DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Characteristics in the Lingerie Looks Designed by John Galliano

John Galliano 작품에 나타난 란제리룩의 특성

  • Kim, Sun Young (Department of Fashion Design, Sunchon National University)
  • Received : 2012.05.16
  • Accepted : 2012.09.03
  • Published : 2013.04.30

Abstract

This study aims at developing and producing the creative design of a lingerie look after reviewing the aesthetic value about lingerie look featured in John Galliano's works. As for the research method, the selection process from the works was followed together with literature review for empirical analysis over lingerie looks, where 2,764 pieces in total were reviewed from Galliano's Pret-a-Porter collections covering from 2001S/S until 2010F/W and Christian Dior's Haute Couture and Pret-a-Porter collections that he is in charge of as head designer and 291 pieces were finally singled out that show the lingerie look image well. Then, the formative expression was examined about those looks and the characteristics were induced from them. Formativeness expressed in Galliano's lingerie look, in term of lingerie style, was categorized as erotic, retro, and deconstructive. The glittering and smooth material like silk and satin, and the visible material like lace and chiffon were mainly used for material rather than foreign material. By doing so, the romantic and erotic image was highlighted. In the production method, it was grouped into transposition of wear, direct and indirect exposition, and deconstructive way. These aesthetic characteristics introduced by formative expression appeared in the form of eroticism, play, and deconstructiveness.

Keywords

References

  1. Ahn, S. R., & Kang, B. S. (2006). A study on the design characteristics of fun in modern fashion. Bulletin of Korean Society of Basic Design & Art, 7(2), 359-369.
  2. Bang, S. R. (2009). The works of John Galliano in haute couture. Journal of the Korean Society of Costumes, 59(5), 19-40.
  3. Bordo, S. (2004). Unbearable weight. (O. B. Park, Trans.). Seoul: Alternative Culture Press. (Original work published 1993)
  4. Calasibetta, C. M. (1988). Fairchild's dictionary of fashion. New York: Fairchild pub.
  5. Cho, Y. R., & Park, H. S. (2004). A study on the expressional method of the eroticism in clothing. Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion Design, 4(2), 47-61.
  6. Choi, E. H., & Song, M. R. (2001). Development of dress design using infra-syndrome. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 9(4), 549-561.
  7. Ga, J. C. (1995). Fashion designer199. Seoul: Jeong Eun Books.
  8. Gu, J. Y. (2004). A study on the aesthetic characteristic of the corset look in contemporary fashion. Unpublished master's thesis, Hongik University, Seoul, Korea.
  9. Jang, A. R. (2006). The comic expression depicted on John Galliano's works. Journal of the Korean Society of Costumes, 56(3), 129-142.
  10. Jin, K. O. (2005). The characteristics of modern fashion coordination in the John Galliano's fashion show. Journal of the Korean Society of Costumes, 55(6), 51-66.
  11. Jung, J. H., & Ko, H. Z. (2009). The study on the design identity of Dior fashion house. Journal of the Korean Society of Costumes, 59(6), 126-139.
  12. Kim, H. J., & Lim, Y. J. (1993). A study on the eroticism appearing in the fashion advertising of post-modernism. Journal of the Korean Society of Costumes, 21, 101-112.
  13. Kim, H. S., & Kim, H. R. (1990). Arts and philosophy. Seoul: Ewha Womans University Press.
  14. Kim, S. Y. (2008). Characteristics of corsets in modern fashion. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 16(5), 924-936.
  15. Kim, S. Y. (2008). A study of playfulness shown in the haute couture collections. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 16(3), 475-787.
  16. Kim, S. Y., & Lee, B. H. (2004). A study on the aesthetic consciousness for body expressed by modern fashion. Journal of the Korean Society of Costumes, 54(3), 129-143.
  17. Kim, S. Y., & Shim, J. Y. (2008). Intertextuality of materials in the contemporary fashion. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 32(5), 741-752. https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.5.741
  18. Ko, Y. A., & Choy, H. S. (2000). Fashion design for applying supra syndrome of corset. Journal of the Korean Society of Costumes, 50(4), 165-180.
  19. Kong, M. R. (2006). Inner wear design. Seoul: Gyeongchunsa.
  20. Kong, M. S., & Chae, K. S. (2003). Design originality of Christian Dior's haute couture. Journal of the Korean Society of Costumes, 53(2), 57-70.
  21. Lee, K. Y., & Cho, K. H. (2009). A study about the characteristics of designs in John Galliano collection. Journal of Fashion Business, 13(2), 50-65.
  22. Lee, S. H. (2009). A study on the body perception of modern fashion. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  23. Lee, S. R. (1997). The vogue about outwearization of underwear in a tendency to the century-end. Journal of the Korean Society of Costumes, 35, 325-341.
  24. Lim, S. M. (2004). The study of exposure and concealment in fashion: Focusing on the Freuds psychoanalysis. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 28(11), 1395-1403.
  25. Martin, R., & Koda, H. (1991). The body transformed, the metropolitan of art. New York: Yale university press.
  26. Mcdowell, C. (2000). Fashion today. London: Phaidon.
  27. Nam, M. H., & Lee, S. H. (2000). A study on underwear. Journal of the Korean Society of Costumes, 50(1), 129-144.
  28. Park, H. W. (1999). A study on the designs of John Galliano. Journal of Fashion Business, 3(2), 19-29.
  29. Rasara Educational Development. (1991). The illustrated dictionary of fashion. Seoul: Rasara Publishing Co.
  30. Shin, H. N., & Lee, M. S. (2010). Women's body in the fashion of John Galliano and Martin Margiela. Journal of the Korean Society of Costumes, 60(7), 14-30.
  31. Tucker, A. (1988). The london fashion book. London: Thames & Hudson.
  32. Willett, C., & Cunnington, P. (1992). The history of underclothes. London: Dover pub.
  33. Yoon, J. A., & Lee, M. H. (2006). Design analysis and apparel patternmaking of lingerie look. Journal of the Korean Society of Costumes, 56(7S), 152-166.