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Algorithm of Predicting Swell-like Significant Waves in the East Coast of Korea

동해안 너울성 고파 예측 알고리즘

  • 안석진 ((주)지오시스템리서치) ;
  • 이병욱 (세종대학교 건설환경공학과) ;
  • 권석재 (국립해양조사원 해양과학조사연구실) ;
  • 이창훈 (세종대학교 건설환경공학과)
  • Received : 2013.07.02
  • Accepted : 2013.10.01
  • Published : 2013.11.30

Abstract

In this study, we develop an algorithm to predict swell-like significant waves in the east coast of Korea using the directional wave gauge which is installed near Sokcho. Using the numerical wave model SWAN, we estimate wave data in open sea from the wave data observed through the directional wave gauge. Then, using the wave ray method with the open-sea wave data as offshore boundary conditions, we predict the swell-like significant waves at several points in the east coast of Korea. We verify the prediction methods with the SWAN and wave ray methods by comparing numerically predicted data against either target or measured data at the observation site. We can improve the prediction of the swell-like significant waves in the east sea of Korea using both the real-time wave measurement system and the present prediction algorithm.

본 연구에서는 속초 인근에 설치된 파향 파고계로 관측되는 파랑 자료를 이용하여 동해안 주요지역에 너울성 고파를 예측할 수 있는 알고리즘을 개발하였다. SWAN 모형을 이용하여 연안의 파랑 관측 자료로부터 고파 발생지로 추정되는 외해지점의 파랑 제원을 추정하였다. 그리고, 추정된 파랑 제원을 경계조건으로 하여 파향선 추적법을 사용하여 동해안 주요 지점의 너울성 고파를 예측하였다. 관측지점에서 SWAN 모형과 파향선 추적법에서 예측되는 파랑 제원을 가상의 설정값 또는 관측값과 비교하여 예측알고리즘의 정확성을 검증하였다. 동해안 실시간 파랑관측시스템과 본 연구결과를 활용하면 동해안 너울성 고파의 예측을 향상시킬 수 있다.

Keywords

References

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