popularity of the range of each individual color. I have worked out the most convenient method of designating colors in accordance with the type of investigation needed. It is the classification which involves four classification system in itself, fundamental, gross, medium, and minute. The fundamental classification system classifies hues and neutrals into 16ranges. The gross classification system divides the above 16 ranges into 30. The medium classification divides the above 30 ranges into 103 in terms of tones. The minute classification divides the above 103 ranges into 207 in terms of specipic hues.
The Study of the Historic Origin and the Symbolism of Mehndi
Jo, Eun-Young ; Yoo, Tai-Soon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 3, 2004, Pages 297~306
Mehndi, becoming a kind of body fashion in western advanced countries nowadays, is a exquisite, classical fashion form sublimated to traditional faith, medicine and designing art. As one of the cultural arts, especially transmitted by women, a individual tradition of the way how to do the mehndi and the design has been handed down from one culture to another over a thousand of years and it is extensively using in many area, all around world today. Mehndi was used as preparing for special events or celebrations in India, Africa, Central Asia in order to pray for happiness, good luck and calm hart 5000 years ago. Especially, it is concerned with romantic love or a wedding and takes important part of a traditional wedding reception and bride adorning in the culture of Hindu or Islam. In addition to adorning skin, mehndi has various symbols, meaning, function, that is, as a speechless language, in several cultures, it has common meaning such as attraction, protection, celebration. The design of mehndi has been in harmony with the figure, colors, skin types of the dress or the ornament. According to the region, religion, design, mehndi is divided into the design of India and Morocco mostly. Indian design mainly shows flowers and paisley pattern, people widely recognize this design to celebrate and adorn bride in wedding ceremony, still apply mehndi the present time. Moroccan mehndi design, representing North Africa, characterized a bold geometrical figure which stands for belief in living under the protection from supernatural power. Through the understanding of these various meaning, function, symbolism of the design, adorning their body, the current general public use mehndi as not only aesthetic means but also another self expression.
A Study on Many Pleated Skirt of Miao Women's Guizhou Province in China
Kim, Young-Sin ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 3, 2004, Pages 307~313
The Purpose of this study is to investigated characteristics of many pleated skirt of Miao women's Guizhou province in China. The method of this study is referd to sundry recordes and demonstrated traditional clothing of several region in Guizhou province. The most important characteristic of the costume of the Miao is the many pleated skirt, worn by most but not all groups. Pleats are pulled into place with a sharp pointed instrument and sprinkled constantly with starch. The length of the pleated skirt depends on the group. The long skirts reach to the ankle, the medium-sized to the shank and the short ones not below the knee. The design of the pleated skirt is simple but most pleated skirt ornamented with fine, cross-stiched or batic designs of geometrical figures. The figures decorated on the pleated skirt has been handed down with little change from generation to generation and has become an important mark of Miao women's each area. Seeing the many pleated skirt of Miaos investigated in these several respects by the standard of contemporary beauty, it is thought that it has the infinite possibility of being used in contemporary fashion design on account of the characteristics of almost perfect costume.
The Effects of Customer Orientation and Sales Training on Salespeople Performance - Focused on Apparel Salespeople at Department Stores in Daegu -
Park, Kwang-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 3, 2004, Pages 314~320
The purposes of this paper were to investigate the effect of customer orientation on salespeople performance and the effects of sales training on customer orientation and salespeople performance. Data were obtained from 297 apparel salespeople working at 6 department stores in Daegu, Statistics used for data analysis were frequency, t-test, ANOVA, and regression analyses. The unanticipated result was found that the customer orientation of salespeople did not influence their performance. Though there was found the significance of the anticipated results that sales training affected customer orientation and salespeople performance, the results were not strong.
Purchasing Behaviors of Fashion Products in CATV Home-Shopping
Song, Bong-Ju ; So, Gwi-Sook ; Park, Eun-Joo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 3, 2004, Pages 321~328
The purpose of this study were to investigate the differences of shopping value, promotional affects and product characteristics between buyers and non-buyers, and to examine the most influenced variable on purchasing behaviors of fashion products in CATV home-shopping. We collected data from 595 consumers related to CATV home-shopping in Busan. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, t-test,
-test and discriminant analysis. Results showed that there are significant differences between buyers and non-buyers of shopping value demographic characteristics, promotional affects and product characteristics. Especially, shopping value perceived by consumers(e.g., practical value and hedonic value) and product characteristics(e.g., response of others) discriminated whether consumers purchased the fashion products of CATV home-shopping or not. We discussed the implications of results to encourage the purchasing behavior of fashion products in CATV home-shopping.
A Study on Body Cathexis, Satisfaction with Apparel Fit and Appearance- Management Behaviors according to Physical figure
Su, Hwa-Sook ; Song, Jung-A ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 3, 2004, Pages 329~335
The purpose of this study was to investigate the differences between the body cathexis, appearance management behaviors and satisfaction with apparel fit according to physical figure of college women who had deep interests in their body and appearance. Data for this study was obtained from 413 college women in Taegu and Kyungpook Province. Means, t-test, ANOVA and Scheffe's post hoc comparison were used in data analysis. The result of this study were; 1. It was found that both body Cathexis and fit satisfaction of college women were generally low. College women were less satisfied with their body and fit of apparel. The unsatisfied body parts were thighs, abdomen and hip. 2. Significant differences in Satisfaction with apparel fit were found in skirt length, slacks length, thigh according to height and significant difference in satisfaction with apparel fit were found in armhole, abdomen, calf according to weight. 3. Significant differences in appearance management behaviors were not found according to height, but significant differences in diet, exercise and clothing use were found according to weight. Also significant differences in diet and clothing use were found according to R
A Difference of Clothing Behavior of Jean's Wearer According to the Gender
Lee, Joung-Suk ; Sung, Su-Kwang ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 3, 2004, Pages 336~340
This is the result of the comparison of the number of jeans, colors, images, opinions when it was purchased, shapes according to the gender of persons in jeans. According to the gender, male students had 1.64 jeans(46.3%) and female students had 2.09 jeans(53.7%) on the average. Male students selected colors of jeans which they don't have, but want to wear once in the order of blue(3.7%), red(21.0%), white(24.1%), black(25.6%), and others(25.6%). Female students selected colors in the order of blue(3.2%), black(15.6%), red(24.8%), white(27.7%) and others(25.6%). In case of the general image about jeans, male students thought the jeans as masculine(1.2%), sexy(3.1%), unisexual(3.2%), active(23.6%), young(29.8%), and comfortable(36.5%) and female students thought it as masculine(0.3%), sexy(3.5%), unisexual(10.4%), young(21.9%), comfortable(28.1%) and active(35.8%). Male students considered torn or holed jeans ill-mannered(10.7%), delinquent, (20.7%)trendy(21.0%), comfortable(22.9%), and dandy(24.7%). Female students think it ill-mannered(3.4%), delinquent7.1%, trendy(17.4%), comfortable(21.1%), and dandy(50.9%). When they purchase jeans, male students choose according to trends(17.9%), don't consider design(19.5%) and look for their own styles(62.6%), female students didn't consider design(5.2%), choose according to trends(22.0%), and look for their own styles(72.5%). The designs of jeans which they usually wear were bell bottom(1.5%), wide-shaped(7.4%), baggy(17.5%), straight-shaped(73.6%) in case of male students. on the other hand, in case of female students, baggy(10.2%), wide-shaped(11.0%), bell bottom(17.0%), and straight-shaped(61.8%). The designs of jeans which they didn't have but want to wear once are wide-shaped(10.1%), bell bottom(13.2%), baggy(20.9%), and straight-shaped(55.2%) in case of male students. On the other hand, females students want to wear baggy(11.6%), wide-shaped(15.0%), straight-shaped(27.6%), and bell bottom(45.8%). The above-mentioned findings illustrated that both male and female students regarded blue as the original color of jeans, but they wanted to wear jeans in colors other than blue. In the past, jeans were considered masculine and unisex, but they viewed jeans as an apparel that was comfortable to wear and made it easier to move. Female students had a higher tendency to be fashionable than male students, and their preference for jeans was consequently different. Jeans manufacturers should take those characteristics into account to produce products in different colors and form.
A Survey on Wearing Situation of Surgery Gown
Kim, Jung-Sook ; Kwon, Hyun-Sun ; Sung, Su-Kwang ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 3, 2004, Pages 341~346
The situation of wearing of surgery gown and their awareness were surveyed to clinicians and nurses in operation rooms of major university hospitals in the country to develop and manufacture surgery gowns for medical personnels. The survey result was quantified to be used as a base data for design of surgery gowns with freshness and convenience as well as safety to wearers. In the inspection of surgery gowns focused on materials (cotton raw material and disposable nonwoven) and dissatisfaction, there was no significance in the activity and freshness with p-0.745 and p-0.367, respectively, however, there was a significance in safety and management with p-0.011 and 0.049, respectively: disposable nonwoven gown showed higher satisfaction level in safety and management compared to cotton gowns.
An Analysis of Body Measurement and Apparel Size for Woman's Ready-Made Jacket
Cho, Youn-Joo ; Paek, Kyung-Ja ; Lee, Jeong-Ran ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 3, 2004, Pages 347~356
The purpose of this study is to analyze the sizing system and size designation of ready-made jackets for women. We survey the sizing system and size labeling that have been used and presently practiced by the domestic garment industry of ready-made woman's jacket. In addition, 264 tailored jackets are measured for the sake of this study. The jackets are classified into 3 groups(young, missy, and madame) according to the target age of the brand. The result shows that size labeling involves body measurements(85-94-160), size code(55, 66) or simplified letter(S, M, L). However, the correspondence of size information and ease tolerances of jackets is not consistent and each company has its own sizing system. There are significant differences among young, missy, and madame group on the bust girth of apparel in 66size code. The average apparel size piteh measurement distributions(bust girth and hip girth respectively) of young group are 9cm and 13cm in 55 size code, those of missy group are 7 em and 3 cm in 66 size code, and those of madame group are 6cm and 4cm in 77 size code. The ease of bust girth and hip girth in missy group are much more than other groups.
A Study on Characteristics and Correspondence of Men's Back and Chest Types
Paek, Kyung-Ja ; Lee, Jeong-Ran ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 3, 2004, Pages 357~366
The purpose of this study is to classify the types of men's back and chest through the criteria which represent the characteristic of men's back and chest. We have the following conclusions based on our sample size of 291 men's back and chest. The result of factor analysis concerned with men's back indicates that six factors are extracted and they are consist of 80.6% of total variance. We divide the shape of back into three categories: bent, protrusion of the scapula, and breadth. Each category is divided into subcategories. According to the frequency based on our data entries of 291 men's back, we introduce five new types of men's back. 83.8% of examined men's back belong to one of these five types: (i) 15.5% of protrudent and lordotic type; (ii) 6.5% of flat and lordotic type; (iii) 22.7% of protrudent and normal type; (iv) 34.4% of flat and normal type; (v) 4.8% of flat and bent type. The result of factor analysis related to with men's chest shows that six factors are extracted and they are consist of 76.0% of total variance. We divide the shape of chest into three categories: thickness, breadth, and protrusion of the breast. Each category is divided into subcategories. According to the frequency based on our data entries of 291 men's chest, we introduce four new types of men's chest. 65.0% of examined men's chest belong to one of these four types: (i) 7.2% of full and well-developed type; (ii) 24.1% of full and developed type; (iii) 25.8% of flat and developed type; (iv) 7.9% of flat and under-developed type. In order to consider the shape of the upper body as a whole, the back and the chest types should be corresponded.
The Middle Age Women's the Image Evaluation and the Preference of Tailored Jacket According to the Body Type and the Degree of Body Satisfaction - Focused on the Collar's Figure-
Ryoo, Sook-Hee ; Park, Jong-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 3, 2004, Pages 367~376
The purpose of this study is to analyze the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket focused on the collar's figure according to the body type and the degree of satisfaction with their body of middle-aged women. For this study, twenty seven different types of tailored jacket were designed with some variation of their silhouette, the length and the collar's figure on three hundred and twenty three middle-aged women ranging from 35 to 50 years old. There was a significant difference in the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket according to the body type of middleaged women. The women of the type 1 evaluated that portrait lapel collar were the most fascinating, elegant and active, tender and they preferred that style. The women of the type 2 evaluated that breast lapel collar were the most fascinating, elegant and active, tender and they preferred that style. The women of the type 3 evaluated that breast lapel collar were the most fascinating, elegant and active, tender and they preferred that style. The women of the type 4 evaluated that waist lapel collar were the most fascinating, elegant and active, tender and they preferred that style. There was a meaningful difference in the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket according to the degree of satisfaction with their bodies. As satisfied with their face size, they thought breast/portrait lapel collar were more attractive, graceful and active, soft and they preferred that style. As satisfied with weight they regarded portrait lapel collar as more attrative, graceful and active, soft and they preferred that style. In this study we found that the middle-aged women evaluated the tailored jacket which was looking esthetic and fitting their body types, as the most attrative, elegant, active, and tender clothing and they prefered that kind of tailored jacket.
Preparation and Characteristics of Polypropylene Nonwoven Fabric Grafted by Styrene
Kim, Sang-Yool ; Na, Choon-Ki ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 3, 2004, Pages 377~383
Photografting of styrene (St) on polypropylene (PP) nonwoven fabric using benzoin ethyl ether (BEE) as a photosensitizer was investigated. Inhibition of homopolymerization was achieved by adding various concentrations of
and Mohr's salt. As St concentration was increased, the degree of grafting was increased as to a specific value and then decreased, and the effect of BEE concentration showed the same tendency. It was also found that the degree of grafting increased with reaction time and reaction temperature. Addition of the polyfunctional monomers and
to the grafting system accelerated the photografting. The melting temperature, molecular weight, tensile strength and elongation were decreased with the increase in the degree of grafting.
Preparation and Characterization of Acrylic Acid Grafted Polypropylene Nonwoven Fabric
Kim, Sang-Yool ; Na, Choon-Ki ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 3, 2004, Pages 384~392
The purpose of this study is in development of effective filter-type polymer adsorbent for removal of pollutants from wastewater by UV irradiation graft polymerization. Photografting of acrylic acid (AA) on polypropylene (PP) nonwoven fabric using benzophenone (BP) as a photosensitizer was investigated. Inhibition of homopolymerization was achieved by adding various concentrations of
and Mohr's salt. As AA concentration was increased, the degree of grafting was increased as to a specific value and then decreased, and the effect of BP concentration showed the same tendency. It was also found that the degree of grafting increased with reaction time and reaction temperature. Addition of the polyfunctional monomers and
to the grafting system accelerated the photografting. The melting temperature, molecular weight and breaking stress and breaking strain were decreased with the increase in the degree of grafting.
A Study on Recycling NaOH from Pre-treatment Process with Concentration Control System - Scouring Ability of Cotton Fabric Treated with Recycled NaOH -
Lee, Un-Pill ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 3, 2004, Pages 393~398
This research offers recycling method of NaOH from mercerizing process of cotton fabric. The measuring system of NaOH concentration was designed for the mercerizing process and tested for various conditions which can be occurred in factory. The accuracy of the system was varied as the testing condition was changed. As the concentration of sulfuric acid used for titrating NaOH decreased, the accuracy of measuring system increased. The concentration of NaOH for waste water collected from mercerizing process was measured by 5.2%. As the ratio of newly mixed NaOH increased, moisture regain. water absorbency and whiteness of the specimen increased. The bending rigidity(B) and shear rigidity(G) decreased, as the ratio of newly mixed NaOH increased.
The Standardization of Graded Sizes through Comparing Bodice Patterns by Draping Method and Studied Flat Pattern Method -Using Replica Body-
Shim, Kue-Nam ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 3, 2004, Pages 399~403
Education of clothing and textiles in the university is various according to the purposes. Among that clothing construction and practice is what is needed the most in understanding the process of apparel producing, and is the basic subject of areas from apparel designs to quality management. Producing apparel starts from planning the bodice pattern according to the human body shape. Basic bodice pattern should be highly practical so that production of all items of apparel patterns can be possible. Also, a basic bodice pattern needs to be planned in the way that even beginners can use it by classifying sizes according to each body measurements. Thus in this study. bodice patterns will be produced in way of draping method subjecting university students in early 20s. standardized and classified sizes will be calculated from it and bodice pattern made by studied flat pattern method will be examined and compared so that finally suitability will be compared. As a result of examining and comparing bodice patterns made by draping method and studied flat pattern method on the model of the human body produced by plaster method, sizes were classified into 5 levels. As a result of evaluation of creation. satisfying consequence from various body shape was acquired and it is expected of the beginners who are stating from clothing construction and practice to be educated by using the result of this study.