Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Preparation of Oligo Hyaluronic Acid by Hydrolysis and Its Application as a Cosmetic Ingredient

저분자량 히알루론산의 제조 및 화장품에의 응용

  • 김기호 ((주)바이오랜드 생명공학연구소) ;
  • 김경태 ((주)바이오랜드 생명공학연구소) ;
  • 김영희 ((주)바이오랜드 생명공학연구소) ;
  • 김진국 ((주)바이오랜드 생명공학연구소) ;
  • 한창성 ((주)바이오랜드 생명공학연구소) ;
  • 박선희 ((주)바이오랜드 생명공학연구소) ;
  • 이방용 ((주)바이오랜드 생명공학연구소)
  • Published : 2007.09.30
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Abstract

In order to investigate the potential of very low molecular weight hyaluronic acid(oligo HA) as a cosmetic ingredient, we first measured its cytotoxicity in fibroblast, keratinocyte, and SIRC cell lines. For efficacy test, its moisturizing effect and penetration rate were evaluated in an artificial skin system and Caco-2 cells. Oligo HA did not show any cytotoxicity at a concentration of 300 ${\mu}g/mL$ in fibroblasts and 1,000 ${\mu}g/mL$ in keratinocytes but it showed weak proliferation. In vitro ocular test, oligo HA showed negligible cytotoxicity at the maximum concentrations used(2,000 ${\mu}g/mL$) in SIRC cells. In the test of the single and repeated cutaneous applications, oligo HA under occlusive patch did not provoke any cumulative irritation and sensitization. Oligo HA at a concentration of 0.01 % exhibited a more potent moisturizing effect than hyaluronic acid at a concentration of 0.01 %. In the permeability test using artificial skin and Caco-2 cell lines, hyaluronic acid(M.W. $1.1{\times}10^6$) was hardly observed in the down medium of the inserts. On the other hand, oligo HA(M.W. 5,000) was detected in the down medium up to 16.0 % at 6 h in Caco-2 cell culture and up to 90 % at 6 h in an artificial skin system. These results suggest that oligo HA could be useful as an active ingredient for cosmetics.

이온교환수지를 이용하여 말단기에 이중결합 생성이나 고리열림반응 없이 저분자 히알루론산(oligo HA)을 제조하였다. 제조된 oligo HA의 화장품소재로서의 활용 가능성 및 그 효능을 평가하기 위하여 fibroblast, keratinocyte 및 SIRC cell을 이용하여 독성을 평가하였고, Caco-2 cell과 인공피부를 이용하여 피부 투과도를 평가하였다. Oligo HA는 fibroblast와 keratinocyte cell에서 각각 300 ${\mu}g/mL$ 및 1,000 ${\mu}g/mL$까지의 농도에서 독성이 없었으며 in vitro ocular test에서도 2,000 ${\mu}g/mL$의 높은 농도에서까지 자극에 의한 세포독성이 관찰되지 않았다. Caco-2 cell을 이용한 세포 투과실험에서는 HA는 거의 투과되지 않는 것에 비해 oligo HA은 16.0 %까지 투과되었고, 인공피부를 이용한 세포투과 실험에서도 약 90 %의 상당히 높은 투과도를 보였다. 사람 피부에서 보습효과를 확인하기 위하여 oligo HA를 함유한 제형을 피부에 도포한 후 피부 수분량과 경피수분 손실량을 측정한 결과 HA와 비슷하게 우수한 보습 효과를 확인할 수 있었다. 인체 피부 누적 첩포 실험 결과, 특별한 피부 자극이 확인되지 않았다. Oligo HA는 HA의 우수한 보습력을 유지하면서 높은 피부 투과도를 갖는 보습소재로써 화장품에 유용하게 활용될 수 있음을 확인하였다.

Keywords

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