Science of Emotion and Sensibility (감성과학)

Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility (한국감성과학회)
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Physical Colorimetric Properties and Psychological Sensibility Factor of Naturally Dyed Fabrics

천연염색직물의 물리적 색채 특성과 심리적 감성 요인

  • Lee, Eu-Gene (Department of Clothing and Textiles, Yonsei University) ;
  • Lee, Kyung-hyun (Department of Clothing and Textiles, Yonsei University) ;
  • Cho, Gil-Soo (Department of Clothing and Textiles, Yonsei University)
  • 이유진 (연세대학교 생활과학대학 의류환경학과) ;
  • 이경현 (연세대학교 생활과학대학 의류환경학과) ;
  • 조길수 (연세대학교 생활과학대학 의류환경학과)
  • Received : 2014.07.02
  • Accepted : 2016.04.27
  • Published : 2016.09.30
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Abstract

This study is aimed to measure the physical colorimetric property according to three conditions, natural dyestuffs (Gardenia, Sappan wood, Lac, Gardenia blue, Mugwort, and Indigo), fabric types (cotton, silk), and presence of mordant (without, with), and then to evaluate the psychological sensibility. Also, to perform analysis of variance (ANOVA) to find out the differences of physical properties according to the three natural dyeing conditions, and to analyze the relationship between physical property and psychological property by Pearson's correlation analysis and then suggest the prediction model by regression analysis using SPSS program (ver. 21.0). Finally, to propose a certain sensibility image map of naturally dyed fabrics, MDS (Multidimensional Scaling) was used, and as a result, Gardenia dyed fabrics having the color sensibilities such as 'hard' and 'heavy' were suggested to evoke masculine image, and to evoke feminine image, Sappan wood and Lac having 'bright', 'transparent', 'soft' and 'light' sensibilities were suggested. Natural image might be induced by using 'subdued' Mugwort dyed fabrics, and active image might be induced by using 'showy' Indigo dyed fabric.

본 연구에서는 천연염료와 직물종류, 매염유무의 세 가지 조건에 대한 천연염색직물의 물리적 색채 특성을 측정하고, 심리적 색채감성평가를 실시하였다. 이에 대하여 염료의 종류, 직물의 종류, 매염제의 유무에 따른 물리적 색채 특성 차이를 살펴보기 위하여 분산분석을 실시하였으며, 상관관계분석을 통해 물리적 색채 특성과 심리적 감성간의 관계를 분석하고, 회귀분석을 이용해 천연염색에 대한 예측식을 도출하였다. 최종적으로, 천연염색직물에 대한 감성 이미지 맵을 제안하기 위하여 다차원 척도법(Multidimensional Scaling: MDS)을 이용하였다. 이를 통해, 대표적으로 남성적인(masculine)인 이미지에는 무거운, 딱딱한 색채감성을 갖는 치자염색이, 여성스러운(feminine) 이미지에는 밝고 투명하고 부드러우면서 가벼운 색채감성을 갖는 소목과 락, 치자청을 사용한 염색이 적합하다. 내츄럴(natural)한 이미지를 나타내기 위해서는 은은한 색채감성의 쑥 염색이 적절하고, 화려한 색채감성의 쪽으로 염색을 한다면 액티브(active)한 이미지를 가질 수 있을 것이라 예측 가능하다.

Keywords

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