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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 7, Issue 6 - Dec 2005
Volume 7, Issue 5 - Oct 2005
Volume 7, Issue 4 - Aug 2005
Volume 7, Issue 3 - Jun 2005
Volume 7, Issue 2 - Apr 2005
Volume 7, Issue 1 - Feb 2005
Selecting the target year
패션 직물소재에의 오존 활용과 기대 효과
Lee, Mun-Soo ; Kim, Jung-Min ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 4, 2005, Pages 357~360
A Study on Intertextuality Expressed in Modern Fashion - Focus on 1999~2005 Paris Collections -
Seo, Kyung-Hee ; Choo, Tae-Gue ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 4, 2005, Pages 361~370
This study was intended to investigate intertextuality expressed in fashion; intertextuality within fashion as sex, T.P.O., texture, and coordination and intertextuality between fashion and other genre like animation, music, film and technology. Intertextuality obtained by mixing the masculine and feminine text, coordinating various element without regarding T.P.O., texture has contributed to expending aesthetic realm and redefining the aesthetic value of traditional fashion design. The influence of animation, music, film on fashion and the interaction between these genre and fashion integrated high-class fashion and street-fashion, created the multicultural hybrid. Moreover according to the change of lifestyle the fashionable technical clothing was needed and developed. The intertextual tendency in the 21st-century fashion has given the new possibility of fashion design.
The Utility of Function Expressed in 1990s Fashion
Ham, Youn-Ja ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 4, 2005, Pages 371~377
The purpose of this study is to consider 1990s fashion design involving the utility of function which is the essence of modernism. First, documentary studies about the aesthetic value of the utility of function throughout the 20th century sociocultural contexts has been done. Second, content analysis of articles in American "Vogue" from 1990 to 2002 has been accomplished to hold the actual proof for the utility of function in postmodernism fashion. As a result, the utility of function has been defined the utility of body activity, the utility of practical use, and the utility of mechanical product. According to contents analysis, new aspects has been introduced in use of high-tech fabrics, ornaments, and mass customization in 1990s. In conclusion, the utility of function in fashion has been improved in accordance with the change of sociocultural contexts and women's wants.
Menswear Design by Applying Paul Klee's Painting - Using CAD System -
Uh, Mi-Kyung ; Lee, Youn-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 4, 2005, Pages 378~386
Painting style has mostly affected the creativity of fashion design. The formative of shape and color shown in each painting has close relationship with fashion design. With use of ideas of artists, the fashion designers have made clothes having novel and creative designs. Since the society becomes more diverse and complex and the men's life style has been changed, the contemporary man expresses himself by fashion and he needs the fashion having emotionality and individuality. In accordance with the contemporary customer's needs seeking for the individuality of his own, the development of much more originative and differentiated cloth design by adapting arts to fashion designs is needed. In this study, therefore, the paintings of Paul Klee, who is the representative contemporary artist, have been used as man's dress shirts and jean pants. The paintings have been printed by CAD system. As a result of the adaptation of Paul Klee's painting to men's dress shirts and jean pants, a modern and creative design is developed. And also a new and differentiated design is achieved freely with use of the CAD system by changing the design, textile, and color ways.
A Study of Comparing Shamans' Costumes of the Central Region of Korea with those of Siberia and Central Asia
Lee, Ja-Yeon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 4, 2005, Pages 387~393
This study compares shamans' costumes of Korea with those of Siberia and Central Asia. It also investigates the meaning of shamanism and shamans,the relationship of Korean shamanism to shamanism, and the genealogy of Korean shamanism. For collecting and analyzing data of the research, literature reviews, field studies, and the investigation of historical relics are mostly used. The following are the major findings of the research: Through the comparison of shamans' costumes of Korea with those of Siberia and Central Asia, this research finds out some similarities and differences in the costumes. Both Korean shamans and Siberian and Central Asian shamans wore shaman's costumes and used utensils like bells or mirrors when they perform a religious service. On their costumes, they both used an element which stands for birds. However, they were different in terms of the materials or styles of the costumes, of the function of the costumes, and of the decorating with ornaments. The differences in the materials or styles of the costumes, different functions of the costumes, and using ornaments or not can be viewed as a general phenomenon, which is resulted from different environments. The soul's departing the body or the possession or a mixed method can be considered as mere variations due to regional or cultural differences. In conclusion, based on the comparison of the costumes of shamans of Korea with those of Siberia and Central Asia, the shamans of Korea and Siberia and Central Asia share the same origin. And the genealogy of Korean shamans can be said to be originated from the northern shamanism.
Uses and Characteristics of Korean Traditional Incense
Lee, Kyung-Hee ; Lee, Joo-Young ; Kwon, Young-Suk ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 4, 2005, Pages 394~400
The purpose of this study is to investigate historical background which uses and characteristics of Korean traditional incense and how to use it in clothes. Incense was at first introduced to Korea in the period of King Nulji of Shilla dynasty. First introduction to this nation, incense was already regarded as divine. It was then developed with five main uses, tribute, fragrance, purification, anti bacteria, and cure. Incense used by fragrance and anti-bacteria in clothes. It make emit a fragrance from the clothes or decorate clothes with ornaments. Incense was also to prevent clothes or books from being damaged by insects and maintain them over a long period. It used one of the factor for beauty of costume.
Characteristics of Female College Students Clothing in Campus with Fixed Point Observation - Focusing in Seoul -
Choi, Young-Soon ; Park, Mi-Ae ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 4, 2005, Pages 401~406
The objective of this field research is to determine consumer's fashion sense and provide helpful information to manufacturers when planning designs and merchandizing strategies. This study's purpose was to observe what was being worn, colors and tones. The method of research was fixed point observation using digital photos. The subjects of the research were female college students, 18-22 years old. The T-shirt has become the representative item for casual and comfortable wear by the female college students. Pants and blue jeans were worn more often than skirts as a lower garment. This shows that the students think about their activities when choosing a lower garment. The majority of these students chose clothing that functioned well for their school activities. Among students that wore skirts about half wore a functional knee length while the other half wore a more fashionable mini-skirt. These students appear to care about both fashion and function. Blue was especially popular, with 70.4% of all lower garments being blue. This effect makes the body look thinner and may be one reason why blue is so popular. White is a popular color as an upper garment. White upper garments are easily matched with any color, while blue upper garments coordinate well with similarly colored blue lower garments. The distribution of upper garment color is significantly influenced by the seasons. Blue jean tones were many and varied, while upper garments were mostly weak tones and bright tones of pale, light and soft.
A Study on One-Piece Dress Pattern According to the Somatotype Alteration of Women in their 20s
Park, Ju-Hee ; Hong, Jung-Min ; Yoon, Jin-Kyung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 4, 2005, Pages 407~412
This study is to establish the pattern for one piece dress which fits well to the women somatotype with different drop value and is functional and has high body fitness. Selected 2 testers from classified 4 types who were close to the average value and took twice dressing test. After successive correction and revision, patterns of one piece dress for each somatotype were established. M type ; Bust line is established to B/4+1.7 cm. Waist line is W/4+1.5+2.5 cm(dart amount) for front pattern and W/4+0.8+2 cm(dart amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+0.8 cm for front and H/4+0.8 cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.5 cm. A type ; Bust line is established to B/4+1.7 cm. Waist line is W/4+1.5+2.5 cm (dart amount) for front pattern and W/4+0.8+2 cm(dart amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+1.5 cm for front and H/4+1 cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.2 cm. X type ; Bust line is established to B/4+1.5 cm for front pattern and B/4+2 cm for back. Waist line is W/4+2+2.5 cm (dart amount) for front and W/4+1+2+1.4 cm(for two darts amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+1 cm for front and H/4+1.3cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.8 cm. H type; Bust line is established to B/4+1.5 cm for front pattern and B/4+2cm for back. Waist line is W/4+1.7+2.5 cm (dart amount) for front and W/4+0.8+2 cm(dart amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+2 cm for front and H/4+1.5 cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.8 cm. In order to achieve the objective evaluation on a new pattern in this study, the sensory evaluation for both Imwonja pattern and a new pattern in this study was completed. As a result of sensory evaluation, a new pattern of this study could accomplished a good appearance in reflecting characteristics of each types and could achieved the functional superiority than comparison pattern.
The Relationships Between the Extent of Women's Skin Care by Clothing Behavior and Self-Efficacy
Kim, Sun-Ryeong ; Yoo, Tai-Soon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 4, 2005, Pages 413~418
The purpose of this study was for the adult woman that provides the investigation, analysis, consideration of the relationship with clothing behavior and self-efficacy depends on their skin care grade. Data were collected from 477 adult females and analyzed by using frequency, dispersion analysis, ANOVA, t-test, Duncan test utilizing SPSS 10.0 program. The results were as follows: The younger and the more educated respondents were the better their skin care. Also, the more they spent on clothes, the more they spent on cosmetic products. For occupations, professionals were to have better skin care. It was expose that 20s and 30s are shown difference for all low rank leading persons except conformity in the midst of it is clothing behavior main point by skin care management degree, 40s appeared that difference is seen in interest, psychological dependence, aesthetics, management. It was expose that difference does not exist in liver that is clothing behavior main point by skin care administration degree in 50s. 20s appeared difference in general self-efficacy divination in self-efficacy, and 30s appeared that skin care degree is high as general self-efficacy and physical self-efficacy are high. It was expose that 40s and 50s are no difference of self-efficacy in between group by skin care degree.
Physical Characteristics of Disabled Women by the Cause of Disability
Park, Kwang-Ae ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 4, 2005, Pages 419~425
The purpose of this study is to analyze the physical characteristic by directly measuring the wheelchair using disabled women. The subjects were 103 disabled women of wheelchair used women and between 20 - 55 years of age. The result of this study is as follow. There was a remarkable difference in the physical characteristic of wheelchair using disabled women due to their cause of disability. The cause of disability was classified into the 4 groups; poliomyelitis, spiral cord injury, muscular dystrophy, cerebral palsy. Poliomyelitis disability generally had a large horizontal area due to their strong upper body. People with spiral cord injury disability was shown to have the largest height, cervical height, waist back length, crotch length, knee length, The group of muscular dystrophy disabled people have the shortest length of body and also lean. The cebral palsy group of disabled people has an average length and height size body. A comparison of anthropometric measurements of wheelchair using disabled women with National Anthropometric Survey Korea(1997) was significant difference. People with poliomyelitis disability was shown to have a larger waist back length, neck point to breast point compared to normal women, but stature, crotch length was shorter compared to normal women. People with spiral cord injury disability had a similar in the vertical area. The group of muscular dystrophy and cebral palsy disabled people was short and smaller in general compared to a normal woman.
The Basic Study for Development of Shoes' Easy-Order Prototypein 3D Virtual Reality
Lim, Ji-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 4, 2005, Pages 426~432
The health of feet is connected with individual's health and affects a man's activity. Shoes need to be designed to protect feet and to absorb the impact of land. Thus, design, comfort and economical efficiency are important factors of shoes. Consumers can choose suitable shoes for their feet in off-line shopping. However, in on-line shopping, because they can not wear shoes, compare to the off-line shopping, there are many problems in internet shopping. First, consumers can get limited information of shoes because they must search information of purchase without other's help. Second, because consumers can not get important information such as design, size and a comfort of wearing, they can not make a careful decision. Above these, the solution of user-oriented internet shopping is development of new type of prototype which is accessible to user and to offer visual information through 3D-virtual reality. The purpose of this study is to develpoment of shoes easy-order prototype so to reduce of internet shopping risk and offer to shopping convenience. Contents of the new prototype are as follows; 1. Consumers can print out a foot shaped plane figure and compare it to their foot. If the size of printed sheet is not proper, consumers can choose another size. Through this step, they can get their own size. 2. In 3D-virtual reality, consumers can get a various visual information. So they feel wearing comfort indirectly. It is expected that the result of this study would be an important case study to develop of shoes' easy-order prototype for a disabled person.
A Study on the Seam Strength and Resistance to Slippage of Yarns of Lining Fabrics
Uh, Mi-Kyung ; Park, Myung-Ja ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 4, 2005, Pages 433~438
Seven commercial lining fabrics normally used in a market were selected: plain-weave fabrics with polyester, nylon, rayon and acetate fiber, and polyester textured yarn, in addition, polyester fabrics with plain, twill and satin weave. Then seam strength, seam efficiency, resistance to slippage of yarns and type of seam destruction were examined related to endurance by textiles in sewing capability of the lining fabrics. In results, as tensile strength was greater, seam strength got greater, which shows tensile strength and seam strength have close relationship. Tensile and seam strength of acetate fabric were the least, but seam efficiency was the greatest. It presents that strong tensile and seam strengths do not show high seam efficiency at the same time. Various types of seam destruction have been shown. When tensile strength of the sewing thread was greater than tensile strength of fabric, fabric destruction was occurred before the sewing thread destruction. When tensile strength of the fabric was greater than seam strength, the sewing thread destruction was occurred. Resistance to slippage of yarns got greater as tensile strength of the fabric got greater. The plain-weave fabric, which tensile strength of fabric was smaller, showed the greater resistance to slippage of yarns than twill and satin weave fabrics. The stretch fabric revealed the optimal lining fabric with the greatest resistance to slippage of yarns.
A Study on the Change of Hand of Chitosan Crosslinked Cotton Fabrics(II) - Effect of Concentration and Molecular Weight of Chitosan -
Kim, Min-Ji ; Lee, Shin-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 4, 2005, Pages 439~444
This article describes the change in the hand value of chitosan-crosslinked cotton fabrics. The chitosan-crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by mercerizing process using epichlorohydrin(ECH), 2% aqueous acetic acid and 20% aqueous sodium hydroxide. It proposed that the crosslinking and mercerizing were performed with the mixture of four different molecular weight chitosan and ECH in a single step. Cotton fabrics were dipped in the mixed solution of chitosan and ECH, picked up by mangle roller, pre-dried at
, mercerized and crosslinked in NaOH solution and finally washed and dried. Mechanical and physical properties of the chitosan crosslinked fabric were measured on concentration and molecular weight by Kawabata Evaluation System(KES) and other instruments. As the concentration of chitosan solution increased, LT, WT, B, 2HB were increased. WT, B, 2HB, MIU, SMD,
were decreased when chitosan was depolymerized. On the other hand, RT was increased when chitosan was depolymerized.
Hand of the Fabrics treated with Chitosan-Polyurethane Mixture Solution - Case of Crosslinking by Epichlorohydrin -
Kwak, Jung-Ki ; Kim, Jong-Jun ; Jeon, Dong-Won ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 4, 2005, Pages 445~451
Up to the present, fabric finishing methods have been mainly employed for the application of chitosan. However, the coated chitosan acid salt is prone to be detached from the fabric during the laundering process. In order to improve the wash fastness, chitosan treated fabrics are being subjected to thermal curing. In this study, chemical crosslinking reaction by epichlorohydrin was introduced to improve the problem of the thermal curing. An improvement of the wash fastness is expected since the coated chitosan component on the fabric become insoluble by the introduction of the crosslinking. The demerit of the single chitosan treatment (inferior handle due to the excessive stiffness, etc.) was supplemented by the application of chitosan-polyurethane mixture solution. The mixture ratios were adjusted to 1 : 0, 1 : 0.25, 1 : 0.5, 1 : 1, and 1 : 2 for the chitosan/PU mixture. Physical and mechanical properties of the finished fabric specimens were measured using the Kawabata Evaluation System(KES), and hand values were calculated accordingly based on the translational formulas.