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The Environmental Changes and Fashion in East-West Cultural Exchange Before Orientalism

오리엔탈리즘 이전 동서문화 교류의 환경변화와 패션

  • Lee, Keum Hee (Dept. of Fashion Design & Marketing, Seoul Women's University)
  • 이금희 (서울여자대학교 패션산업학과)
  • Received : 2018.12.20
  • Accepted : 2019.01.26
  • Published : 2019.02.28

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to clarify the phenomenon and characteristics of fashion in before Orientalism by examining the environmental changes and factors of East - West cultural exchange from the 16th century to the 18th century. To this end, this study examines the development of political and diplomatic relations, the growth of economy and trade, the investment of culture and arts, and the development of industry and technology. The research method used was the analysis of previous literature research and visual data. The result were as follows; the characteristics and phenomena in fashion in before Orientalism were symbolism as a privileged whole, applying to special clothing area, variety and splendor of fabrics, change of costume design, and a trend of exotic taste. Before Orientalism, the perspective of Orient in Europe can be seen as having the positive aspects cause of developing fashion and a negative aspect coming from an incorrect understanding and a bias.

Keywords

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Figure 1. Nicholas Hilliard’s Heneage Jewel (collections.vam.ac.uk)

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Figure 2. Harem Scene, 1586-1591 (issendai.com)

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Figure 3. Conveying the Grant of the Diwani to Lord Clive (artuk.org)

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Figure 4. Toile peint portant le tampon (Musée de la mode et du textile, 1998, p.37)

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Figure 5. Parisian Clientele at the Saint-Germain Fair (DeJean, 2006, p. 240)

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Figure 6. Life and Works of Confucius (infogalactic.com)

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Figure 7. The Art of Painting (commons.wikimedia.org)

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Figure 8. Le Mercure Galant (gallica.bnf.fr)

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Figure 9. Dress of Sigmund von Herberstein (www.gutenberg.org)

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Figure 10. Double Portrait of Robert Shirley and His wife (en.wikipedia.org)

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Figure 11. Emperor Matthias as a King of Bohemia (www.myartprints.co.uk)

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Figure 12. Margrave Ludwig Wilhelm in Turkish Attire (ko.wikipedia.org)

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Figure 13. Charles Gravier Count of Vergennes, (en.wikipedia.org)

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Figure 14. Costume for a Daughter of Niger (jeannedepompadour.blogsp ot.com)

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Figure 15. Dress of Arab (www.mfa.org)

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Figure 16. Idamé Clothing (collections.lacma.org)

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Figure 17. A Delphic Couple (jeannedepompadour.blogspot.com)

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Figure 18. Indienne Plate Devoted to the Marseilles (Musée de la mode et du textile, 1998, p.45)

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Figure 19. Detail of Indienne (www.musee-impression.com)

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Figure 20. Part of Fabric of French Court Gown (Martin & Koda, 1994, p.15)

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Figure 21. Oriental Family (www.ngv.vic.gov.au)

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Figure 22. Sir Godfrey Kneller (Ashelford, 1996, p.103)

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Figure 23. Robe de Chambre (www.mfa.org)

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Figure 24. An old man in Oriental Garb (yeoldefashion.tumblr.com)

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Figure 25. The Geographer (en.wikipedia.org)

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Figure 26. La Toilette (www.museothyssen.org)

Acknowledgement

Supported by : Seoul Women's University

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