TRIMETHYLGLYCINE: A VEGETAL STRESS-MOLECULE PERFORMING A WIDE RANGE OF COSMETIC ACTIVITY

Trimethylglycine, commonly named betaine, is the most simple amphoteric molecule. It is completely vegetal (1,2), as it is produced in the sugar industry by industrial chromatography of molasses. While abundantly used in foods and diet supplements, many interesting applications in cosmetics have recently been investigated, like its capability to increase the volume and stability of foams in surfactant solutions. For its special chemical structure (it is the internal salt of a weak acid and a strong alkali) trimethylglycine is a solvent and buffering agent for strong acids and Lewis' acids. It allows to improve the efficiency of $\alpha$- and $\beta$-hydroxy acids in increasing the physiological rate of epidermal cell renewal, while keeping a low skin-irritation level. In oral care cosmetics, it acts as a mucous membrane protectant (3). For its special water co-ordination capability, its solubilising power, polymer swelling capability, after-feel improvement in hair products, skin moisturization and elasticity enhancing properties, trimethylglycine provides unusual characteristics to many products intended for skin maintenance (4).(omitted)