Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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A Study of the Stability and Moisturizing Effect of Non-Animal Cholesteric Liquid Crystal

비동물성 콜레스테릭 액정의 안정성과 보습효능에 관한 연구

  • 우병영 ((주)아모레퍼시픽 기술연구원) ;
  • 민대진 ((주)아모레퍼시픽 기술연구원) ;
  • 백홍수 ((주)아모레퍼시픽 기술연구원) ;
  • 김신형 ((주)아모레퍼시픽 기술연구원) ;
  • 황준영 ((주)아모레퍼시픽 기술연구원) ;
  • 박영호 ((주)아모레퍼시픽 기술연구원) ;
  • 이존환 ((주)아모레퍼시픽 기술연구원) ;
  • 신송석 ((주)아모레퍼시픽 기술연구원)
  • Received : 2013.10.31
  • Accepted : 2014.01.06
  • Published : 2014.06.30
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Abstract

This study is about the development of cholesteric liquid crystals (CLCs), which are highly applicable to cosmetics formulation. The CLCs made from non-animal origin were chosen not only because they are free of animal viruses but also because they give a sense of security to the cosmetic consumers. Three kinds of new cholesteric derivatives (CI, CC, CN) were synthesized using non-animal cholesterol [NAB cholesterol (ARCH LONZA)], which was originally made by fermentation process. To develop high applicability to cosmetics formulation, we attempted to find out the optimum compositions in which CLCs can maintain their color over a wide range of temperature. The CLCs in 41 different compositions were prepared by the combinations of three cholesteric derivatives and a visual evaluation method was employed to determine the range of temperature at which the CLCs display their color. The 205 UV-VIS spectral data obtained from 41 CLCs at various temperatures were simultaneously analyzed to investigate the critical factors affecting the characteristics of the CLCs. Results showed that A4, A5, A6 and A7 were the best compositions to cosmetics formulation. A6 composition had a great moisturizing effect by the artificial skin test ($AmoReSkin^{TM}$).

본 연구는 화장품 제형 적용성이 높은 콜레스테릭 액정(CLCs) 개발에 관한 것이다. 비동물성 원료는 동물성 바이러스 감염 이슈로부터 자유롭고 화장품 소비자들에게 안심감을 줄 수 있기 때문에 비동물성 유래로부터 콜레스테릭 액정연구를 진행하였다. 따라서 발효로부터 만들어진 비동물성 콜레스테롤[NAB cholesterol (ARCH LONZA)]을 이용하여 3 가지 새로운 콜레스테릭 유도체(CI, CC, CN)를 합성하였다. 그리고 제형 적용성이 높은 콜레스테릭 액정개발을 위해서 넓은 온도범위에서 발색을 유지하는 최적 조성연구를 진행하였다. 콜레스테릭 액정은 3 가지 유도체를 조합하여 41개의 액정을 제조하고 온도에 따른 육안평가를 통해서 색을 나타내는 범위를 평가하였다. 제조된 41개의 액정을 온도에 따라 UV-VIS 스펙트럼을 동시에 분석할 수 있는 새로운 평가법을 사용하였으며 205개의 스펙트럼 분석하고 액정에 영향을 미치는 인자와 특성을 파악하였다. 위와 같은 결과를 토대로 제형적용성이 높은 비동물성 콜레스테릭 액정 A4, A5, A6, A7의 조성을 개발하였다. 또한 인공피부를 이용한 평가를 통하여 A6 조성의 뛰어난 피부 보습효능을 확인하였다.

Keywords

References

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