Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Study on Skin pH Improvement Effect through Regulation of Na+/H+ Exchanger 1 (NHE1) Expression of Prunella vulgaris Extract and Its Active Compound, Caffeic Acid

꿀풀 추출물과 그 활성 화합물인 카페인산의 Na+/H+ exchanger 1 (NHE1) 발현 조절을 통한 피부 pH 개선 효과에 대한 연구

  • No-June Park (Natural Products Research Institute, Korea Institute of Science and Technology) ;
  • Sim-Kyu Bong (Natural Products Research Institute, Korea Institute of Science and Technology) ;
  • Sang-A Park (Natural Products Research Institute, Korea Institute of Science and Technology) ;
  • Gi Hyun Park (CMS LAB) ;
  • Young Chul Ko (CMS LAB) ;
  • Hae Won Kim (CMS LAB) ;
  • Su-Nam Kim (Natural Products Research Institute, Korea Institute of Science and Technology)
  • 박노준 (한국과학기술연구원 천연물연구소) ;
  • 봉심규 (한국과학기술연구원 천연물연구소) ;
  • 박상아 (한국과학기술연구원 천연물연구소) ;
  • 박기현 (씨엠에스랩) ;
  • 고영철 (씨엠에스랩) ;
  • 김혜원 (씨엠에스랩) ;
  • 김수남 (한국과학기술연구원 천연물연구소)
  • Received : 2023.03.21
  • Accepted : 2023.03.30
  • Published : 2023.03.30
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Abstract

This study was conducted to discover substances that regulate skin surface acidification using human epidermal keratinocyte cell lines, and to investigate their effects on the moisturizing ability and skin barrier function of the stratum corneum. Prunella vulgaris (P. vulgaris) is an herb widely distributed in Northwest Africa and North America that has been studied for its anti-apoptotic, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects. However, research on the regulation of NHE1 expression and the restoration of skin barrier function has not been conducted. Analysis of P. vulgaris revealed the presence of rosmarinic acid and caffeic acid as active ingredients, which were tested for toxicity in human epidermal keratinocyte cell lines (HaCaT), and showed no toxic effects were observed at high concentarion (100 ㎍/mL or 100 µM). It is known that sodium-hydrogen ion exchange pumps (NHE1) decrease in expression in aging skin to maintain the acidic pH of the stratum corneum, and it is hypothesized that this decrease plays an important role in the impaired restoration of skin barrier function in aging skin. P. vulgaris extract and caffeic acid increased the expression of NHE1 in keratinocytes, increased the expression of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) precursor filaggrin and ceramide synthesis enzyme serine palmitoyl transferase (SPT). In addition, P. vulgaris and caffeic acid decreased the extracellular pH of keratinocytes, indicating a direct effect on skin pH regulation. Taken together, these results suggest that P. vulgaris and caffeic acid can regulate skin pH through NHE1 modulation, and may help to restore skin barrier function by increasing NMF and ceramide synthesis. These results show the possibility that honeysuckle and caffeic acid can have a positive effect on skin health, and can be the basis for the development of new skin protection products using them.

본 연구는 인간 각질형성 세포주를 이용하여 피부 표면의 산성화를 조절하는 물질을 발굴하고, 이를 통해 각질층의 보습 능력 및 피부 장벽 기능에 미치는 영향을 조사하기 위해 수행되었다. 꿀풀은 아프리카 북서부 및 북미에 널리 분포하는 허브 중 하나로 세포사멸, 항산화 및 항염에 대한 효능이 연구되어 왔다. 하지만 NHE1의 발현 조절 및 피부 장벽기능 회복에 대한 연구는 진행되지 않았다. 꿀풀의 피부 pH 조절 효과를 확인하기 위하여 꿀풀의 활성 성분 분석 결과 로즈마린산과 카페인산이 검출되었다. 꿀풀과 이것으로부터 검출된 성분인 카페인산은 인간 각질형성 세포주인 HaCaT 세포에 고농도(100 ㎍/mL 또는 100 µM)를 처리한 결과 독성을 보이지 않았다. 노화된 피부에서는 각질층의 산성 pH를 유지하기 위한 나트륨-수소 이온 교환 펌프(NHE1)의 발현감소가 나타나는 것으로 알려져 있으며, 이러한 이유로 노화 피부에서 나타나는 피부 장벽 기능 회복의 저하에 중요한 원인으로 작용할 것으로 추측된다. 꿀풀 추출물 및 카페인산은 각질형성 세포에서 NHE1의 발현을 증가시켰으며, 자연 보습 인자 전구체인 필라그린과 세라마이드 합성 효소인 serine plmitoyl transferase (SPT)의 발현을 증가시켰다. 또한, 직접적인 pH 조절 효과를 확인하기 위해 각질형성 세포 내/외 pH 수치를 측정한 결과 꿀풀과 카페인산은 세포 외부 pH를 감소시켰다. 위 결과들을 종합해 볼 때, 꿀풀과 카페인산은 NHE1 조절을 통해 피부 pH를 조절할 수 있고, 자연 보습 인자(NMF)와 세라마이드 합성을 증가시켜 피부 장벽 기능 회복을 도울 수 있을 것으로 추측된다. 이러한 결과는 꿀풀과 카페인산이 피부 건강에 긍정적인 영향을 미칠 수 있다는 가능성을 보여주며, 이를 활용한 새로운 피부 보호 제품 개발에 대한 토대가 될 수 있다.

Keywords

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