Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Development of Sustainable Anti-aging Products Using Aquaponics Technology

아쿠아포닉스 기술을 이용한 친환경 항노화 제품 개발

  • 김유아 (한국콜마(주) 피부천연물연구소) ;
  • 전태병 (농업회사법인 만나씨이에이(주)) ;
  • 장욱주 (한국콜마(주) 피부천연물연구소) ;
  • 박병준 (한국콜마(주) 피부천연물연구소) ;
  • 강학희 (한국콜마(주) 피부천연물연구소)
  • Received : 2019.09.02
  • Accepted : 2019.09.27
  • Published : 2019.09.30
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Abstract

To develop sustainable new natural anti-aging ingredients from Korean native plants, we investigated the cultivation potential of Nymphoides indica using the eco-friendly aquaponics system, and tested the anti-aging effects from N. indica extracts. N. indica could be grown in aquaponics system using floating leaved deep water culture method, and propagated through rhizome propagation. It was confirmed that the nitrate ($80{\mu}g/mL$), potassium ($63.5{\mu}g/mL$) and water temperature ($25^{\circ}C$) greatly affected the cultivation of the N. indica. In addition, synergistic effects were found when two major components (3,7-di-O-methylquercetin-4'-O-${\beta}$-glucoside & sweroside) were present at more than about $5{\mu}g/mL$. The extract had a significant effect on the recovery of skin cells damaged by environmental pollutant such as $benzo[{\alpha}]pyrene$, ammonium nitrate, formaldehyde. It also suppressed $PGE_2$, $TNF-{\alpha}$ and COX-2, and inhibited the production of MMP-1. Taken together, the results suggested that the standardized extracts of N. indica cultivated in the aquaponics has considerable potential as a new cosmetics ingredient with an anti-aging effect.

본 연구에서는 국내 자생식물로부터 지속가능한 천연 항노화 화장품 신소재 개발을 위해 수생식물인 어리연꽃의 친환경 아쿠아포닉스 시스템 적용 가능성 및 항노화 효능을 검증하였다. 어리연꽃은 아쿠아포닉스 시스템내에서 부엽형태의 담액식 방식에서 성장 가능하고, 근경번식을 통해 증식됨이 확인되었다. 또한, 어리연꽃의 재배에 질산염, 칼륨 및 수온이 크게 영향을 미치며, 최적 조건은 각각 $80{\mu}g/mL$, $63.5{\mu}g/mL$ 및 $25^{\circ}C$로 확인되었다. 특히 주성분 2종(3,7-di-O-methylquercetin-4'-O-${\beta}$-glucoside 및 sweroside)이 약 $5{\mu}g/mL$ 이상 함께 존재 시 시너지 유효성이 있었다. 어리연꽃 추출물은 환경 유해물질 $benzo[{\alpha}]pyrene$, ammonium nitrate, formaldehyde에 의해 손상된 피부 세포의 회복에 유의미한 효과가 있으며, 염증성 조절 인자인 $PGE_2$, $TNF-{\alpha}$ 및 COX-2를 억제하고, 콜라겐 분해 효소인 MMP-1의 생성을 억제함으로써 항염 및 항노화 효과가 있음이 확인되었다. 따라서 아쿠아포닉스 기술 기반 어리연꽃 추출물의 원료 표준화는 화장품 분야에서 신규 항노화 기능성 소재로서의 활용 가능성이 있을 것으로 사료된다.

Keywords

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