Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers (한국해안·해양공학회논문집)

Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers (한국해안·해양공학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Change of Nearshore Random Waves in Response to Sea-level Rise

해수면 상승에 따른 연안 지역 불규칙파의 변화

  • Cheon, Se-Hyeon (Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Seoul National University) ;
  • Suh, Kyung-Duck (Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering & Engineering Research Institute, Seoul National University)
  • 천세현 (서울대학교 건설환경공학부) ;
  • 서경덕 (서울대학교 건설환경공학부)
  • Received : 2013.07.16
  • Accepted : 2013.08.31
  • Published : 2013.08.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

In this study, a method has been developed for estimating the change of nearshore random waves in response to sea-level rise, by extending the method proposed for regular waves by Townend in 1994. The relative changes in wavelength, refraction coefficient, shoaling coefficient, and wave height for random waves are presented as functions of relative change in water depth. The changes in wavelength and refraction coefficient are calculated by using the significant wave period and principal wave direction in the regular-wave formulas. On the other hand, the changes in shoaling coefficient and wave height are calculated by using the formulas proposed for shoaling and transformation of random waves in the nearshore area including surf zone. The results are proposed in the form of both formulas and graphs. In particular, the relative change in wave height is compared with the result for regular waves.

1994년 Townend가 해수면 상승으로 인한 연안 지역의 파랑 특성 변화를 산정하는 방법을 규칙파에 대하여 제시한 바 있으며, 본 연구에서는 이를 불규칙파로 확장하였다. 수심변화율에 따른 불규칙파의 파장, 굴절계수, 천수계수, 그리고 파고 등의 변화율을 계산하였다. 파장 및 굴절계수의 변화율은 규칙파 공식에 유의파 주기와 주파향을 사용하여 계산하였다. 한편, 천수계수와 파고의 변화율 산정을 위해서는 쇄파대를 포함한 연안 지역에서의 불규칙파의 천수 및 파랑 변형 계산을 위해 제안된 공식을 사용하였다. 각 결과는 식과 그래프의 형태로 제안되었으며 파고의 경우 규칙파에 대한 결과와 비교하였다.

Keywords

References

  1. Burgess, K. and Townend, I. (2004). The impact of climate change upon coastal defence structures. 39th Defra flood and coastal management conference, 29, 11.2.1-11.2.14.
  2. Chini, N. and Stansby, P. K. (2012). Extreme values of coastal wave overtopping accounting for climate change and sea level rise. Coastal Engineering, 65, 27-37. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.02.009
  3. Goda, Y. (1975a). Deformation of irregular waves due to depthcontrolled wave breaking. Report of Port and Harbour Research Institute, 14(3), PHRI, Japan (in Japanese).
  4. Goda, Y. (1975b). Irregular wave deformation in the surf zone. Coastal Engineering in Japan, 18, 13-25.
  5. Houghton, J. T. (1996). Climate change 1995: The science of climate change: Contribution of working group i to the second assessment report of the intergovernmental panel on climate change. Cambridge University Press.
  6. Iwagaki, Y., Shiota, K. and Doi, H. (1982). Shoaling and refraction coefficients of finite amplitude waves. Coastal Engingeering in Japan, 25, 25-35, (in Japanese).
  7. Klein, R. J., Smit, M. J., Goosen, H. and Hulsbergen, C. H. (1998). Resilience and vulnerability: Coastal dynamics or dutch dikes? Geographical Journal, 259-268.
  8. Kweon, H.-M. and Goda, Y. (1996). A parametric model for random wave deformation by breaking on arbitrary beach profiles. Proceedings of 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, Orlando, 261-274.
  9. Lee, C.-E., Kim, S.-W., Park, D.-H. and Suh, K.-D. (2013). Risk assessment of wave run-up height and armor stability of inclined coastal structures subject to long-term sea level rise. Ocean Engineering, (in press).
  10. Marchetti, C. (1977). On geoengineering and the co2 problem. Climatic change, 1(1), 59-68. https://doi.org/10.1007/BF00162777
  11. Marland, G., Boden, T. A., Andres, R. J., Brenkert, A. and Johnston, C. (2003). Global, regional, and national fossil fuel co2 emissions. Trends: A compendium of data on global change, 34-43.
  12. Okayasu, A. and Sakai, K. (2006). Effect of sea level rise on sliding distance of a caisson breakwater-optimization with probabilistic design method. Proceedings of 30th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, Singapore, 30, 4883-4893.
  13. Reeve, D. (2010). On the impacts of climate change for port design. Proceedings of 26th International Conference for Seaports & Maritime Transport.
  14. Schneider, S. H. and Chen, R. S. (1980). Carbon dioxide warming and coastline flooding: Physical factors and climatic impact. Annual Review of Energy, 5(1), 107-140. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev.eg.05.110180.000543
  15. Stern, N. (2006). Review on the economics of climate change. London HM Treasury.
  16. Suh, K. D., Kim, S. W., Mori, N. and Mase, H. (2012). Effect of climate change on performance-based design of caisson breakwaters. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 138(3), 215-225. https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000126
  17. Sutherland, J. and Wolf, J. (2002). Coastal defence vulnerability 2075. HR Wallingford Limited.
  18. Takagi, H., Kashihara, H., Esteban, M. and Shibayama, T. (2011). Assessment of future stability of breakwaters under climate change. Coastal Engineering Journal, 53(01), 21-39. https://doi.org/10.1142/S0578563411002264
  19. Torresan, S., Critto, A., Dalla Valle, M., Harvey, N. and Marcomini, A. (2008). Assessing coastal vulnerability to climate change: Comparing segmentation at global and regional scales. Sustainability Science, 3(1), 45-65. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11625-008-0045-1
  20. Townend, I. (1994a). Risk assessment of coastal defences. Proceeding of Institution of Civil Engineers, 106(4), 4.
  21. Townend, I. (1994b). Variation in design conditions in response to sea-level rise. Proceeding of Institution of Civil Engineers, 106(3), 9.
  22. Townend, I. and Burgess, K. (2004). Methodology for assessing the impact of climate change upon coastal defence structures. Proceedings of 29th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, 29, 3953-3965.
  23. Weggel, R. J. (1972). Maximum breaker height. Journal of the Waterways, Harbors and Coastal Engineering Division, 98(4), 529-548.
  24. Wigley, T. M. (2009). The effect of changing climate on the frequency of absolute extreme events. Climatic Change, 97(1-2), 67-76. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10584-009-9654-7

Cited by

  1. Analysis of Littoral Currents by the Coupled Hydrodynamic Model vol.20, pp.2, 2014, https://doi.org/10.7837/kosomes.2014.20.2.247