Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Study on the Bioactive Characteristics of Morinda citrifolia as a Cosmetic Raw Material

화장품 소재로서의 노니 추출물에 관한 특성연구

  • Kim, Seung-Heui (Department of Bioengineering, Graduate School of Konkuk University) ;
  • JANG, HYE-JIN (Department of Bioengineering, Graduate School of Konkuk University)
  • 김승희 (건국대학교 일반대학원 생물공학과) ;
  • 장혜진 (건국대학교 일반대학원 생물공학과)
  • Received : 2016.03.15
  • Accepted : 2016.05.27
  • Published : 2016.06.30
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Abstract

This study attempted to investigate the possibility of the use of Morinda citrifolia (MC) as a cosmetic ingredient from its physiological activities such as antioxidant activity, cytotoxicity and anti-aging effect. MC is a tropical plant that has been used as traditional polynesian foods and medicines for over two thousand years. It has been reported that this shrub can improve antimicrobial, anti-cancer and anti-inflammatory effects and strengthen an immune system. The in vitro antioxidant activity of MC was performed to see the DPPH scavenging activity by measuring total polyphenol content and total flavonoid content. As a result, a lack of any cytotoxicity was confirmed in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) cell. When MC extract at a concentration of over $50{\sim}100{\mu}g/mL$ was added, MMP-1 expression considerably diminished. In an in vivo test, in addition, cream containing MC extract was prepared and applied to a total of 22 women in their 30 ~ 50s in ages in the morning and in the evening for four weeks. Changes in keratin, melanin index, pore, skin color and wrinkles under the naked eyes were then comparatively measured. Keratin levels slightly increased in the control group but decreased in the experimental group. In addition, wrinkles diminished in the experimental group. This study found that MC extract controls many MMP-1 related mechanisms with great potential for use as a natural ingredient of anti-aging cosmetics.

본 연구에서는 노니(Morinda citrifolia, MC)의 항산화력, 세포독성, 항노화 효과 등 생리활성을 규명하여 화장품 제제로써의 응용 가능성을 연구해 보고자 하였다. 노니는 열대성 식물로서 2000년 넘게 폴리네시아인들의 식량과 민간요법제로 사용되어 왔으며 항균성, 항암, 항염증, 면역력을 높일 수 있다고 보고되고 있다. DPPH 소거능에 대한 in vitro 노니 추출물의 항산화 활성은 총 폴리페놀 함량과 총 플라보노이드 함량 측정을 통하여 알아보았다. 항노화 작용에서 HDF 세포에 대한 세포독성이 없음을 확인하였고, $50{\sim}100{\mu}g/mL$ 이상의 노니 추출물 첨가 시 MMP-1 발현이 뚜렷이 감소되었음을 확인하였다. 또한 in vivo 실험에서는 노니 추출물을 함유한 크림을 제조하여 30 ~ 50대 여성 22명을 대상으로 4주간 아침 저녁으로 도포하게 한 후 각질함량, 멜라닌 지수, 모공수, 피부색상 및 눈밑 주름수의 변화를 비교 측정하였다. 그 결과로 각질함량은 대조군 그룹(control group)에서는 다소 증가한 반면에 노니 함유 크림 그룹(experimental group)에서는 감소한 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 또한 눈밑 주름수의 변화에서 노니 함유 크림 그룹에서만 제품 사용 4주후 주름수가 감소하였다. 이상의 결과로 노니 추출물은 많은 MMP-1 발현 메커니즘을 제한하며, 천연 항노화 화장품 제제로서 고무적인 가능성을 기대해 보고자 한다.

Keywords

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