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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 8, Issue 6 - Dec 2006
Volume 8, Issue 5 - Oct 2006
Volume 8, Issue 4 - Aug 2006
Volume 8, Issue 3 - Jun 2006
Volume 8, Issue 2 - Apr 2006
Volume 8, Issue 1 - Feb 2006
Selecting the target year
여성복식에 나타난 에로티시즘의 변화
Kim, Sun-Hwa ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 6, 2006, Pages 613~617
The Actual Conditions, Problems and Design Preferences of Dementia Inpatient Clothing
Ryou, Eun-Jeong ; Park, Hye-Won ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 6, 2006, Pages 618~626
This research explored the actual conditions, problems and design preferences of dementia inpatient clothing. Data were collected by surveying 21 dementia hospitals and nursing care facilities and 87 caregivers and nurses of dementia hospitals. The collected data were analysed through frequency analysis, descriptive analysis and factor analysis. The results were as follows, First, the inpatient clothes of dementia hospitals were two-piece styles, the shirts of front opening with buttons and pants of no opening with elastic band. Those of dementia care facilities were two piece styles of shirts and pants, training suits or private plain clothes not uniform. Severe dementia inpatient dressed uniforms of the jump suits or two piece styles in some dementia care facilities. Second, the problems of dementia inpatient clothing were composed of suitability of raw and subsidiary clothing material, diversity of design and size, durability and form stability of clothes and elastic bands. Third, the design elements similar to those of existing inpatient clothing were preferred with regard to improving dementia inpatient clothing. That is, the design preferences of shirts showed front opening style with buttons, round neckline and a three-quarter-length sleeves. Those of pants came out no opening style with elastic band and full length. Also, pink color and natural patterns were preferred, and the private plain clothing of inpatient and fusion Han-bok style were somewhat preferred.
A Comparative Study on the Decorative Pattern for the Traditional Costume in South and North Korea - Focus on Women Dress Since in the Middle 1990s -
Chung, Hye-Gyung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 6, 2006, Pages 627~633
This study examined the kinds, expression, techniques and arrangement of patterns for the traditional women's costume from 1995 to 2002 in North Korea. And the results were compared with South Korean. Conclusions are as follows : In the kinds of patterns the natural plant patterns were much more frequently used in North Korea. These tendency was same to South Korea. And the geometric patterns were more frequently used in South Korea. According to frequency in the expression of patterns, it was the realistic, geometric, stylized shape in North Korea. To the contrary it was the stylized, geometric, realistic shape in South Korea. In terms of decorative techniques, not only the traditional embroidery, gold leaf, multicolored stripes, but also modern collages, painting, beads, applique, flounce, ruffle were used in North Korea. Modern techniques were found comparatively a lot in North Korea, traditional techniques were found comparatively a lot in South Korea. In terms of arrangement of patterns, the modern arrangement was much more frequently used. And localized type of modern arrangement was found comparatively a lot in South and North Korea. Therefore traditional beauty was generally expressed by natural patterns, realistic shape and modern beauty was generally expressed by modern techniques and arrangement of patterns in North Korea.
The Preservation Treatment of Unlined Silk Jeogori Found at the Wooden Munsudongja Buddha Statue in the Sangwon Temple
Kwon, Young-Suk ; Baek, Young-Mee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 6, 2006, Pages 634~638
The significance of this study is the demonstration of a new method of preservation procedure for national-treasure-class cultural-assets by examining the characteristics of the Jeogori relic, presumed to be that of King SeJo, and validating the preservation process. This Jergori as well as the wooden Munsu-donja Buddha statue from which they were found are designated as national treasure. The Jeogori relic is made of light silk and dimensions mark 77 cm in length, 67 cm in width, and 94 cm in sleeve length. It is a typical Jeogori worn in the Chosun Dynasty. Preservation procedure was in the following order: Removing dust and pollutants by vacuum, washing, removing creases, reinforcing the clothes, settling at paulownia backboard, and packing. Storage and exhibition of remains was executed with as minimal folding as possible, and microbiological damage prevention was performed by dyeing antibacterial treatment with eugenol onto supporting cloth. The relic, conservatively treated in accordance with the above procedure, is currently kept at the storage facility of the citadel Museum in the Woljeong Temple. It is displayed annually to the general public for approximately two weeks.
The Effect of the Clothing Benefits Sought on the Enviromental Awareness and Environment-Friendly Consuming Behavior
Jung, Yu-Jung ; Park, Ok-Lyun ; Ha, Jong-Kyung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 6, 2006, Pages 639~646
The purpose of this study is to examine clothing benefits seeking and buying behavior depending on the level of environmental awareness. The results showed a significant relationship between the level of environmental awareness and the factors of demographic characteristics, such as age, marital status, educational status, and type of housing, occupation, and average household income. However, there was no significant difference between those by gender. In relationship between the level of environmental awareness and clothing benefits seeking behavior, there were significant differences between the following groups. such as social stability-oriented, brand-oriented, individuality-oriented, and comfort-oriented group. With regard to the relationship between environment-friendly consuming behavior and demographic characteristics, there were significant differences in all factors of the demographic characteristics. Buying behavior showed a significant relationship with all factors of demographic characteristics except type of housing. Using behavior matched a significant relationship with all factors of demographic characteristics. Disposition behavior demonstrated a significant relationship with all factors except marital status. In terms of the effect of clothing benefits sought on the environment-friendly consuming behavior, the results suggested a significant relationship of brand-oriented, individuality-oriented, comfort-oriented, and price-oriented factors. Buying behavior showed a significant relationship with brand-oriented, comfort-oriented, and price-oriented factors. Using behavior demonstrated a strongly significant relationship with comfort-oriented factor while disposition behavior suggested a strong relationship with price-oriented factor.
The Difference of Goods Attribute, Brand Awareness by Fashion Brand Type
Yoo, Tai-Soon ; Shin, Won-Hye ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 6, 2006, Pages 647~654
The purpose of this study is to identify the differences among goods attribute and brand awareness on fashion brand type. we were intended to suggest characteristics of each consumer group by identifying the differences of consumers' purchasing activities. 672 of consumers by brand who frequently purchase casual brand were chosen for the analysis according to common brand classification of national brand, private brand and no brand. For the purpose of data analysis, we performed factorial analysis of measuring tools and credibility test. Concerning the differences of goods attribute, brand awareness by brand type, MANOVA, ANOVA was employed, complimented with Sheffe-test as a post hoc test in case of occurrence of any differences by group. The findings from the analysis are described in the following. Regarding goods attribute by fashion brand type, there existed a significant difference between brand types in all the sub factors of goods attribute such as product attribute, shop attribute, and price attribute. Especially, the difference of product attribute is much more significant in the areas of material suitableness, product assortment, aesthetic expression, size & quality, clothing maintenance, and clothing comfortableness. In case of shop attribute, there was a significant difference between groups in all the factors such as shop environment, convenience of shopping, sales promotion, service quality of sales clerk, location, and shop reputation. Concerning price attribute, we found a significant difference between groups in the factors of price value, price reasonableness, price information, and economical efficiency of price. As for the difference of brand awareness by brand type, among other factors, brand value had a difference between groups; that is, private brand was found to obtain the highest brand value awareness.
Gender Characteristics and Consumption Propensity Depending on Golfers' Choice Criteria for Golf-wear
Kim, Ju-Ae ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 6, 2006, Pages 655~664
This study aims to examine the gender characteristics depending on golfers' criteria of choosing golf-wear and to identify the differences in consumption propensity. The research methodology was through the use of questionnaires, completed by golfers in Gyeongnam. As a result of examining the gender differences in the criteria of choosing golf-wear, it has been found that female golfers give more considerations to suitability to body, care convenience, and functionality than male golfers do when choosing golf-wear. As a result of analyzing the factors regarding the consumption propensity of golf-wear, they are categorized into ostentaion, fashion, aesthetic appreciation and practicality. According to the consumption propensity, male golfers were classified into three groups: ostentatious perfection, practical, common group. Female golfer were classified into three groups: practical, common, ostentatious perfection group. Groups of men golfers showed significant differences in the factors of ostentation, fashion and aesthetic appreciation of the consumption propensity. Groups of women golfers, however, showed significant differences in the factors of ostentation and practicality of the consumption propensity. It is considered that marketers need to develop golf-wear according to the gender characteristics by referring to the fact that choice criteria differ according to gender and consumption propensity.
Development of Natural Dyeing Pigments and Culture Goods with Useful Biological Resources - Research on Development of Tourist Souvenirs for Hampyeong Butterfly Festival -
Park, Mi-Ryung ; Kim, Sang-Yool ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 6, 2006, Pages 665~671
This study is to develop tourist souvenir which designed image of butterfly, the symbol of Hampyeong Butterfly Festival, using natural dyeing product, the specialty of Namdo region. Results of market survey of tourist souvenirs for Hampyeong Butterfly festival showed that souvenirs of butterfly design sold in market which were not discriminated from that of general products and locality or characteristic of the region could not be exhibited. According to the results of market survey, design of souvenirs of Hampyeong Butterfly Festival is as follows; Butterfly pattern of hinge and Dangcho pattern are developed to graphic motive of modern sense with traditional beauty to make design which can be consumed by modern consumers in their actual life and then proper pattern is planned by combining, repeating and disassembling them. Such a pattern is applied to souvenirs like T-shirts, necktie and scarf to make tourists feel identity and unification of the festival visually. In addition, design of souvenirs was made to be coordinated with casuals. Therefore, visual factor could be extracted from Korean cultural heritages suitable to concept of local festivals and it is considered that ways of commercialization and development of traditional pattern suitable to consumers' demands can be suggested.
Image Management and Luxury Goods in Korean Society: A Cultural Sociological Perspective
Choi, Set-Byol ; Jin, Ki-Nam ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 6, 2006, Pages 672~678
This study examines the implications of fashion in self-expression or image management among college students in Korea. Socio-demographic factors are considered in addressing following research questions: why Korean college students seek luxury goods; how they recognize the effects of using luxury goods on their image management; whether or not they have purchased counterfeit luxury goods; and why they buy counterfeit goods. In order to explain the relationship between fashion and social class, the study examines various sociological theories including Erving Goffman's dramaturgical approach. The data were drawn from 1419 students from 10 universities nationwide in 2005. Chi-square analyses yields outcomes as follows: Using luxury goods works as a class symbol that gives the users the image of higher socio-economic background; use of counterfeit luxury goods and its symbolic effects in image management do not have significant relationship with socio-economic background.
A Study on the Formative Characteristic and the Components of Visual Evaluation of the Bolero
Kim, Jeong-Mee ; Lee, Jung-Soon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 6, 2006, Pages 679~686
The purposes of this study are to look into the formative characteristics of the bolero and to evaluate the visual effects and images according to changes in the line and length of the connecting lines of the neck, center front, and hem lines from analyzing the bolero style shown in 2005 S/S domestic fashion. Theoretical examination of the bolero was made philologically with reference books, theses and some articles. And the bolero style shown in 2005 S/S domestic fashion was analyzed with pictures from a fashion magazine "Ceci" and a fashion website 'Interfashion Planning" from Feb. to Aug. of 2005. As a result, the basic lines of the bolero are classified into three different categories according to the connecting lines of the neck, center front line, and hem line. We altered the length of the bolero in three categories with the changes in the waistline-5 cm, 8 cm, and 11 cm. For the visual evaluation, 9 stimuli were placed in mannequins, and were estimated by the experts in the fashion design. For the visual evaluation according to changes in the line and length of the bolero, we used 12 pairs of items to find the visual effects, and 13 pairs of adjectives to measure the visual images. The stimuli and adjectives were randomly given to the evaluators and were evaluated by the 7-Point Likert Type Scale. Data we got from this experiment was analyzed statistically by using the SPSS 12.0 and practiced the Factor Analysis and Correlation Analysis. In the current women's garments, the bolero is a new fashion item which combines with jackets or cardigans. Usually the bolero jacket is made out of a cotton, denim, leather or fur, and the bolero cardigan usually used knitted materials. The design could be very varied depending on the roundness of the center front line, and hem line. According to the result of factor analysis of the visual effects of the Bolero, four factors were identified the whole silhouette, neck line, breasts and shoulders. According to the result of factor analysis of the visual image of the Bolero, three factors were identified maturity, tenderness, neatness.
Analysis of Dress Style and Patterns for the Reproduction of Empire Style Dress
Lee, Jeong-Ran ; Jung, Jae-Min ; Cho, Youn-Joo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 6, 2006, Pages 687~696
This study aims at analyzing the silhouette, dress patterns and detail of Empire Era(1789-1825), and making use of this results for the modern stage costume construction. The dresses of Empire era were divided into X and H style. The results revealed that the bust girth of X style group was bigger than that of H style group. Such patterns as high waistline, puff sleeve, train, etc. which appeared during the peak time of Empire style period were more remarkable for H style group. This obviously indicated that more epical characteristics were observed for H style group than for X style group. Similarly to silhouette analysis, based on the results from cluster analysis conducted to put similar groups together, two groups were formed - a visually differentiated and complex group and a simple group in the absence of detail. Most dress details from Empire period had simple embellishments. Comparison of the average size of the patterns between two groups indicated that waist front length of H style was shorter than that of X style. Front interscye was even greater than back width for both groups. Such trend was quite different from today's pattern in which back width is larger than front width based on body measurements. Preference for big breast during the period was reflected on dress patterns and the side length of front side goes across the back much further for bodice patterns. Two representatives were selected and reproduced using materials similar to those of real dresses of Empire style, following two times fit test.
The Studies of Body Fat and Physical Characteristics between Korean and Chinese Females
Sung, Min-Jung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 6, 2006, Pages 697~701
The physical traits and the body fat rate of women in 20s~30s in China and Korea, which are very adjacent to each other but different, were compared and examined. By this research, the physical type of women in both countries were examined, and the result was as follows. As Chinese women in 20s~30s got older their weight become heavier. In the case of circumference items, the significance was acknowledged in all the items except items of chest circumference, hip circumference and stature. On the other hand, as Korean women in 20s~30 got older their stature decreased, but their weight got heavier. In the case of circumference items, the significant was acknowledged in all the items except items of thigh circumference, calf circumference and minimum leg circumference. In addition, the value of anthropometry of Chinese and Korean women had some difference. Especially item chest circumference and hip circumference were higher in Korean women, and these body sizes were related with the obesity. Also, it was revealed that Korean women were exposed to obesity more than Chinese women. In the case of both Chinese and Korean women, the index of obesity belonged to the range of normality, but the body fat rate and BMI Index of Korean women were a little higher than in Chinese women.
Natural Dyeing Properties and Antibacterial Activity of Nylon Fabric Dyed with Cochineal
Bae, Jung-Sook ; Huh, Man-Woo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 6, 2006, Pages 702~708
The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeing-property and antibacterial activity on nylon fabric dyed with cochineal at variable dyeing conditions. Al, Cr, Fe, Cu and Sn were used as mordants and adsorption was compared with different mordanting methods. The maximum UV-visible absorption band of cochineal extract was 495 nm. The dyeability on nylon fabric was good because of having a amine group. The optimum dyeing conditions of nylon fabrics are dyeing concentration 1.5%(o.w.s), dyeing temperature
, pH 3 and dyeing time 30 minutes. The pre-mordanting method is preferred for Al and Cr, and the post-mordanting one is preferred for Cu, Sn and Fe to achieve better dyeing. The optimum mordanting conditions of wool fabrics dyed with cochineal are mordanting concentration of 0.5%(o.w.s), mordanting temperature
, and dyeing time 30 minutes. Nylon fabrics dyed with cochineal show a little antibacterial activity, but it was increased by Sn mordanting. MIC test results in antibacterial activities revealed that the antibacterial activity of Cu was the highest among mordants, but Sn mordant was the most effective in antibacterial activities after mordanting treatment of nylon fabric. The fastness properties of dyed nylon fabric showd a little worse or a similar level and there was no significant difference between a mordanted and non-mordanted fabric.
Application of Layered System to the Outdoor Clothing - Through Water Vapor Permeability -
Oh, Ae-Gyeong ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 6, 2006, Pages 709~712
The aim of this study is to find out comfortable combinations of layered system for outdoor activities through water vapor permeability. Layering fabrics is an effective way of controlling water transport properties in fabric systems for outdoor activities and analysis of these systems may be useful for designing comfortable clothing. Seven fabrics were chosen for the experiments: two fabrics for base layer, two for the middle layer and three for the shell layer. A total of 12 different layered systems, which are all possible combinations were established using selected fabrics. The water vapor permeability was measured using JIS L1099 under isothermal and non-isothermal conditions. It was found that layered system was working together as a whole having influence on each layer, though every layer offers varying degree of water vapor permeability. Furthermore, it was also found that an optimal combination of the three layered system does exist although the combination may differ according to the ways. The shell layer is the greatest effect of water vapor permeability under isothermal and non-isothermal conditions within layered system.
The Effects of Pillow Filling Materials on the Comfortable Sleep
Sung, Min-Jung ; Sung, Su-Kwang ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 6, 2006, Pages 713~720
Heat conductivity, height, size, elasticity of pillow, stability of shape, hygroscopicity, ventilation, temperature and easy movability, and so on, are considered to be some of major conditions that affect the comfortable sleep. Considering those factors together, the thermal properties, height, shape and feeling of touch, etc, of pillow must be taken into account. Though studies have been conducted to figure out the physical properties of mattress or pillows from the perspective of factors related to the environment of sleep, they are not enough to be used as an index to evaluate the qualitative aspect of sleep. This study tries to consider the effect of pillow filling materials on the comfortable sleep, for which EEG, ECG, EOG, EMG, RT, etc, are to be measured in an attempt to provide the basic data required in proposing the condition that may lead to a sound and comfortable sleep. Three types of pillows that are sold in the market were used for this research in order to evaluate the quality of sleep depending on the filling materials of pillow. All data were statistically processed and the following conclusions were drawn. It was found that the pillow with feathers provided the best comfort as the pillow A turned out to have the shortest sleeping latency(SL) from the perspective of comfort. The pillow B which used the polyethylene is deemed to be suitable for fatigue relieving purpose as it turned out to have the highest slow wave sleep(SWS), but no statistically significant difference was validated. Moreover, the pillow C which used the natural wool was found to have the narrowest contacting area of the pillow and head and provide a great warm heat comfort that may led to a sound sleep because the temperature below the pillow took the longest time to rise.
The Subjective Evaluation of Color Image Depending on the Change of Luminous Source
Choi, Na-Young ; Lee, Jong-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 6, 2006, Pages 721~726
In this article I visually assessed the relation between luminous source and color, and analyzed subjective recognition of color by light source and image of color, aiming at giving guidelines in selecting source of light suitable for each purpose, thereby contributing to enhanced quality of life. For this purpose, I subjectized, by applying a quantitative method, the objective measurement that employs sensory evaluation method for 14 categories of color, light and feelings in visual perception of textile colors (blue, green and yellow) by color of light source (color temperature of 2800K, 4200K and 6500K), Followings are the conclusions derived form this study. Colors of textile were differently perceived according to the color of light source. When examining common recognition of textiles in blue, green and yellow, 2800K was said to give dirty, soft and blurred image, as for 4200K clear, wide and fine feelings were said, and pure, vivid, refined and bright image were marked for 6500K. As for 2800K, it got the most low appraisals compared with others. In conclusion, image and feeling of the same colors can differ according to light source, which indicates the importance of appropriate selection of light source for purpose of use. As for yellow, the number of assessment result that shows significant difference was the smallest among the three colors. So, it can be concluded that when we consider the recognition of color in mixing different colors, mixing with yellow can result in difficulty in visually perceiving difference of colors. Therefore, it is regarded that more considerable attention is required when dealing with yellow color.
Effect of Wearing Reformed Flame-Proof Clothing on Physiological Responses and Subjective Sensation
Kim, Hee-Eun ; Jeong, Jeong-Rim ; Yeon, Soo-Min ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 8, issue 6, 2006, Pages 727~732
The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of flame-proof clothing on physiological responses and subjective sensation. We measured rectal temperatures, local skin temperature, clothing microclimate, blood pressure, heart rate, body weight loss and subjective sensation during 90 minutes (30 min of rest, 45 min of exercise and 15 min of recovery periods). Seven male subjects wore flame-proof clothing or reformed flame-proof clothing under the environmental condition of
RH. The results of this study were as follows; Rectal temperature, mean skin temperature, clothing microclimate and blood pressure were significantly lower levels in reformed flame-proof clothing. Heart rate and body weight loss were also showed lower levels. Subjects replied less hot, less uncomfortable and less wet in wearing a reformed flame-proof clothing. Our present results suggest that the ventilation through of gusset in underarm seam and zipper in sideseam of slacks are qualitatively useful for physiological needs.