DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

A Study on the Court Dance Garments of the Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang, and Choehwamu

장생보연지무, 연백복지무, 제수창, 최화무 복식에 관한 연구

  • 남후선 (대경대학교 패션스페셜리스트과) ;
  • 김순영 (건국대학교 의상디자인 전공)
  • Received : 2013.06.27
  • Accepted : 2013.11.01
  • Published : 2013.12.31

Abstract

This study explores the types, shapes and changes of the court dance garments of mudong[child court dancer] and yeoryeong[female court dancer] for court dances such as Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang, and Choehwamu, and the arrangement of colors in their garments. The conclusion of the study is as follows: First, the type of garments of mudong varied according to the type of dance, role of mudong and passage of time. In all four jeongjae's, hongpo[red robe] and baekjilheukseonjungdaneui[white under garment trimmed in black] were commonly found. Second, the dress of yeoryeong in the Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang and Choehwamu was that of other yeoryeong, which was basically comprised of hwagwan[flower headdress], hwangchosam[yellow robe], hongchosang[red skirt] and sudae[embroidered belt]. Third, the color schemes of the court dance garments used in Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang and Choehwamu revealed that the color arrangement of sangsaeng [mutual generation] of the Ohaeng[Five Elements] scheme were favored in the garments of mudong and yeoryeong. The dress of mudong is characterized by sangsaeng between top and bottom, and between total and part, while the color scheme of the outer and inner was sanggeuk[mutual overcoming]. As for yeoryeong, the color arrangement was of sangsaeng in top and bottom, outer and inner, and total and part, but in the five-colored hansam[sleeve extension], both sangsaeng and sanggeuk were found.

Keywords

References

  1. 高宗壬寅進宴儀軌 [Gojong Imin Jinyeon Uigwe] (1902). Seoul National University Gyujanggak, Uigwe Digital Archive, Gyu14494. Retrieved April 19, 2013, from http://e-kyujanggak.snu.ac.kr
  2. 高宗壬辰進饌儀軌 [Gojong Imjin Jinchan Uigwe] (1892). Seoul National University Gyujanggak, Uigwe Digital Archive, Gyu14428. Retrieved April 19, 2013, from http://e-kyujanggak.snu.ac.kr
  3. 高宗丁亥進饌儀軌 [Gojong Jeonghae Jinchan Uigwe] (1887). Seoul National University Gyujanggak, Uigwe Digital Archive, Gyu14405. Retrieved April 19, 2013, from http://e-kyujanggak.snu.ac.kr
  4. Heo, Y. I. (2005). 한국 전통무용의 변천과 전승 [Transformation and transmission of the Korean traditional dances]. Seoul: Bogosa.
  5. 憲宗戊申進饌儀軌 [Heonjong Musin Jinchan Uigwe] (1848). Seoul National University Gyujanggak, Uigwe Digital Archive, Gyu14372. Retrieved April 19, 2013, from http://e-kyujanggak.snu.ac.kr
  6. Kim, G. S. (2005). 대한제국의 진연복식에 관한 연구 [A study on the royal banquet garment on the Korean Empire]. In Hangukhak Jungang Yeonguwon (Eds.), 조선후기 궁중연향문화, 3 [Royal banquet culture in the late Joseon dynasty, vol. 3] (pp. 236-321). Seoul: Minsokwon.
  7. Kim, J. S. (2004). 헌종무신진찬의궤 해제 [Commentary on the Heonjong Musin Jinchan Uigwe]. In Hanguk Yesul Jonghap Hakkyo Jeontong Yesulwon (Eds.), 헌종무신진찬의궤, 1 [Heonjong Musin Jinchan Uigwe, vol. 1]. Seoul: Minsokwon.
  8. Kim, J. S. (2007). 순조기축진찬의궤 해제 [Commentary on the Sunjo Gichuk Jinchan Uigwe]. In B. S. Song & J. S. Kim (Eds.), 순조기축진찬의궤, 1 [Sunjo Gichuk Jinchan Uigwe, vol. 1] (pp. 11-21). Seoul: Minsokwon.
  9. Lee, H. G., & Son, G. S. (2010a). 한국궁중무용총서, 10: 박접무, 연백복지무, 장생보연지무, 춘앵전 [A series of Korean court dances, vol 10: Bakjeobmu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jangsaengboyeon jimu, and Chunaengjeon]. Seoul: Bogosa.
  10. Lee, H. G., & Son, G. S. (2010b). 한국궁중무용총서, 9: 경풍도, 무산향, 첨수무, 심향춘, 제수창, 가인전목단 [A series of Korean court dances, vol 9: Gyeongpungdo, Musanhyang, Cheomsumu, Simhyangchun, Jesuchang, and Gainjeonmukdan]. Seoul: Bogosa.
  11. Lee, H. G. & Son, G. S. (2010c). 한국궁중무용총서, 11: 헌천화, 만수무, 최화무, 고구려무, 선유락 [A series of Korean court dances, vol 11: Heoncheonhwa, Mansumu, Choihwamu, Goguryeomu, Seonurak]. Seoul: Bogosa.
  12. 禮記 [Liji] (1998). (Seongkyungwan University Daedong Munhwa Yeonguwon, Reprint). Seoul: Seongkyungwan University Daedong Munhwa Yeonguwon.
  13. Mun, G. Y. (1973). 해동철학체계 [A system of Haedong philosophy]. Seoul: Sangdang Chulpansa.
  14. Nam, H. S. (1995). A study on the ritual dancing suit in the Korean royal court. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Yeongnam University, Daegu.
  15. Nam, H. S. (2000). A Study on the colors of court dancing suits in the latter period of Chosun dynasty: Centering around dances Yukhwadae, Musanhyang, Choonagengjeon. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 50(4), 73-87.
  16. Nam, H. S. (2003). A Study on the court dancing suits in the latter period of Chosun dynasty: Centering around dances Gainjeonmokdan, Goguryeomu, Gongmakmu, Mansumu. Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association, 5(1), 89-96.
  17. Nam, H. S., & Kim, S. Y. (2005). A Study on the colors of dancing suits in Bongraewoi, Hyangbalmu and Hakmu. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 55(6) extened version, 51-61.
  18. Nam, H. S., & Kim, S. Y. (2006). A study on the colors of dancing suits in Bosangmu, Cheomsumu, and Heoncheonhwa. Journal of the Korean Society for Clothing Industry, 8(2), 168-176.
  19. National Gugak Center (1981). 時用舞譜; 呈才舞圖笏記 [Siyong Mubo; Jeongjae Mudo Holgi]. Seoul: National Gugak Center.
  20. National Museum of Korea (2010). 조선시대 궁중행사도, 1 [Joseon paintings of court ceremonies, vol. 1]. Seoul: Natinoal Museum of Korea.
  21. National Museum of Korea (2012). 조선시대 궁중행사도, 3 [Joseon paintings of court ceremonies, vol. 3]. Seoul: Natinoal Museum of Korea.
  22. Seong, G. L. (1995). 한국전통무용 [Korean traditional dances]. Seoul: Iljisa.
  23. 純祖己丑進饌儀軌 [Sunjo Gichuk Jinchan Uigwe] (1829). Seoul National University Gyujanggak, Uigwe Digital Archive, Gyu14370. Retrieved April 19, 2013, from http://e-kyujanggak.snu.ac.kr
  24. 純祖戊子進爵儀軌 [Sunjo Muja Jinjak Uigwe] (1828). Seoul National University Gyujanggak, Uigwe Digital Archive, Gyu14364. Retrieved April 19, 2013, from http://e-kyujanggak.snu.ac.kr
  25. Yi, B. (1975). 규합총서 [Gyuhap Chongseo]. (Y. W. Jung, Trans.). Seoul: Bojinjae. (Original work published 1759)