Go to the main menu
Skip to content
Go to bottom
REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 6, Issue 6 - Dec 2004
Volume 6, Issue 5 - Oct 2004
Volume 6, Issue 4 - Aug 2004
Volume 6, Issue 3 - Jun 2004
Volume 6, Issue 2 - Apr 2004
Volume 6, Issue 1 - Feb 2004
Selecting the target year
입는 컴퓨터를 위한 유비쿼터스 환경의 이해
Ahn, Young-Moo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 6, 2004, Pages 685~690
The Status and Educational Background of Displayers in Domestic Fashion Industry
Kim, Hye-Kyung ; Choi, Hyung-Min ; Lee, Kyoung-Mi ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 6, 2004, Pages 691~698
In viewpoint of visual merchandising, display is recognized as important means of expressing fashion as well as essential factor of stimulating customers' interest in purchase. However, visual merchandising is relatively new area and the studies on specialized display personnels are limited. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to investigate the status and educational background of displayers in domestic fashion industry. For this study, 72 display personnels working in 51 fashion brands were interviewed. As results, it was found that most of displayers were consisted of single women in the late twenties. And the main part of display work was performed outside office hours which brought out extension of working time. The displayers had relatively high educational background graduated mostly from the majors related to display such as clothing and applied arts. However, it was noted that new curriculum of these majors needs to be developed in order to provide the courses with more on-hand practices. In general, optimistic attitudes were significantly shown by the interviewees that the importance of display is increasingly recognized in the domestic fashion industry and therefore the prospect of display found to be expected as prosperous.
Fashion Firm's Utilization of Fashion Information
Jung, Song-Heang ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 6, 2004, Pages 699~706
In today's fashion industry, directions for new products and high value added of fashion goods, product changes according to cycles, the shortening of life cycles, added value, planned obsolescence, and presentation is focused on fashion trends that will be selected by many consumers at the point of selling time. Therefore fashion information poses great importance and its weight is growing bigger everyday. Fashion information recognized to be important is reflected practically in the prediction of fashion changes in the fashion industry; especially, it is the first stage of the merchandising process that is the course of new product development. Presently, with some differences according to the size and specialized area of a firm, domestic fashion menufacturers obtain information from sales data of competing brands and their own, market information, consumer information based on primary data, shared fashion trend information given by domestic fashion information providing companies. Firms can not produce differentiated images and product concepts using such shared information. Although the types, importance and reflection of used information vary according to merchandising processes, all experts engaging in the merchandising of fashion products use the same shared information.
A Research on the Actual Condition of Narrator Models' Wearing Uniform
Jung, Hea-Young ; Lee, Myung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 6, 2004, Pages 707~714
This study was carried out to research the actual condition of narrator models' wearing uniform, targeting on the narrator models who are being currently active and are from 19-year-old to 30-year-old. A poll was performed through visiting internet circles and spots, and the characteristic of objects, the form of uniform, attitude on uniform, dissatisfaction index on wearing uniform and preference index on wearing uniform were researched. It was carried out from August 18, 2003 to August 31, 2003. In order to perform this study, 161 questionnaires were used in all, and frequency analysis was implemented using SPSS 10.0. The objects of study were composed of female. Those who are from 21-year-old to 25-year-old accounted for 74.5%, and those who have career from 2 years to 3 years accounted for 75.5%. In respect to attitude on wearing uniform, affirmative answers, affirmative answers, such as a sense of belonging, a pride in activity and increase of efficiency, accounted for 68.8%. On the other hand, in respect to a harmonization between uniform and work, just the 39.8-percent showed affirmative reaction. Concerning the functionality of uniform, such as retaining warmth and ventilating, dissatisfaction index showed very high value; it is judged that it should be improved henceforth. Working postures were researched, following the order of standing posture and arm-using posture. In inconvenient actions, bending down and moving arms were orderly pointed out. With regard to the dissatisfaction of size, busts, the length of skirt and waist girth were orderly pointed out. Likewise, considering the parts of which room is required, bust, hip girth and waist girth were orderly pointed out. As to the points that should be bettered, design and functionality were orderly pointed out. In respect to materials of uniform, sweat-absorption material, light material and well-ventilated material were orderly suggested.
A Study of Men's Attitudes toward of their Image Chase
Mun, Ji-Young ; Kim, Jung-Won ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 6, 2004, Pages 715~722
The social culture critics say that the current situation of the boom in pretty men happened because stereotyped notions of sex roles have changed. However, no scientific study has been done as yet to support this theory. Therefore, this study analyzed the present situation and examined it from many different points of view. I asked 600 men to fill out the questionnaire: 300 from Daegu and the other 300 from Seoul. I analyzed four 461 of them. The inner/outer image of Korean males in their 20s was analyzed into seven factors, a positive image, a progressive image, an affirmative image, a sensible image, an exemplary image, a conscious image, and an active image. The demographic result based on the inner/outer image factors showed a significant difference in ages for a sensible image, a conscious image, and an active image.
A Study on the History of Princess Fashion and Its Socio-Cultural Implications -Focused on the Feminist's Viewpoint-
Kim, Sung-Bok ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 6, 2004, Pages 723~730
The purpose of this study is to speculate on the history and the meaning of so-called "princess fashion" based on the feminist's viewpoint. While many designers in Korean fashion world have fostered the trend of princess fashion, relatively little insight has been developed regarding its socio-cultural meanings. For this problem, the researcher traced the historical background and the development of the princess fashion in both the western and the Korean fashion world. As a case of the princess fashion study, Andre Kim(a renowned Korean designer)'s collection was selected and analyzed since he has often been a central figure for the princess fashion trends in Korea. Here the operational definition of the princess fashion is the lavish dresses designed based on the western court dress styles. As a result, the researcher found that the princess fashion was originated from the eighteenth century in France. In the nineteenth century, male designers took over the role to make extravagant dresses such as empire and crinoline dresses which became the prototypes for the princess fashion. In Korea, the western court dress style was introduced at the end of the nineteenth century and it became a uniform of prostitutes during the Korean War. By analyzing Andre Kim's collection, it is found that his romantic dresses imitated the nineteenth century court dresses. Therefore, from the feminist's viewpoint, his princess fashion is a mere reproduction of anachronistic styles reflecting inferior and passive images of women. The researcher draws a conclusion that today's fashion should transcend the princess fashion that signifies the female's submissive-masochistic roles operated by the male's sexual expectation.
A Study on In-line Skate Clothing Interest of In-line Skaters
Jung, Tae-Jin ; Yoo, Tai-Soon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 6, 2004, Pages 731~739
As the life styles have been changed in modern society and sports gave been emphasized for spending spare time and improving health condition, sports are regarded to lave a leading role to fashion as one of the prominent factors. This study is to analyze the gender-identity and how different levels of involvement in In-line skating affects clothing interests. 291 In-line skaters ranged in age from middle twenties to middle thirties were surveyed and measured for this study. MANOVA(multivariate analysis of variance), ANOVA(univariate analysis of variance), Cronbach
reliability, t-test, and correlation analysis were performed with SPSS 10.0 program on the selected data. The results of this study are as follow. There were no obvious differences in In-line skating clothing interests by gender of In-line skaters. There were, however, differences in the reasons for In-line skating, the hours to skate per week. Those whose purpose for skating was diet had more interest in style focused on expression. In case of skating for health, they showed interest in activity-functionality style and anti-deviation style. The group of In-line skaters who skated 15 to 18 per week gave more interest in activity-functionality style out of the clothing interest-factors. Those who had strong masculinity in gender-identity of In-line skaters were more involved in In-line skating. There were some differences in clothing interests according to gender-identity of In-line skaters. In regard of In-line skating clothing interest by involvement in In-line skating, those who had higher involvement in In-line skating had higher In-line skating clothing interest.
The Study on the Types of Hair Cut Designs based on the Face Measurements of Male College Student
Kim, Mi-Jung ; Lee, Sang-Rye ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 6, 2004, Pages 740~748
The purpose of this research is to observe the face types of types of haircut design that is the basis for the completion of a hair styling mainly with case of male college student. For the purpose of this, I carried out direct and indirect observation and measurement for faces of 293 male college student who attended universities in Busan, and measured face types which were classified by the group analysis preferred hair style in order to do actual hair cut design. The result of this research is as follow. This paper conducted the element analysis in regard to the direct and indirect items of face, and it pulled out 5 elements. As a result of group analysis with elements as independent variables, they are classified into4 types. For actual hair cut design, 4 types classified by group analysis and nearing models analyzed. This research bring accurate information classified face types.
A Comparison of Women's Basic Pattern Using 3D Scanner - Between the Bunka and the Secoli Patterns -
Choi, Young-Lim ; Kim, Hee-Eun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 6, 2004, Pages 749~755
This paper was conducted to compare the methods of women's basic pattern and the problems by analyzing the space between skin and clothing using 3D scanner and thereupon, proposed the solutions. The Bunka pattern of Japan Bunka Women's University(Bunka) and the Secoli pattern of Italy istituto carlo secoli(Secoli) were used. The subject who has nearly the same body size with N type of National anthropometric survey of Korea in 1997 was picked out. In the result of analyzing the space between skin and clothing of each pattern by 3D Scanner, there exist significant differences in the chest and bust parts. The Bunka has more space than the Secoli at bust part, especially between bust points. Because the Bunka has the bust dart which was made from only the bust girth, it couldn't reflect the difference of each human body. Whereas the Secoli has the bust dart which gave a consideration the difference between the bust girth and the chest girth, it has more even space between skin and clothing.
An Analysis of Size System and Patterns of Ready to Wear Basic Skirts for Middle Age Women
Lee, Jung-Soon ; Goo, Mi-Ran ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 6, 2004, Pages 756~764
The purpose of this study is to analyze of size and patterns of ready to wear basic for middle age women. For this purpose, I select 9 brands and analyze the basic skirts size system marketed in 2002 spring in Korea. To study the actual size system, I have compared size labeling, which I researched, with Korean Industrial Standard Size Chart. And I also have compared body measurement with the product size. To study the pattern, I have classified the composition of the skirt into 24 items. The different result shows between this study and Korean Industrial Standard Size Chart. The waist circumference is smaller than it should be, and the hip circumference is larger than it should be. As I have examined the body measurement and the product size, variability of the waist circumference depends on the location of the waistline. For the hip circumference, I have found that both the body measurement and the product size are same, or the product size is smaller than the body measurement. Both cases have been found to be over 67%. I have classified the analysis of the pattern into four components; circumference, relevance to waist line, dart, and length. For the waist circumference, the same size of the front and the back is 44.4%, and making the front larger is 44.4% also. In the hip circumference, the identical size of the front and the back is 66.7% and the larger size of back is 22.2%. Regarding darts placement, it is moved to the side lines from the middle of 1/2 of waist lines, dart intake was 1.3~3.2 cm, the length of darts is 7.2~12.7 cm.
Effects of Rapier Weaving Machine Characteristics on the Physical Properties of Worsted Fabrics for Garment (I) - Tension Characteristics & Loom Mechanism -
Kim, Seung-Jin ; Kang, Ji-Man ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 6, 2004, Pages 765~771
This study surveys the warp and weft tension differences among 3 types of rapier looms and analyses the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment with relation of these looms characteristics using KES-FB system. Raper is divided by two parts. In the 1st paper, the worsted fabric is woven as 5 harness satin weave using 1/40 Nm sirofil worsted warp yam and 1/30 Nm worsted weft yam by rapier looms such as FAST-R, THEMA-11-E and PICANOL-GTX respectively. The weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position and weft tension of 3 kinds of looms. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.
Effects of Rapier Weaving Machine Characteristics on the Physical Properties of Worsted Fabrics for Garment (II) -Physical Properties of Worsted Fabrics for Garment-
Kim, Seung-Jin ; Kang, Ji-Man ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 6, 2004, Pages 772~777
This research surveys the mechanical properties of worsted for garment according to the loom characteristics and fabric positions with relation to the warp and weaving weft tensions on the 3 types of rapier looms, which is previously surveyed in the 1st paper. For this purpose, the grey fabrics are processed in dyeing and finishing processes. The mechanical properties of the finished fabrics are measured and discussed with relation to the warp and weft weaving tensions of 3 types of rapier looms and the variations of the fabric mechanical properties according to the fabric positions are also surveyed for investigating the homogeneity of the tailorability and fabric hand.
Natural Dyeing of Silk Fabric using Gardenia Blue Dye
Kim, Sang-Yool ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 6, 2004, Pages 778~784
The natural dyeing of silk fabric with natural gardenia blue powder was investigated. The sum of K/S values was increased with increasing the amount of gardenia powder up to 20%,(o.w.b.). The proper time, temperature and pH for the dyeing of silk fabric with gardenia blue powder were 60~80 minutes,
and pH 4, respectively. The B and BG colors were obtained according to various mordanting methods, mordants and mordant concentrations. The various colorfastness were not improved by mordanting. The colorfastness to light was poor, but the colorfastness to dry cleaning and washing were good.
Dyeing Research of Silk Color Code for Efficient Color Management in Silk
Lee, Kyung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 6, 2004, Pages 785~798
Silk has always been coveted as the finest and richest of all fibers woven into cloth. The earlist woven silk fragments found to date come from the third century B.C. The filament created and spun into cocoon by the larva of the silk moth, silk was exported from China to Europe from as early as the third century B.C. Silk industry is export leading industry that guide national textile industry development after the 1960s in Korea. Korean silk industry reached to peak at 1975 is displaying appearance that export scale is decreased recently. Various kinds methods can be proposed for high value added in silk industry, the research about color is essential. The importance of color is increasing in modern textile and fashion industry. Color is important factor of textile and fashion industry because color affects strong influence in human's sensitivity. Silk fabric can give high added value developing high sensitivity color because dye ability is superior. In this study I planned the "Utility Silk Color Code 288" for efficient color management in silk industry. "Utility Silk Color Code 288" are attached the Munsell notation and dyeing data which can reappear the color when needed. This research constructs for insufficient domestic color infrastruction and expect that basic role to develop the competitive power for Korean silk industry.
The Study of the Dyeability of Brassica Campestris on the Cotton Fabric
Bai, Sang-Kyoung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 6, 2004, Pages 799~802
The dyeability of the cotton fabric with Brassica campestris extract was investigated. The colorant was extracted with methanol. Cotton fabrics were dyed at various conditions such as temperatures, concentrations, dyed times, and mordanting methods. The maximum wavelength of extract was 421nm. The highest K/S value was showed at 200% dye concentration at
, 45 minutes. As the effect of dyed temperature and mordanting on dyeability was not great, the Brassica campestris was one-color dyestuff.
Natural Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics Using Charcoal
Jo, Won-Joo ; Lee, Jeong-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 6, 2004, Pages 803~809
In order to activate the characteristics of charcoal in fiber systems, this was carried out to experiment with the particle size from two micrometers to ten micrometers of charcoal powders on cotton fabrics. The results obtained were as follows; The fabrics were dyed with gray colors by charcoal. The K/S values, that were indicative of the dye affinity, became higher as the increase of dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and dyeing concentration. Also it was confirmed the morphology of the fiber surfaces adsorbed with the particle size from two micrometers to four micrometers of charcoal powder by scanning electronmicronscope. The cotton fabrics dyed by charcoals generally recorded 3-4 degree of wash fastness, 4-5 degree of dry-cleaning fastness, 4-5 degree acidic and alkaline perspirations and water fastness. In connection with the functional properties, cotton fabrics dyed with charcoal appeared that antibacterial, deodorization, far infrared emissivity were improved. Especially the deodorization was improved greatly by using charcoal.
A Study on the Effects of Electroencephalogram of Blocking Electromagnetic Wave Materials by useing the Nano Silver
Lee, Su-Jeong ; Lee, Tae-Il ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 6, 2004, Pages 810~814
This study is one of the fundamental researches for the development of future smart clothing and textile products using silver(Ag) nano powder. Our study was focused on the blocking or insulating effects of nano-processed textiles from electromagnetic waves. Also, for the surveying of the actual effect to human body, we measure the variation of electroencephalogram which is an indication of human physical symptoms. Among various textiles in this experiment, nano silver processed case has shown the best blocking performance from the electromagnetic waves, which decreases depending on the distance. As a reference model of working environment, we setup the visual stimuli object on the computer that is a source of electromagnetic wave. The power spectrum distribution and the incidence of electroencephalogram was measured. The analysed data has shown that, with nano-processed textiles,
wave does not appear very often where
wave appears only to illustrate the stable states of human's body. However, as for the materials without nano processing, the ratio of
waves in the total level of electroencephalogram becomes higher in spite of short exposure to visual stimuli in work environment, which shows that the worker becomes stressed. The
wave electroencephalogram of all materials is drawn in calcarine fissure of occipital lobe to show the convergent distribution, and stronger with block-processed Nano Silver Silk(NSS). The study based on the potential risks of human diseases such as physical fatigue by electromagnetic waves, and has shown that the application of Nano Silver textile for human uses require a proper particle size of it which would not penetrate cellular tissues, and a proper binder and binding treatment for it. However, it is highly required for back-up researches to verify various aspects in applying nano silver to textile products.
Developing an Assortment Planning Process Model for Clothing Retail Buyers: An Exploratory Research
Kang, Keang-Young ; Kincade, Doris H. ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 6, issue 6, 2004, Pages 815~824
In academic and/or practitioner literature, the assortment planning for fashion sensitive products is rarely systematically studied, and organized in an objective format. The purpose of this study was to develop a suggested assortment planning model for women's clothing retail buyers by integrating a conceptual assortment planning model and a practical-use assortment planning model, which are also developed in this study. In developing the conceptual model, this research categorized and organized the pieces of assortment planning activities illustrated in available literature. In developing the practical-use model, ten women's dress buyers from department stores and specialty stores were interviewed. The contents of the interview dictation were classified and summarized by concepts and variables. The summary was validated by the interviewees and recontextualized for the practical-use model. Five experts compared the conceptual and practical-use models, adjusted the discrepancies, and integrated into the suggested model. In addition, a questionnaire asking review of all functional activities of the suggested model was sent to interviewees to ascertain its validity. As the result, assortment planning process was determined at abstract level as the following: (a) recognize problem, (b) search for information, (c) evaluate qualitative value of product, (d) evaluate quantitative value of product, (e) plan product selection, and (f) plan sales.