Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Anti-aging Effects of Rosa damascena Extract Containing Low Molecular Glycoprotein

저분자 당단백을 함유하는 다마스크 장미추출물의 항노화 효과

  • Received : 2018.02.28
  • Accepted : 2018.03.24
  • Published : 2018.03.31
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Abstract

In this study, we investigated the anti-aging effect of Rosa damascena extract containing low molecular glycoprotein (RELG) converted from the high molecular glycoprotein by bioconversion. Free radical scavenging activities were performed by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay. Antioxidant activities ($IC_{50}$) of RELG and the positive control ascorbic acid were $22.6{\mu}g/mL$ and $21.1{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. For skin cells, $15{\mu}g/mL$ RELG showed 28% antioxidant activity by inhibiting the production of active oxygen species induced by ultraviolet ray and hydrogen peroxide. $15{\mu}g/mL$ RELG prevented 10% the cell death caused by stress in human hair follicle dermal papilla cells (HDPC) and reduced 90% the production of active oxygen species. In addition, the glycoprotein showed not only anti-wrinkle effect but also moisturizing effect by 48% inhibition of matrix metallo proteinase-1 (MMP-1) production by ultraviolet stress and $10{\mu}g/mL$ RELG enhanced 10% neutral lipid synthesis with 44% aquaporin 3 (AQP3) expression, which is moisture factor. In conclusion, the RELG can be used as an anti-aging cosmetic material.

본 연구에서는 다마스크 장미 내 고분자 당단백을 bioconversion 기술을 이용하여 저분자화한 다마스크 장미추출물(Rosa damascena extract containing low molecular glycoprotein, RELG)의 항노화 효능을 측정하였다. DPPH 라디칼 소거능을 이용한 RELG의 항산화능 평가($IC_{50}$)는 $22.6{\mu}g/mL$으로 양성대조군인 ascorbic acid $21.1{\mu}g/mL$와 비교하여 비슷한 수준의 항산화능을 나타내었고 피부세포실험에서는 $15{\mu}g/mL$에서 자외선과 $H_2O_2$에 의한 활성산소 생성을 28% 억제하였다. 또한 같은 농도에서 자외선에 의한 콜라겐 분해효소(MMP-1)의 생성을 48% 억제하고 $10{\mu}g/mL$에서 대조군 대비 보습인자인 aquaporin 3 (AQP3)의 발현을 44%, 중성지질 생합성을 10% 촉진하여 항주름 효능과 더불어 보습효능까지 나타냈다. 추가적으로 두피 모유두세포에서는 스트레스로 인한 세포사멸을 $15{\mu}g/mL$에서 10% 억제하고 활성산소의 생성을 90% 감소시켰다. 본 연구 결과, RELG는 효과적인 항노화 화장품 소재임을 확인하였다.

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