• Title, Summary, Keyword: basic bodice pattern

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Adolescent Girls' Bodice Pattern Fit Using the 3-Dimensional Virtual Clothing System (3차원 가상 착의 시스템을 이용한 여자 청소년용 길 원형 맞음새 연구)

  • Kim, Dohkyung;Chun, Jongsuk
    • Family and Environment Research
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    • v.54 no.3
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    • pp.279-292
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    • 2016
  • This research predicted the fit of the basic bodice patterns worn on adolescent girls' 3-dimensional scanned bodies. Six 3-dimensional scanned bodies were selected from the sixth Size Korea data. Each of them had good body posture and represented one of the three garment sizes: 79-160, 82-160, and 85-160. Experimental basic bodice patterns were drafted by three basic bodice pattern making methods. The fit of the basic bodice pattern was analyzed by the CLO 3D virtual clothing system. The results showed that the experimental basic bodice patterns did not fit well at the neck, shoulder, and back for adolescent girls. The fit of the basic bodice patterns varied by pattern making method or size. The basic bodice pattern A with the waist darts ending above the breast line showed the best fit among the three different types of experimental pattern. Among the three sizes 79-160, 82-160, and 85-120, size 79-160 basic bodice pattern showed the worst fit for adolescent girls. The results show that the placement and size of the bodice darts affect the basic bodice pattern fit. The basic bodice pattern making method of size 79-160 for adolescent girls should be studied in a future study.

A Study on the Development of a Bodice Basic Pattern for High School Girls (여고생의 Bodice원형 개발에 관한 연구)

  • 김미숙;김경희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.24 no.7
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    • pp.1004-1014
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study was to develop a well-fitting bodice basic pattern for high school irk. Two bodice patterns were first made based on the most recent existing drafting methods and sensory evaluation was done on the patterns by the present researchers Two high school girls possessing standard physical condition tried and evaluated the functionality of the garments made by the two bodice patterns. Based on the results of the evaluation, a new bodice basic pattern was developed. The new bodice basic pattern was drafted by long measurement method. The dimensions of new bodice basic pattern were as follows. Bust circumference=B/2+4cm, Arms hole depth=C.B/2+1.5cm, Back width=B/6+4cm, Front width=B/6+3cm, Back neck width=B/12+0.5cm, Back neck depth=Back neck width/3cm, Front neck width=B/12cm, Front neck depth=B/12+0.5cm. The sensory and functional evaluations were also conducted for the new bodice basic pattern and the two patterns drafted by the existing methods. The new bodice basic pattern showed better fit both visually and functionally than the existing patterns. SPSS package including means, standard deviation and one-sample T-test were used for data analysis.

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A Study on Basic Pattern Evaluations Utilizing a Bodice Sloper Size Measurement Tool (원형치수 계산도구에 의한 바디스 원형 평가 연구)

  • Hong, Jiun;Kwon, Sookhee
    • Family and Environment Research
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    • v.54 no.4
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    • pp.427-440
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    • 2016
  • This study uses comparison tests of bodice basic patterns to research improvements in wearing evaluation methods based on differences in bodice basic patterns and body size. As study methods, we calculated body sizes for six types by selecting four types of bodice basic pattern and utilized bodice basic pattern size measurement tools. The study result are as follows. First, as the result of analyzing bodice basic patterns per each part and body size difference by bodice basic pattern size measurement tool, shoulder angle cover rate was J&K type 57.57%~68.41%, N type 53.13%~65.57%, L type 51.87%~63.73%, and H type 59.03%~68.20%. In the item of neck base circumference, it was J&K type 6.4~-16 mm, N type 10.7~-31.9 mm, L type -5.2~-13.4 mm, and H type -6.2~-15.4 mm. In the item of armscye circumference, it was J&K type -18.9~-59.4 mm, N type -15.2~-51.3 mm, L type -38.9~-52.7 mm, and H type -17~-42.2 mm. In the item of biacromion length, it was J&K type 23.2~-4.7 mm, N type 18.4~-10.4 mm, and H type 3.5~-5.7 mm. In the item of interscye back, it was J&K type and N type 17.6~-13.6 mm, L type 11.9~-13.6 mm, and H type 3.2~-11.8 mm. The item of interscye front was found in the sequences of study type and L type. Second, the Kruskal-Wallis test result (according to bodice basic pattern) indicated meaningful differences in items of shoulder angle cover rate, neck point to breast point, bust point-bust point, biacromion length and armscye circumference and H type had an overall higher rank.

Adult women's back type classification and Development of the Basic Bodice Pattern (성인여성의 등면형상 유형화와 길 원형 설계)

  • 최선윤;이정란
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.27 no.7
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    • pp.758-769
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    • 2003
  • In this research, I classified adult women's back types through anthropometric measurement and photographic measurement to present a judging individual body size according to the type. Also, Ⅰ calculated regression fomula by types and presented the basic bodice pattern. The results were as follows: 1. The result of factor analysis indicated that 5 factors were extracted and those factors comprised 75.89% of total variance. 2. According to the cluster analysis, Ⅰclassified the back types into 6 types. Type 1 was passive posture in the upper and the lower parts of the back. Type 2 was active posture in the upper and the lower parts of the back. Type 3 had the lowest protrusion of the back. Type 4 had the upper part of the back which is mostly bent downward. Type 5 was the most suitable shape. Type 6 had the lower part of the back which was turned over the most. 3. Ⅰconducted a discriminant analysis to judge the body types of individuals. 4. For the calculation of measurements necessary for the basic bodice pattern, Ⅰpresented regression formulas by each type. 5. By conducting the wearing experiments, Ⅰsuccessfully made the final basic bodice patterns by types. As a result of comparative experiments between the basic bodice patterns and comparison bodice pattern, the suitability of basic bodice patterns were more highly assessed.

Simulation on Silhouette Variations According to Vacant Space Quantity between Body and Clothing -Focused on Men's Upper Body- (인체와 의복과의 공간적 감각에 따른 실루엣 변화에 관한 연구 - 남성복 상의원형을 대상으로 -)

  • Choi, Mee-Sung
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.7 no.2
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    • pp.225-230
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    • 2005
  • This research was undertaken to compare basic bodice prototypes for Internet shopping customer, and to select a profitable fit vacant space quantity between clothing and body. A total one hundred of eighteen outfits (4 types of pattern ${\times}$ 9 subjects ${\times}$5 body areas) were constructed with basic bodice drafting method of Japan Bunka Women's University according to nine male body types. Fifty-two experts analysis of the different prototypes as five body area and evaluate the most appropriate ease amount and stabilization of the simulation images on the computer. The experiments with automated methods using simulation image are based on AZ program of TORAY, Japan. Data was analyzed using percentiles, frequency and $X^2$. Taken together, the present result of vacant space quantity and stability evaluation through images shows that there is a significant difference in the size variation of the chest circumference, shoulder slope and waist circumference. In case of ease amount, chest area, shoulder slope, waist area and armhole except neckline area were shown more appropriate on the basic bodice pattern without size change. In case of stabilization, the chest area, shoulder slope and armhole except waist area and neckline area was shown the best on the basic bodice pattern without size change. However the waist area was shown on the basic bodice pattern plus 2 cm, neckline was shown more appropriate on the basic bodice pattern plus 1cm.

Analysis of the Ease in Basic Bodice Pattern Using 3-D Measuring Instrument (3차원 계측장치를 이용한 길 원형의 여유량 분석)

  • Shim, Kue-Nam;Suh, Jung-Kwon;Lee, Won-Ja
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.2 no.3
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    • pp.239-245
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study was for analysis of ease about basic bodice pattern, as the first step of the research process for the drawing method of basic bodice for women in their twenties. The five selected basic bodice were made and they were worn by FRP body The garment space of each bodice was measured by analysis of the garment space of each section in figure of polymerization of cross section by a 3-D measuring instrument. The research suggests that this compared analysis is an objective reference. This analysis not only of the area of cross section of garment space and ease but also of the girth of the body shape and wearing shape, using the PAD system and 3-D measuring instrument, can be helpful in making garment patterns.

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A Study on the Design of Men's Jacket Pattern (남성 재킷 패턴 설계에 관한 연구)

  • Lee Won-Ja;Kim Jin-Sun
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.6
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    • pp.953-970
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study was to design men's jacket pattern for variable body types by employing the data of wearing evaluation from experimental basic bodices selected by male subjects in the 30's. As a result of sensory evaluation, functional test and clothing pressure test by each type of experimental basic bodices, the 3rd experimental basic bodice was chosen to be a basic bodice type in this research since it showed a high degree in fitness and function, but a low in the clothing pressure test. As a comparison of one item from conventional jacket and sleeve pattern with each somatotype, the type 2(the standard somatotype) indicated a great fitness in both basic bodice type and conventional jacket pattern, whereas the type 1 and the type 3 showed higher fitness and moving function in the basic bodice type. In the making of men's jacket, many corrections were made in the front interscye breadth, back interscye breadth, front and back length, and shoulder line as adapting each body type. Thus, the ease-amount of chest circumference at scye for clothes should be established differently according to the size of chest circumference at scye.

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A Study on Dart Manipulation of Women's Front Bodice by Computer-Aided Design (컴퓨터디자인에 의한 Front Bodice의 Dart 변형에 관한 연구)

  • 신상무
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.18 no.2
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    • pp.189-196
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    • 1994
  • The purpose of this study is to develop a computer program for automatic dart manipulation, as well as basic pattern making, of women's front bodice. In addition to accuracy and efficiency In pattern making, this computer program provides variations of basic patterns through dart manipulation. AutoCAD, running on the Austin 486DX micro-computer is used for this research. The procedures of this study are as follows : 1. A pattern-making method for women's front bodice is selected. 2. All co-ordinate points are located following the same way and order of drafting. 3. Drafting of a basic front bodice is programmed 4. Functions for various single dart manipulations are defined. 5. Menu-driven user interface is developed.

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Men′s Bodice Pattern Making Method using 3-D Body Scan Data (3차원 인체 스캔 데이터를 활용한 남성용 바디스 원형 설계 방법 연구)

  • 서동애;천종숙
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.2
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    • pp.290-299
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study is to testify the pattern making method to develop the men's basic bodice pattern using 3-dimensional body scan data. The experimental patterns were made by adding wearing ease on flattened body scan data and tracing the outlines of it. The experimental bodice pattern were composed of front, back, and side panels. To compare the difference between the experimental pattern and traditional pattern, two pattern making methods were compared. Two sets of basic bodice patterns were made for each of the 10 male subjects: a set of pattern was made by experimental method and the other set was made by Bunka pattern making method. The experimental and traditional patterns were measured at 13 dimensions. The results show that there was a difference between the experimental patterns and traditional patterns at the front length, back length, front width, front neck width, back neck width, and back neck depth. The fit was also compared for both patterns. The results of the fit test show that the experimental patterns were superior to the traditional patterns at the fit of neck, shoulder, and armhole. The experimental pattern making method was expected to be useful for mass customization.

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The Standardization of Graded Sizes through Comparing Bodice Patterns by Draping Method and Studied Flat Pattern Method -Using Replica Body-

  • Shim, Kue-Nam
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.6 no.3
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    • pp.399-403
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    • 2004
  • Education of clothing and textiles in the university is various according to the purposes. Among that clothing construction and practice is what is needed the most in understanding the process of apparel producing, and is the basic subject of areas from apparel designs to quality management. Producing apparel starts from planning the bodice pattern according to the human body shape. Basic bodice pattern should be highly practical so that production of all items of apparel patterns can be possible. Also, a basic bodice pattern needs to be planned in the way that even beginners can use it by classifying sizes according to each body measurements. Thus in this study. bodice patterns will be produced in way of draping method subjecting university students in early 20s. standardized and classified sizes will be calculated from it and bodice pattern made by studied flat pattern method will be examined and compared so that finally suitability will be compared. As a result of examining and comparing bodice patterns made by draping method and studied flat pattern method on the model of the human body produced by plaster method, sizes were classified into 5 levels. As a result of evaluation of creation. satisfying consequence from various body shape was acquired and it is expected of the beginners who are stating from clothing construction and practice to be educated by using the result of this study.