Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference (한국해양공학회:학술대회논문집)

Korean Society of Ocean Engineers (한국해양공학회)
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On the possibility of freak wave forecasting

  • Janssen, Peter A.E.M. (European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts) ;
  • Mori, Nobuhito (Osaka City University) ;
  • Onorato, Miguel (University of Torino)
  • Published : 2006.11.16
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Abstract

Modern Ocean wave forecasting systems predict the mean sea state, as characterized by the wave spectrum, in a box of size ${\Delta}x{\Delta}y$ surrounding a grid point at location x. It is shown that this approach also allows the determination of deviations from the mean sea state, i.e. the probability distribution function of the surface elevation. Hence, ocean wave forecasting may provide valuable information on extreme sea states.

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