A Study on the Sewing Construction of a Girl's Double Robe - Focusing on the Double Robe of Princess Chungyun (1752-l821) in tate Chosun Dynasty

여아(女兒) 2벌 당의(唐衣)의 봉제구성에 관한 연구 -조선후기 청연군주($1752{\sim}1821$) 2벌 당의를 중심으로-

The purpose of this study was to examine the sewing construction of a double robe, the difference between the single and double robe, and the size and construction method of the double robe through a close analysis of a replica to facilitate a better understanding of the robe making in late Chosun dynasty. The results were as follows: 1. There was no significant difference in the design and sewing method between the girl's robe and an adult's even though the girl's robe was much smaller. 2. The girl's robe differed from its modern counterparts in some respects: unlike modem robes, Chungyun's robe consisted of two-layers in which the four layers were sewn together and it could be seen most clearly in the way the collar was stitched only onto the outer layer. The two layers seemed to be put on successively since they were not sewn together. The inner collars of the two robes were sewn together when the maker put on a coat string to the outer robe, and the two robes were put together with hemming and blind stitch at the top of the outer collars to make the robe formally stable, which clearly distinguished the princess' robe from a single, for example, four-layered robe. The robe was constructed using traditional sewing methods including broad stitch, back stitch, hemming, and blind stitch, and each stitch was only about 1 mm wide. 3. The maker of the robe managed to construct a formally stable and aesthetically satisfactory robe with the least amount of fabric and proper sewing methods.