The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (복식문화연구)

The Costume Culture Association (복식문화학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

A comparative study on Chinese batik of Miao and Buyi in GuiZhouSheng

중국 귀주성의 묘족과 포의족의 납염 비교 연구

  • Meng, Yu (Dept. of Fashion Design Information, Chungbuk National University) ;
  • Choi, Jongmyoung (Dept. of Fashion Design Information, Chungbuk National University) ;
  • Kim, Jiyoung (Dept. of Fashion Design Information, Chungbuk National University)
  • 멍위 (충북대학교 패션디자인정보학과) ;
  • 최종명 (충북대학교 패션디자인정보학과) ;
  • 김지영 (충북대학교 패션디자인정보학과)
  • Received : 2018.07.05
  • Accepted : 2018.08.03
  • Published : 2018.08.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to comparatively examine techniques and expressive characteristics of batik by focusing on the work of DanZhai and that of ZhenNing Buyi. We collected 50 pieces of batik each from Miao and Buyi in Chinese GuiZhouSheng and then analyzed their colors and patterns. The findings show that most of Miao's batik had deep and soft tones, while that of Buyi most often had blackish tone since the number of dyes in the latter is higher than that in the former. Miao often used patterns expressing animals or animals and plants, while Buyi frequently used geometric ones. An examination of specific motifs demonstrated that butterflies, fish, and flowers were most often used by Miao, while dots, vortexes, lines, and lozenges were frequently utilized by Buyi. For expressive techniques, both Miao and Buyi commonly used simple stylized expression or complex expression combining stylized and geometric techniques. Maio's motifs were often decoratively expressed with delicate curves, while Buyi's motifs had simple structures, so pictures were neatly expressed with thick lines and wide and simple planes. For the composition of the motifs, incomplete symmetry between top and bottom and between left and right often appeared in Maio, while in Buyi complete symmetry was frequently shown.

Keywords

References

  1. Chen, Y. C. (2007). 中国苗族文化的民族学研究 [An ethnological study of Chinese Miao ethnic culture]. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Minzu University of China, Beijing, China.
  2. Chun, H.-S., Bai, J., & Kim, H.-S. (2007). A study on the women's costume of red Miao in Guizhou China (I): Comparing with the costume of red Miao between modern and the Quing Dynasty(淸代). Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 10(3), 101-116.
  3. Color & Design Institute & Union Color Tech. (n.d.). KS 표준색 C&D 155b [KS Standard Color C & D colors-155b]. Seoul: Korea Color Design Institute.
  4. He, C., & Yang, W. B. (2009). 中华锦绣 贵州蜡染 [Guizhou Batik]. Suzhou: Suzhou University Press.
  5. Hyun, S. H., & Bae, S. J. (2007). Development of textile design for fashion cultural products: Focusing on traditional Korean patterns. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 31(6), 985-996. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2007.31.6.985
  6. Jia, J. S. (2013). 中国现代民间手工蜡染工艺文化研究 [Research on Chinese modern folk handicraft batik culture]. Beijing: Tsinghua University Press.
  7. Jung, J. N. (2007). 중국 소수민족 연구: 소수민족으로 분석하는 중국 [Chinese minority studies]. Paju: Korean Studies Information.
  8. Kim, H.-S. (1998). A study on the formativeness of the pattern in the Miao costume in China. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 1(2), 83-102.
  9. Kim, H.-S. (2009). A study on pattern of the Miao costume in China: Focusing on the paraffin dyeing embroidery weaving. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 12(2), 31-42.
  10. Kim, H. S., & Lim, Y. J. (1998). A study on the costume of the Miao Tribe in China: Focusing on 湘西 style and 黔束 style in female costume. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 36, 77-95.
  11. Kim, S.-Y. (2013). Tradition and transformation of batik in Indonesia. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 37(5), 676-690. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2013.37.5.676
  12. Kim, Y.-D. (1992). A study on the moulding expression of batik. 기전여자전문대학 논문집 [Kijeon Women's College Collection of Papers], 12, 107-127.
  13. Kim, Y.-S. (2010). A study on Miao people batik dyeing of Guizhou province in China. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 13(2), 63-79.
  14. Kim, Y.-S., & Hong, J.-M. (1999). A study on traditional costume of China's Guizhou province: Focusing on Bouyei people. Journal of Fashion Business, 3(3), 49-57.
  15. Korea Dictionary Research Publishing. (Ed.). (1998). Dictionary of art. Seoul: Author.
  16. Lee, D. (2015). Buyi batik research and innovative in fashion design. Unpublished master's thesis, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, Beijing, China.
  17. Lee, E. O. (2007). A study on the classification in Korean textile design. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 13(3), 271-280.
  18. Lee, K. H., Yoon, J. W., & Han, J. A. (2007). The development of contemporary fashion designs specialized in the traditional costume of the Miao. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 15(5), 902-915. https://doi.org/10.29049/rjcc.2007.15.5.902
  19. Lee, K. S. (1994). 텍스타일 프린트 디자인 [Textile print design]. Seoul: Hyeonamsa.
  20. Lee, M. J. (2008). A study on Miao batik (The art of crafts) in Guizhou China. Unpublished master's thesis, Sookmyung Women's University, Seoul, Korea.
  21. Lee, M. J., & Sohn, H. S. (2011a). A study on the efficacy and the formative characteristics of Danzhai Miao batik of Guizhou China. Journal of Fashion Business, 15(2), 23-38.
  22. Lee, M.-J., & Sohn, H.-S. (2011b). Research on dyeing crafts of Chinese indigo dyed designs. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 19(2), 376-388.
  23. Lim, S. Y. (2014). A study on textile pattern design development method applying one unit. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 20(4), 581-590.
  24. Ma, Z. R. (2003). 民族民间艺术瑰宝: 贵州蜡染 [Batik of Guizhou China]. Guizhou: GuiZhou Nationalities Press.
  25. Park, H.-J., & Ra, J.-Y. (2014). The case study of textile design using soy wax resist. Journal of Korea Design Forum, 45, 147-156.
  26. Park, S. O., & Yeom, H. S. (2015). A study on the characteristics of Scandinavian home interior textile design: Focusing on the products of Marimekko brand. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 21(2), 225-237.
  27. Wu, Z., & Lee, H.-J. (2006). Characteristics of national races' costumes in Chinese contemporary costumes. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 14(6), 956-970.
  28. Zhang, Y., & Kim, S.-J. (2011). Fashion design studies on reinterpretation of Chinese ethnic minority costumes. Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association, 13(2), 175-183.
  29. Zhou, Y. (2013). 蜡去花现: 贵州少数民族传统蜡染手工艺研究 [Remove the wax see flowers]. Beijing: Central University for Nationalities Press.

Cited by

  1. 중국 소수민족 묘족(苗族) 복식과 황평 납염 특성을 활용한 패션디자인 vol.29, pp.4, 2018, https://doi.org/10.29049/rjcc.2021.29.4.585