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Origins and Development of the Curved Water Pattern on Fabrics in Joseon Dynasty

조선시대 직물의 곡수문(曲水紋) 유래와 전개 양상

  • Seo-Young Kang (Geumgyeong Institute of Costume Culture & Design) ;
  • Boyeon An (National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage)
  • 강서영 (금경 복식문화&디자인 연구소) ;
  • 안보연 (국립문화재연구원)
  • Received : 2022.08.26
  • Accepted : 2023.01.06
  • Published : 2023.04.30

Abstract

Patterns abstractly depicting flowing water with Chinese characters such as gong, wan(man), or wang continued endlessly and curved water patterns began appearing on textiles during the Song Dynasty. Though Song curved water patterns encompassed poetic sentiments such as "falling flowers and flowing water," the meaning faded with time, and these patterns were depicted in backgrounds with flowers added to brocade (Geum-sang-cheom-hwa). During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, combinations of diverse patterns, including flowers, butterflies, dragons, and auspicious treasures became fashionable, rather than the gong- and wan-shaped curved water patterns. Likewise, during the Joseon Dynasty, curved water patterns were preferred as background rather than as primary patterns. They were overlaid with flowers and clouds. The overlaid flower patterns included four-season flower patterns (17th-18th centuries), round flower patterns (19th century), and large flower patterns (20th century), which were identical to flower patterns fashionable at the time and arranged at intervals on complex curved water pattern backgrounds. In contrast, simple Ruyi types were more numerous than the four-Ruyi types fashionable at the time with regard to cloud patterns. Added here were Taiji (great ultimate symbol) or crane patterns, thus seeking to depict diverse auspicious Ruyi such as wish fulfillment and longevity.

Keywords

References

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