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The physical properties of the cosmetic hydrogels affected by adding various celluloses

셀룰로오즈 첨가에 따른 미용용 하이드로겔의 물성 연구

  • Byeon, Hong-Ju (Department of Biotechnology, Korea National University of Transportation) ;
  • Choi, Won-Seok (Department of Biotechnology, Korea National University of Transportation) ;
  • Lee, Hyang-Yeol (Department of Biotechnology, Korea National University of Transportation)
  • 변홍주 (한국교통대학교 생명공학과) ;
  • 최원석 (한국교통대학교 생명공학과) ;
  • 이향렬 (한국교통대학교 생명공학과)
  • Received : 2018.07.27
  • Accepted : 2018.09.15
  • Published : 2018.09.30

Abstract

Hydrogels are natural polymer networks that can contain huge quantities of water and many cosmetical ingredients. Their hydrophilic functional groups creates a matrix, which allows high efficacy in delivering active ingredients into the skin. In industry, hydrating properties and strength of the hydrogels are of great interest in manufacturing hydrogel mask packs. We have used the cellulose in various forms such as powder, cotton fiber and cellulase treated cotton fiber to investigate the property changes of cellulose/hydrogel sheets. When 0.1% and 0.3% of cellulose powder were added to hydrogels, tensile strength of hydrogel sheets were decreased by 10% and 14% respectively. Vise versa, when 0.5 ~ 2 cm of cotton fibers were added, tensile strength of hydrogel sheets were significantly increased by about 20%. The hydrogels which contain cotton fibers also gave an excellent moisturizing effect. Especially cellolose/hydrogels containing cellulase-treated cotton fibers showed the best effect on retaining moisture content increasing upto 380% in comparison with the one containing untreated cotton as well as excellent dispersibility.

하이드로겔은 다량의 물과 화장품용 성분들을 함유할 수 있는 천연고분자 구조를 가지고 있으며 내부의 친수성기들이 활성성분을 다량 함유하고 효과적으로 전달할 수 있는 구조체를 형성할 수 있어 화장품 소재로 즐겨 사용되고 있다. 화장품용 하이드로겔에 첨가하는 소재로 셀룰로오스가 많이 이용되고 있는데 파우더 형태의 셀룰로오스와 면섬유 및 셀룰라아제를 처리한 면섬유와 같이 다양한 형태의 셀룰로오스를 하이드로겔에 적용했을 경우 하이드로겔의 물성변화 및 외관변화를 조사해 보았다. 일반적으로 사용되는 셀룰로오스 파우더를 하이드로겔에 첨가하였을 경우 예상과 달리 하이드로겔의 인장강도가 상당히 저하되는 결과를 보였다. 첨가하지 않았을 때 대비 0.1%와 0.3%의 셀룰로오스 파우더를 첨가한 시료는 각각 10%, 14%의 인장강도 저하현상을 보였다. 이와는 다르게 면섬유를 0.1 ~ 0.3% 첨가하였을 경우 하이드로겔의 강도가 약 20% 증가함을 보였다. 그러나 길이가 긴 면섬유는 뻣뻣하여 하이드로겔에 혼합시 분산성에 문제를 보였다. 이를 해결하기 위하여 면에 셀룰라아제를 처리함으로써 효소-분해 반응을 통해 섬유의 유연성을 증가시킬 수 있었다. 또한 효소 처리된 면섬유를 하이드로겔에 첨가하여 보습성의 변화를 조사한 결과 셀룰라아제를 처리한 면섬유를 함유한 하이드로겔은 처리하지 않은 면섬유-하이드로겔 대비 380% 증가된 보습성을 보였으며 또한 혼합 가공시 우수한 분산성을 보였다.

Keywords

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