Acta Via Serica

Academia Via Serica (계명대학교 실크로드연구원)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

The Long Floating Scarf: A Special Ornament of Cloth in Chinese Art

  • Tianshu ZHU (Department of History, Faculty of Arts and Humanities at University of Macau)
  • Published : 2025.06.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

There is a phenomenon in Chinese pictorial art that has never received adequate scholarly attention, i.e., the depiction of figures with traditional Chinese cross-collared clothes, called hanfu 汉服 or "Han cloth," with a long, thin, and often floating scarf, seen not only on women but also men. In these depictions, the scarf is merely a motif that, in art, is usually reserved for Daoist deities, immortals, and ancient beauties; it is not a real scarf as it would appear in daily use. The use of this motif was clearly influenced by Buddhist art and it originated from Central Asia, from which it was originally derived from the upper garment of ancient Indian dress and Greco-Roman costume as filtered through the Parthian and Sasanian empires. In the past, scholars have usually focused their studies either on the scarves as used by real people in daily life in one region of one period, or scarf images only as they appear in Buddhist art. This study, for the first time, details the development of this motif across the art of Eurasia of different cultures and religions of over a thousand years. The scarf, although only a minor element in a painting or sculpture, reflects a grand and complex history of cross-cultural and cross-religious transmission and exchange.

Keywords

References

  1. Bader, O. N., and A. P. Smirnov. Serebro zekamaskoie pervykh vekov nasheiery (Bartymskoie mestonakhozhdenic) Cepeбpo зекамаскоие первйкх веков насхеирй (Бартймскоие местонакхозхдениц) [Silver of the Kama region of the first centuries of our area: The locality of the bartym finds]. Trudy Gosudarstvennogo Istoricheskogo Muzeia, Pamiatniki Kul'tury Трудй Государственного Историцхеского Музеиа, Памиатники Кул'ту, vyp. XIII (1954). Gosudarstvennoie Izdatel'stvo.
  2. Bunker, Emmy C. "The Spirit Kings in Sixth Century Chinese Buddhist Sculpture." Archives of Asian Art 18 (1964): 26–37.
  3. Chai Zejun 柴澤俊. Shanxi gudai caisu 山西古代彩塑 [Ancient painted sculptures of Shanxi]. Wenwu Chubanshe, 2008.
  4. Chang Qing 常青. "Beichao shiku shenwang diaoke shu lue" 北朝石窟神王雕刻述略 [Brief studies on Shenwang sculptures in the caves of the Northern dynasties]. Kaogu 考古 12 (1994): 1127–41.
  5. Changzhoushi Bowuguan 常州市博物馆. "Changzhoushi nanjiao Qijiacun huaxiangzhuan mu" 常州市南郊戚家村畫像磚墓 [Painted-brick tomb in Qijia Village in the Southern suburb of Cangzhou city]. Wenwu 文物 3 (1979): 32–41.
  6. Changzhoushi Bowuguan 常州市博物館 and Wujinxian Bowuguan 武進縣博物館. "Jiangsu changzhou nanjiao huaxiang huawenzhuan mu" 江蘇常州南郊畫像 花紋磚墓 [Paintedbrick and patterned-brick tombs village in the Southern suburb of Cangzhou, Jiangsu]. Kaogu 考古 12 (1994): 1097–1103.
  7. Duan Wenjie 段文進. "Mogaoku Tangdai yishu zhong de fushi" 莫高窟唐代藝術中的服飾 [Clothing in Tang art of Mogao caves]. In Xiangda xiansheng jinian lunwen ji 向達先生紀念論文集. Xinjiang Renmin Chubanshe, 1986.
  8. Dunhuang Wenwu Yanjiusuo 敦煌文物研究所. Zhongguo shiku: Dunhuang Mogaoku IV 中國石 窟：敦煌莫高窟 IV [Chinese caves: Dunhuang Mogao caves IV]. Wenwu Chubanshe, 1987.
  9. DunhuangYanjiuyuan 敦煌研究院. Dunhuang shiku quanji 2 敦煌石窟全集 2 [Complete collection of Dunhuang caves]. Shangwu Yinshuju, 2002.
  10. Fajans, Salomea. "Recent Russian Literature on New Found Middle Eastern Metal Vessels." Ars Orientalis 2 (1957): 55–76.
  11. Fu Weijie 付衛傑. "Dui Qingzhou qijisi chutu yijian beeping ershi zaoxiang shidai de kaozheng: jian tan Qingzhou beichao wanqi beipingshi zaoxiang de fazhan yanbian guilu" 對青州七級寺出土一件背屏2式造像時代的考證--兼談清州北朝晚期背屏式造像的發展演變規律 [A study on the date of a screen-back type-two stele from Qiji Temple in Qingzhou]. Dunhuang yanjiu 敦煌硏究 1 (2019): 44–53.
  12. Gao Cheng 高承. Shiwu jiyuan 事物紀原 [Compound source of matters and facts]. Zhongguo Shuju, 1985.
  13. Gao Chunming 高春明. Zhongguo fushi mingwu kao 中國服飾名物考 [Studies on clothing and accessories in China]. Shanghai Wenhu Chubanshe, 2001.
  14. Ghirshman, Roman. Parthes et Sassanides [Parthians and Sassanids]. Paris: Gallimard, 1962.
  15. Ghurye, Govind Sadashiv. Indian Costume. Popular Book Depot, Bombay, 1951.
  16. Grabar, Oleg. Sasanian Silver: Late Antique and Early Medieval Arts of Luxury from Iran. The University of Michigan Museum of Art, 1967.
  17. Grenet, Frantz. "Beichao Sute bentu naguweng shang de Xianjiao zhuti" 北朝粟特本土納骨甕上的祆教主題 [Zoroastrian themes on Sogdian urns of the Northern dynasties]. Translated by Mao Min 毛民. In 4–6 shiji de bei Zhongguo yu Ouyadalu 4–6世紀的北中國與歐亞大陸 [The Northern China of the fourth-sixth centuries and Eurasian continent], edited by Zhang Qingjie 張慶捷, Li Shuji 李書吉, and Li Gang 李鋼. Kexue Chubanshe, 2006.
  18. Grünwedel, Albert. Alt-Kutscha: archäologische und religionsgeschichtliche Forschungen an Tempera-Gemälden aus buddhistischen Höhlen der ersten acht Jahrhunderte nach Christi Geburt. Veröffentlichungen der Preussischen Turfan-Expeditionen [Alt Kucha: Archaeological and religious historical research on paintings from Buddhist caves of the first to eight centuries. Publications of the Prussian Turfan expeditions]. Elsner, 1920.
  19. Hallade, Madeleine. "The Ornamental Veil or Scarf." East and West 15, no. 1/2 (1964): 36–49.
  20. Hangzhoushi Wenwu Kaogu Yanjiusuo 杭州市文物考古研究所 and Yuhang Bowuguan 余杭博物館. Yuhang Xiaohengshan Dongjin Nanchao mu 余杭小横山东晋南朝墓 [Tombs of the Eastern Jin and Southern dynasties at Xiaohengshan mountains in Yuhang]. Wenwu Chubanshe, 2013.
  21. Henan Sheng Gudai Jianzhu Baohu Yanjiu Suo 河南省古代建築保護研究所. Baoshan Lingquansi 寶山靈泉寺 [Lingquan Temple at Baoshan Mountain]. Henan Renmin Chubanshe, 1991. 
  22. Hiroshi Sofukawa 曽布川寛. Liuchao diling 六朝帝陵 [Imperial tombs of the six dynasties]. Translated by Fu Jiang 傅江. Nanjing Chubanshe, 2004.
  23. Huang Nengfu 黃能馥 and Chen Juanjuan 陳娟娟. Zhongguo fuzhuang shi 中國服裝史 [History of Chinese clothing]. Zhongguo Luyou Chubanshe, 1995.
  24. Huitu sanjiao yuanliu soushen daquan (wai erzhong) 繪圖三教源流搜神大全(外二種) [Illustrated comprehensive collection of the search for divinities of the three religions]. Shanghai Guji Chubanshe, 2012.
  25. Jilinsheng Wenwu Gongzuodui 吉林省文物工作隊. "Jilin Ji'an Wukuifen sihao he wuhao mu qingli lüe ji" 吉林集安五盔墳四號墓和五號墓清理略記 [Brief report on the no. 4 and 5 tombs at Wukuifen in Ji'an, Jilin]. Kaogu 考古 2 (1964): 59–66.
  26. Jing An'ning 景安寧. Yuandai bihua: Shenxian fuhui tu 元代壁畫:神仙赴會圖 [Wall paintings of the Yuan dynasty: Deities and immortals attending an assembly]. Beijing Daxue Chubanshe, 2016.
  27. Kawami, Trudi. "Clothing II: In the Median and Achaemenid Periods." Encyclopaedia Iranica 5, no. 7 (1992): 737–39.
  28. Li Dianfu 李殿福. "Jilin Ji'an wukuifen sihao mu" 吉林集安五盔墳四號墓 [No. 4 tomb at Wukuifen in Ji'an, Jilin]. Kaogu xuebao 考古學報 1 (1984): 121–36, 157–62.
  29. Li Yanshou 李延壽. Nan shi 南史 [History of the Southern dynasties]. Zhonghua Shuju, 2016.
  30. Lin Shuzhong 林树中. 1977. "Jiangsu Danyang Nanqi lingmu zhuanyin bihua tantao" 江苏丹陽南齊陵墓磚印壁畫探討 [Studies on the paintings of the imperial tombs of the Southern Qi dynasty in Danyang, Jiangsu]. Wenwu 文物 1: 64–73.
  31. Liu Jiangsheng 刘江生 and Yang Yi 杨一. "Hubei Xiangyang qilin qingshuigou nanchao huaxiangzhuan mu fajue jianbao" 湖北襄陽清水溝麒麟南朝画像砖墓发掘简报 [Brief report on the painted-brick tombs of the Southern dynasties at Qilin in Qingshuigou, Xiangyang, Hubei]. Wenwu 文物 1 (2017): 21–39.
  32. Liu Jiangsheng 刘江生 and Yang Yi 杨一. "Hubei Xiangyang Shizhuang nanchao huaxiangzhuan mu fajue jianbao" 湖北襄陽柿莊南朝畫像磚墓發掘簡報 [Brief report on the painted-brick tombs of the Southern dynasties at Shizhuang in Xiangyang, Hubei]. Wenwu 文物 8 (2019): 38–48.
  33. Liu Weipeng 劉衛鵬. "Zhejiang Yuhang xiaohengshan nanchao huaxiangzhuan mu feixian he xianren" 浙江余杭小橫山南朝畫像磚墓飛仙和仙人 [Flying immortals and immortals in the image-brick tombs at Xiaohengshan Mountains in Yuhang, Zhejiang]. Zhongguo guojia bowuguan guan kan 中國國家博物館館刊 9 (2016): 31–51.
  34. Loschek, Ingrid and Gundula Wolter. Reclams Mode-und Kostüm Lexikon [Reclam's dictionary on fashion and costume]. Reclam, 1999.
  35. Lu Qiang 呂薔. "Ji'an Gaogouli bihua mu zhong de yueqi tuxiang yanjiu" 集安高句麗壁畫墓中的樂器圖像研究 [Studies on the images of musical instruments in Goguryeo tombs in Ji'an]. Master's thesis, Northeast Normal University, 2019.
  36. Ma Xizhe 马希哲. "Zhongguo zhonggu shiqi pibo de wenhua shi kaocha" 中國古代中古時期披帛的文化史考察 [The cultural history study of ancient Chinese scarf of the medieval period]. PhD dissertation, Peking University, 2008.
  37. Meng Sihui 孟嗣徽. Yuandai jinnan siguan bihua qun yanjiu 元代晉南寺觀壁畫群研究 [Studies on the wall paintings of the Yuan dynasty in the Jinnan region]. Gugong Chubanshe, 2011.
  38. Nagahiro, Toshio 長広敏雄. Unkō to Ryūmon 雲岡と龍門 [Yuangan and Longmen]. Chuo Kyojin Art Publishing, 1964.
  39. Orbeli, J., and C. Trever. Orfèvrevie sassanide [Sassanid Goldsmithing]. Academia, 1935. 
  40. Peck, Elsie Holmes. "The Representation of Costumes in the Reliefs of Taq-i-Bustan." Artibus Asiae 31, no. 2/3 (1969): 102–04. https://doi.org/10.2307/3249427
  41. Peck, Elsie Holmes. 1992. "Clothing IV: In the Sasanian Period." Encyclopedia Iranica 5, no. 7 (1992): 739–52.
  42. Qinghaisheng Wenwuchu 青海省文物處 and Qinghaisheng Kaogu Yanjiusuo 青海省考古研究 所, ed. Qinghai enwu 青海文物 [Cultural relics of Qinghai]. Wenwu Chubanshe, 1994.
  43. Sarianidi, V. "Traces of Parthian Culture in the Cemetery of Tillya Tepe (Afghanistan)." In The Art and Archaeology of Ancient Persia: New Light on the Parthian and Sasanian Empires, edited by Vesta Sarkhosh Curtis, Robert Hillenbrand, and J. M. Rogers. I. B. Tauris Publisher, 1996.
  44. Sebesta, Judith, and Larissa Bonfante. The World of Roman Costume. University of Wisconsin Press, 1994.
  45. Seiichi Mizuno 水野清一 and Toshio Nagahiro 長広敏雄. Yun-Kang: The Buddhist Cave-Temples of the Fifth Century A.D. in North China. Jimbunkagaku Kenkyusho Kyoto University 1951–1956.
  46. Shen Congwen 沈從文. Zhongguo gudai fushi yanjiu 中國古代服飾研究 [Studies on ancient Chinese clothing and accessories]. Shanghai Shudian Chubanshe, 2002.
  47. Sheppard, Carl D. 1981. "A Note on the Date of Taq-i-Bustan and Its Relevance to Early Christian Art in the Near East." Gesta 20, no. 1 (1981): 9–13. https://doi.org/10.2307/766822
  48. Shi Weixiang 史葦湘 et al. Dunhuang bihua fuyuantu 敦煌壁畫復原圖 [Restoration images of Dunhuang paintings]. Jiangsu Fenghuang Yishu Chubanshe, 2013.
  49. Sichuan Bowuyuan 四川博物院 et al., ed. Sichuan chutu nanchao fojiao zaoxiang 四川出土南朝佛教造像 [Buddhist status of the Southern dynasties excavated in Sichuan]. Zhonghua Shuju, 2013.
  50. Simmi, Jain. Encyclopaedia of Indian Women Through the Ages: The Middle Ages. Vol. 2. Kalpaz Publications, 2003.
  51. Soper, Alexander C. "Northern Liang and Northern Wei in Kansu." Artibus Asiae 21, no. 2 (1958): 131–64. https://doi.org/10.2307/3248871
  52. Stein, Aurel M. Ancient Khotan: Detailed Report of Archaeological Explorations in Chinese Turkestan. Clarendon Press, 1907.
  53. Sun Ji 孫機. 1984. "Tangdai funu de fuzhuang yu huazhuang" 唐代婦女服裝與化妝 [Women's clothing and makeup in the Tang dynasty]. Wenwu 文物 4 (1984): 57–69.
  54. Sun Li-nan 孫力楠. "Dongbei diqu gongyuan 2–6 shiji muzang bihua yanjiu" 東北地區公元2–6 世紀墓葬壁畫研究 [Studies on tomb paintings in the Northeast region from the second to sixth centuries]. PhD dissertation, Jilin University, 2008.
  55. State Hermitage Museum, Institute of Oriental Manuscripts, and Russian Academy of Sciences. The Caves of One Thousand Buddhas: Russian Expeditions on the Silk Route. The State Hermitage Publisher, 2008.
  56. Tong Wen'e 童文娥. "Nü xiaojing tu: tuwen weizhi de chongjian" 《女孝經圖》圖文位置的重 建 [Reconstructing the composition of illustrations and text in the 'Illustrated classics of femal filial pieties']. Gugong wenwu yuekan 故宮文物月刊 265 (2005): 20–41.
  57. Vaidya, Chintaman Vinayak. Epic India, or, India as Described in the Mahabharata and the Ramayana. Asian Educational Services, 2001.
  58. Vout, Caroline. 1996. "The Myth of the Toga: Understanding the History of Roman Dress." Greece & Rome 43 (1996): 204–20. https://doi.org/10.1093/gr/43.2.204
  59. Wang Huaqing 王華慶, ed. Qingzhou bowuguan 青州博物館 [Qingzhou Museum]. Wenwu Chubanshe, 2003.
  60. Wei Shou 魏收. Weishu 魏書 [History of the Wei synasty]. Vol. 120, book 6. Zhonghua shuju, 1974.
  61. Wen Wucheng 溫五成. "Gongyuan 1 zhi 3 shiji zhong de xian fo moshi" 公元1至3世紀中的 仙佛模式 [The immortal and Buddha system from the first to third centuries]. Dunhuang yanjiu 敦煌硏究 1 (1999): 159–70.
  62. Wenwubu Wenhuaju 文物部文化局 and Gugong Bowuyuan 故宮博物院, ed. Quanguo chutu wenwu zhenpin xuan 1976–1984 全國出土文物珍品選 1976–1984 [Selected master pieces of national cultural relics excavated from 1976–1984]. Wenwu Chubanshe, 1987.
  63. Xi'an Beilin Bowuguan 西安碑林博物館, ed. Xi'an Beilin Fojiao yishu 西安碑林佛教藝術 [Buddhist art in Xi'an Beilin]. Shaanxi Shifan Daxue Chubanshe, 2010.
  64. Xinjiang Weiwuer Zizhiqu Wenwu Guanli Weiyuanhui 新疆維吾爾自治區文物管理委員會, ed. Zhongguo shiku: kezier shiku 1 中國石窟: 克孜爾石窟 1 [Chinese caves: Kizil caves I]. Wenwu Chubanshe, 1989.
  65. Xu Bangda 徐邦達. "Cong bihua fuben xiaoyang shuo dao liangjuan songhua: Chaoyuan xianzhang tu" 從壁畫副本小樣說到兩卷宋畫: 朝元僊杖圖 [From a manual copy of mural paintings to two scroll paitings of the Song dynasty: Caoyuan Xianzang Tu (Heavenly Court Painting)]. Wenwu cankao shuju 文物參考數據 2 (1956): 57–58.
  66. Xu Xinguo 徐新國. "Qinghai pinganxian chutu donghan huaxiangzhuan tuxiang kao" 青海 平安縣出土東漢畫像磚圖像考 [Study on an image on a tomb brick of the Eastern Han unearthed in Anping County, Qinghai]. Qinghai shehui kexue 青海社會科學1 (1991): 76–84.
  67. Yagi Haruo 八木春生. "Dunhuang Mogaoku di 257 ku yanjiu yi de" 敦煌莫高窟第 257窟研究一得 [Study on Dunhuang Mogao cave 257]. In 2000 Dunhuangxue guoji xueshu taolunhui wenji (shiku yishu juan) 2000年敦煌學國際學術討論會文集 [Proceedings of the international conference of Dunhuang studies in 2000]. Gansu minzu Chubanshe, 2003.
  68. Yagi Haruo 八木春生. "Guanyu Longmen shiku binyangzhongdong feitian de yanjiu" 關於龍 門石窟賓陽中洞飛天的研究 [Studies on Feitian images in the Middle Cave of Binyang at Longmen]. Meishu daguan 美術大觀 8 (2022): 10–17.
  69. Yang, Xin et. al. Three Thousand Years of Chinese Painting. Yale University Press, 1997.
  70. You Zhenke 尤振克. "Jiangsu Danyang xian huqiao jianshan liangzuo Nanchao muzang" 江蘇丹陽縣胡橋、建山兩座南朝墓葬 [Two tombs of the Southern dynasties at Huqiao and Jianshan in Danyang County, Jiangsu]. Wenwu 文物 2 (1980): 1–17, 98–101.
  71. Yu Changying 于長英. Gudai xiapi zhidu chutan 古代霞披制度初探 [A preliminary study of the ancient Xiapi system]. Master's thesis, Nanchang University, 2007.
  72. Yuan Jieying 袁傑英. Zhongguo lidai fushi shi 中國歷代服飾史 [History of Chinese clothing of various periods]. Beijing Gaodeng Jiaoyu Chubanshe, 1994.
  73. Yungang Shiku Wenwu Baoguansuo 雲崗石窟文物保管所. Zhongguo shiku: Yungang shiku 1 中國石窟: 雲岡石窟 1 [Chinese caves: Yungan caves I]. Wenwu Chubanshe, 1991.
  74. Zhang Qingwen 張清文 and Shi Yiyuan 史一媛. "Shan di fengliu: Weijin mingshi yong shan za kao" 扇底風流: 魏晉名士用扇雜考 [Wind under the fan: A miscellaneousstudy of famous figures from the Wei and Jin dynasties using fans]. In Dajiang zhi men 大匠之門 [The gate of great craftsmen] 20, edited by Beijing huayuan 北京畫院. Guangxi Meishu Chubanshe, 2018.
  75. Zhang Shan 張珊. "Cong nanchao 'feixian' dao beichao 'feitian'" 從南朝'飛仙'到北朝'飛天' [From the flying immortals of the Southern dynasties to the flying apsaras of the Northern dynasties]. Meiyu shidai 美與時代 10 (2020): 40–43.
  76. Zhongguo Meishu Quanji Bianji Weiyuanhui 中國美術全集編輯委員會, ed. Zhongguo meishu quanji: Huihua bian: Huaxiangshi huaxiangzhuan vol. 18 中國美術全集: 繪畫編: 畫像石 畫像磚 [Complete works of Chinese art: Paintings: Stones and bricks with images]. Shanghai Renmin Meishu Chubanshe, 1973.
  77. Zhongguo Siguan Bihua Quanji Bianji Weiyuanhui 中國寺觀壁畫全集編輯委員會. Zhongguo siguan bihua quanji 中國寺觀壁畫全集 [Complete works of temple mural paintings in China]. Guangdong Jiaoyu Chubanshe, 2011.
  78. Zhu, Tianshu. "The Sun God and the Wind Deity at Kizil." In Ērān ud Anērān, Webfestschrift Marshak Studies Presented to Boris Ilich Marshak on Occasion of His 70th Birthday, edited by Matteo Paola Raffetta Compareti and Gianroberto Scarcia. Transoxiana, 2003.
  79. Zhu Tianshu. "Dui Yindu shenzhi de geyi: shenwang yanjiu" 对印度神祗的格义: 神王研究[Defining Indian deities through Chinese terms: Studies on spirit kings]. Xingxiang shixue 形象史學 25, no. 1 (2020): 22–41.