Journal of Fashion Business (패션비즈니스)

The Korean Society of Fashion Business (한국패션비즈니스학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Analysis of Variations in Structural Components and Design Elements of Women's Jackets -A Focus on 2013 S/S~2017 F/W Milan Collections-

여성 재킷의 형태적 변화에 관한 분석 -2013년 S/S~2017년 F/W 밀라노 컬렉션을 중심으로-

  • 김효숙 (건국대학교 의상디자인학과) ;
  • 김지민 (건국대학교 의상디자인학과)
  • Received : 2019.01.03
  • Accepted : 2019.02.01
  • Published : 2019.02.28
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

This study reviewed photos of women's jackets shown at Milano Collections from 2013 S/S to 2017 F/W to identify the variations and trends in their structural components and design elements with respect to year and season. 576 photos, which consist of 276 S/S jackets and 300 F/W jackets by renowned Italian luxury fashion brands; Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Fendi, Max Mara and Jil Sander, were analyzed. Some of the highlighted findings are as follows; in the structural aspects, the H-line silhouette, below waist to hip line length, natural shoulder line and single button closure were the most frequently appearing components among all the jackets. For the design elements, the largest number of jackets was made of woven fabric in single color, while fur was mostly used in F/W seasons for its warmth, heaviness and bulky appearance. From the results, it was established that variations were made to the jacket components and design elements to the extent that they convey predominant jacket styles with a certain level of practicality and performance. However, the study also found that some of the jackets demonstrated design diversity and innovation by adopting daring styles, bold materials and colors. As the findings of this study identified the variations and trends in women's jacket components in recent years, they can be applied towards developing high end women's jackets to meet the demands and distinctive needs of luxury clothing buyers and distributors.

Keywords

Table 1. Number of Jackets by Year and Season

HGPSBI_2019_v23n1_145_t0001.png 이미지

Table 2. Number of Jackets by Brand

HGPSBI_2019_v23n1_145_t0002.png 이미지

Table 3. Silhouette and Length

HGPSBI_2019_v23n1_145_t0003.png 이미지

Table 4. Examples of Silhouette and Length

HGPSBI_2019_v23n1_145_t0004.png 이미지

Table 5. Collar, Sleeve and Shoulder line

HGPSBI_2019_v23n1_145_t0005.png 이미지

Table 5. Continued

HGPSBI_2019_v23n1_145_t0006.png 이미지

Table 6. Examples of Collar, Sleeve and Shoulder line

HGPSBI_2019_v23n1_145_t0007.png 이미지

Table 6. Continued

HGPSBI_2019_v23n1_145_t0008.png 이미지

Table 7. Type of Front Openings and Closures

HGPSBI_2019_v23n1_145_t0009.png 이미지

Table 8. Number of Buttons and Position of First Button

HGPSBI_2019_v23n1_145_t0010.png 이미지

Table 9. Examples of First Button Position

HGPSBI_2019_v23n1_145_t0011.png 이미지

Table 10. Types of Pockets

HGPSBI_2019_v23n1_145_t0012.png 이미지

Table 11. Examples of Pocket Types

HGPSBI_2019_v23n1_145_t0013.png 이미지

Table 12. Fabrics and Colors

HGPSBI_2019_v23n1_145_t0014.png 이미지

References

  1. Brewer, T. (n.d.). 10 Top fashion trends from 2017 that are here to stay. The Trend Spotter, Retrieved December 30, 2018, from https//www.thetrendspotter.net
  2. Choi, S., Do, W., & Lee, M. (2018). Analysis of the constructional components of chanel jacket design. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 20(3), 266-278. https://doi.org/10.5805/SFTI.2018.20.3.266
  3. Croft, C. (2018, February 21). The Power of Italy: A Preview by Claudia Croft. British Vogue, Retrieved August 17, 2018, from https://www.vogue.co.uk
  4. Doopedia. (n.d.). Retrieved September 7, 2018, from http://www.doopedia.co.kr
  5. Fashion dictionary (5th ed.). (2006). Tokyo: Bunka Publishing Bureau.
  6. Fendi S/S. (2013). Figure 15, 38, Retrieved August 15, 2018. from http://www.samsungdesign.net.sa.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=53&itemidx=322&item=Milano&designeridx=9568&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2013&searchSeason=ss&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Fendi&page=1&block=
  7. Fendi F/W (2015). Figure 4, Retrieved August 15, 2018. from http://www.samsungdesign.net.sa.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=78&itemidx=459&item=Milano&designeridx=15970&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2015&searchSeason=fw&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Fendi&page=1&block=
  8. Fendi F/W (2017). Figure 1, Retrieved August 15, 2018. from http://www.samsungdesign.net.sa.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=98&itemidx=562&item=Milano&designeridx=21444&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2017&searchSeason=fw&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Fendi&page=1&block=
  9. Fendi S/S. (2017). Figure 5, 24, 31 Retrieved August 15, 2018. from http://www.samsungdesign.net.sa.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=93&itemidx=537&item=Milano&designeridx=20484&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2017&searchSeason=ss&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Fendi&page=1&block=
  10. Giorgio Armani F/W. (2013). Figure 6, 32, Retrieved August 15, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.net.sa.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=58&itemidx=351&item=Milano&designeridx=10619&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2013&searchSeason=fw&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Giorgio+Armani&page=1&block=
  11. Giorgio Armani F/W. (2014). Figure 21, Retrieved August 15, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.net.sa.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=68&itemidx=405&item=Milano&designeridx=13154&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2014&searchSeason=fw&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Giorgio+Armani&page=1&block=
  12. Giorgio Armani F/W. (2015). Figure 3, 27, Retrieved August 15, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.net.sa.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=78&itemidx=459&item=Milano&designeridx=16014&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2015&searchSeason=fw&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Giorgio+Armani&page=1&block=
  13. Giorgio Armani S/S. (2015). Figure 16, Retrieved August 15, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.net.sa.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=73&itemidx=434&item=Milano&designeridx=14573&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2015&searchSeason=ss&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Giorgio+Armani&page=1&block=
  14. Giorgio Armani F/W. (2016). Figure 12, 18, 34, 37, Retrieved August 15, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.net.sa.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=88&itemidx=513&item=Milano&designeridx=19171&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2016&searchSeason=fw&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Giorgio+Armani&page=1&block=
  15. Giorgio Armani S/S. (2016). Figure 20, Retrieved August 15, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.netsa.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=83&itemidx=496&item=Milano&designeridx=17542&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2016&searchSeason=ss&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Giorgio+Armani&page=1&block=
  16. Giorgio Armani F/W. (2017). Figure 2, 7, 29. Retrieved August 15, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.net.sa.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=98&itemidx=562&item=Milano&designeridx=21490&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2017&searchSeason=fw&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Giorgio+Armani&page=1&block=
  17. Gucci F/W. (2013). Figure 36, Retrieved August 18, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.net.sa.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=58&itemidx=351&item=Milano&designeridx=10588&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2013&searchSeason=fw&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Gucci&page=1&block=
  18. Gucci S/S. (2013). Figure 14, Retrieved August 18, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.net.sa.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=53&itemidx=322&item=Milano&designeridx=9576&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2013&searchSeason=ss&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Gucci&page=1&block=
  19. Gucci F/W. (2017). Figure 17, 23, 39, Retrieved August 19, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.net.sa.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=98&itemidx=562&item=Milano&designeridx=21408&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2017&searchSeason=fw&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Gucci&page=1&block=
  20. Gucci S/S. (2017). Figure 40, Retrieved August 19, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.net.sa.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=93&itemidx=537&item=Milano&designeridx=20483&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2017&searchSeason=ss&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Gucci&page=1&block=
  21. Han, S., & Kim, L. (2014). Fashion design (3rd ed.). Seoul: Kyohaksa.
  22. Jil Sander F/W. (2013). Figure 25, 28, Retrieved August 17, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.net.sa.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=58&itemidx=351&item=Milano&designeridx=10589&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2013&searchSeason=fw&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Jil+Sander&page=1&block=
  23. Jil Sander S/S. (2013). Figure 9, Retrieved August 17, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.net.ca.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=53&itemidx=322&item=Milano&designeridx=9578&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2013&searchSeason=ss&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Jil+Sander&page=1&block=
  24. Jil Sander S/S. (2014). Figure 19, Retrieved August 17, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.net.ca.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=63&itemidx=379&item=Milano&designeridx=11798&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2014&searchSeason=ss&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Jil+Sander&page=1&block=
  25. Jil Sander F/W. (2015). Figure 10, Retrieved August 17, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.net.sa.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=78&itemidx=459&item=Milano&designeridx=15969&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2015&searchSeason=fw&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Jil+Sander&page=1&block=
  26. Jil Sander S/S. (2016). Figure 33, Retrieved August 18, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.net.ca.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=83&itemidx=496&item=Milano&designeridx=17512&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2016&searchSeason=ss&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Jil+Sander&page=1&block=
  27. Jil Sander F/W. (2017). Figure 22, Retrieved August 18, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.net.sa.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=98&itemidx=562&item=Milano&designeridx=21405&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2017&searchSeason=fw&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Jil+Sander&page=1&block=
  28. Jil Sander S/S. (2017). Figure 30, Retrieved August 18, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.net.ca.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=93&itemidx=537&item=Milano&designeridx=20485&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2017&searchSeason=ss&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Jil+Sander&page=1&block=
  29. Jung, Y., & Chun, H. (2006). A comparative study on the 20th century French fashion and Italian fashion. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 56(9), 112-126.
  30. Kim, E. (2005). A study on the Italian fashion design in the latter half of the 20th century-focused on womenswear- (Unpublished master's thesis). Kookmin University, Seoul, Korea.
  31. Kim, E., & Yoo, Y. (2014). An analysis on retro jacket designs of haute couture designers for the development of high-value added fashion products. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 64(3), 77-92. https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2014.64.3.077
  32. Kim, G., & Kim, Y. (2008). A study on the collar construction factors of the women's tailored jacket. Journal of Korean Society of Clothing Industry. 10(6). 947-954.
  33. Kim, H., Choi, C., & Kim, J. (2015). Women's tailoring. Seoul: Kyungchun-sa.
  34. Kim, J. (2017, January 9). 2017 S/S Trends 11. Vogue Korea, Retrieved December 30, 2018, from http://www.vogue.co.kr
  35. Kim, Y. (2006). A study on the design elements & the principles of Giorgio Armani. The Korean Society of Design Culture, 12(2), 178-187.
  36. Kong, M. (2006). A study on design features of Giorgio Armani -focused on designs from 2001 to the s/s 2006-. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 8(1), 7-16.
  37. Lee, G. (2016). Characteristics of the Italian ethical fashion and design (Unpublished master's thesis). Konkuk University, Seoul, Korea.
  38. Lee, H. [Heeyoung]. (2006). A study on the fashion industry of France and Italy (Unpublished master's thesis). Dongguk University, Seoul, Korea.
  39. Lee, H. [Hojung]. (1987). 복식디자인: 기성복 디자인에의 어프로치 [Apparel design: Approaches to ready-to-wear]. Seoul: Kyohaksa.
  40. Lee, H., & Park, K. (2007). Marketing strategies of fashion brands-focused on the British, French, Italian luxury fashion brands-. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 9(2), 211-220.
  41. Lee, J., Do, W., & Lee, M. (2016). A study of alexander mcqueen’s jacket. Fashion & Textiles Research Journal, 18(2), 194-206. https://doi.org/10.5805/SFTI.2016.18.2.194
  42. Lee, S., & Kwak, T. (2011). An analysis of exaggerated jackets show in 2011 f/w women’s wear collections according to details. Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion Design, 11(3), 61-77.
  43. Lee, S., & Shin, K. (2017). Analysis of bulky shilouette coat trend in 2013/14, 2014/15 f/w season of women’s ready to wear collection: with Paris, Milan, London and New York collection. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 19(2), 121-133. https://doi.org/10.5805/SFTI.2017.19.2.121
  44. Max Mara F/W. (2014). Figure 26, Retrieved August 16, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.net.ca.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=68&itemidx=405&item=Milano&designeridx=13114&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2014&searchSeason=fw&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Max+Mara&page=1&block=
  45. Max Mara S/S. (2014). Figure 13, Retrieved August 16, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.net.ca.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=63&itemidx=379&item=Milano&designeridx=11809&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2014&searchSeason=ss&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Max+Mara&page=1&block=
  46. Max Mara S/S. (2015). Figure 8, 11, Retrieved August 16, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.net.ca.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=73&itemidx=434&item=Milano&designeridx=14544&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2015&searchSeason=ss&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Max+Mara&page=1&block=
  47. Max Mara F/W. (2016). Figure 35, Retrieved August 16, 2018 from http://www.samsungdesign.net.ca.skku.edu:8080/Fashion/Collection/ForWomen/New_designer.asp?an=88&itemidx=513&item=Milano&designeridx=19187&seeAllDesigners=Y&searchYear=2016&searchSeason=fw&searchSex=Women&searchItem=Milano&searchDesigner=Max+Mara&page=1&block=
  48. National Library of Korea. (n.d.). The big four fashion weeks & seoul fashion week. Retrieved August 3, 2018, from http://nlcollection.nl.go.kr/front/detail/detail.do?rec_key=CO0000003755&category_id=CA0000000019&chkApp=
  49. No, M., & Yang, C. (2003). A comparative study on street fashion trends in Seoul and Milan. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 53(5), 49-63.
  50. Paik, G. (2000). A study on factors for competitiveness of Italian textile & fashion apparel industry. The Journal of Contemporary European Studies, 11, 175-213.
  51. Park, H., Lee, M., Yum, H., Choi, K., & Park, S. (2006). Contemporary fashion design. Paju: Kyomunsa.
  52. Park, M. (2015). The trend change showed on the design elements of modern men's suits -focused on 2011 s/s-2013 f/w fashion collections-. Design Forum, 46, 95-106.
  53. Petter, O. (2018, August 25). Women's pockets are officially smaller than men's study reveals. Independent. Retrieved September 2, 2018, from https://www.independent.co.uk
  54. Smith, K. (2014, September 19). Denim jackets: Data behind the SS15 runway trend. Edited. Retrieved December 30, 2018, from https//edited.com
  55. Song, J., & Park, M. (2017). Analysis on the types of jacket in 2000 women’s fashion. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 19(5), 608-619. https://doi.org/10.5805/SFTI.2017.19.5.608
  56. The top fashion trends of 2013. (2013, December 27). Forbes. Retrieved September 2, 2018, from https://www.forbes.com