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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 8, Issue 6 - Dec 2006
Volume 8, Issue 5 - Oct 2006
Volume 8, Issue 4 - Aug 2006
Volume 8, Issue 3 - Jun 2006
Volume 8, Issue 2 - Apr 2006
Volume 8, Issue 1 - Feb 2006
Selecting the target year
Review of a Research Program in Apparel Sizing and Fit
Ashdown, Susan P. ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 5, 2006, Pages 493~495
Clothing Design Preference of Silver Generation Women - Focus on Age 60 and More -
Chang, An-Hua ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 5, 2006, Pages 496~504
This study was conducted for silver generation women, age 60 and more. Questionnaire was answered by the total 291 of women. Frequency analysis, t-test, ANOVA and Duncon-Test have been completed by using SPSS 12.0 tool. The conclusion of the study is below. First, silver generation women live in Seoul and South Gyeongsang Province. The data shows huge academic background gab among regions. Second, the following is the preferences found by 15 stimulants which expert groups identified based on demography. People in South Gyeongsang Province like default, tailored, three-button jacket more. People in South Gyeongsang Province prefer to Chanel jackets and people in their 70s prefer to it than in 60s, stand collar casual jacket for color and material, and the less they are educated, the more they like the jackets. And those who have less personal expenses tend to prefer to it. South Gyeongsang Province shows preference for semi polo-neck sweater. Highly educated did not show any preference for it. Women in their 70s tend to like blouses with round neckline. The data shows there is significant difference of preference for design, color and material for coloration vest between education levels. The less educated tends to like it. People in South Gyeongsang Province and those who live with their children are in favor with half sleeve jackets for colors and materials. All in Seoul and South Gyeongsang Province do not like three-quarter-length sleeve jackets because those jacket have wide and deep plunging neckline. The study showed people living in Seoul, in their 60s, highly-educated tend to favor polo shirts significantly. Seoul favor basic straight pants and people with any level of education excluding elementary prefer to it. The highly-educated and those who have a bigger allowance tend not to prefer to baggy trousers. In conclusion, Fifteen incentives (clothing design) for semi polo-neck sweaters, polo t-shirts, basic straight pants are more proper to silver generation women in their 60s, living in Seoul. Other designs are desirably applicable to customers on a national scale at middle prices.
The Development of Fusion Textile Design by Using the Patterns Described in Buncheong Pottery and Mondrian's Works
Jung, Jin-Soun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 5, 2006, Pages 505~512
Today a new culture called fusion has been forming. And it is spreading at an alarming rate in our society. When people talk about the character of Korean beauty and Korean culture, they speak taking pottery as an example. We can speak that the pottery is a core of culture which represent our people. And I think its pattern can be a good material for fusion. Also, among many Western artists, Mondrian is an unique painter who is to do with our culture. So, in this study, I chose the patterns described in Buncheong pottery and the Mondrian's works for the development of fusion textile design. Patterns expressed on Buncheong pottery are, for the most part, abstract patterns simplified the shape of object. And the Mondrian's works is the geometrical abstract painting be made by vertical and horizon. Using those I intend to develop the fusion textile designs which mixed Oriental culture and Western culture. Also, I intended to simulate them on ties and clothes and present the possibility of culture merchandise development. The reasons for doing so to let other peoples of the world, know about our excellent culture.
The Characteristics and Meanings of Masculine Factors in Women's Fashion
Choi, Jung-Hwa ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 5, 2006, Pages 513~522
The purpose of this study was to analyze characteristics and meanings of the masculine factors related with power images in women's fashion since 2000. The method of study was to analyze the documentary about the power images since the 14th Century and then the fashion magazines since 2000. The results of this study were as follows: The power image of women's fashion was internalized by wearing of the masculine factors each of an era. After 2000, characteristics of women's fashion affected by masculine factors were an exaggeration of scale, deformation, inharmonious collage and changeful borrowing. They showed the structure of new cognition of modern society uncertainty, open and decentralized. And power images presented aesthetic characteristics such as independence, ideal, sign of a amusement and decentralized virility. In conclusion, power in women's fashion has a function of creativeness, product, positiveness from past to modern. In addition, the power, which is a symbol of perfection, rationality and ideal beauty, expresses a good feeling of psychology, social friendship, value of success and will be existed as a meaningful esthetic sign in women's fashion.
The Costumes of Asuka-Nara Period of Japan based on the Clothing law - Focusing on the Ruling classes -
Lee, Ja-Yeon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 5, 2006, Pages 523~529
The purpose of this study is to investigate the costumes of the ruling class in the Asuka-Nara Period by looking at the change in the clothing law of the era. During the Asuka-Nara period, various cultures such as Buddhism, architecture, sculpture, paintings, music, and so on were introduced through vigorous exchange with Chosun and Tang. Contrary to the primitive-Kohun Period, the regulation about costumes was enacted as law in the Asuka-Nara Period this fact tells us that there was high interest in clothing. Frequent reorganization of clothing law had to do with the rank system of Japan as well as with the exchange with other countries. The clothing law of Asuka-Nara Period was mostly consisted of the regulations about costumes of the ruling class including the royal family and government officials. The law regulated different coronet and color for the clothing depending on the different rank of the government officials. The more classified the rank was, the more varied color was used. In addition, there was a variety in the costumes system; 2 piece clothing of the Kohun Period was continuously used while new types of clothing were also introduced. The royal family members and government officials wore different types of clothing such as Yebok, Jobok, and Jebok, depending on time, place, or the purpose of occasion. The costumes of this period could be inferred from the analysis of the relics.
Purchasing Intentions toward Originals and Counterfeits - Foreign Fashion Luxury Brands -
Park, Hye-Jung ; Jeon, Kyung-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 5, 2006, Pages 530~536
The purpose of this study was to classify the clusters based on two behavioral intentions toward purchasing originals and counterfeits of foreign fashion luxury brands and to examine the differences in personality characteristics and demographics. This study included attitude toward counterfeit, consumer ethnocentrism, materialism, and need for uniqueness as personality characteristics and gender, monthly household income, and pocket money as demographics. Data were gathered by surveying university students living in Seoul metropolitan area using convenient sampling, and 320questionnaires were used in the statistical analysis. In analyzing data, cluster analysis, x-test, and One-way ANOVA were conducted. As a result of the cluster analysis based on two behavioral intentions toward purchasing originals and counterfeits, four groups were identified. There were significant differences in attitude toward counterfeit and materialism according to the purchasing intention clusters. x-tests also showed there were significant differences between the number of male and female subjects in each of the four clusters. Females are significantly more represented than females in all four clusters.
A Study on the Behavior of Body Piercing According to Body Piercer's Feeling of Depression to a Sex Role Identity, Self-Conception and Self-Strength
Yoon, Kyoung-Bin ; Yoo, Tai-Soon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 5, 2006, Pages 537~544
The purpose of this study is as well as Body decoration is a means to identify self-expression from the original nature of an individual freedom and originality, so there remains a race has not a cloth on, but there is no race does not pierce, it has been done with the beginning of a mankind. Subjects for this study were 202 persons, who experienced body piercing with twenties as the central figure. Statistical analysis was done by using SPSS 10.0 version and included AVOVA, Cronbach
realbility, Multiple Regression Analysis, Duncan's multiple range test, and Cross tabulation analysis. The result are as follow, The difference of self-conception classified by body piercer's sex distinction did not show significantly. Of the body piercer's feeling of depression to a sex role, neuter gender's feeling of depression showed highly in case of the physical self and the moral self and in case of the social self neuter's feeling and feminine gender's feeling to a sex role showed high. For the reason why he/she did body piercing, neuter gender's feeling showed high in case of influenced by the fashion and masculine gender's and feminine gender's feeling showed high in case of influenced by the curiosity. The body decoration classified by self-conception of body piercer did not show a significant difference.
Effects of Shopping Value on Store Choice Behavior for Golf Wear
Park, Eun-Joo ; Pyo, Hee-Soo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 5, 2006, Pages 545~551
The purposes of this study were to examine the conceptual structure of shopping value, evaluative criteria of golf wear and store choice behavior, and to investigate the effect of shopping value and evaluative criteria of golf wear on store choice behavior. Data were obtained from 415 men and women aged 20-60 who had purchased golf wears living in Busan. The results of the study were as follows: Shopping value were composed of Hedonic shopping value and Utilitarian shopping value, and evaluative criteria of golf wear were consisted of Size/design.quality, Fitness/appropriateness of use, and Fashionability/brand. Stores choice behavior were composed of Atmosphere/salesperson, Diversity of product/service, Display/assortment, and convenience of location. Hedonic consumers tended to consider the price and display/assortment when they chose golf wear stores, and they were more likely to consider display/assortment mediated by fashionability/brand. But utilitarian consumers perceived less important diversity of product/service when they chose golf wear stores. Consumers who chose golf wear depending on fittness/design and quality patronaged stores offering diverse product/service.
Development of Jacket Bodice Pattern for Elderly Women Using 3D Pattern Design System
Suh, Chu-Yeon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 5, 2006, Pages 552~561
This study was conducted to suggest an appropriate jacket bodice pattern for elderly women by comparing the developed pattern with existing ready-made jacket pattern. The developed jacket bodice pattern was produced from the basic sloper in which elderly women's somatotype was fully reflected, by using the newly developed 3D pattern design system. Subjects were 6 elderly women aged from 60 to 69 who have average somatotype in their age group. This study carried out pattern analysis and self-sensory test with three ready-made jackets(national brands) and suggested a developed jacket pattern based on the results. According to the self sensory test results of ready-made jacket, wearing fitness among brands was significantly different even though those brands were same B91 size. The results of ready-made jackets' pattern analysis, size differences among patterns have influenced wearing fitness. The basic numerical formula for the jacket pattern considered elderly women's somatotype were as follows;
(difference of front and back),
(difference of front and back), H/4+2~7(ease amount), armhole depth B/4, chest width B/6+1, back width B/6+3 and back neck width B/12+0.5. According to the results of the developed jacket's appearance evaluation, it earned higher scores in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that the developed jacket is appropriate for the elderly women. Also, in the evaluation on space length, the developed jacket pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length in all around of measurement parts.
Formative Application using Stitch Transfer Knitting Structure - Focused on Making Process of Women's Knitwear -
Kim, Seong-Dal ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 5, 2006, Pages 562~570
Knit industry requires versatile knit designers who have to control whole process such as material select, color, type of machine, technique, structure and shape. In other words, knit designers urgently need to interplay between technology and design aesthetics. It becomes essential to learn and master basic principles of knitting in order to design and develop effectively for innovative knitwear design. The main purpose of this study is to show fresh methodology through examining the various applications of 'Stitch transfer knitting structure' used in women's knitwear design development. Stitch transfer knitting structure is one of the most popular techniques among various basic knitting methods. Eight knitwears were designed and produced with various types of formative applications which differ from existent stitch transfer knitwears of flat and simple style in the market. These are produced by computer knitting machine 'Shima Seiki 122S' and programmed by 'Knit CAD' software. Among various basic stitch transfer pattern, 'Leaf' pattern is selected as a most effective example for this study. This fabric applied to collar, sleeves, body pattern and accessories as formative decoration. It is expected that this study of methodology helps to get open mind and to indicate possibility to develop and show creative and innovative knitwear and knitted textile design.
Biochemical Properities, Isolation & Identification of the Propionibacterium acnes Picked from Acne Lesion
Lee, Kyung-Suk ; Choi, Jeung-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 5, 2006, Pages 571~576
Thirty P. acnes were isolated from the 30 acne patients who visited some skin care shops from Feburary of 2001 to August of 2001. They were identified by morphological features (gram stain), biochemical properties. Only P. acne strains are isolated among Propionibacteria sp. and biochemical properities of P. acnes were not different from P. acnes ATCC 11827 strain significantly. The results of the biotyping was as follow: twenty three strains of biotype I from comedone, 1 strain of biotype II from pauple, 5 strains of biotype III from pauple and pustule, and 1 strain of biotype IV from pauple were isolated respectively.
Preparations of the Cross-linked Chitosan Based on a Marine Natural Product with Epichlorohydrine for the Exclusion of Heavy Metal Ions from the Various Wastewater and Its Effect of Crosslinking Ratio
Park, Young-Mi ; Jeon, Dong-Won ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 5, 2006, Pages 577~584
The binding of heavy metal ions onto cross-linked chitosan in dilute aqueous solution has been investigated as a function of pH (4.0 and 7.0), agitation period (10-180min) and concentration of various metal cations (5, 10, 50 and 100ppm). In order to obtain adsorbents that are insoluble and stable, and prevent the dissolution loss of chitosan into an acidic aqueous solution, chitosan flakes were cross-linked with epichlorohydrine (ECH) and its adsorption behavior was compared with that of the non cross-linked chitosan. An advantage of ECH is that it does not eliminate the cationic amine functional group of chitosan. In terms of adsorption ratio, the chitosan cross-linked at an ECH was inferior to original chitosan and was found that chitosan has a selectivity much remarkable than the cross-linked chitosan in low concentrated metal solutions. However, no significant decreases in the adsorption ratios were observed between the cross-linked ECH-chitosan and the non cross-linked chitosan concerning the adsorption of
Evaluation of Tailorability of Adhesive Fabrics for Men's Suit
Kim, Jung-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 5, 2006, Pages 585~590
In the variation of physical properties of adhesive fabrics, the objective of this study is to analyze fitness of fusible interlining to four sorts of fabrics for men's suit with various structural parameters. Four fusible interlinings are used for adhering to fabrics for men's suit. Mechanical properties of these 16 adhesive fabrics fused with these interlinings are measured by KES-FB system for analysing appearance and wearing properties of garments and for examining the fitness of fusible interlining to the fabrics for men's suit. The variation of bending property for adhesive fabrics are found to be higher in the order of interlining 1(Cotton30/Rayon70, plain), interlining 2(Polyester30/Rayon70, warp knit), interlining 4(Polyester, shingosen fabrics with drawing textured yarn) and interlining 3(Polyester, double dot coating interlining). The variation of adhesive effect shows the same results with bending property and shows negative relation with extensibility in weft direction per extensibility in warp direction(EM2/EM1). The variation of peel strength of adhesive fabrics, woolen fabrics in the case of face fabrics and interlining 3 in the case of interlining shows the largest value respectively.
Evaluation of Appearance Capacity of Fabrics for Men's Suit by FAST System
Kim, Jung-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 5, 2006, Pages 591~596
In order to analyze the tailorbility of different fabrics for men's suit, FAST system has been used for measuring the distribution of mechanical properties in this study. As results, cashmere mixed woolen fabrics showed the minimum degree in relaxation shrinkage, formability, and shear rigidity than any other fabrics, and also showed more than 6% as maximum level of extensibility. Thus, cashmere mixed woolen fabrics requires careful tailoring in lay-out, marking, and cutting. It is necessary to establish new tailoring criteria for automatic sewing with cashmere mixed woolen fabrics than any other fabrics, because they show more failure rate of tailorbility. There have been noticeably more variation of shrinkage and extension for woolen fabrics with cashmere mixed than 100% woolen fabrics by evaluating the formability of the suits when these are completed to suits through cutting and tailoring from fabrics. Especially nylon mixed woolen fabrics showed shrinkage overall, but polyester mixed woolen fabrics showed extension at waist area. Thus, it is necessary to adjust the appropriate overfeed rate considering the amount of shrinkage and extension while tailoring.
Ergonomic Evaluation of Functional Working-Clothes - Focused on Flame-Proof Clothing -
Kim, Hee-Eun ; Yeon, Soo-Min ; Jeong, Jeong-Rim ; Lee, Min-Jeong ; Chang, Joon-Ho ; You, Hee-Cheon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 5, 2006, Pages 597~603
This study was aimed to find out the problems of wearing flame-proof clothing and to analytically assess functional working-clothes, thus to propose a new design. We carried out a questionnaire with workers in the field and evaluated the facility for wearing, the sensation of wearing and clothing microclimate in the environmental chamber. We found out the problems were in the parts of neck, armpits, armhole, sleeve, crotch and suspenders. Thermal sensation, wet sensation and comfort sensations were evaluated to be 'hot', 'wet' and near to discomfort', respectively. Therefore, improvement of movement and air permeability is needed. If we can add gusset on armpit for air permeability, this gusset will enable to enlarge the surface in armpit area and finally give a movement efficiency. We suggested several new partly modified design for flame-proof clothing which can be applied to other protective clothing for improvement. This must be further considered in the ergonomic evaluation of new proposed functional working-clothes as well as in the suggestion of design.