Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Reliability of In Vitro Assay for Initial Depigmenting Agent Screening

미백제 선발을 위한 In Vitro 측정법의 신뢰도

  • Nguyen, Dung H. (NRL of Skin Bioactive Material, Department of Biological Engineering, Inha University) ;
  • Nguyen, Duc T.M. (NRL of Skin Bioactive Material, Department of Biological Engineering, Inha University) ;
  • La, Lyun Hwa (NRL of Skin Bioactive Material, Department of Biological Engineering, Inha University) ;
  • Lee, Hyang-Bok (NRL of Skin Bioactive Material, Department of Biological Engineering, Inha University) ;
  • Shin, Jung-Hyun (Department of Dermatology, Inha University Hospital) ;
  • Kim, Eun-Ki (NRL of Skin Bioactive Material, Department of Biological Engineering, Inha University)
  • 호앙구엔 (인하대학교 생명화학공학부, 피부신소재 국가지정연구실) ;
  • 민은엔 (인하대학교 생명화학공학부, 피부신소재 국가지정연구실) ;
  • 라련화 (인하대학교 생명화학공학부, 피부신소재 국가지정연구실) ;
  • 이향복 (인하대학교 생명화학공학부, 피부신소재 국가지정연구실) ;
  • 신정현 (인하대 의과대학 피부과) ;
  • 김은기 (인하대학교 생명화학공학부, 피부신소재 국가지정연구실)
  • Published : 2008.09.30
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Abstract

Initial screening assay for depigmenting agents includes in vitro mushroom tyrosinase assay and antioxidant assay. Based on this screening result, melanin synthesis in melanocyte, in screened samples, is further measured. Measuring cellular melanin needs time, human resource, and skills. Therefore initial screening method should be reliable. We examined, 34 Chinese herbs, correlated the screening assay methods with cellular melanin. No reliable relationship was observed between factors, indicating the limitation in the use of these assays, probably due to the complexicity of melanogenesis.

미백제를 선발하기 위해 주로 사용하는 현재의 방법은 in vitro 타이로시네이즈 활성 및 항산화능을 측정하는 것이다. 이 결과에 기초하여 다음 단계인 멜라노사이트에서의 멜라닌 생성량을 측정한다. 세포 내의 멜라닌 생성량 측정 법은 시간, 인력 및 숙련도가 요구된다. 따라서 초기 선발 방법의 신뢰성이 중요하다. 200개 중국시료 중 측정범위 내에서 세포독성이 없는 34개를 대상으로 세포 내 멜라닌량, 타이로시네이즈 활성, 항산화능의 상관관계를 조사하였다. 조사결과 직선의 상판관계를 확인할 수 없었다. 이 결과는 현재 선발방법의 한계 및 새로운 방법이 필요함을 보여주었다.

Keywords

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