Abstract
In this study, we determine the stretch and shrinkage properties of conjugated yarns. The shrinkage(%) and elasticity(%) were determined by applying twist conditions of 0, 350, 800, 1000, 1200, 1400, 1600, 2000 T/M (twisting per meter). It is found that the shrinkage(%) and elasticity(%) gradually decreased with increasing T/M. Especially the elasticity(%) dramatically decreased over 1400 T/M condition. In contrast, it is showed that the handle and drapery properties decreased below 1000 T/M, which indicates that the optimal T/M condition could be 1000~1400. The effect of shrinkage(%) and elasticity(%) with different steam setting temperatures (60, 70, 80 and $90^{\circ}C$) was also determined. The shrinkage(%) decreased with increasing setting temperature, while the elasticity not changed. In this context, the optimal steam setting temperature could be $80^{\circ}C$ because it is not easy to weave with the yarns which was set below $80^{\circ}C$. The elasticity(%) decreased with increasing the density of warp and weft. To produce soft handle, excellent drapery and good stretch fabrics, the warp density needs to be reached by 90% of the ideal warp density. In the case of NaOH treatments to the fabrics, the elasticity(%) increased with increasing weight reduction. Therefore, this study have demonstrated that the conjugated yarns with core yarn and the SDY CD(cation dyeable spindraw yarn) as an effect yarn would be appropriate to produce excellent mixture-yarn, which displays clean appearance, good handle and excellent elasticity, The optimized conditions are as follows; 1000~1200 twist per meter, $80^{\circ}C$ steam setting temperature, 90% of ideal warp density and relaxation condition treated with 5g/l NaOH concentration.
