DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

How the Korean Fashion Industry is Viewed by WWD USA

미국 패션전문 일간지 WWD에 드러난 한국 패션산업에 대한 인식

  • Lee, Yu-Ri (Dept of Clothing & Textiles, Seoul National University/Research Institute of Human Ecology, Seoul National University) ;
  • Medvedev, Katalin (Dept. of Textiles, Merchandising & Interiors, The University of Georgia) ;
  • Hunt-Hurst, Patricia (Dept. of Textiles, Merchandising & Interiors, The University of Georgia) ;
  • Choi, Yun-Jung (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Seoul National University)
  • 이유리 (서울대학교 의류학과/생활과학연구소) ;
  • ;
  • ;
  • 최윤정 (서울대학교 의류학과)
  • Published : 2008.12.31

Abstract

Although we know that images of a country or an industry are influential factors in product evaluation, there has been little discussion about the channels through which consumers form a country or an industry image. Guided by the assumption that the image of the Korean fashion industry conveyed through U.S. media will likely affect the evaluation of Korean fashion products, we decided to examine articles published between January 1998 and June 2008 in Woman's Wear Daily(WWD), a prestigious U.S. daily trade newspaper covering all aspects of the national and international fashion business. By using the "Korean", we found 329 relevant articles. Through content analysis, we identified the aspects of the Korean fashion industry that have been considered salient to U.S. fashion media professionals. We set up categories based on the contents of the articles that discussed segments of the supply chain of the fashion industry. We found more comments on the Korean fashion industry as fiber and fabrics supplier or apparel manufacturer than in any other categories, which reflects that South Korea has been traditionally one of the most attractive sourcing countries for the U.S. fashion business. We identified significantly less coverage on the designing, branding, marketing, and retailing aspects of the Korean fashion industry. Due to economic boom in Korea, the country's fashion industry is recognized as having a highly fashion-conscious market that can afford the world's premium brands. However, the industry is viewed as being rather vulnerable to changes in the macro economic environment.

국가와 산업의 이미지가 제품 평가에 영향을 미치고 있다는 것은 주지의 사실이지만, 그러한 영향력의 경로가 되는 매체에 관한 연구는 부족하다. 본 연구는 미국의 대중매체에 드러난 한국의 패션산업 이미지가 한국의 패션제품을 평가하는데 영향을 미칠 것이라는 기본 가정하에, 한국 패션산업의 어떤 측면이 독자들에게 부각되고 있는지를 규명하고자 하였다. 미국의 명성 있는 패션전문 일간지인 WWD(Women's Wear Daily)를 선택하여 한국 패션산업과 관련된 내용분석을 시도하였다. 1998년 1월 1일부터 2008년 6월 30일까지 게재된 기사 중 "Korean" 이라는 단어를 포함한 기사를 우선적으로 검색하고 패션분야와 관련된 기사 총 329개를 최종적으로 선택하여 분석하였다. 섬유공급망 관리 상의 역할별로 분석 범주를 설정하고, 한국 패션산업이 공급망 상에서 어떤 역할을 담당하는 주체로 부각되고 있는지 살펴 보았다. 그 결과, 한국의 패션산업은 섬유와 원단공급업자, 혹은 의류제조업자로서의 역할을 담당하는 것으로 인식되는 경우가 많았다. 이는 역사적으로 한국이 미국의 패션산업의 주요 소싱국가였던 이력을 반영하는 결과이다. 디자인, 브랜딩, 마케팅, 소매유통업을 담당하는 역할자로서 한국 패션산업을 바라보는 관점은 상대적으로 미약하였다. 또한, 한국 패션산업은 패션에 관심이 많고 세계의 유명 고가 브랜드 제품을 소비할 수 있는 의미 있는 시장을 보유하고 있는 것으로 높게 인식되고 있는 반면 한국 패션산업은 거시 경제의 환경 변화에 따라 경기변동을 펴는 취약점이 있음이 부각되기도 하였다.

Keywords

References

  1. Adomaitis, A. D. & Johnson, K. P. (2008). Advertisements: Interpreting images used to sell to young adults. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 12(2), 182-192 https://doi.org/10.1108/13612020810874872
  2. Ahmed, S. A. & d'Astous, A. (2004). Perceptions of countries as producers of consumer goods: A T-shirt study in China. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 8(2), 18-200
  3. Bae, H. (2008, January 7). Koreans will lead the New York fashion world. The Korea Times. Retrieved September 1, 2008 from http://www.koreatimes.com/article/articleview.asp?id=425697
  4. Brewer, P. R. & Gross, K. (2005). Values, framing, and citizens' thoughts about policy issues: Effects on content and quantity. Political Psychology, 26(6), 929-948 https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-9221.2005.00451.x
  5. Burmann, C., Schaefer, K., & Maloney, P. (2008). Industry image: Its impact on the brand image of potential employees. Journal of Brand Management, 15, 157-176 https://doi.org/10.1057/palgrave.bm.2550112
  6. Cetindamar, D., Catay, B., & Basmaci, O. S. (2005). Competition through collaboration: Insight from an initiative in the Turkish textile supply chain. Supply Chain Management: An International Journal, 10(4), 238-240 https://doi.org/10.1108/13598540510612686
  7. Cho, Y. & Lee, Y. (2006). Influential factors of foreign market entry of Korean fashion firms. Journal of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 30(12), 1768-1777
  8. Cho, Y. & Lee, Y. (2007). Attitude toward fashion cultural products and purchase intention: Comparison of American, Japanese, and Chinese who visited Korea. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 57(10), 74-86
  9. Chong, D. & Druckman, J. N. (2007). A theory of framing and opinion formation in competitive elite environments. Journal of Communication, 57, 99-118
  10. De Klerk, H. M., & Lubbe, S. (2008). Female consumers' evaluation of apparel quality: Exploring the importance of aesthetics. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 12(1), 36-50 https://doi.org/10.1108/13612020810857934
  11. DeLong, M., LaBat, K., Nelson, N., Koh, A., & Kim, Y. (2002). Global products, global markets: Jeans in Korea and the United States. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 20(4), 238-245 https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X0202000407
  12. DeVris, M. (1998). Working with the fashion press. Public Relations Tactics, 5(4), 14
  13. Eisend, M. & Möller, J. (2007). The influence of TV viewing on consumers' body images and related consumption behavior. Marketing Letters, 18, 101-116 https://doi.org/10.1007/s11002-006-9004-8
  14. Entman, R. M. (1993). Framing: Toward clarification of a fractured paradigm. Journal of Communication, 43(4), 51-58 https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1460-2466.1993.tb01304.x
  15. Eum, S. (2007, September 28). Heading for the big 4 country in the fashion industry by 2015. MUNHWA. Retrieved September 1, 2008, from http://www.munhwa.com
  16. Gurhan-Canli, Z. & Maheswaran, D. (2000). Cultural variations in country or origin effects. Journal of Marketing Research, 37(3), 307-309
  17. Han, C. M. (1989). Country image: Halo or summary construct? Journal of Marketing Research, 26(2), 222-229 https://doi.org/10.2307/3172608
  18. Hulland, J. S. (1999). The effects of country-of-brand and brand name on product evaluation and consideration: A cross-country comparison. Journal of International Consumer Marketing, 11(1), 23-40 https://doi.org/10.1300/J046v11n01_03
  19. Jacobs, D. (2006). The promise of demand chain management in fashion. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 10(1), 84-96 https://doi.org/10.1108/13612020610651141
  20. Kim, K. S. & Park, H. W. (2001). A research on the present of Korean fashion designers who advanced to Paris and on the characteristics of their works. 19th International Costume Association Congress, 124-125
  21. Kleppe, I. A. & Mossberg, L. (2005). Country image: A reflection of the significance of the other. Advances in Consumer Research, 32, 295-301
  22. Kleppe, I., Iversen, A., & Stensaker, I. G. (2002). Country image in marketing strategies: Conceptual issues and an empirical Asian illustration. Journal of Brand Management, 10(1), 61-74 https://doi.org/10.1057/palgrave.bm.2540102
  23. Ko, E. & Song, Y. (2004). Entry to Chinese market for korean fashion brands: Current situations and suggestions of marketing strategies. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 29(2), 286-297
  24. Ko, E. & Suh, N. (2003). Current situation analysis of the international marketing among Korean apparel and textile firms. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 29(2), 286-297
  25. KOFOTI. (2008). Past and present of the textile industry. Retrieved September 1, 2008, from http://www.kofoti.or.kr/info/history_1970.php
  26. König, A. (2006). Glossy words: An analysis of fashion writing in British Vogue. Fashion Theory, 10(1/2), 205-224 https://doi.org/10.2752/136270406778051085
  27. Kopnina, H. (2007). The world according to Vogue: The role of culture(s) in international fashion magazines. Dialectical Anthropology, 31, 363-381 https://doi.org/10.1007/s10624-007-9030-9
  28. Lee, H.-S. (2004). Images of Korea and Korean in American newspapers. Journal of American Studies, 36(3), 228-255
  29. Lee, K. J., Cho, M. S., & Lee, J. M. (2007). Content analysis of the New York Times on Korean food from 1980 to 2005. Korean Journal of Food Culture, 22(2), 289-298
  30. Lee, S.-E. & Littrell, M. (2003). Web sites for cultural products: Marketing potential for U.S. consumers. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 7(4), 356-370 https://doi.org/10.1108/13612020310496958
  31. Lee, Y. & Kincade, D. H. (2003). U.S. apparel manufacturer's company characteristic differences based on SCM activities. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 7(1), 31-48 https://doi.org/10.1108/13612020310464359
  32. Martin, I. & Eroglu, S. (1993) Measuring a multi-dimensional construct: Country image. Journal of Business Research, 28, 191-210 https://doi.org/10.1016/0148-2963(93)90047-S
  33. Masson, R., Iosif, L., MacKerron, G., & Fernie, J. (2007). Managing complexity in agile global fashion industry supply chains. The International Journal of Logistics Management, 18(2), 238-254 https://doi.org/10.1108/09574090710816959
  34. Mittelstaedt, J. D., Hopkins, C. D., Raymond, M. A., & Duke, C. R. (2004). Perceived differences among countries: Understanding relative perceptions. Journal of International Consumer Marketing, 17(1), 7-31 https://doi.org/10.1300/J046v17n01_02
  35. Monro, F. & Huon, G. (2005). Media-portrayed idealized images, body shame, and appearance anxiety. International Journal of Eating Disorders, 38, 85-90 https://doi.org/10.1002/eat.20153
  36. Moon, N. C. (2003). Movement of foreign locations of the Korea textiles-clothing industry. Geography Studies, 37(4), 409-426
  37. Nabi, R. L. (2003). Exploring the framing effects of emotion. Communication Research, 30(2), 224-247 https://doi.org/10.1177/0093650202250881
  38. Nelson, M. R. & Paek, H. J. (2007). A content analysis of advertising in a global magazine across seven countries. International Marketing Review, 24(1), 64-86 https://doi.org/10.1108/02651330710727196
  39. Park, H.-W. (2004). A study on the recognition of Korean image fashion designs by U.K. fashion specialists. Journal of Fashion Business, 8(2), 69-90
  40. Roth, M. S. & Romeo, J. B. (1992). Matching product catgeory and country image perceptions: A framework for managing country-of-origin effects. Journal of International Business Studies, 23(3), 477-497 https://doi.org/10.1057/palgrave.jibs.8490276
  41. Scheufele, B. (2004). Framing-effects approach: A theoretical and methodological critique. European Journal of Communication Research, 29(4), 401-428 https://doi.org/10.1515/comm.2004.29.4.401
  42. Son, M. Y. & Rhee, E. Y. (2005). Study on globalization of Korean fashion enterprises-global configuration, global competitive strategy, and global performance of value activities. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 29(2), 286-297
  43. Sypeck, M. F., Gray, J. J., & Ahrens, A. H. (2004). No longer just a pretty face: Fashion magazines' depictions of ideal female beauty from 1959 to 1999. International Journal of Eating Disorders, 36(3), 342-347 https://doi.org/10.1002/eat.20039
  44. Wayne, W., Golan, G., & Lee, C. (2004). Agenda setting and international news: Media influence on public perceptions of foreign nations. Journalism and Mass Communication Quarterly, 81(2), 364-377 https://doi.org/10.1177/107769900408100209
  45. Weaver, D. H. (2007). Thoughts on agenda setting, framing, and priming. Journal of Communication, 57, 142-147 https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1460-2466.2006.00333.x
  46. Women's Wear Daily Highlights OmniaLuo's Plans to Enter U.S. Market. (2008, June 19). BusinessWire. Retrieved September 2, 2008, from http://www.businesswire.com/news/google/20080619006065/en
  47. Yu, H. L., Kim, C., Lee, J., & Hong, N. (2001). An analysis of modern fashion designs as influenced by Asian ethnic dress. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 25(4), 309-321

Cited by

  1. An Exploratory Study on the Relationship between Country Image and the Evaluation of Fashion Products Influenced by the Ethnic Dress of Asians vol.34, pp.12, 2010, https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.12.2022
  2. A Comparison of the Benefits for Online Clothing Purchase between Korean and U.S. Consumers vol.33, pp.7, 2009, https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.7.1074