The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (복식문화연구)

The Costume Culture Association (복식문화학회)
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A Study on Natural Dyeing using Caesalpinia sappan -Mordanting Effect of Rice Straw Ash Solution-

소목 천연 염색에 관한 연구 II -잿물의 매염효과에 대하여-

  • Kwon Min-Soo (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Ewha Womans University) ;
  • Choi In-Ryu (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, SungShin Women's University) ;
  • Kim Jong-Jun (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Ewha Womans University) ;
  • Jeon Dong-Won (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Ewha Womans University)
  • 권민수 (이화여자대학교 의류직물학과) ;
  • 최인려 (성신여자대학교 의류학과) ;
  • 김종준 (이화여자대학교 의류직물학과) ;
  • 전동원 (이화여자대학교 의류직물학과)
  • Published : 2004.12.01
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Abstract

In the previous article, the effect of aluminum compounds on the mordanting of the Caesalpinia sappan L. dyeing was studied. According to the type of the compound, the effect on the dyeing was found to be different even if $Al^{3+}$ ion was present in the molecular structure of the compound. It was postulated that there would be complex effects other than the effects based on the purified Al compounds only, since there are some amount of compounds hard to neglect. In order to reproduce the traditional dyeing practice, rice straw ash solutions were prepared as mordanting agents. The pH values of the solution baths were 4, 5, 6, 9, and 11 in order to investigate the pH effect on the color development by adding appropriate amount of Schizandra chinensis extract solution. The inherent dyeing properties were evaluated by the analysis of color difference, air permeability, the characteristics developed by pre-mordanting, post-mordanting, or simultaneous mordanting methods.

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