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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 8, Issue 6 - Dec 2006
Volume 8, Issue 5 - Oct 2006
Volume 8, Issue 4 - Aug 2006
Volume 8, Issue 3 - Jun 2006
Volume 8, Issue 2 - Apr 2006
Volume 8, Issue 1 - Feb 2006
Selecting the target year
샘물의 구조성 발색과 바이오미메틱스 섬유
Kwon, Oh-Kyung ; Kouh, Jae-Oon ; Choi, Young-Hee ; Lee, Sang-A ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 2, 2006, Pages 151~155
Analysis on the Basis of the Characterstics Poststructural-Cognizance Expressed in Fashion Design(II) -Focus on 2001~2005 Prêt-á-Porter Collections-
Kwan, Jung-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 2, 2006, Pages 156~160
Poststructuralism gives us a clue to totally understand fashion design, which is in danger of difficulty and frivolous ambiguity caused by indiscreet creating and groundless interpretation of Postmodernism. In addition, it leads us to have a new viewpoint, which is freed from stereotyped past concepts and constraints, with regard to fashion design. The main purpose of this study is to examine the various theoretic systems and characteristic concepts of Poststructuralism, and supply a new cognizance frame to understand the processes of fashion design with free and varied notions of deconstruction and generation, in place of the former systematic and consistent interpretation of meaning. Concerning fashion design, present study employs a two-way research method: analysis of theories and analysis of contents. In analysis of theories, a cognizance frame is proposed that can categorize the concepts of cognizance are classified into Nonboundariness, Otherness, and Textualism, derived from various theories of Poststructuralism, as traits expressed in fashion design. In analysis of contents, 10 fashion designers are chosen who exhibit new works at every Pr
-Porter collection. Including 20 works that those designers displayed at Pr
-Porter from spring/summer 2001 through autumn/winter 2004-2005, a total of 200 works are analyzed.
A Study on Mordern Hanbok Design Applied by the Costume in Koguryo Mural Painting
Kim, Ok-Soon ; Jin, Kyung-Ok ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 2, 2006, Pages 161~167
The purpose of this research are to identify the nature of artistic beauty of Kokuryeo dresses and to apply the artistic beauty, formative uniqueness, and esthetic value of Kokuryeo in the modern Korean dress design for creation of new designs. Significance of this research lies in the fact that beauty of traditional dresses possesses highly valuable importance for application to modern fashion design processes. Kokuryeo dresses basically comprised of Yu, Sang, Go and Po, and contains within abstract beauty along with emphasis on geometric elements like dots, lines, and surfaces. Red, Black, Violet, Verdant and scarlet colors were moderately used against the mainly white canvas, and different colors were often used for the top and the bottom. Silk, Hemp cloth and Wool were used for different social levels or ranks, and from the wide variety of colors and patterns of the dresses, such as Round-patterns, Cloud-patterns and Vine-patterns, worn by the people illustrated on the wall paintings, it appears that various materials were used. Vertical hems, Yu (shirts), Sang (skirts), noblemen's dresses, kings' dresses, etc. from Kokuryeo tomb wall paintings were applied, and various dying methods, natural materials and sewing methods were used to recreate the unique features of Kokuryeo dresses in modern designs in an attempt to recreate the esthetic value of Kokuryeo dresses.
A Study on the Colors of Dancing Suits in Bosangmu, Cheomsumu and Heoncheonhwa
Nam, Hoo-Sun ; Kim, Soon-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 2, 2006, Pages 168~176
The court dancing suit, so-called 'Jeongjae suit', has been worn by court dancers on the occasion of the royal court's feasts or festivals such as auspicious events of a country, court banquets, and parties or receptions for national guests from foreign countries. The court dancing suits are divided into two styles; Dangak-Jeongjae style and Hyangak-Jeongjae style, depending on dancing styles. This study examined the change of the dancing suits of Hyangak-Jeongjae styles created in the latter period of Joseon Dynasty, such as Bosangmu, Cheomsumu, Heoncheonhwa, and discussed the thought of EumYang-Ohaeng(the cosmic dual forces and the five elements) that the colors of the court dancing suits imply. Generally, in the dancing suits of Bosangmu, Cheomsumu, and Heoncheonhwa, the color expression focused on the main stream of red, blue, yellow, white and black. The colors were mainly expressed in harmony between upper garments and under garments, outer garments and inner garments, a simple dress and its decorations. Especially, in the dancing suits of Heoncheonhwa, the purple color symbolized the auspiciousness of the Purple Palace where the God lives.
The Effect of Media on Taking Plastic Surgery
Yun, Chong-Hee ; Sung, Su-Kwang ; Jin, Ki-Nam ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 2, 2006, Pages 177~182
The purpose of this study is to examine the effect of media on plastic surgery experiment. Firstly this study try to find the relationship between exposure to media and other intervening factors(e.g., body image, self-esteem, fashion attitude). The data collected for this study was gathered through questionnaire survey with 443 female students in Seoul. The results are as follows: Using ANOVA, we found that those prefer the magazine over TV or Internet had positive body image, higher self-esteem, and positive fashion attitude(e.g., personality/self-expression, fashion leadership, sexual attraction). Using regression analysis, we found that the we found that the factors influence plastic surgery behavior are the exposure to magazine and the factors influence plastic surgery planning are the clothing attitude (especially fashion leading power, sexual attraction).
A Study on Social, Economic and Cultural Features of Luxury Brand Consumption -Focused on the Theory of Baudrillard's Consumer Society-
Park, Mi-Ryung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 2, 2006, Pages 183~190
The purpose of this study was to analyze social, economic and cultural phenomena of the luxury brand in the viewpoint that the consumption system of the modern society stood for the sign consumption and the industrial production of difference as Baudrillard mentioned in the Consumer Society. The result was divided into the two subjects popularization and differentiation of luxury brand. Firstly the meaning of luxury brand was that the personal effects of consumption of king or aristocratic class who did not exist in the modern and were made into the selection and consumption-possible things of exchange value. The popularization of this sign was accelerated through TV drama. Secondly as differentiation strategy of luxury brand, was made by giving meaning to the life style concept of the upper class with advertisement and design, and also the logo of design was used as sign differentiated from people. Also the reason why the producer of the luxury brand gave meaning to such life style was that the awareness of the brand which people have consistently makes them consume more products. The consumption system of the modern society stood for the sign consumption, difference sign mark value which was the desire on a social meaning basis, not the consumption of things as used value. And the consumer could express his personality by selecting and consuming the product of luxury brand model made with this sign. Accordingly the distribution, purchase, sales and acquisition of the things with this difference sign were our verbal activity and linguistic code today, and it was the essential feature of the society, culture and economy of the consumer society.
Difference of Perception and Preference of Color According to Time Passage -Comparison between 1998 and 2004-
Park, Hea-Ryung ; Shim, Kue-Nam ; Park, Mee-Ryung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 2, 2006, Pages 191~195
The purpose of this study was to identify the change of perception and preference of color according to time passage. The subjects were university students and for the survey 257 questionnaires in 1998 and 522 questionnaires in 2005 were effectively used to compare the perception and preference of color between the both period. The statistics was performed with frequency analysis and independent t-test in SPSS 10.0. The results were as follows. 1) Color perception according to time passage showed significant differences in red, yellow, green, and blue color. 2) Color preference according to time passage showed significant differences in red, green, and blue color. 3) Color perception among three regions according to time passage showed significant differences in red color in Seoul, yellow color in Seoul, Mokpo and Jeju, green color in Seoul and Mokpo, blue color in Seoul, Mokpo and Jeju, and purple color in Seoul. 4) Color preference among three regions according to time passage showed significant differences in yellow color in Mokpo, green and blue color in Seoul, Mokpo and Jeju.
A Study on Swimwear for Middle-aged Women
Jung, Heh-Soon ; Na, Mi-Hyang ; Lee, Young-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 2, 2006, Pages 196~202
In this study the swimwear pattern focused on a typical middle-aged women's body was developed and discussed. To determine the characteristics of a typical middle-aged women's body, their actual bust were cast. According to a generated flattened body surface shell, the right side of pattern was designed considering stretching ratio of swimwear materials as shown in the figure 3. Special features of the developed swimwear pattern are a bust dart, a particularly designed lining, a power-net, and a brassiere-cup. Against a commercial swimwear pattern, the darts were applied to bust area considering its volume. The lining was attached on the entire right side except brassiere part, and power-net was added twice on belly and hip part. As a result, silhouette and body shape were improved. The new brassiere-cup was designed and made to satisfy the middle-aged women's demand about their bust volume. Swimwear fitting test was performed, and it was evaluated. The developed swimwear rated activity, body support, entire silhouette, pressure, comfortable fitting, suitability with body figure, nudity higher by comparison with a commercial swimwear, as shown in the Table 6. Specially the developed swimwear satisfied future customers about a bust, a hip, a waist, a belly area, which the middle-aged women are not confident. Reducing exposure of an armhole and upper leg area, it also satisfied them. New developed swimwear pattern will provide useful reference to swimwear businesses targeting middle-aged women.
A Research Study on Construction Field Worker's Working Uniform
Kim, Seong-Suk ; Kim, Hee-Eun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 2, 2006, Pages 203~208
The purpose of this study is to examine the ergonomic working uniform. Developing a prototype uniform will be the first stage in aiming to create a working uniform in the construction field. This study was conducted using a questionnaire in the construction field of Daegu city, and the data was gathered from 121 questionnaires. Some of the questions that were asked, were about the case of putting on and removing the uniform and if any areas of uniform caused discomfort. The areas of the uniform that caused problems were the waist, knee, shoulder, arm and neck regions. The free range of movement of these regions were restricted and caused the person to feel cramped. The results of the questionnaire called for improvements to the knee, waist, shoulder and crotch area. The prototype that was developed offered more range of movement in the knee and crotch area, while not causing the uniform to be cramped too much during motion. The prototype also improved comfort by raising the waist line of back part, and by having the ability of the uniform to be tightened or loosened with zipper according to the persons preference. The upper area of the uniform was improved by dropping the shoulder seam line which enhanced comfort and also allowed a better fit for the elbow and wrist. The prototypes additional feature included a slit zipper in the sides of the trousers and a gusset in the under arm area to improve breathability and sweat elimination.
A Study on the Dressed Shapes of the Blouse with Short Sleeves and Sleeveless according to Arm Movement Using 3-D Scanner
Lee, Myung-Hee ; Matsuyama, Yoko ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 2, 2006, Pages 209~213
The 3-D information is useful as basic data which has been utilized in the development of simulating technology as fit-simulation. The experiment is designed to take some useful data on the variant shapes which contribute in simulating the adaptability of the clothes. The general figure of the clothes are made after the figure of the basic standing posture of the human body. The shape of the clothes fits with kinetic characteristic of the human body as the form of the clothes gets twisted, the ease of the clothes changes, and the clothes itself expands. We studied the dressed shapes of blouse according to two types of the arm movement(basic posture and reach forward) and three types of clothes(foundation, blouse with short sleeves and sleeveless) in the sit-down-posture. We accomplished some experimental data on three-dimensional measurement of the dressing shapes using TDS-3100 3-D scanner made in Japan PULSTECH. It is considered that the variant of shapes and distribution of gaps in the dressed shapes of blouse are determined by the adaptability of clothes made in arm movement.
A study of Beauty Make-up Using Computer Graphics
Kwon, Hyun-Ah ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 2, 2006, Pages 214~224
Computer graphics mean a reproduction of various information through image processing or the technology that is widely thought in makeup areas also, recently. Especially, Adobe Illustrator, unlike Adobe Photoshop used in image editing and correction, is software suitable for image drawing and reproducing beauty makeup. Beauty makeup is a work adorning human body to fit to the aesthetic standard in that period, and is a plastic art expressing shapes, colors and textures using design elements. Adobe Illustrator is a 2D graphics designing images using shapes having plane colors. In this study I studied techniques reproducing each element of contours and colors of beauty makeup through Adobe Illustrator CS. In other words, I have prepared a reference data by studying techniques reproducing beauty makeup using Adobe Illustrator CS. In this study, though, I couldn't try various things, because I limited facial contour and skin color to only one kind. Therefore, I hope, in the future, others can expand the ethnics of using Adobe Illustrator in more enriched ways by working on various facial contours and skin colors.
A Study on Formative Characteristic of Subculture Style in 20C Fashion -Focused on Hair Style -
Kim, Jeong-Mee ; Seol, Yu-Jin ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 2, 2006, Pages 225~232
This study purposed to review the concept and characteristics of subculture theoretically and then to analyze subcultural hairstyles shown in the 20th century's fashion in terms of form, structure, texture, design line and design principle, which were formative factors of beauty art. The range of this study was from the 1950's to the 1990's, during which subcultural hairstyles, which were selected for this study, kept a unique formality as subcultural characteristics of each time were reflected in hairstyles. The hairstyles found in subcultural styles were reviewed as follows. From the formative analysis as the above, it was concluded that layer form was seen most frequently in the subcultural hairstyles. This may be because it has a lot of layers in hair, and enables to make more various forms with a simpler care than other hairstyles so that it is easy to show one's own characteristic or differentiate oneself from others. Thanks to the characteristics of layer form, horizontal and convex were often seen as design lines. As for a texture, straight often appeared. The texture of straight is naturally formed without any care applied on hair. The reason may be that most subcultures refused artificiality. Therefore, the characteristics of subcultural hairstyles may be that hairstyles are transformed into various forms and created into the styles appropriately for individual tastes so as to clearly express one's own idea and thought.
The Chemical Structure and the Dyeability of Yellow Natural Dyestuff
Cha, Min-Kyoung ; Lee, Mun-Soo ; Park, Joo-Hyuk ; Kwon, Yoon-Jung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 2, 2006, Pages 233~238
This research confirmed the chemical structure of Curcumine and Carthamin pigments whose pigments were separated and refined from the Curcuma longa and Carthamus Tinctorious which were natural dye using FT-IR, HPLC and so on. The cotton and the silk fabrics were dyed using a main pigment and then this research obtained the conclusion as it follows. The curcumine, the main pigment of Curcuma longa extracted from the mixed solvent of acetic anhydride and methanol (
), had the maximum absorption wavelength at 504.0 nm and was confirmed as yellow natural pigment. The Carthamin, the main pigment of Carthamus Tinctorious extracted from the mixed solvent of dichloromethane and methanol, had the maximum absorption wavelength at 420.0nm. This pigment was confirmed as yellow natural pigment. The dyeing property of the main pigment about the silk fabrics was superior to that about the cotton in both the Curcuma longa and Carthamus Tinctorious, and the dyeing property of Carthamus Tinctorious was superior to that of Curcuma longa.
The Effect of Quality Improvement for Wool and Silk Treated with Protease Produced by B. subtilis K-54
Kang, Sang-Mo ; Cha, Min-Kyung ; Kim, Soo-Jin ; Kwon, Yoon-Jung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 2, 2006, Pages 239~244
For studies of fibrinolytic enzyme strain K-54 was isolated from the Korean traditional food chungkook-jang. Isolated strains K-54 was identified as Bacillus subtilis. The molecular weight of fibrinolytic enzyme from B. subtilis K-54 was 27 kDa. Optimum temperature for fibrinolytic enzyme of B. subtilis K-54 was
and optimum pH for producing the enzyme of this strain was ranging from 8 to 12. Also, it was found out enzyme activity was completely inhibited by 1mM PMSF. The result indicated this enzyme was thermo-stable alkaline serine protease with strong fibrinolytic activity. The wool and silk were treated with protease of B. subtilis K-54. As a result, the property of dyeing of wool fabrics was increased. By the increasing of treatment time became smoothened. But the change of mechanical properties were not changed.