A Comparative Study of Corsetry Methods

Corsetry 제작법 비교연구

  • 박상희 (안양과학대학 패션스타일리스트학과)
  • Published : 2008.05.31

Abstract

The aim of the study was to look into the construction methods of historical corsetry and compare them with the construction methods of corsetry today. Through a comparative study, it was concluded that the design, material, sewing and functions of corsetry of a certain period are sum of the clothing techniques and fashion of the time. Corset was first appeared at the end of the 16th century. It has been through many changes in terms of items, materials, patterns, sewing methods in order to make right silhouettes of the time. Now corsetry has been developed into various items such as waist nipper, all-in-one, nipper bra, and girdle. All these items have a common purpose, that is to improve the body shape. The corsetry of the past was made of non stretchable materials, so they used to restrict body movements, and required individual fitting several times. Due to the development of thin durable stretchable fabrics, functional bones, and advanced sewing machines, construction methods of seam, hem and opening are simplified compare to their predecessors. Consequently corsetry became less weighted, easy to wear, easy to wash and easy to mass produce. Yet they have consistency in sewing techniques such as using bones or wires to support bodice shape, using durable twill fabrics over plain for attractive body shapes.

Keywords

References

  1. 전혜정, 김지연 (2003). 20세기 코르세트리의 구성 및 제작기법. 복식문화연구, 7(4), p. 105
  2. 김경희 (2003). 르네상스 후기의 Corset 제작에 관한 연구. 패션비즈니스학회지, 7(1), pp. 152-150
  3. 윤진아 (2006). 여자속옷의 겉옷화 현상과 패턴 연구. 성신여자대학교 대학원 박사학위논문, pp. 10-14
  4. Willet, C., & Cunnington, P. (1992). The History of Underclothes. New York: Dover Publications, INC
  5. Doyle, R. (1997). Waisted Effort. Halifax: Sartorial Press Publication. p. 57
  6. Waugh, N. (2000). Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Routledge/Theatre Art Books, pp. 19-21
  7. Hart, A., North, S. (1998). Fashion In Detail. New York: Rizzoli International Publications Inc. p. 12
  8. Ambrose, B. H. (1997). The Little Corset Book. Holly- wood: Costume & Fashion Press
  9. Waugh, N. (2000). Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Routledge/Theatre Art Books, p. 37
  10. Waugh, N. (2000). Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Routledge/Theatre Art Books, p. 18
  11. Waugh, N. (2000). Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Routledge/Theatre Art Books, p. 20
  12. Waugh, N. (2000). Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Routledge/Theatre Art Books, p. 38
  13. Ambrose, B. H. (1997). The Little Corset Book. Holly- wood: Costume & Fashion Press, p. 34
  14. Waugh, N. (2000). Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Routledge/Theatre Art Books, p. 41
  15. Johnston, L. (2005). Nineteenth Century Fashion in Detail. London: V&A Publications, p. 144
  16. Waugh, N. (2000). Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Routledge/Theatre Art Books, p. 39
  17. Waugh, N. (2000). Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Routledge/Theatre Art Books., p. 40
  18. Waugh, N. (2000). Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Routledge/Theatre Art Books, p. 42
  19. Waugh, N. (2000). Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Routledge/Theatre Art Books, pp. 75-79
  20. Doyle, R. (1997). Waisted Effort. Halifax: Sartorial Press Publication., pp. 123-127
  21. Waugh, N. (2000). Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Routledge/Theatre Art Books, p.77
  22. Waugh, N. (2000). Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Routledge/Theatre Art Bookss., p. 78
  23. Waugh, N. (2000). Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Routledge/Theatre Art Bookss., p. 80
  24. Waugh, N. (2000). Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Routledge/Theatre Art Bookss., p. 81
  25. Kohler, C. (1968). A History of Costume. New York: Dover Publication, INC
  26. Steele, V. (2001). The Corset. Yale University Press
  27. Grimble, F. (2001). Reconstruction Era Fashions. San Fransico: Lavolta Press, p. 348
  28. Ambrose, B. H. (1997). The Little Corset Book. Holly- wood: Costume & Fashion Press, pp. 18-20
  29. Ambrose, B. H. (1997). The Little Corset Book. Holly- wood: Costume & Fashion Press., p. 86
  30. Ambrose, B. H. (1997). The Little Corset Book. Holly- wood: Costume & Fashion Press., p. 90
  31. Waugh, N. (2000). Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Routledge/Theatre Art Books, p. 87