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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 7, Issue 6 - Dec 2005
Volume 7, Issue 5 - Oct 2005
Volume 7, Issue 4 - Aug 2005
Volume 7, Issue 3 - Jun 2005
Volume 7, Issue 2 - Apr 2005
Volume 7, Issue 1 - Feb 2005
Selecting the target year
인체 및 환경 친화형 천연신소재의 개발 동향
Choi, Jae-Hong ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 6, 2005, Pages 573~576
A Study on Fashion Design of Silver Age -Focused on Elderly Women's Clothing Design Preference : An Application of Delphi Method-
Chang, An-Hua ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 6, 2005, Pages 577~584
The aims of this study are primary data offer to silver fashion enterprise. In order to deduce design from diverse needs of silver generation, this study is required expert knowledge. For this purpose, this study applied two rounded Delphi method in which 31 experts. As a result, the following findings were obtained; From the previous studies, we found the physical changes of women in silver generation; i.e. the size of their waist and abdomen gets larger, their breasts are sagging, their limbs are thinner, upper body is bending, their height and weight get shorter and lighter. Their choice criterion of design of clothing is hide their weak points in body, youthfulness, moderate, and fashion style. Youthful design but patterns should agree with their body line so that they should be easily fit and look young. They like a jacket and pants set best regardless of spring or summer and as upper garment, they like semi fit, as pants, they prefer straight line of ankle length, and as skirts, partial elastic band and pleats, and the length of the skirts just cover their knees. This pattern in choosing their clothes represents they consider functionality as well as the aesthetics. Their preferred color for spring is lt/pink, lt/violet lt/green for summer, white and blue. Their preferred materials are wool/poly/spandex and cotton/spandex for functionality for spring, and for summer, linen poly and cotton poly seersucker for cool feeling and stability. In both top and bottom item, solid pattern follows small one in their preference on patterns, which shows that they are in pursuit of an elegant style. Our research based on this survey tries to establish what the fashion design for the silver generation should take into consideration.
Analysis on the Basis of the Characteristics Poststructural-Cognizance Expressed in Fashion Design(I)
Kwan, Jung-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 6, 2005, Pages 585~593
Diverse and complicated trends of fashion design which were initiated at the latter part of the 20th century have been evolving in the cultural framework of Postmodernism. At this point of time, Poststructuralism, with its aims to interpret and understand modern fashion design, is a new system of thinking that reveals the contradictory aspects of rationalistic Western philosophy and accepts uncertainty and disorder as they exist. The main purpose of this study is to examine the various theoretic systems and characteristic concepts of Poststructuralism, and supply a new cognizance frame to understand the processes of fashion design with free and varied notions of deconstruction and generation, in place of the former systematic and consistent interpretation of meaning. Concerning fashion design, analysis of theories and analysis of contents. By probing and examining deconstruction theory, 'I'-other theory, textual theory, and nomadic thinking, the concepts of cognizance are classified into Nonboundariness, Otherness, and Textualism. The theoretic foundation for this analysis and classification is supplied by Derrida's deconstructional philosophy, Lacan's mental analysis, Bartes's textual theory, Deleuze's change and generation theory, together with other theories of Poststructuralism. In analysis of theories, a cognizance frame is proposed that can categorize the concepts, derived from various theories of Poststructuralism, as traits expressed in fashion design.
Adolescents' Shopping Orientation and Price Perception According to Their Experience on Internet Shopping Mall
Lim, Soo-Yeon ; Na, Young-Joo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 6, 2005, Pages 594~600
This study investigated adolescents' shopping orientation and price perception according to socio statistics and their experience of internet shopping mall. We distributed the questionnaire to 411 high school students in near Seoul. In the order of high shopping orientation, they showed 'compare products', 'enjoy as leisure', 'shop loyalty', 'discount shopping', and 'brand shopping' orientation. In the order of high price perception, they showed 'economic', 'value', 'brand-quality', and 'price knowledge'. The higher in 'shop loyalty', 'enjoy as leisure' in the shopping orientation, the higher in the price concept of 'price knowledge'. Adolescents who have experience to shopping through internet shopping mall, have the higher enjoy as leisure, shop loyalty, compare products' in shopping orientation, and the higher 'economic, price knowledge' in price perception than those who have not. Socio-statistics parameters are found to affect adolescents' shopping orientation and price perception. Adolescents had average scores in 'shop loyalty', while they had high scores in 'compare products'. Thus, in order to have superior position in adolescent's market, detailed product specification and information are necessary to enhance their shop loyalty. Adolescents thought the price was economical, and they had less concept in 'price knowledge' due to their position. Unlike adults, adolescent's gender does not have effects on their 'economic concept. Male students also had high scores in 'economic concept' as much as female students did.
Standardized Body Type and the Suitability of Figures for the Twenties Women
Koo, Mi-Ji ; Lee, Jeong-Im ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 6, 2005, Pages 601~608
This research investigated the present state of the dress forms used by clothing manufacturers and proposed procedure to bring out the standardized body type and figure for women in twenties. The result of questionnaire showed chief pattern maker's thoughts that dress form should be differently made for each age group and should be more reflected the standard body than the idea body. The standardized body type was made from the standardized posture and size which were analyzed from the interquartile range(IQR) of 314 subjects. The standardized size could be verified as for the balanced body shape of twenties through making the standard dress form. The standardized form(S form) was compared with three kinds of forms(A, K and P) for investigating the suitability of forms. K form was very similar to S form, Educational P form and manufacturer's A form had quite big differences from S form at the important areas for making clothing. The side shapes of A, K and P forms showed differences at back bending, neck angle and hip shape from S form. A form was comparatively smooth and flat. This results could be used as the practical standard to improve the suitability of size and shape in the dress forms of manufacturers and educators.
A Study on the Relationship Marketing Process Model for Fashion Stores
Kim, Jie-Yurn ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 6, 2005, Pages 609~616
The purposes of this study were to investigate relationship marketing in fashion retail setting through literatures and were to set up a relationship marketing model which is suitable for fashion stores. In order to achieve the purposes of this study, concepts and properties of relationship marketing were studied through the previous studies. Relationship marketing research tendency in retail setting was examined and relationship marketing strategies of fashion stores were examined. As a results, relationship marketing process model for fashion stores was developed. The variables influenced on long-term relationship intention of fashion consumers may be relationship benefits, satisfaction, trust, and commitment. Relationship benefits might have an influence on satisfaction, trust, and commitment. Finally commitment might have an influence on long-term relationship intention. Also, Consumer buying characteristics and consumer relationship disposition might have an influence on relationship marketing process model for fashion stores.
A Study on Purchasing Behaviors of Budget-priced Cosmetic
Hyun, Jung-Hee ; Choo, Tae-Gue ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 6, 2005, Pages 617~623
The purpose of this study was to examine the consumers' purchasing behaviors of budget-priced cosmetics. Questionnaires used for this study were composed of 44 questions including 9 questions about budget-priced cosmetic purchasing behavior, 15 questions about satisfaction, 15 questions about repeat purchasing intention, 1 question about the reason of satisfaction or dissatisfaction, and four questions about demographic variables. Questionnaires were administrated to 317 people who were Daegu & Kyungpook region residents and had shopping experience on budget-priced cosmetics during 2 weeks from March 2005. Respondents' age was limited from 20 to 40. Data were analyzed by using correlation, crosstabulation analysis, and frequency analysis utilizing SPSS/WIN. The results were as follows. Consumers went to budget-priced cosmetics' shops 'for low price', 'for trial' and 'for curiosity'. The best purchased products among the budget-priced cosmetics were basic cosmetics, and the second purchased products were make-up cosmetics. 41.4% of the whole respondents answered that they spent 5,000~10,000won per one time visit, and 65% of those answered they visited once or twice per a year and once per two or three months. In this study a level of satisfaction for the entire products, consumers neither unsatisfied nor fully satisfied. For the question of the intention to repurchase for the budget-priced cosmetics, the respondents answered that they will not positively purchase again. A level of satisfaction and the intention to repurchase had positive correlations. The reason which consumers satisfied with the products was chiefly related to price and that which consumers unsatisfied the products was related to products themselves.
Purchasing Behaviors of Budget-priced Cosmetics According to the Shopping Orientation and Demographics
Hyun, Jung-Hee ; Choo, Tae-Gue ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 6, 2005, Pages 624~632
The purpose of this study was to examine the consumers' purchasing behavior of budget-priced cosmetics according to the shopping orientation. Questionnaires used for this study were composed of 57 questions including 21 questions about cosmetic shopping orientation, 32 questions about budget-priced cosmetic purchasing behavior and four questions about demographic variables. Questionnaires were administrated to 20 to 49 aged 317 women who have shopping experience on budget-priced cosmetics. Data were analyzed by using factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA,
-test, correlation, crosstabulation analysis, and scheffe test utilizing SPSS/WIN. The results were as follows. First, shopping orientation of cosmetics were classified into 5 factors: 'interest and impulsive purchasing tendency', 'price-oriented purchasing tendency', 'ration-oriented purchasing tendency', 'famous brand-oriented purchasing tendency' and 'brand royalty- oriented purchasing tendency'. According to the shopping orientation of cosmetics, the respondents were classified into 4 groups: 'passive shopping group', 'rational shopping group', 'active shopping group', 'neutral shopping group'. Second, when comparing each group's purchasing behavior of budget-priced cosmetics with shopping orientation of cosmetics, there was not significant difference in one time purchasing cost and the number of shop visits. In case of demographic variables concerning purchasing behavior of budget-priced cosmetics, there was significant differences in one time purchasing cost according to age, level of education and employment status. The number of shop visits had also difference according to age, level of education and monthly family income. Based on these results, marketing strategies for demographic characteristics of target market rather than the shopping orientation are needed.
The Effect of Make-up on the Self-Concept in the Female College Students
Kim, Jung-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 6, 2005, Pages 633~640
The main objective of this research is how they recognize the face appearance before and after the make-up, based upon the survey on the female college students of their 20s (221 College students in Daegu metropolitan City), who are very conscious about their appearance. In addition, it is to provide the fundamental findings, which are necessary to establish the appearance management of self-concept through the make-up. The results are as follows: About 78% of subjects are performing the make-up on daily basis or needs basis, and 91.6% of the subjects wanted to have more elegant and improved make-up. Comparing the self-satisfaction level before and after the make-up, the satisfaction level on their appearance has been very much improved to 77.2% after the make-up, while the level was 28.8% before the make-up. It has been found out that the purpose of the make-up is more appreciated in pursuing the self-concept, rather than pursuing the beauty. Also we revealed that they could achieve a certain level of psychological stability by improving each individual's social image. We also found out that the stylish and modern style of image contributed more to the satisfaction level of make-up, compared with the image of neatness, individuality, delicacy, or youthfulness.
A Study on Permanent Wave Form According to the Reductant
Bea, Young-Sil ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 6, 2005, Pages 641~649
This study is to make pH 9 reduction by adding NaOH to 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11% solution of thioglycollic acid, cysteine, cysteamin, to add it on helically winded natural hair and colored hair and leave them for 20, 40, 60 minutes, to add
oxidant for 15 minutes and to compare and analyze the wave form. This study showed the results of permanent using thioglycollic acid, cysteine, cysteamin. In the permanent wave form according to the kind of reductant, concentration, and processing time, there were a little difference between thioglycollic acid and cysteine. But cysteamine not only showed apparent difference but also formed strong and elastic wave. The permanent wave is affected by the diagonosis of hair, the choice of permanent solution and the processing time. Therefore the scientific diagonosis of hair is to be considered first of all. By choosing the kind of solution, the concentration and the processing time according to the results of hair diagonosis and wave form, we can prevent the lengthening and damage of hair.
An Analysis According to the Shape on Formative Attributes of a Face
Kim, Ae-Kyung ; Lee, Kyung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 6, 2005, Pages 650~656
The objective of this study is to analyze the formative attributes of face by measuring the shape and features of face. The faces of women in 20's were taken by digital camera and measured, then it has conducted a statistical analysis using a SPSS for factor analysis, correlation and cluster analysis. The findings are that it is consisted of six(6) different factors and it is responsible for 73.93%. In Factor 1 and Factor 2, it has explained the most significant factor to determine the shape of face. The result on cluster analysis is that it is classified into 5 groups and it is as follows. Attributes of each group is that Group 1 has a wide and long forehead, small and longish chin-line and chubby cheeks that represent polished and modern images, while Group 2 has small and longish forehead and chin-line that represent classical and mature images. On the other hand, Group 3 has a narrow forehead, small and longish chin-line and upward-style eyebrows that represents provocative images, whereas Group 4 has a shaped style that represent intellectual images and Group 5 has small and longish forehead and chin-line and cheekbones that represent polished and cute images.
A Study on Hair and Make-up Design -Focus on the Hair and Make-up Trend Since the 2003s-
Shon, Young-Mi ; Lee, Hae-Jung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 6, 2005, Pages 657~664
Man's search for beauty has been going on from prehistoric time until today, and the pursuit of beauty has been progressing, regardless of the times, as a human psychological desire. In the search for beauty, hair and make-up have been subjects of interest for a long time, but the development of designs for these two aspects are still behind compared to other areas. Therefore, this study aims to propose various new and creative hair and make-up designs and to suggest their possible development. Using existing literature, this paper studied the skin color and hair color of Koreans that had been studied in earlier papers. It also aimed to understand the hair color and hair color images that are suitable for each skin color, classify the modern hair and make-up trends into different images - natural, surrealistic, minimalist, and cyber look, and also analyze them. Actual hair and make-up were also designed based on these images. To depict the natural image, the make-up was made intentionally dark as the skin color; natural materials were used for hair decoration; brown and yellow were used for the eye shadow to express the natural and romantic image of autumn, in general. Second, in the work expressing the surrealistic image, the hair was creatively decorated with a collage of various objects; yellow, green, and red eye shadows and lip expression were used to visually achieve the surrealistic fantasy look. Thirdly, in the work expressing the minimalist image, hair style with bangs without any hair decoration was used; make-up colors were minimized as well, creating a generally simple image. Finally, for the work expressing the cyber image, metallic material decoration was used on a puff-up hair style; the cyber image was emphasized through the use of graphical elements in the make-up.
The Study of Thermo-physiological Responses with Near Infrared Lighted Garment at a Hot Environment
Kim, Seong-Suk ; Kim, Woo-Jong ; Kim, Hee-Eun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 6, 2005, Pages 665~672
The purpose of this study was to assess the feasibility and the effects of near infrared lighted garments on thermo-physiological responses in human body. Seven healthy adult men were recruited for this study. All subjects were informed the contents and purpose of this study. The experiment was carried out in a climate chamber of
, 60%RH with 'Rest', 'Exercise' and 'Recovery' period. The experimental garments consisted of briefs, undershirts(sleeveless), nightclothes, T-shirts, knee-trousers and socks. Subjects participated in two experiments, one was wearing near infrared lighted garments(NIR-O), the other was wearing regular garments(NIR-X). The order of experiment was randomized, and subjects wore experimental garments before 24 hours in order to benefit by near infrared light. Measurement items included rectal temperature (
), mean skin temperature (
), sweat rate, heart rate, oxygen uptake and subjective sensation. The results are as follows: As to the variation of rectal temperature and mean skin temperature, value of wearing NIR-X was higher than value of wearing NIR-O, indicating a significant level of difference (p<.001). Sweat rate under NIR-O and NIR-X condition were 575.35 g and 535.75 g, respectively. Heart rate value of NIR-X condition was higher than NIR-O. Oxygen uptake measured during experiment was the higher in NIR-X condition with significant difference (p<.001). In the subjective sensation, the value of NIR-O condition was higher than NIR-X condition without significantly difference.
Effects of the Rapier Weaving Tension Characteristics on the Surface Properties of PET Fabrics
Kim, Seung-Jin ; Park, Kyung-Soon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 6, 2005, Pages 673~679
This study surveys the fabric surface properties such as mean value of the coefficient of friction(MIU), mean deviation of the coefficient of friction(MMD) and mean deviation of surface roughness(SMD) due to warp and weft tension differences using KES-FB system. For this purpose, fabric is designed as 5 harness Satin weave using 150d/48f warp and 200d/384f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by Omega
rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and Vamatex-P1001ES
rapier loom by Vamatex Co.Ltd respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. The fabric surface properties according to the weaving looms are analysed with warp and weft weaving tensions. And also surveyed the difference of fabric surface properties according to the fabric positions such as center and each edge of fabrics for the sensitive garment. Fabric thickness was also measured and discussed according to the fabric positions such as center and each of fabrics with two looms weaving tensons.
Removal of Oily and Particulate Soils from Silk Fabrics
Lee, Jeong-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 7, issue 6, 2005, Pages 680~688
This study was carried out to investigate on the removal of oily and particulate soils from silk fabrics. Various kinds of solvents were used on the removal of two kinds of soils treated into the silk fabrics. The removal of oily soil was analyzed by liquid scintillation counting method, and the removal of oil and carbon particulate mixed soils was evaluated by measuring of reflectance on the surface of soiled fabrics with/without drysoap in solvent washing by Terg-o-tometer. The surfaces of fabrics were also observed by SEM before and after washing. The results obtained were as follows : oily soils were removed efficiently by various kinds of solvents regardless of kinds of silk fabrics in short washing time. The removal effect of solvents from the soiled silk fabrics were high in the order of isopropyl alcohol>trichloroethane>monochlorobenzene>ethylether>perchloroethylene. Oil and carbon particulate mixed soils could be efficiently removed by adding of drysoap in solvent washing. The removal of mixed soils were increased drastically with rinsing and increased drysoap. The removal of soils was more efficiently removed from degummed silk fabrics than from the raw silk fabrics.