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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 6, Issue 6 - Dec 2004
Volume 6, Issue 5 - Oct 2004
Volume 6, Issue 4 - Aug 2004
Volume 6, Issue 3 - Jun 2004
Volume 6, Issue 2 - Apr 2004
Volume 6, Issue 1 - Feb 2004
Selecting the target year
일본에서의 퍼스널컬러 시스템의 추이
Matsuura, Sumie ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 5, 2004, Pages 535~538
The Style of Bobos Represented in Modern Fashion
Park, Hyo-Eun ; Yoo, Young-Sun ; Lee, Shin-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 5, 2004, Pages 539~548
The purpose of this study is to know outer and inner characteristics of Bobos style regarded the latest fashion and to estimate the characteristics of fashion trend in 21st century and direction of fashion in the future, In terms of contentions of this study, we firstly studied concept, background, general characteristics which had been introduced in Sociology. And then, we studied the effect which the style of Bobos had been given by investigating the concept and style of Hippies and Yuppies. Also, we analysed trend of Bobos represented in modem fashion and tried to examine outer and inner features of Bobos through the result of analysis. Bobos can defined as 'Bourgeois Bohemian' who have both mundane desire about success and are high-educated elite class in information-oriented society. The fashion styles which had affected Bobos were psychedelic, naturalism, unisex, ethnic, layered, grunge of Hippies in 1960s and traditional, power-look, contemporary-look, sports wear, casual wear of Yuppies in 1980s. As a result of examining features of Bobos style, we can know that outer feature of Bobos style showed a reasonable harmony regardless of formalities and inner features showed a tendency to seek comforts. Also, Bobos style showed various and free styles, textile materials and colors and complex features to transcend the time and region, and culture.
A Study on Design Properties Affecting in Wearing - Focused on Adult Women's Town Wear -
Lee, Eun-Rung ; Lee, Kyoung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 5, 2004, Pages 549~557
The purpose of this study is to investigate design properties affecting in evaluated image by adult women's town wear in un-limited circumstance. The stimulus, adult women's town wear, were collected from shopping mall, department stores and churches and evaluated by 20's 150 people. Through the estimations, the 76 pictures of 'good image' and 65 pictures of 'bad image', were selected and analyzed by classification categories. The results were as follows : 1) 'Good Image' is classified 6 groups which are like active casual, feminine casual, adult casual, modern, sporty casual, and elegance. 2) "Bad Image' is classified 5 groups which are like easy casual, active casual, soft casual, modern casual, and feminine casual. 3) Central code of adult women's town wear from 'Good Image' are simple, bright, and harmony and 'Bad Image' are complicate, heavy, and inharmony. The coordination, how to wear, is very important to evaluate image of women's town wear with other properties. Also, body shape appeared by important variable in evaluation.
A Study on the Korean Women's Swimwear Design(I)
Kim, Hye-Kyung ; Cho, Eun-Jung ; Choi, Hyung-Min ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 5, 2004, Pages 558~564
The purpose of this study was to examine the design characteristics of women's swimwear from 1955 to 1969 in Korea using documentary research sources. Both visual and linguistic elements found in the illustrations and advertisements that appeared in periodicals from 1955 to 1969 were used as primary sources. The primary sources were 아리랑, 여상, 여성계, 여성동아, 여원, 주부생활. The methods of content analysis and frequency seriation were combined to analyze the data obtained from the primary sources. Seriational analysis of the data were performed by ordering the frequency chronologically for the entire fifteen-year period. As the result of the study, it was found that the design of the swimwear during this period changed consistently in terms of swimwear type, shape of thigh line, textile design and decorative details. The degree of skin exposure was also continuously increased in different body parts.
Types and Characteristics of the Baekje Costume Focusing on the Related Relics and Remains
Kwon, Young-Suk ; Lee, Joo-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 5, 2004, Pages 565~574
The purpose of this study is to investigate the historical background and basic composition of costume of the Baekje period. Main official hats of Baekje include the transformed hat, jougwan and daeryun-style ipsikgwan. Daeryun-style ipsikgwan employed chowha shape in most cases, symbolizing good auspice under the harmony of the male and female principles. Main types of costume of the Baekje period are po, yu, go and sang. The king, governmental officials and the common people all put on po of jikryeong gyoim style. Yu' is classified into two styles, chaksu with the narrow sleeve and daesu with the broad one. 'Go' has two styles, gunggo and gwango. The former is narrow in the breadth of the trouser and the latter, wide. 'Sang' is classified into various style according to whether it contains stripes of many colors, thin wrinkles or thick wrinkles. For the decoration of official hat used in the period of the Three Kingdoms, Baekje employed chowha in shape, Kokuryo, chowha and joik and Shilla, joik. In Baekje, rhythmic patterns of flame were applied to official hats, presenting brilliance. In Shilla, shaking geumyeongrak was used for official hats to show movement. In Kokuryo, such hats used flapping feathers, symbolizing dynamic power. Most necklaces and bracelets of the Baekje period were simple and plain.
A Study on the Perception Difference Analysis of Brand Image and Advertisement Image According to the Advertisement Expression Forms of Domestic Make-up Cosmetics - Focusing on the Students & Employees in Beauty & Fashion Industry in Chonbuk Provinces -
Lee, Ji-Young ; Kim, Yong-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 5, 2004, Pages 575~584
The purpose of this study was to investigate the differences in recognition of brand and advertisement image according to the advertisement expression forms of domestic make-up cosmetics. This study was conducted by means of a questionnaire survey of female which age from twenties to the thirties. The statistics used for data analysis were frequency distribution, Percentage, mean, factor analysis, and paired t-test by the SPSS program. The results of this study were as follows. The brand and advertisement image of domestic Make-up cosmetics were classified into seven factors. : Of good quality, high-toned, modern, chic, unique, familiar, stimulative brand and advertisement image. The brand image and advertisement image recognition didn't correspond in general except HERCYNA and ETUDE.
Credit-Card Use and Clothing Purchasing according to Lifestyles of College Students
Na, Young-Joo ; Lee, Eun-Hee ; Chang, Kyung-Ja ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 5, 2004, Pages 585~594
This study aimed to classify the lifestyles of 1020 college students, and to analyze the effect of the lifestyles on the usages of credit card, price perception, purchasing satisfaction and the number of new clothing. The number of credit cards, total payment of credit cards and the attitude to credit card were different by the 7 clusters of college students, but the frequency of credit card use, the amount of cash service and arrear ages were not different. The perception to the apparel price, purchasing satisfaction, and the degree of clothing purchasing varied according to the lifestyle clusters. For example, 6th cluster being highest in the pursuit of appearance showed the highest amount of credit cards usage significantly and tendency of highest arrearage, and used credit cards mostly in clothing purchase.
A Study on Characteristics of Consumer Complaining Behavior on Internet Fashion Shopping Malls
Choi, Yun-Young ; Lee, Jin-Young ; Oh, Hee-Sun ; Suh, Yong-Han ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 5, 2004, Pages 595~604
This study is to investigate complaining behavior of consumers who purchase fashion products on the internet, as well as to find how the complaining behaviors are related to the consumers' characteristics. The subjects of this study are limited to the consumers who have experienced dissatisfaction when purchasing fashion products through the internet. The questionnaires were administered to male and female respondents using the internet shopping mall. The results can be summarized as follows: The factor analysis shows that consumer complaining behaviors are fitted well into four factors(direct complaining behavior, private complaining behavior, third-party complaining behavior, and no response). In the difference analysis by consumer's complaining behavior styles and gender, private complaining and third-party complaining behavior were significant statistically. In the difference analysis between consumer's complaining behavior styles and internet self-efficacy. Internet self-efficacy was significantly different according to consumer's complaining behavior styles, especially for direct complaining, third-party complaining and no response. Private complaining behavior, third-party complaining behavior and no response were negatively related to consumer retention, while direct complaining behavior was not.
A Study on the Brand Personality according to G Sensibility - Centered on the Casual Brand of Levi's -
Oh, Hee-Sun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 5, 2004, Pages 605~612
This is a study which evaluates the brand personality on casual brands according to the sensibilities of consumers. Focus is placed on classifying the sensibilities of consumers through G sensibilities developed by the Fuji Research Institute in Japan, and then on investigating brand personality of casual wear, Levi's in particular. The subjects are 187 male and female college students living in the Busan area. Data were, using SPSS 10. 0 for Window, statistically analyzed by frequency and factor analysis for VARIMAX, Cronbach's coefficient, and ANOVA. The results of data analysis are as follow; First, in the distribution of G sensibility type, the majority of the respondents have G3(whimsical) type, and then followed by G1(my pace) type, G4(active) type, G2 type(active) type and then G5(sensualist) type. Second, as a result of brand personality evaluation on the casual brands, it has been represented by the following 5 factors; passion, competence, honesty, sophistication, and sentiment. Third, the brand personalities according to G sensibilities showed significant differences among respondents; G5 type(sensualist) especially showed the highest brand personality in the passion and sentiment factors, which are distinctive in the brand personality of Levi's. Consumers of G1 type, G2 type, G3 type, and G4 type showed high brand personality in the competence and honesty factors. The evaluation of brand personality, case study for products development and application, and application of the results need to be continued for follow-up study.
Influence of Light Intensities on Clothing Behavior and Melatonin Secretion
Kim, Hee-Eun ; Tokura, Hiromi ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 5, 2004, Pages 613~617
The intent of this study was to determine whether different light exposure could modify the clothing behavior in the evening cold environment or not. Nine female subjects volunteered to this study. In a bright light or a dim light condition, light intensity was controlled 3000 lx or 10 lx respectively. Subjects were introduced to wear various kinds of garments whenever they need to feel comfortable as the room temperature began to decrease. The room temperature was lowered from
for one hour (21:00 h~22:00 h) and maintained at
for additional one hour (22:00 h~23:00 h). Subjects stayed in chamber from 08:00 to the next day 07:00. Clothing behavior, core temperature, subjective temperature sensation and melatonin secretion were measured. Most subjects put on the clothing more quickly and more thickerly in the bright light rather than in the dim light condition. The fall of core temperature during night was significantly less under the bright light in the late afternoon, suggesting that the set-point of core temperature has been set at a higher level during the evening and the night, being supported by the less amount of melatonin secretion. Thus, it is concluded that the quicker dressing behavior with thicker clothing in the "Bright" condition is advantageous in evening cold exposure, since it enables the core temperature to reach its set-point value more easily.
The Effect of Consumer Need for Tactile Cues on Purchase Intention in Internet Shopping Mall - An Moderating Effect of Perceived Risk, Purchased Experience -
Kwon, So-Young ; Lee, Jin-Young ; Oh, Hee-Sun ; Suh, Yong-Han ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 5, 2004, Pages 618~624
This study is to explore how consumers' needs for tactile cues affect their purchasing behaviors in the internet shopping mall. Since previous studies about internet shopping malls are mainly performed on the primary factors of perceived risk, there are insufficient studies of tactile cues for apparel products. Emphasis of this study is placed on verifying the following hypothesis; it is expected that consumers' needs for tactile cues affect apparel purchasing behaviors in internet shopping. The questionnaire was administered to 20 to 30 year old male and female respondents who are either students or businessmen living in the Busan area. 150 questionnaires were completed and collected for data analysis. The data were, using SPSS 10. 0 for Window, statistically analyzed by frequency and factor analysis for VARIMAX, Cronbach's coefficient and Linear regression analysis. Data were, using SPSS 10. 0 for Window, statistically analyzed by frequency and factor analysis for VARIMAX, Cronbach's coefficient, and ANOVA. The results of data analysis are as follows: First, the tactile cues negatively affect purchase intentions of consumers. This shows that apparel internet shoppers who have high desire for tactical cues tend to avoid purchasing products through the internet. Second, the factor analysis of the moderating effect on perceived risks shows that the perceived risks significantly moderate both the tactile cues and purchase intention of consumers. Third, analysis of purchased experience also shows that purchased experiences significantly moderate both the tactile cues and purchase intention.
A Comparison of Body Types Between Korean and Mongolian Women within the 18 to 24 Age Group(Part I)
Kwon, Soon-Jung ; Hong, Jung-Min ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 5, 2004, Pages 625~633
A comparison between the body types of Korean and Mongolian women was made and analyzed to provide a foundation for securing the Mongolian fashion market. 404 adults within the 18 to 24 age group were studied. From the results of comparing 27 items of direct anthropometric measurements, 15 items were shown to have significant differences. Mongolian women were larger in values for 13 items than were Korean women except two items, which are back waist length and arm length. From the results of comparing 25 items of index values, 19 items were shown to have significant differences. The comparison of the anatomical proportions showed that the lower half of Mongolian women's bodies were longer and their shoulder and hips were wider than those of Korean women. Based on these direct anthropometric measurements and index values, Korean and Mongolian women were categorized into 4 Types; Type 1 is average body type with tall height and longer lower half of the body. Type 2 is slimmer body type with average height. Type 3 is average body type with shorter height. Lastly, type 4 is obese body type with average height.
A Development of the Lower Clothes Grading Rule for High School Boys
Lim, Ji-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 5, 2004, Pages 634~640
Nowadays, the use of apparel CAD system is important to the mass production of ready to wear. Especially, computer-based grading is the most important process to improve the fitness of clothes and to reduce the time needed to make various size pattern. The purpose of this study was to suggest a standard sizing system for high school boys' pants and to suggest a grading method according to the sizing systems. The subjects were 217 high school boys of 16 to 18 year-old. The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3 cm and 4 cm respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 4%, was classified 8 cases. Among them, 71-92 and 71-88 size were the most frequent size and were adopted the basic size for the two types of grading. According to the sizing system, hand-made patterns were manufactured. By measure of the each part of the slacks, 4 size's new grading-rule patterns were developed by each size. This result will contribute to clothing fitness of consumer and the amount of production.
Body Fat Correlation on Physical Measurement of Women in Age Group Between 20s and 30s
Jeon, Jung-Hye ; Sung, Su-Kwang ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 5, 2004, Pages 641~647
The research is focused on relationship between body fat percentage and physical characteristics of women in age group between 20s and 30s who experience great deal of physical change such as marriage, pregnancy, delivery, breast-feeding, and etc. The research used physical measurement of two hundreds women: 50 women in their early twenties, 50 women in their late twenties, 50 women in their early thirties, and 50 women in their late thirties. The research provides base data for women clothing industry by observing relationship between physical figure and body fat percentage rate based on obesity study on body fat percentage, physical BMI, R
hrer Index, and Vervaeck Index. Followings are conclusion of the research. The older the ages, the shorter the height and the heavier the weight. Recognizable differences in circumference, thickness, and width rather than in length are found. Also recognizable increases in average body fat percentage and average physical characteristics by age have found. By observing body fat percentage and physical measurements, it was revealed that weight has more effect on body fat percentage than height in all ages. Circumference, width, and thickness have more impact than length measurements among physical measurements. Main body or upper body has more impact than legs and arms or lower body. Body fat percentage increase rapidly by ages. 2.0% of age 20~24, 20.0% of age 25~29, 28.0% of age 30~34, and 54.0% of age 35~39 were sorted as obesity.
The Development of Brassiere Pattern for Middle School Students
Na, Mi-Hyang ; Kim, Mi-Sun ; Jung, Heh-Soon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 5, 2004, Pages 648~654
The purpose of this study was to develops of brassiere pattern for middle school students (15 ages
3). In order to design a brassiere pattern, the body surface shell was used as the basic pattern. The foundation pattern and the four-piece brassiere pattern with wire were designed and sewed. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The foundation pattern of the size 75A was proved proper for the body by the wearing tests. Each angle and length of the parts on the base line of the breasts played an important role on setting the pattern. 2. As based on the body surface shell extracted from a plaster mold, the cups of brassiere pattern were applied to the body surface shell, and full side stretch -wings were applied to 8% reduced body size. 3. As the result of the wearing test, the excellence of the experimental brassiere was recognized objectively, with high marks in all the items of clothing compensation, body motion, clothing pressure and breasts growth. The experimental brassiere was covering the whole breasts to cope with change according to breasts growth, It was designed to support the breasts firmly, not to press the middle part of them. Simultaneously, this has the advantages that satisfy a characteristic of a figure and the purpose of putting it on.
Sizing System of Women's Ready-to-Wear - Satisfaction with the Somatotype & Fit of American Women's Ready-to-Wear -
Kim, Hee-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 5, 2004, Pages 655~659
The purpose of this study is to investigate the somatotype variation & satisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear for American women. For this study, questionnaires were administered to 192 American women in Louisiana State areas. Employing a sample of 127 data were analyzed by using F-test. The results were as follows: In the satisfaction with the somatotype variation of American women, height items were increased and width items were decreased with aging. At neck, bust, waist, hip and sleeve circumferences, in the satisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear, were decreased with aging, Correlation for somatotype variation & satisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear was significantly positive. With aging, the satisfaction with the somatotype & fit of American women's ready-to-wear for sizing system was generally decreased.
A study on the Change of Hand of Chitosan Crosslinked Cotton Fabrics - Effect of Concentration of Epichlorohydrin and Chitosan -
Kim, Min-Ji ; Park, Jung-Woo ; Lee, Shin-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 5, 2004, Pages 660~666
This article describes the change of hand value of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics. The chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by mercerizing process using epichlorohydrin(ECH) as crosslinkins agent, 2% aqueous acetic acid as a solvent of chitosan and ECH, and 20% aqueous sodium hydroxide as a mercerizing agent and crosslinking catalyst. Cotton fabrics were dipped in the mixed solution of chitosan and ECH, picked up by mangle, mercerized and crosslinked in NaOH solution, and finally wash and dry. Mechanical and physical properties of the chitosan crosslinked fabric were investigated using Kawabata Evaluation System(KES) and other instruments. Tensile energy and tensile strain were decreased with the increase of the concentration of chitosan. Tensile resilience, compression resilience bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, shear stiffness, shear hysteresis, coefficient of friction, geometrical roughness, compression linearity, compressional energy, and thickness were increased with the increase of the concentration of chitosan. On the other hand, bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, coefficient of friction, geometrical roughness, compressional resilience, and thickness were increased with the increase of the concentration of crosslinking agent(epichlorohydrin).
The Printability and Flame Retardancy for DTP Media of Polyester Fabrics Treated with Phosphate Compound
Kim, Soo-Chang ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 5, 2004, Pages 667~672
Poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) fabrics were treated with a silica particle and phosphate flame retardant to determine the optimum process condition of the digital textile printing(DTP) media. The treating conditions for the study were 6 conditions, from F1 to F6, in which F3, F4 and F5 were treated with mixture of both silica particle and phosphate compound in process of pad, dry and cure fixation. F6 was treated with phosphate compound only and silica particle coating successively. Xanthan gum was used to control the migration of liquid phosphate compound onto PET fabrics. The change in surface morphology of fabrics treated with silica particle and phosphate compound was observed by SEM and flame retardance was evaluated by limiting oxygen index(LOI). It was observed that F6 was the excellent flame retardance and low bleeding in printing, Collectively, the printing characteristics of silica to cyan, magenta, yellow and black ink and flame retardance of fabrics finished with phosphate compound were identified in this study.