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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 8, Issue 6 - Dec 2006
Volume 8, Issue 5 - Oct 2006
Volume 8, Issue 4 - Aug 2006
Volume 8, Issue 3 - Jun 2006
Volume 8, Issue 2 - Apr 2006
Volume 8, Issue 1 - Feb 2006
Selecting the target year
Naruse, Nobuko ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 3, 2006, Pages 255~257
A Study on Incense for Carrying and Decoration Used in Korea
Lee, Kyung-Hee ; Kwon, Young-Suk ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 3, 2006, Pages 258~268
The purpose of this study is to consider incense culture found in costume and life in forms of carrying and decoration. Here, incense for carrying and decoration is classified into two cases, using it as a costume accessory and life space. Hyangjumony, Hyangnorigae, Hyangjul, Hyangdae and Hyangseonchu were costume accessories. Hyangjumony was not only used for the royal palanguin, but also for bedroom. When Poetic Literature, and other ancient publications were reviewed in regard to incense for carrying and decoration, it was estimated that incense began to be carried for the first time before the late period of Shilla(9C). In addition, it was found that incense was not just a personal taste, but one of important gifts exchanged between states, envoys of different nations and between sovereign and subject and that incense was a necessary costume accessory for men. Types of incense for carrying and decoration used in this nation are classified into Hyangjumony, Hyangnorigae, Hyangjul and Hyangseonchu. Hyangjumony is a fabric pouch that contains incense. Hyangnorigae is Norigae whose main material is incense. Hyangjul is a string to which incense is hanged. Hyangseonchu is Seonchu whose main material is incense. Incense for carrying and decoration was based on five colors that symbolize cosmic order and harmony, of which red and purple were mostly used. Red strongly suggests expelling Yin with Yang, or exorcism. The color gives a strong impression, so it was often used to make a carried incense more decorating. Main materials of incense for carrying and decoration were gold, silver, precious stone and horsehair. They are different in characteristics, but were used appropriately for incense fragrance and decoration. Patterns mainly used for the incense had shapes of animal, plant, sipjangsaeng and letter. These were all auspicious patterns that symbolize human wishes and desires, especially individual and family happiness.
The Costume of Korean Envoys and Trading Goods in 1811 through Dong-sa-lok - Focused on Jeongsa, Busa -
Lee, Ja-Yeon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 3, 2006, Pages 269~274
The purpose of this study is to examine the costumes and trading goods of the Korean envoys in 1811. The findings of the study are as follows: The Korean envoys, as shown in literature, were dressed up three different types of costumes: Pyongbok, Gongbok, Jobok. They put on different kinds of clothes depending on the purpose of the events such as for ceremonial purpose or for traveling purpose. For traveling purpose, the envoys wore Pyongbok like Waryonggwan and Hakchangeui, which were commonly used as Pyeonbok in those times of Chosun era. For ceremonial purpose, they chose to wear Danryeong, Gongbok, Geumgwanjobok in this order following the order of the importance of the ceremony. The design of Jobok and Gongbok of Jeongsa and Busa were different from that of the early Chosun era. This difference in the Jobok and Gongbok demonstrates that Gwanbok has been transformed with the change in the general Po system in the late Chosun era. When the costumes of Korean envoys in 1811 were compared to those in 1711, there were similarities in terms of the design of Jobok and Gongbok, which indicated that little had changed for the period of 100 years. The most popular exchanged Byeolpok of Chosun was articles of clothing such as Daeyuja, Daedanja, Baekjeopo, Sangjeopo, and Baekmyeonju, while that of Japan was mostly objects of craftwork and a small amount of Po. The fact that cloth was one of the main items from the early Chosun era to the early 19C shows the highly developed clothing culture of Chosun era.
Shrouding Practices and Clothing Style in Daejeon around the Chosun-Japan War from 1592 to 1597 found in Excavated Clothes of the Region
Kwon, Young-Suk ; Lee, Joo-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 3, 2006, Pages 275~285
With these excavated clothes discussed above, the clothing style before and after the Chosun-Japan War from 1592 to 1597 can be summarized as follows. 1) Shroud was a clothes newly made for funeral or usually worn by the deceased. Shroud was mostly a unlined clothes whose adjustment was made in such way its left part was on top of its right one. Yeomeui, a clothes used to wrap up the body of the deceased or fill between the body and the coffin, was usually lined or quilted. Suryeeui was a suit sent by close relatives of the deceased or granted by the court. Mostly padded with cotton or quilted, suryeeui was used only for yeomeui. 2) The term of ching was used to count units of po and suits of trousers and jeogori during dressing the deceased for burial. If trousers and jeogori were not joined into a suit, they were not counted as ching. 3) Aekjueumpo, bangryeongsangeui, three-forked trousers and haengjeon for women were all clothes worn around the war. All these clothes were not worn after the war. 4) Several types of po which were discovered in Daejeon included danryeong, simeui, nansam, jikryeong, cheolik, aekjuempo, changeui and jungchimak for men and jangeui for women. Often, jikryeong, cheolrik, aekjueumpo and bangryeongsangeui were used before the war and changeui and jungchimak since then. 5) The git of jeogori had the style of mokpan git before the war, which was changed into that of dangko git through making the rectangular ege of mokpan git rounded in the 17th century. And jeogori became entirely small sized and the baerae line of sleeve became oblique. 6) In funeral rites of Daejon, simeui and nansam both of which were symbols of Confucian scholars, instead of official uniforms, were used as funeral garments. This suggests that funeral rites of Daejeon considerably reflected academic traditions of the Giho school meaning groups of scholars representing the region.
The Effect of Marketing Activities to Apparel Brand Online Community on Interaction of Apparel Brand Community
Hong, Hee-Sook ; Kim, Gi-Euk ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 3, 2006, Pages 286~294
The purpose of this study was to identify the effect of marketing activities to apparel brand community on interaction of the community. Subjects of 317 members for 9 selected apparel communities responded the questionnaire in the home-page or in the attached file. Data were analyzed by exploratory factor analysis, one-way ANOVA, scheffe-test. The results were as follows: Significant differences among three community groups classified based on the levels of interactions(interaction of company to members and interaction among members) were found in several types of marketing activities(award to activities, added services, conveyance of community's purpose and acceptance of negative responses) to apparel brand community. These types of marketing activities were operated in communities with high level interactions higher than in communities with low level interactions. Therefore, marketers need to operate these types of community marketing activities to increase interactions which can contribute members' satisfaction of interest, transaction and relationship needs through apparel brand online community.
A Study of the Purchasing Traits and the Wearing Satisfaction of Ski Wear
Kim, Soon-Boon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 3, 2006, Pages 295~302
The purpose of this study was to research the purchasing traits and the wearing satisfaction of ski wears to provide the data needed to design ski wears to the related industries. This survey was performed during 2003's and 2004's winter with the 157 questionnaires containing 16 items of purchasing traits, 8 of design satisfaction, 12 of purchasing satisfaction and 13 of satisfaction of using convenience. The data were analysed with the frequency, the percentile,
-test, the average, the standard deviation and t-test through comparing with the groups of general people and experts, and the groups of male and female. The results were:1.The most preferred style was the two pieces style(88.5%), and then the loose style(61.1%), and the shoulder-wireless style(36.9%). 2.The imported brands were more preferred because of the design(44.1%). 3.The main place of purchasing was the ski wear speciality shop(48.4%), the main source of the merchandise information was the surrounding men(43.3%), the most significant consideration aspect when purchasing was the design(35.7%), and the rate of size perception was 51.6%. 4.The wearing satisfaction score(5) of ski wears were; the satisfaction of design was 3.24, the satisfaction of material 3.00, and the satisfaction of using convenience 3.07. 5.In the rate of design satisfaction, the female(3.10) showed higher than the male(3.35) (p<.05). 6.In the satisfaction of material, 'the discoloration'(2.37), 'the abrasion'(2.75), 'the sense of volume'(2.76) and 'the sense of touch' showed dissatisfaction. 7.In the satisfaction of using convenience, 'the pollution by lifting ticket'(2.36)was showed most dissatisfaction.
A Study on the Marking Efficiency of Basic Slacks
Lee, Mi-Sook ; Uh, Mi-Kyung ; Suh, Mi-A ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 3, 2006, Pages 303~309
This study intended to compare and analyze marking efficiencies of basic slacks, based on different cloth and production conditions, the width of cloth, the number of marking pieces and the direction for marking deployment and proposed an efficient marking method. The results were as follows. On the whole, the marking efficiencies increased with increasing cloth widths. In the case of small number of marking pieces, the efficiency increased with increasing cloth widths, while, for large number of marking pieces, there was no differences in the efficiency with the cloth widths. From the result of the comparison of the marking efficiencies with the number of marking pieces, it was shown that, in the case of small cloth width, the efficiency increased considerably with increasing number of marking pieces, while, in the case of large cloth width over two markers, there was no distinct effect of the number of markers on the marking efficiency. Thought there were some differences of the marking efficiencies with the marker directions, bi-direction marker was the most efficient marker, followed by one-direction for each size marker and one-direction marker.
A Study on the Upper Bodytype of Male Sports Athletes for the Development of Bodice Pattern
Lim, Ji-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 3, 2006, Pages 310~316
Fitness of clothes becomes a major concern in apparel industry. But male sports athletes had difficulties to buy ready-made clothes of good fit. Because ready-made clothes manufactured in companies are produced accordingly to the general person's body types. To solve this problem, it is necessary to classify athletes' upper body into several kinds of somatotypes. The purpose of this study was to classify upper body types of male sports athletes based on the analysis of their upper body types and to provide fundamental data on the development of ready-to-wear clothing appropriate for the upper body types. The subjects for anthropometric measurement were 189 male sports athletes of 20 to 29 year-old. The result of factor analysis indicated that 6 factors were extracted from anthropometric measurements through analysis and those factors comprise 73.807% of total variance. 3 clusters were categorized using 6 factor scores by cluster analysis. Type 1 was taller than other types, had average size in circumference, width and thickness and was bending somatotype. Type 2 exhibits a large circumference in the upper body and straight somatotype. Type 3 was characterized by short, exhibits a large circumference in waist, abdomen and hip and swayback somatotype.
A Basic Study on the Product Development of Dress Forms
Cui, Ming-Hai ; Jung, Kyong-Won ; Nam, Yun-Ja ; Choi, Kueng-Mi ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 3, 2006, Pages 317~325
The purposes of this study are to examine clothing businesses which are using dress forms and grasp the problems in apparel manufacturing process, to verify the size and shape of the dress forms for uniformity, to ascertain the uniformity between the dress forms being sold today and the somatotype of the target consumers. The following results were obtained. First, most of the clothing businesses used the existing dress forms in the company. The dress forms didn't reflect the somatotype of the current consumers. And the users satisfaction was below the average. Second, the size and shape of the dress forms being sold today had lack of uniformity between themselves. Third, the dress forms didn't reflect the shape characteristics as well as the size of the target consumers. Consequently, The dress forms need to have the following. First, It is necessary that the dress forms have various functions in a dress form in the future. Second, to get high satisfaction of clothing fit, we need to build up the data base of the consumers somatotype. The data base have to consist of not only circumference but also width, thickness, angle of the current consumers. Last, the further studies of the dress forms need to meet the clothing businesses demand.
The Whitening Effect and Functional Machanism of 1-(2-cyclohexylmethoxy- 6-hydroxyphenyl)-3-(4-hydroxymethylphenyl)-propenone
Choi, Hyun-Sook ; Woo, Mi-Hee ; Choi, Jeong-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 3, 2006, Pages 326~330
The results of the research for the whitening effect and functional machanism of 1-(2-cyclohexylmethoxy-6-hydroxyphenyl)-3-(4-hydroxymethylphenyl)-propenone are as follow : 1. Propenone inhibited concentration-dependently the generation of melanin increased by the stimulation of
-MSH and protoporphyrin IX, and
value was six to eight
. This was five to seven times superior in the inhibiting effect, compared with kojic acid used as positive control group. 2. Propenone did not have a decolorizing effect on melanin already generated. 3. Propenone was observed to have toxicity of over
for the mouse melanoma B16 cells.
Efficiency of Essential oil about the Skintroubles induced Surfactants - Palmarosa, Neroli essential oil -
Jung, Hyun-Mee ; Choi, Jeung-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 3, 2006, Pages 331~335
The effectiveness of Palmarosa and Neroli essential oil on dry skin of rat induced by kitchen detergent are investigated. The experimental groups were divided the control group (C), group treated with surfactant (A1), group treated with Palmarosa (A2), group treated with Neroli (A3), group treated with Palmarosa and Neroli (A4). The protein analysis of all experimental groups was performed with SDS polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis and observation of epidermis and the alteration of mast cell were performed with photomicroscope. According to the protein analysis, the A3 group treated with Neroli essential oil was appeared the most similar with the control group. And then the A4 group treated with Palmarosa + Neroli essential oil was appeared the most similar with the control group. According to the results of morphologic view with keratin layer, the keratin layer's breakaway resulting from Palmarosa essential oil, the keratin layer's restoration resulting from Neroli essential oil was appeared. And then the structure of the epidermal layer was preserved by hyperkeratosis reaction. In photomicrosopic obersevation of mast cell to examine the inflammatory reactions, the increase in size and number of mast cell were showed in A1 group treated with surfactant compared to the control group (C). The number of mast cells definitely decreased in groups (A3, A4) which were treated with Neroli essential oil.
The Effect of Media on Taking Make-up and Hairdressing Bahavior
Yun, Chong-Hee ; Jin, Ki-Nam ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 3, 2006, Pages 336~342
The purpose of this study is to analyze the effect of media on makeup and hairdressing behavior. The data collected for this study were gathered through questionnaire survey with 443 female students in Seoul. The first study focus is on makeup behavior. The ANOVA test reveals that those exposed to magazine show higher level of concern with makeup compared to those exposed to other types of media. Using logistic regression method, we find that those exposed to magazine or those with positive body image are more likely to take makeup course. The next focus is on hairdressing behavior. The ANOVA test reveals that those exposed to magazine show more frequent use of hair salon. They also spend more money on hairdressing. The regression analysis also shows that those exposed to magazine or those with sexual attraction visit hair salon more frequently than others.
A Study on Dyeing of Gray Tone Utilizing Green Tea
Shin, Nam-Hee ; Kim, Sung-Yeon ; Cho, Kuyung-Rae ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 3, 2006, Pages 343~348
This study aims to attain gray tone dyed goods by using tannin that is contained in green tea. Tannin is given general name of polyphenol, which has a characteristic that bonds with protein and it is used for food preservative that protects against bacteria, as well as its purpose of black tone dye for silk treatment that has been processed since its early ages. In particular, as tannin reacts with all kinds of metallic mordant and changes to various colors, when tannin acid is combined with iron, it becomes tannin steel and produces gray tone color. Tannin that is contained in green tea is condensed tannins and its structure does not hydrolyze, thus having flavan type structure. In order to find the suitable condition for processing tannin, UV-Vis part absorption spectrum of green tea tannin, dye ability based on temperature and time, reflection rate based on concentration, color changes based on acid treatment and alkali treatment, changes on surface based on concentration or metal mordant condition, and lightfastness were measured. Maximum absorption wavelength (
) of green tea tannin was at around 273nm, while strong absorption was also observed at below 350 nm. Dye ability of green tea tannin is done more easily on silk rather than cellulose fibers such as cotton, while the optimum condition for dyeing was observed to be at
, for 20 minutes. As a result of acid treatment, the color of dye material consisted highly of gray tones and showed overall gray tone with the combined color of yellow and red after the alkali treatment. While it was observed that as dye concentration and metal mordant concentration increased, the color changed at counter-clockwise direction on the Y-scale of Munsell's scale of colors. Additionally, lightfastness was more on a normal fading.
Thermophysiological Responses and Subjective Sensations when Wearing Clothing with Quickly Water-Absorbent and Dry Properties Under Exercise-Induced Heat Strain
Lee, So-Jin ; Park, Shin-Jung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 3, 2006, Pages 349~356
The purpose of this study was to compare the thermophysiological responses and subjective sensations of clothing materials with different water transfer property investigated in exercising and resting subjects at an ambient temperature of
and a relative humidity of 40%. Two kinds of clothing ensemble were tested: 100% cotton with highly water-absorbent but slowly dry properties(C) and 100% polyester with quickly water-absorbent and dry properties by four capillary channels(QADP). Seven apparently healthy male participants each undertook two series of experiments comprised 10-min of rest, 20-min of exercise with 70% of
on a treadmill and 20-min of recovery. Mean skin temperature was significantly lower in QADP than in C during exercise and recovery. Clothing microclimate temperature was significantly lower in QADP during exercise and clothing surface temperature was also lower in QADP especially during recovery. Also, clothing surface humidity was significantly higher in QADP after the later half of exercise. The concentration of blood lactic acid tended to decrease to a lower level at recovery 3 minutes when wearing QADP rather than C clothing ensemble. Metabolic energy was marginally significantly less during the second half of exercise in QADP. Body mass loss tended to be greater in C than in QADP. The participants had better scores in thermal sensation, comfortable sensation and wetness in QADP during exercise and recovery. These results show that functional materials with quickly water-absorbent and dry properties can alleviate heat strain and induce more comfortable clothing microclimates and subjective sensations in the exercise-induced hyperthermia.
A Study on the Mechanical and Hand Properties of the Lining Fabrics
Kim, Myung-Ok ; Uh, Mi-Kyung ; Park, Myung-Ja ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 3, 2006, Pages 357~362
This study is to evaluate the objective sensibility of the commercial lining fabrics. Five kinds of the linings were collected by adding taffetas with four kinds of fibers (polyester, nylon, rayon, and acetate) to one polyester stretch fabric. The six basic mechanical and hand properties were studied by using KES-FB system (Kawabata Evaluation System). The result of measuring the mechanical properties shows that polyester has high bending rigidity (B), that polyester-stretch has a high value of linearity of load-extension curve (LT), tensile energy (WT), tensile resilience (RT), and coefficient of friction (MIU) and a low value of bending rigidity(B), shear property, and geometrical roughness (SMD). The nylon has a high value of bending rigidity (B), shear property, and compression resilience (RC). The rayon has a high value of coefficient of friction (MIU) and linearity of compression-thickness curve (LC) and a low value of shear property, and the acetate has a low value of shear property. The result of hand value shows that polyester, nylon, and acetate are a high value of KOSHI (stiffness), NUMERI (smoothness), and FUKURAM (fullness & softness), and they feel stiff and massive, that rayon has a low value of NUMERI and FUKURAMI. The total result of hand value shows that polyester taffeta and polyester stretch fabric are about the same as the best material for the lining of a woman's dress for spring and summer, and the next thing is acetate, but nylon and rayon are somewhat inferior materials. This provides a fundamental data for the comfortable clothing production of a higher value-added product through the study on the mechanical and hand properties of the lining as well as the right side of fabrics.
The Effect of Number of Twists of Lyocell Yarns on Compression Property and Abrasion Resistance Blanket Fabrics
Song, Min-Kyu ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 3, 2006, Pages 363~369
In this the study, Lyocell fabrics for blanket were developed to get high value added goods for elder and Infant. Therefore, the purpose of the study was determine the effect of twist per inch on the physical properties of developed fabrics, including compression property and abrasion resistance on the process for making Lyocell combined yarns. For comparison, commonly used cotton blanket was used. The results were as the follows: 1) Dimensional changes of Lyocell fabrics was in -3% which value was pretty stable, and antistatic property was very good with 10V of electric propensity voltage which means there was no static electricity at all. Pilling property of Lyocell fabrics showed 3 grade which was good and air permeability and moisture vapor transmission rate of Lyocell fabrics were higher than those of cotton fabric and keeping warmth rate of Lyocell fabrics was about 50% which means it very warms. 2) Twist per inch of Lyocell combined yarns increased with tensile strength and elongation of Lyocell fabrics. 3) Twist per inch of Lyocell combined yarns increased with decreasing thickness reduction rate and therefore, compression property of those was pretty good. Specially, compression property of Lyocell fabrics made with yarns of 3.9TPI was better than those of cotton fabric. 4) Twist per inch of Lyocell combined yarns increased with abrasion resistance of Lyocell fabrics.