The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (복식문화연구)

The Costume Culture Association (복식문화학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

A study on the expression types and aesthetic formativeness of tassels and fringe in modern bag design

현대 가방 디자인에 나타난 술 장식의 표현유형과 미적 조형성 연구

  • Kwon, Giyoung (Center for Beautiful Aging, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Kyungpook National University)
  • 권기영 (경북대학교 의류학과.장수생활과학연구소)
  • Received : 2020.07.12
  • Accepted : 2020.08.15
  • Published : 2020.08.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to provide ideas for the development of bag design by analyzing the expression types and aesthetic formativeness of modern bag design using tassels and fringe given the newtro trend pursuing analog sensitivity in modern society. The methods and scope of this study are as follows. First, the related literature and internet data were reviewed in order to examine the expression types and characteristics of the bags of the West and East. Next, the definition and characteristics of tassel and fringe decoration in terms of the history of clothing were analyzed. Finally, the expression types and aesthetic formativeness of tassels and fringe were derived through the analysis of modern bag design shown in the fashion collections since 2010. The bags decorated with the tassels and fringe bring a variety of visual effects depending on the attachment position, direction and material composition, concentrating the gaze and radiating original style. In this study, the expression of tassels and fringe in modern bag design was classified into three types: surface decoration, shape variability, and object combination. Next, the aesthetic formativeness of modern bag design using tassels and fringe as decorative elements appeared through the mixture of heterogeneous materials and playfulness through imagination, exaggeration through extension of length and volume, and retro characteristics through reinterpretation of tradition. This study is expected to contribute to creative ideas of modern bag design which requires a global sense, which has been used in various cultures for a long time.

Keywords

References

  1. Amazigh. (n.d.). Berber's bag. Retrieved January 23, 2019, from https://www.amazigh.it/berber-bag-zaaboula-rif-mountain-north-morocco/img_4541/
  2. Anawalt, P. R. (2009). 세계복식문화사 [The worldwide history of dress] (The Korean Society of Costume, Trans.). Seoul: Wisdomhouse. (Original work published 2007)
  3. Chairish. (n.d.). Bedouin wool tasseled tapestry bag [Pinterest]. Retrieved January 23, 2019, from https://www.pinterest.co.kr/pin/442619469629281226/
  4. Cho, W. S. (2018). The story of handbag design. Seoul: Knowledge and Sensibility.
  5. Chung, H. S., & Kim, E. H. (2001). A study on the history of hand-bag. Chung-Ang Journal of Human Ecology, 14, 187-207.
  6. Etsy. (n.d.a). Pouch bag. Retrieved January 23, 2019, from https://www.etsy.com/listing/211969093/limited-time-20-off-vintage-beaded-purse
  7. Etsy. (n.d.b). Suede fringe purse 1970s. Retrieved January 23, 2019, from https://www.etsy.com/listing/786256075/suede-fringe-purse-hippie-leather-fringe?epik=dj0yJnU9TXpqa2Z0aUlqemJyQjZPS1lPMTRzSjk5TVdrV3ZCQkQmcD0wJm49cUwtb05MRHpDM1JlWVQ0d1pGUi1vdyZ0PUFBQUFBRjlBNG1B
  8. Fashion Professional Resources Dictionary Committee. (1997). Fashion 전문자료사전 [Fashion professional resources dictionary]. Seoul: Korea Dictionary Research Publishing.
  9. Flickr. (n.d.). Purse depicting lovers. Retrieved October 25, 2018, from https://www.flickr.com/photos/medievalarchive/2143878844/in/faves-la-fleur-de-lafolie/
  10. Haye, A., Evans, C., Phillips, A., Wilcox, C., & Clark, J. (2012). 핸드백의 모든 것: 시몬느 핸드백 뮤지엄 [Handbags: The making of a museum] (Simmonne Handbag Museum, Trans.). Paju: Nanda. (Original work published 2012)
  11. Jeon, G. H. (2005). The study of bag design: Focused on brand identity. Unpublished master's thesis, Hongik University, Seoul, Korea.
  12. Jugem. (2019, May 19). Traditional bag, Japan. Retrieved January 23, 2020, from http://rombako.hakoseko.mods.jp/?eid=982195&imageviewer&image=20190516_2744178.jpg
  13. Kim, E. Y. (2001). A study on the clothing design adating the fringe & tassel. Unpublished master's thesis, Hongik University, Seoul, Korea.
  14. Kim, J. H. (2014). A study on the texture expression through mixing of materials and repetitive structure. Unpublished master's thesis, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  15. Kim, S. Y. (2011). Transactions: Expressive characteristics of fringe in modern fashion. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 13(6), 856-865. https://doi.org/10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.6.856
  16. Kwan, J. S. (2014). A study on the expression analysis in fringe of modern fashion design. Journal of the Korea Entertainment Industry Association, 8(4), 73-82. doi:10.21184/jkeia.2014.12.8.4.73
  17. Kwon, M. S. (1989). The research on the bag design for business. Unpublished master's thesis, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  18. La Fillette. (January 19, 2015). The origin and history of the bag [Blog Post]. Retrieved February 19, 2019, from http://lafi21.blog.me/220244610054
  19. Ladylimoges. (2011, April 14). Art Nouveau style purse 1920-1925. Retrieved January 10, 2019, from https://ladylimoges.tumblr.com/post/4609639257/omgthatdress-bag-ca-1920-1925-via-manchester
  20. Lee, Y. H., & Cha, E. J. (1996). A study on the shoes and handbags design applying Kim, Su-Geun's architecture. The Collection of Jinju Tech, 19, 561-578.
  21. McCord Museum. (n.d.). Evening bag 19C. Retrieved January 10, 2019, from http://collections.museemccord.qc.ca/en/collection/artifacts/M974.107.1?Lang=1&accessnumber=M974.107.1
  22. Metropolitan Museum of Art. (n.d.a). Purse 1820s. Retrieved January 21, 2019, from https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/116964
  23. Metropolitan Museum of Art. (n.d.b). Purse late 1920s, German. Retrieved January 21, 2019, from https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/117316?rpp=90&pg=10&rndkey=20141223&ft=*&deptids=8&pos=821
  24. Minneapolis Institute of Art. (n.d.). Tuareg's camel saddle bag 20C. Retrieved February 12, 2019, from https://collections.artsmia.org/art/24932/camel-bag-tuareg
  25. Museum of Fine Arts Boston. (n.d.a). Butterfly-shaped drawstring purse. Retrieved January 23, 2019, from https://collections.mfa.org/objects/6407
  26. Museum of Fine Arts Boston. (n.d.b). Seal bag. Retrieved October 21, 2018, from https://collections.mfa.org/objects/46906
  27. Museum of Fine Arts Boston. (n.d.c). Drawstring bag. Retrieved November 3, 2018, from https://collections.mfa.org/objects/116689
  28. Museum of Fine Arts Boston. (n.d.d). Bag 19C. Retrieved January 11, 2019, from https://collections.mfa.org/objects/115931
  29. National Palace Museum of Korea. (n.d.). 영친왕비 진주화접문 자수 향주머니 [Embroidered incense dooru jumeoni with pearl flower for Queen Young chin]. Retrieved February 12, 2019, from https://www.gogung.go.kr/searchView.do?pageIndex=3&cultureSeq=00017194AK&searchRelicDiv4=&searchGubun=ALL1&searchText=%EB%91%90%EB%A3%A8%EC%A3%BC%EB%A8%B8%EB%8B%88
  30. Ponty, M. (2008). L'oeil et l'esprit (J. A. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Maumsanchaek. (Original work published 1964)
  31. Popscreen. (n.d.). Art Deco beaded purse 1920s. Retrieved January 22, 2019, from http://www.popscreen.com/p/MTAzODYyMTAw/Vintage-Art-Deco-Beaded-Roaring-20s-Chain-Clasp-Purse-Blue-Yellow-
  32. Rugrabbit. (n.d.). Baluchi salt bag. Retrieved January 23, 2019, from https://rugrabbit.com/node/206615
  33. Toba. (2011, September). Why a woman needs 100 handbags [Blog Post]. Retrieved October 20, 2018, from http://hunza.tistory.com/359
  34. Viabanjara. (n.d.). A vintage hand embroidery bag, In dia [Pinterest]. Retrieved January 23, 2020, from https://i.pinimg.com/originals/aa/a7/77/aaa7778713b4f947d2d1cd8dd0294c72.jpg
  35. Vogue. (2010, September 27). Roberto Cavalli 2011 Spring. Retrieved May 23, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-ready-to-wear/roberto-cavalli/slideshow/details#7
  36. Vogue. (2012a, September 22). Bottega Veneta 2013 Spring. Retrieved April 23, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-ready-to-wear/bottega-veneta/slideshow/details#22
  37. Vogue. (2012b, September 22). Bottega Veneta 2013 Spring. Retrieved April 23, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-ready-to-wear/bottega-veneta/slideshow/details#24
  38. Vogue. (2013a, September 11). Proenza Schouler 2014 Spring. Retrieved August 28, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/proenza-schouler/slideshow/details#22
  39. Vogue. (2013b, September 18). Gucci 2014 Spring. Retrieved April 23, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/gucci/slideshow/details#29
  40. Vogue. (2013c, September 27). Vanessa Bruno 2014 Spring. Retrieved May 21, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/vanessa-bruno/slideshow/collection
  41. Vogue. (2013d, September 27). Vanessa Bruno 2014 Spring. Retrieved April 23, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/vanessa-bruno/slideshow/collection#4
  42. Vogue. (2013e, October 1). Valentino 2014 Spring. Retrieved April 23, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/valentino/slideshow/details#18
  43. Vogue. (2014a, February 22). Roberto Cavalli 2014 Fall. Retrieved January 23, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/roberto-cavalli/slideshow/details#107
  44. Vogue. (2014b, September 21). Salvatore Ferragamo 2015 Spring. Retrieved August 28, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/salvatore-ferragamo/slideshow/details#35
  45. Vogue. (2016a, September 12). Altuzarra 2017 Spring. Retrieved August 28, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/altuzarra/slideshow/details#17
  46. Vogue. (2016b, September 15). Ralph Lauren 2016 Fall. Retrieved February 4, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/ralph-lauren/slideshow/details#139
  47. Vogue. (2016c, September 30). Loewe 2017 Spring. Retrieved August 28, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/loewe/slideshow/details#15
  48. Vogue. (2016d, October 2). Elie Saab 2017 Spring. Retrieved April 23, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/eliesaab/slideshow/collection#22
  49. Vogue. (2017a, February 15). Coach 2017 Fall. Retrieved August 28, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/coach/slideshow/details#53
  50. Vogue. (2017b, February 24). Prada 2014 Spring. Retrieved May 21, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/prada/slideshow/details#128
  51. Vogue. (2017c, February 27). Giorgio Armani 2017 Fall. Retrieved February 4, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/giorgio-armani/slideshow/details#39
  52. Vogue. (2017d, March 1). Maison Margiela 2017 Fall. Retrieved April 23, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/maisonmartin-margiela/slideshow/details#78
  53. Vogue. (2017e, September 10). Alexander Wang 2018 Spring. Retrieved August 28, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/alexander-wang/slideshow/details#48
  54. Vogue. (2017f, September 21). Fendi 2018 Spring. Retrieved August 28, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/fendi/slideshow/details#9
  55. Vogue. (2017g, September 21). Fendi 2018 Spring. Retrieved August 28, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/fendi/slideshow/details#27
  56. Vogue. (2017h, September 29). Loewe 2018 Spring. Retrieved April 23, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/loewe/slideshow/details#3
  57. Vogue. (2017i, September 29). Loewe 2018 Spring. Retrieved August 28, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/loewe/slideshow/details#28
  58. Vogue. (2018a, January 23). Proenza Schouler 2018 Fall. Retrieved February 4, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/proenza-schouler/slideshow/details#22
  59. Vogue. (2018b, February 27). Christian Dior 2018 Fall. Retrieved May 22, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/christian-dior/slideshow/details#69
  60. Vogue. (2018c, February 27). Christian Dior 2018 Fall. Retrieved May 22, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/christian-dior/slideshow/details#109
  61. Vogue. (2018d, September 11). Oscar de la Renta 2019 Spring. Retrieved April 23, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/oscar-de-la-renta/slideshow/details#57
  62. Vogue. (2019a, January 23). Armani Prive 2019 Spring. Retrieved April 23, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-couture/armani-prive/slideshow/collection#6
  63. Vogue. (2019b, February 10). Area 2019 Fall. Retrieved April 23, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/area/slideshow/collection#12
  64. Vogue. (2019c, February 23). Salvatore Ferragamo 2019 Fall. Retrieved April 23, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/salvatore-ferragamo/slideshow/details#46
  65. Vogue. (2019d, February 27). Balmain 2020 Spring. Retrieved May 4, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/balmain/slideshow/details#58
  66. Vogue. (2019e, September 16). JW Anderson 2020 Spring. Retrieved April 23, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/j-w-anderson/slideshow/details#37
  67. Vogue. (2019f, September 16). JW Anderson 2020 Spring. Retrieved January 28, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/j-w-anderson/slideshow/details#3
  68. Vogue. (2019g, September 28). Issey Miyake 2020 Spring. Retrieved January 28, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/issey-miyake/slideshow/collection#20
  69. Vogue. (2020, February 23). Bottega Veneta 2020 Fall. Retrieved April 23, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/bottega-veneta/slideshow/details#13
  70. Wikimedia Commons. (n.d.). Assyria relief. Retrieved September 18, 2018, from https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Assyrian_art_from_Dur-Sharrukin#/media/File:Apadana_winged_man.jpg
  71. Youn, S. R. (2014). Principles and characteristics of 3D linear constructions with threads. Journal of Basic Design & Art, 15(6), 383-398.