Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Application as a Cosmeceutical Ingredient of Euryale ferox Seed Extract

가시연꽃 종자 추출물의 화장품 원료로서의 특성

  • Choo, Soo-Jin (National Cosmeceuticals Research Center, Korea Research Institute of Bioscience and Biotechnology) ;
  • Kim, Young-Hee (National Cosmeceuticals Research Center, Korea Research Institute of Bioscience and Biotechnology) ;
  • Ryoo, In-Ja (National Cosmeceuticals Research Center, Korea Research Institute of Bioscience and Biotechnology) ;
  • Xu, Guang-Hua (National Cosmeceuticals Research Center, Korea Research Institute of Bioscience and Biotechnology) ;
  • Yoo, Ick-Dong (National Cosmeceuticals Research Center, Korea Research Institute of Bioscience and Biotechnology)
  • 추수진 (한국생명공학연구원 기능성화장품신소재개발센터) ;
  • 김영희 (한국생명공학연구원 기능성화장품신소재개발센터) ;
  • 류인자 (한국생명공학연구원 기능성화장품신소재개발센터) ;
  • 허광화 (한국생명공학연구원 기능성화장품신소재개발센터) ;
  • 유익동 (한국생명공학연구원 기능성화장품신소재개발센터)
  • Published : 2009.12.30
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Abstract

In our search for the natural cosmetic ingredients, we found that Euryale ferox seed extract exhibited the strong antioxidative activity. Five active compounds were isolated from the ethyl acetate extract through various chromatographic methods and their structures were determined by NMR and MS spectral analysis. These compounds were identified as fucosterol (1), 3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzyl)-4-[(7'R),5'-dihydroxy-3'-methoxybenzyl]tetrahydrofuran (2), resorcinol (3), pyrogallol (4) and 4-O-methylgallic acid (5).We evaluated the antioxidative, antielastase activities and melanogenesis inhibitory effects of these compounds. The $SC_{50}$ values of compounds 2 ~ 5 for free radical scavenging activity were $17.0\;{\sim}\;100.2\;{\mu}M$ and especially compounds 4 and 5 were 6-fold more effective than ferulic acid as a positive control. And compounds 2 ~ 4 inhibited human neutrophil elastase with $IC_{50}$ values of $18.8\;{\sim}\;78.2\;{\mu}M$ and compound 3 also inhibited melanin synthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells with an $IC_{50}$ value of $492.8\;{\mu}M$. These results suggest that Euryale ferox extract having a lot of various active ingredients may be useful as a natural multi-functioning agent.

천연물로부터 새로운 기능성 화장품 소재를 개발하기 위하여 국내외 천연물을 대상으로 항산화 활성을 평가한 결과, 가시연꽃의 종자 추출물이 우수한 활성을 나타내는 것을 발견하였다. 가시연꽃 종자의 추출물로부터 유효 성분을 분리하기 위하여 각종 컬럼 크로마토그래피 및 HPLC 등의 기법을 실시하여 순수하게 정제된 화합물 5종을 획득하였다. 각종 NMR 및 MS 스펙트럼 등을 분석하여 이들의 화학구조를 규명한 결과 fucosterol (1), 3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzyl)-4-[(7'R),5'-dihydroxy-3'-methoxybenzyl]tetrahydrofuran (2), resorcinol (3), pyrogallol (4) and 4-O-methylgallic acid (5)로 동정하였다. 이들 화합물의 화장품 원료로서의 특징을 조사하고자 각 화합물들을 대상으로 항산화 활성, 엘라스타아제 저해활성, 미백활성 등을 평가하였다. 이들 화합물의 자유라디칼소거활성은 $SC_{50}$ 값이 $17.0\;{\sim}\;100.2\;{\mu}M$이었고, 특히 화합물 4 및 5는 양성대조구인 ferulic acid보다 6배 이상 강력한 활성을 나타내었다. 또한 엘라스타아제 저해활성에 대한 $IC_{50}$ 값은 $18.8\;{\sim}\;78.2\;{\mu}M$로써 특히 화합물 4는 양성대조구인 EGCG와 비슷한 활성을 나타내었으며, B16F10 멜라노마 세포를 이용한 멜라닌 생성 저해활성에 대해 화합물 3은 양성대조구인 arbutin보다 약 2배 이상 강력한 미백활성을 나타내었다. 따라서 가시연꽃 종자 추출물은 강력한 항산화활성, 엘라스타아제 저해활성 및 미백활성을 나타내는 유효성분들을 다량 함유하므로, 복합 기능성을 나타내는 화장품 원료로 사용할 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

Keywords

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