Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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A Study of Cosmetic Sustainability Evaluation of Powder Base Make-up Products

파우더 베이스 메이크업 제품의 지속성 평가 방법 연구

  • Lee, Sang Gil (Cosmetic Research Institute, Hanbul Cosmetics Co. Ltd.) ;
  • Kim, Ki Jung (Cosmetic Research Institute, Hanbul Cosmetics Co. Ltd.) ;
  • Kim, Young Ho (Cosmetic Research Institute, Hanbul Cosmetics Co. Ltd.) ;
  • Pyo, Hyeong Bae (Cosmetic Research Institute, Hanbul Cosmetics Co. Ltd.) ;
  • Lee, Dong Kyu (Department of Industrial Chemistry, College of Engineering, Chungbuk National University)
  • 이상길 (한불화장품(주) 화장품연구소) ;
  • 김기중 (한불화장품(주) 화장품연구소) ;
  • 김영호 (한불화장품(주) 화장품연구소) ;
  • 표형배 (한불화장품(주) 화장품연구소) ;
  • 이동규 (충북대학교 공과대학 공업화학과)
  • Received : 2015.09.21
  • Accepted : 2015.09.26
  • Published : 2015.09.30
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Abstract

Once powder base makeup products are applied to the skin, the products are formed a film and attached on the skin for 8 to 12 hours. The makeup film is deformed by secretions such as sweat and sebum secreted from the skin. Thus, durability of the film is an important quality factor in the makeup and its evaluation is also important. In this study, characteristics of the semi-finished powder products such as water absorption, oil absorption, water repellent and oil repellent were evaluated in a number of ways. Also, simple methods, which are not affected by evaluation conditions such as a difference between sweat and sebum secretion, temperature and humidity, were examined to predict the durability of the products. We measured water absorption, oil absorption, water repellent and oil-repellent properties of semifinished product by tablet, capillary and dipping method and then compared with the data of color difference meter and ROBO skin analyzer. Results showed that the durability of powder base makeup products was associated with more oil absorption and water-repellent characteristics than water absorption and oil-repellent. Oil absorption characteristics by tablet and capillary method and water-repellent characteristics by dipping method provides a simple and quick method to precdict the durability of the makeup products.

파우더 베이스 메이크업 제품은 피부에 도포되어 8 ~ 12시간 동안 부착되며 피부에서 분비되는 땀이나 피지 등의 분비물에 의해 화장막이 변화된다. 따라서 메이크업 화장의 지속성은 중요한 품질 요소 중 하나이며 평가도 중요하다. 본 연구는 파우더 제품에서 지속성 평가를 위해 여러 가지 방법으로 파우더 반제품의 흡수, 흡유, 발수, 발유 등의 특성을 측정해보고 객관적인 평가 방법과 비교하여 연관성을 확인하여 지속성 평가 시 중요한 파우더의 특성을 살펴보았다. 또한 평가조건(땀과 피지 분비량 차이, 기온 및 습도 등)에 크게 영향을 받지 않으면서 지속성을 예측할 수 있는 간단한 방법을 검토해보았다. 타정 흡유도와 모세관법 및 침지법 등으로 반제품의 흡수, 흡유, 발수, 발유 특성을 측정해본 후 색차계와 ROBO skin analyzer 데이터와 비교하였다. 그 결과 흡수, 발유 특성보다는 흡유와 발수 특성이 지속성과의 연관성이 크다는 것을 확인할 수 있었고 흡유, 발수 특성을 확인하는 것으로 빠르고 손쉽게 지속성에 대한 예측이 가능하리라 생각되었다. 그 중 흡유 특성은 타정 흡유도와 모세관법이, 발수 특성은 침지법이 지속성에 대한 상대평가 방법으로 유용할 것이라고 판단되었다.

Keywords

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