Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Effect of Isoquercitrin-containing Nelumbo nucifera Leaves Extract on Skin Wrinkle Improvement

Isoquercitrin 함유 연꽃잎 추출물의 피부주름개선 효능 연구

  • Received : 2018.05.30
  • Accepted : 2018.06.25
  • Published : 2018.06.30
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Abstract

In this study, we conducted research to find anti-wrinkle skin care ingredients from natural sources via the measurement of procollagen type 1 levels in the medium of normal human dermal fibroblast (NHDF) and found that a Nelumbo nucifera leave extract (NLE) was as the best effective ingredient. By the high performance liquid chromatography analysis, we confirmed isoquercitrin was one of the main compounds of NLE. Moreover, it also increased the procollagen type 1 production without cytotoxicity of NHDF. NLE and isoquercitrin exerted free radical scavenging activity. Especially, isoquercitrin exhibited strong intracellular antioxidant capacity in human skin-derived cells, HaCaT and NHDF. Finally, we performed clinical test for the inhibitory effect of NLE on skin wrinkle formation. A randomized study was conducted in 22 healthy female volunteers, aged between 30 and 65 yrs, with moderate to moderately severe facial wrinkles. Volunteer applied a 1.7% NLE cream (isoquercitrin 51 ppm) and a control cream at each facial side (left/right) twice daily for 8 weeks. The 1.7% NLE cream improved skin roughness through reducing the wrinkle of the craw's feet significantly without any skin side effect. Our results demonstrate that NLE and isoquercitrin can increase the collagen production and exert antioxidant activity. Therefore, we expect that the new non-toxic herbal extract, isoquercitrin-containing NLE will be interesting natural ingredient of cosmetics with anti-wrinkle efficacy.

본 연구에서는 제1형 프로콜라겐 분비량 측정을 통해 피부 주름개선 효과가 있는 천연물을 검색하던 중, 연꽃잎추출물(Nelumbo nucifera leaves extract, NLE)이 가장 우수한 효능을 나타냄을 확인하였다. 고압액체크로마토그래피로 NLE를 분석한 결과 isoquercitrin이 함유되어 있었으며, isoquercitrin도 normal human dermal fibroblast (NHDF)에서 제1형 프로콜라겐의 분비를 촉진한다는 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 또한 NLE와 isoquercitrin은 자유 라디컬 소거 활성을 가지고 있었으며, 특히 isoquercitrin은 인간 피부유래 세포주인 HaCaT 및 NHDF에서 활성산소종의 생성을 억제하고 총항산화능을 증가시켰다. 최종적으로 본 연구팀은 isoquercitrin의 함유량을 높이기 위해 정제한 NLE를 1.7% 함유한 크림(isoquercitrin 51 ppm 함유)을 제조하여 눈가의 주름개선 효과를 평가하였다. 30 ~ 65세의 한국인 여성 22명을 대상으로 얼굴의 한쪽 면엔 NLE 함유 크림을, 그리고 다른 한쪽 면엔 대조제품을 매일 2회씩, 8주간 연속 사용하도록 하였다. 그 결과 NLE 함유크림을 사용하였을 때 피부자극이 발견되지 않았으며, 대조제품과 비교하여 통계적 유의성 있게 눈가의 주름을 감소시키는 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 본 연구결과는 NLE 및 isoquercitrin이 우수한 콜라겐 생성 촉진 및 항산화 효능을 가지며, isoquercitrin 함유 NLE는 안전한 천연 주름개선 화장품 소재로 적용 가능하다는 것을 시사한다.

Keywords

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