Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition (한국식품영양과학회지)

The Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition (한국식품영양과학회)
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Effects of Ehwa Makgeolli Containing Oriental Herbs on Skin Whitening and Wrinkles

한방 이화주의 미백 및 피부 주름 개선 효과

  • Received : 2012.12.12
  • Accepted : 2013.01.16
  • Published : 2013.04.30
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Abstract

Extrinsic skin aging is characterized by the loss of skin tone and resilience, irregular pigmentation, and deep wrinkles. The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of Ehwa Makgeolli containing oriental herbs (Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisch., Lycium chinense MILL., Morus alba L., and Saururus chinensis Baill) on skin whitening and wrinkling in human skin cells. We prepared Makgeolli extracts (HEE) with 70% ethanol. HEE significantly inhibited in vitro mushroom tyrosinase activity and reduced the cellular and secreted melanin content of mouse melanoma melanocytes (B16F1 cells). HEE down-regulated the protein expression of tyrosinase related protein (TRP)-1/-2, a key player in melanogenesis. Treatment with HEE in human keratinoctyes (HaCaT cells) inhibited the proteolytic activities of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-2/-9 in a dose-dependent manner and dramatically reduced the expression of MMP-2/-9. In addition, HEE attenuated lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced nitric oxide production in murine macrophages (RAW264.7 cells). These results indicate that HEE may be a great cosmeceutical ingredient for its whitening, anti-wrinkle, and anti-inflammatory effects.

본 연구에서는 한방이화주의 피부 생리기능 활성을 알아보기 위해 70% EtOH 추출물의 피부 미백, 주름 개선 및 항염증 효과를 조사하였다. HEE은 tyrosinase 활성 억제 및 tyrosine을 기질로 melanin이 형성되는 pathway에 관여하는 주요한 인자인 TRP-1과 TRP-2를 저해하는 작용 기전을 통해 피부 색소침착의 주요 원인 물질인 melanin 생합성을 농도 의존적으로 저해하는 것을 확인하였다. HEE은 피부 진피 내 피부 탄력을 유지하는 elastin을 분해하는 효소인 elastase의 활성을 저해하였고, 피부의 keratinocyte가 생성 분비하는 MMP-2와 MMP-9의 단백질 발현과 proteolytic 활성을 억제하여 노화에 따른 피부 주름 생성 억제할 수 있는 가능성을 확인하였다. 또한 세포 독성 없이 LPS에 의해 유도된 염증 반응을 50% 저해하는 HEE의 농도($IC_{50}$)는 $24.9{\mu}g/mL$이며, $50{\mu}g/mL$ 농도로 처리하였을 때 염증 반응 저해 효과가 70%로 높은 효과를 가지는 것을 확인하였다. 이상의 결과를 종합하면 HEE의 피부 미백, 주름 개선 및 항염증에 우수한 효과를 나타내고 있으므로 기능성 화장품의 주요한 소재로 이용 가치가 높을 것으로 사료된다.

Keywords

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