• Title, Summary, Keyword: Subculture

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A Study on Pao, A Caftan type Subculture Garment in China Nationality (중국소수민족 포의 연구)

  • 정은택;박춘순
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.6
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    • pp.155-162
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    • 2000
  • Classifying the diverse and complex clothing category of nationality subcultures in China is not a simple task. However, summing up, it can be largely classified that clothing of the northern area is long trousers and short skirt. Among the clothing of Nationality in China, especially, Pao(robe: 袍) has its diversity and colorfulness. whose elements forming its each characteristic feature has enough value to be investigated fully in the historical point of view. The conclusions of this study reveals that Pao in nationality subculture in China can possibly be divided into the four types as Qipao(旗袍) in Dongpei area, Mongopao(蒙古袍) in Inner Mongolia, Qiapan in Xinjiang area, and Zangpao in Tibet area. The modes of Qipao and Mongopao are mainly similar in that they have diagonally on the right, stand collar in composition, but Qipao shows its diversity in collar and slashes, and Mongopao also shows diversity in its colare and waistband. Since western culture flowed into China along with its open door and reform policy, the splendid color and distinctive pattern, decoration, diversified method of compositions and clothing categories of Nationality cultures are disappearing in its their originality and nationality.

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The Changes in Subcultural Style(1) : Zoot Style (하위문화맥락에서 본 패션형태의 변화(1)­Zoot Style을 중심으로)

  • 양미경
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.2 no.2
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    • pp.5-17
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    • 2000
  • This study about the Zoot Style is the first part of a series of research, which is to examine various subcultural styles in 1900s. The main concern of this research is to investigate the origin of a style, the way how it developed, and the reason it appealed to people. Subculture is a marginallized culture which the subordinal groups in the social structure developed as a means of reaction against the dominant groups of a society. The clothes and decorations of these groups can be regarded as the central expressions of exclusiveness, loyalty and identities for their groups. In 1990s, the distinction between the subcultural style and high fashion tend to be blurred, because it has gained more influence on the high fashion. Zoot Suit, adopted and diffused by Cap Calloway in 1940s, is the code of a subculture formed by a special race, class, space, gender, and generation identities. It develops as a reaction, and consequently reflects the struggles against the dominant culture: it is to refuse, appreciate and ridicule the dominant style. The Zoot Style had a great influence both in Paris and Cuba: the Zazous Style in Paris and the Caribbean Style of Cuba are the subcultural styles branched from the Zoot Style.

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Characteristics of Consumers and Their Perceptions of Natural-Dyed Clothes (천연염색 의류에 대한 소비자 반응 및 소비자 특성)

  • 홍나영;유혜경;이주현;석혜정;신혜성;김찬주
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.11 no.3
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    • pp.404-415
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    • 2003
  • The main purpose of this exploratory research was to examine the characteristics of consumers who patronize natural-dyed clothes and their perceptions regarding natural-dyed clothes. Thirty three participants who have worn natural-dyed clothes were interviewed for the study. They were asked about the styles and price of natural-dyed clothes they owned, their evaluation on them, and the lifestyles of themselves. Existence of subculture among the interviewes and its characteristics were also probed. The results indicated that natural-dyed clothes are relatively high-priced, mostly of modified hanbok style, and became popular in recent years. Interviewees frequently mentioned uniqueness and comfort as the main benefits of natural-dyed clothes, and expressed dissatisfaction regarding color fastness, easy care and problem of coordination. The consumers of natural-dyed clothes appeared to have strong preferences for environment conservation and Korean traditional culture. They also seemed to form a subcultural group who have commonality in their involvement in Korean cultural activities, mainly tea ceremony.

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Simplified Slow Freezing Program Established for Effective Banking of Embryonic Stem Cells

  • Kim, Gil Ah;Lee, Seung Tae;Lee, Eun Ju;Choi, Jung Kyu;Lim, Jeong Mook
    • Asian-Australasian Journal of Animal Sciences
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    • v.22 no.3
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    • pp.343-349
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    • 2009
  • This study was designed to simplify a cryopreservation program for embryonic stem cells (ESCs) by selection of cooling method and cryoprotectant. Commercially available mouse E14 embryonic stem cells (ESCs) were cryopreserved with various protocols, and morphology and viability of the frozen-thawed ESCs and their reactive oxygen species (ROS) production were subsequently monitored. Post-thaw colony-formation of ESCs was detected only after a slow freezing using dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) by stepwise placement of a freezing container into a $-80^{\circ}C$ deep freezer and subsequently into -$196^{\circ}C$ liquid nitrogen, while no proliferation was detected after vitrification. When the simplified protocol was employed, the replacement of DMSO with a mixture of DMSO and ethylene glycol (EG) further improved the post-thaw survival. ROS generation in ESCs frozen-thawed with the optimized protocol was not increased compared with non-frozen ESCs. The use of fresh mouse embryonic fibroblasts as feeder cells for post-thaw subculture did not further increase post-thaw cell viability. In conclusion, a simplified slow-freezing program without employing programmable freezer but using DMSO and EG was developed which maintains cell viability and colony-forming activity of ESCs during post-thaw subculture.

Growth and Differentation of Rat Mammary Epithelial Cells Cultured in Serum-free Medium

  • Kim, Dong-Yeum;Jhun, Byung-Hak;Lee, Kyung-Hee;Hong, Seung-Chul;Clifton, Kelly-H.;Kim, Nam-Deuk
    • Archives of Pharmacal Research
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    • v.20 no.4
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    • pp.297-305
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    • 1997
  • A new serum-free defined medium was developed that supports the growth of normal rat mammary epithelial cells. Mammary organoids from the glands of female F344 rats were cultured in a serum-free medium. Monolayer culture colonies developed within a week and remained viable for months in culture. Upon subculture of one-week-old primary colonies, almost the same morphology of colonies was developed. The scrape loading/dye transfer technique showed that most of colonies that developed in a serum-free medium containing EGF, human transferrin, insulin, and hydrocortisone (basal serum-free medium, BSFM) failed to show cell-cell communication. However, colonies cultured in BSFM supplemented with prolactin, $E_2$, and progesterone (complete hormone serum-free medium, CHSFM) showed cell-cell communication at 14 days of primary culture or of subculture. By flow cytometry with FITCPNA and PE-anti-Thy-1.1 monoclonal antibody, we distinguished four RMEC subpopulations in cultures in both media: Thy-1.1+ cells, PNA+ cells, cells negative to both reagents and cells positive to both reagents. It is likely that combined prolactin, cortisol, and insulin in CHSFM stimulate terminal differentiation of clonogenic cells.

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A Study on the Indeterminancy Expressed in the Postmodernism Fashion (포스트모더니즘 패션에 나타난 불확정성(Indeterminancy))

  • 양숙희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.45
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    • pp.179-199
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    • 1999
  • Indeterminancy is one of the thought systems which explains all things with not 'either-or' but 'both-and' the conditions and qualities of human identities and inner state. A view of the world of Dionisos of Nietzsche's and the character of Manneristic trend which has resolved the sense of alienation of men by paradoxic expression has succeeded to romanticism surrealism and postmodernism. 1. Cross-dressing has increased under contemporary conditions. There also have been various cross-dressing phenomena in the past but it appears strongly now that it would destroy the cultural stereotypes and give rise to the cultural insecurities in contemporary conditions. 2. The indeterminancy of status that is wealth versus poverty impacts on variations of contemporary dress. This has been represented by neglecting traditional code which is related to wealth in costume by conversion of the symbols of wealth and poverty as disguise with moderation simplicity and additionally poverty image instead of ostentation. 3. In the cultural aspect that is mother culture/ subculture the author has investigated black street fashion which has newly become visible. The black street fashion is wide spread in black popular music such as jazz Rhythm & Blues Reggae and Rap which is subculture against white. The external values of indeterminancy in fashion are n대-manneristic tendencies as deformation eclectic friction and irrational structure and graffiti method. The inner values by indeterminant expression in fashion are irony and paradox grotesque satire and amusement.

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Adventitious Root Culture and In Vitro Production of Dioscin from Smilax china L.

  • Kwon, Soon-Tae;An, Ju-Lee
    • Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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    • v.21 no.6
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    • pp.444-448
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    • 2008
  • An adventitious root formation protocol from Smilax china L. was established for in vitro production of dioscin, a steroidal saponin having various bioactivities such as anticancer, antifungal, antiviral, and antiobesity. Optimal medium for root initiation from leaf explant was MS medium containing $30\;g{\cdot}L^{-1}$ of sucrose supplemented with $1.0\;mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$ kinetin + $2.0\;mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$ NAA. The induction of adventitious roots from in vitro initiated root segments was most favorable to MS liquid medium with $0.1\;mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$ kinetin + $2.0\;mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$ NAA. Among the 20 different adventitious roots originated from different plants, strain No. 10 was selected based on production ability of dioscin, and its stability through the successive suspension culture. The maximum growth stage of adventitious roots was noticed at 5 weeks after subculture while that of dioscin production in the adventitious root was at 7 weeks after subculture in suspension culture system. These results provide that suspension culture of adventitious roots of Smilax china L. have a potential for in vitro mass production of dioscin.

Nucleus-DNA Damage and Different Response of Plant Cells to Paraquat in Relation to Enzyme Activity of Superoxide Dismutase. (Superoxide dismutase의 활성차이에 따른 식물세포의 paraquat에 대한 반응과 핵 DNA 손상 검정)

  • 권순태;이명현;오세명;정도철;김길웅
    • Journal of Life Science
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    • v.14 no.4
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    • pp.614-619
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    • 2004
  • This study was undertaken to investigate the different responses of cultured plant cells to paraquat treatment and nucleus-DNA damage in relation to enzyme activity of superoxide dismutase (SOD). Furthermore, this study was also carried out to understand the antioxidative mechanism of plant cells to environmental stress. We selected two different species of plant cultured cells, Ipomoea batatas as high-SOD species and Lonicera japonica as low-SOD species. The total activity and specific activity of SOD in a chlorophyllous cell of I. batatas were 3,736 unit/gㆍfresh weight and 547 unit/mgㆍprotein, respectively, and those in L. japonica were 23 unit/gㆍfresh weight and 13 unit/mgㆍprotein, respectively SOD activity in chlorophyllous I. batatas cells reached its maximum level at 10 to 15 days after subculture, whereas that in L. japonica remained at a very low SOD level during the whole period of subculture. In comparison to L. japonica, I. batatas, a high-SOD species, showed high tolerance to paraquat 10 and 50 mg/l treatment in terms of cell viability and electrolyte leakage. Based on the result of comet assay, the nucleus-DNA damage of two species by paraquat 50 mg/l treatment was not significantly different. However, I. batatas cells repaired their damaged DNA more effectively than the cells of the low-SOD species, L. japonica.

A Study on Aesthetic Characteristics of T-shirt Design (티셔츠 디자인의 미적 특성)

  • Choi, Jung-Hwa
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.9 no.4
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    • pp.363-372
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    • 2007
  • T-shirt has changed into advanced and stylish outwear by new paradigm, taste of consumer, awareness of recycling, spread of subculture, DIY culture, refusal of standardization and pursuit of high quality goods, etc. The purpose of this study was to analyze aesthetic characteristics of t-shirt designs that changed into diverse designs in world fashion college since 2000. The method of this study was to analyze documentaries, fashion magazines and internet fashion site. Aesthetic characteristics of t-shirt designs were expressed in deconstruction, mixture, integration and imitation. And each of external expressions and internal meanings was as follows: First, deconstruction was expressed in partial cutwork and three dimensional texture by sewing and construction drape. It means breaking the conventional structure and break-ing the boundary of t-shirt and another item and possibility of multi-vocal analysis. Second, mixture was expressed in collage of diverse ornaments, diverse fabrics and diverse patterns. It means exceeding the limit of material, elaboratenes and high quality of handwork, reflection of self-identity, brand image, fashion trend, consumer's psychology and mind of experimentation and couture. Third, integration was expressed in extension of length, width, use and style. It means unification of functions, deconstruction of items and extension of meanings and images. Forth, imitation was expressed in stain of dye, irregular and ripped sign, cut out, rough warp, drawing and washing, etc. It means subculture, rarity value, monopolization, diversity, familiarity, yearning and uniqueness.

Gothic Chic in High Fashion (하이패션에 나타난 고딕 시크)

  • Yim, Eun-Hyuk
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.5
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    • pp.1-17
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    • 2013
  • As style is the center of subcultural identity and the clothes and adornments are the most visible symbol of its membership, the style of Goth symbolizes the strong subcultural identity and acts as the practical basis to demonstrate commitment to the subculture. In the turn of the third millennium, fashion designers have drawn upon and extracted elements from many subcultures to use in their collections. High fashion designers have introduced the Goth style since its inception in the 1980s. The energy and authenticity of Goth has been considered to be desirable in high fashion. The aesthetic property of Goth subcultural style defeats the established notion of standardized fashion and stimulates new consciousness, which makes room for diversification and subdivision. This study attempts to forecast the trends of the 21st century via researching the diffusion of Goth style in high fashion. In order to investigate the aesthetics and styles of Gothic chic, along with literature research, this study investigates the fashion collections from the late 1990s to 2000s as well as the images of street fashion magazines.