The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (복식문화연구)

The Costume Culture Association (복식문화학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Transmedia storytelling in fragmented fashion group exhibitions - Immersion, resonance, and narrative coherence -

  • Zhuoyao Li (Dept. of Design & Craft, Graduate School, Hongik University) ;
  • Jin Joo Ma (Graduate school of fashion, Hongik University)
  • Received : 2025.04.08
  • Accepted : 2025.07.18
  • Published : 2025.08.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

Transmedia storytelling (TS) narrates and supplements a storyworld in a unified and coordinated manner across multiple media channels and forms. It overcomes the limitations of traditional media's singularity and restricted reach by leveraging digital technologies. Advancing digital technologies have introduced diverse media into fashion exhibitions, supplementing interpretation and expanding the storyworld to aid the understanding of fashion's social, cultural, and artistic meanings. This study aims to examine the effectiveness of social media in facilitating TS within fashion exhibitions. In researching this topic, we studied the concepts and applications of TS and social media in fashion exhibitions, using a 2023 fashion week organised by a South Korean universityas a case study. Purposeful sampling involved interviews and questionnaires with exhibition committee members, participants, and visitors. Reflective thematic analysis (RTA) was employed to iteratively analysis the data. This study clarifies the unique functions of various media forms and channels in TS for fashion group exhibitions, with a focus on their synergistic effects. Reflective thematic analysis of the results indicate that TS effectively addresses the challenges of narrating complex and fragmented exhibitions by attracting visitors, supplementing content gaps, and expanding engagement. The collected data offers empirical evidence of TS's potential in emerging exhibition storytelling and highlights Instagram's key function within a TS system.

Keywords

References

  1. Andò, R., Briatore, S., & Denaro, G. (2023). Rethinking fashion storytelling through digital archives and immersive museum experiences. In L. Cantoni, V. Neri, N. Sabatini, T. Sádaba, & A. Tosi (Eds.), Fashion communication in the digital age (pp. 279-289). Cham: Springer. doi:10.1007/978-3-031-38541-4_26
  2. Armstrong, T., & Detweiler-Bedell, B. (2008). Beauty as an emotion: The exhilarating prospect of mastering a challenging world. Review of General Psychology, 12(4), 305-329. doi:10.1037/a0012558
  3. Belova, A. D. (2021). Storytelling in advertising and branding. Cognition, Communication, Discourse, 22, 13-26. doi:10.26565/2218-2926-2021-22-01
  4. Binder, P. E., Holgersen, H., & Moltu, C. (2012). Staying close and reflexive: An explorative and reflexive approach to qualitative research on psychotherapy. Nordic Psychology, 64(2), 103-117. doi:10.1080/19012276.2012.726815
  5. Bouzida, F. (2014). The semiology analysis in media studies: Roland Barthes approach. Proceedings of SOCIOINT14-International Conference on Social Sciences and Humanities, 8(10), 1001-1007.
  6. Boyatzis, R. E. (1998). Transforming qualitative information: Thematic analysis and code development. London: Sage.
  7. Braun, V., & Clarke, V. (2006). Using thematic analysis in psychology. Qualitative Research in Psychology, 3(2), 77-101. doi:10.1191/1478088706qp063oa
  8. Braun, V., & Clarke, V. (2012). Thematic analysis. In H. Cooper, P. M. Camic, D. L. Long, A. T. Panter, D. Rindskopf, & K. J. Sher (Eds.), APA handbook of research methods in psychology, Vol. 2 (pp. 57-71). Washington: American Psychological Association. doi:10.1037/13620-004
  9. Braun, V., & Clarke, V. (2013). Successful qualitative research: A practical guide for beginners. London: Sage.
  10. Braun, V., & Clarke, V. (2014). What can "thematic analysis" offer health and wellbeing researchers? International Journal of Qualitative Studies on Health and Well-being, 9(1), 26152. doi:10.3402/qhw.v9.26152
  11. Braun, V., & Clarke, V. (2019). Reflecting on reflexive thematic analysis. Qualitative Research in Sport, Exercise and Health, 11(4), 589-597. doi:1080/2159676X.2019.1628806 1080/2159676X.2019.1628806
  12. Braun, V., & Clarke, V. (2021). Can I use TA? Should I use TA? Should I not use TA? Comparing reflexive thematic analysis and other pattern‐based qualitative analytic approaches. Counselling and Psychotherapy Research, 21(1), 37-47. doi:10.1002/capr.12360
  13. Braun, V., & Clarke, V. (2022). Conceptual and design thinking for thematic analysis. Qualitative Psychology, 9(1), 3-26. doi:10.1037/qup0000196
  14. Byrne, D. (2022). A worked example of Braun and Clarke's approach to reflexive thematic analysis. Quality & Quantity, 56(3), 1391-1412. doi:10.1007/s11135-021-01182-y
  15. Clark, J., de la Haye, A., & Horsley, J. (2014). Exhibiting fashion: Before and after 1971. New Haven: Yale University Press.
  16. Colares, C. (2020). The ephemeral established: An analysis of the narratives of fashion exhibitions (2009-2019). In D. Raposo, J. Neves, J. Silva, L. C. Castilho, & R. Dias (Eds.), Advances in design, music and arts: 7th meeting of research in music, arts and design, EIMAD 2020, May 14-15, 2020 (pp. 285-298). Cham: Springer. doi:10.1007/978-3-030-55700-3_20
  17. Davids, Z., & Brown, I. (2021). The collective storytelling organisational framework for social media use. Telematics and Informatics, 62, 101636. doi:10.1016/j.tele.2021.101636
  18. Dept. of Design & Craft, Graduate School, Hongik University [@hongikfashionweek.grad]. (2023, November 27), Hongik Fashion Week 2023 [Instagram Photograph]. Retrieved March 14, 2024, from https://www.instagram.com/p/C0I4GgKLep3/
  19. Dept. of Textile ArtㆍFashion Design, Hongik University [@hongikfashion_official]. (2023a, October 31). Hongik fashion graduation exhibition open [Instagram Video]. Retrieved March 14, 2024, from https://www.instagram.com/p/CzC9c9vprQT/
  20. Dept. of Textile ArtㆍFashion Design, Hongik University [@hongikfashion_official]. (2023, August 22-2024, February 28). [Posts on the Instagram of the Department of Textile Art and Fashion Design] [Instagram Photograph]. Retrieved March 14, 2024, from https://www.instagram.com/hongikfashion_official/
  21. Dept. of Textile ArtㆍFashion Design, Hongik University [@hongikfashion_official]. (2023b, August 28). Preview of worknotes of the students preparing for the 2023 graduates [Instagram Photograph]. Retrieved March 14, 2024, from https://www.instagram.com/p/CweoLxtJ5QD/
  22. Dept. of Textile ArtㆍFashion Design, Hongik University [@hongikfashion_official]. (2024, February 28). [Photograph of Textile design and textile art exhibition] [Instagram Photograph]. Retrieved March 14, 2024, from https://www.instagram.com/p/C337PqwpbYJ/
  23. Frith, H., & Gleeson, K. (2004). Clothing and embodiment: Men managing body image and appearance. Psychology of Men & Masculinity, 5(1), 40-48. doi:10.1037/1524-9220.5.1.40
  24. Gambarato, R. R. (2020, October 29). Crossmedia, multimedia and transmedia. Serious Science. Retrieved March 20, 2024, from https://serious-science.org/crossmedia-multimedia-and-transmedia-10276
  25. Guest, G., MacQueen, K. M., & Namey, E. E. (2012). Applied thematic analysis. Thousand Oaks: Sage.
  26. Hati, S. R. H., Kamarulzaman, Y., & Omar, N. A. (2024). Has the pandemic altered luxury consumption and marketing? A sectoral and thematic analysis. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 48(2), e13013. doi:10.1111/ijcs.13013
  27. Hayati, D. (2012). Transmedia storytelling: A study of the necessity, features and advantages. International Journal of Information and Education Technology, 2(3), 196-200. doi:10.7763/IJIET.2012.V2.108
  28. Jenkins, H. (2006). Convergence culture: Where old and new media collide. New York: New York University Press.
  29. Jenkins, H. (2007, March 21). Transmedia storytelling 101. Henry Jenkins. Retrieved October 20, 2023, from http://henryjenkins.org/blog/2007/03/transmedia_storytelling_101.html
  30. Joffe, H. (2011). Thematic analysis. In D. Harper & A. R. Thompson (Eds.), Qualitative research methods in mental health and psychotherapy: A guide for students and practitioners (pp. 209-223). Oxford: Wiley-Blackwell. doi:10.1002/9781119973249.ch15
  31. Kim, S. J., Kim, K. H., & Mattila, P. (2012). The role of fashion in the characters of online games. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 3(2), 81-88. doi:10.1080/20932685.2012.10593110
  32. Kulesz, O. (2020, April 23). Supporting culture in the digital age. International Federation of Arts Councils and Culture Agencies. Retrieved December 2, 2024, from https://ifacca.org/en/news/2020/04/23/supporting-culture-digital-age/
  33. Lim, H., & Childs, M. (2020). Visual storytelling on Instagram: Branded photo narrative and the role of telepresence. Journal of Research in Interactive Marketing, 14(1), 33-50. doi:10.1108/JRIM-09-2018-0115
  34. Lincoln, Y. S., & Guba, E. G. (1985). Naturalistic inquiry. Newbury Park: Sage.
  35. Linfante, V., & Pompa, C. (2021). Space, time and catwalks: Fashion shows as a multilayered communication channel. ZoneModa Journal, 11(1), 15-42. doi:10.6092/issn.2611-0563/13100
  36. Loecher, N., Jordan, A., Spunt, S. L., Simon, P., Simons, L. E., ... Heathcote, L. C. (2024). "You don't accept he's completely ok": A reflexive thematic analysis of parents' roles in monitoring their child's health and symptoms after finishing childhood cancer treatment. Journal of Cancer Survivorship, 18(3), 950-959. doi:10.1007/s11764--023-01353-w
  37. Lund, N. F., Cohen, S. A., & Scarles, C. (2018). The power of social media storytelling in destination branding. Journal of Destination Marketing & Management, 8, 271-280. doi: 10.1016/j.jdmm.2017.05.003
  38. McLuhan, M. (1964). Understanding media: The extensions of man. New York: McGraw-Hill.
  39. Melchior, M. R., & Svensson, B. (2014). Fashion and museums: Theory and practice. London: Bloomsbury.
  40. Miles, M. B., & Huberman, A. M. (1994). Qualitative data analysis: An expanded sourcebook (2nd ed.). Thousand Oaks: Sage.
  41. Museum of Modern Art [MOMA]. (1944a). The Museum of Modern Art. Retrieved October 19, 2023, from https://www.moma.org/documents/moma_press-release_325481.pdf
  42. Museum of Modern Art [MOMA]. (1944b). The Museum of Modern Art. Retrieved October 19, 2023, from https://assets.moma.org/documents/moma_press-release_325462.pdf
  43. Moloney, K. (2014, April 21). Multimedia, crossmedia, transmedia… What's in a name? Transmedia Journalism. Retrieved December 2, 2023, from https://transmediajournalism.org/2014/04/21/multimedia-crossmedia-transmedia-whats-in-a-name/
  44. Monti, G. (2021). Zurich, 1970. The Exhibition Balenciaga: Ein Meister der Haute Couture. Fashion Theory, 25(4), 513-539. doi:10.1080/1362704X.2021.1905951
  45. Mostafa, M. M. (2023). Four decades of hijab research: Knowledge structure, thematic evolution and collaborative networks. Journal of Islamic Marketing, 14(8), 1960-1988. doi:10.1108/JIMA11-2021-0357
  46. Noris, A., & Cantoni, L. (2024). "The good Italian": Fashion films as lifestyle manifestos. A study based on thematic analysis and digital analytics. Fashion Theory, 28(2), 151-173. doi:10.1080/1362704X.2024.2323363
  47. O'Neil, A. (2018). Staging fashion in Somerset House, London. In A. Vänskä & H. Clark (Eds.), Fashion curating: Critical practice in the museum and beyond (pp.105-118). London: Bloomsbury
  48. Page, R. (2015). The narrative dimensions of social media storytelling: Options for linearity and tellership. In A. De Fina & A. Georgakopoulou (Eds.), The handbook of narrative analysis (pp. 329-347). Chichester: Wiley Blackwell.
  49. Palmer, A. (2018). Permanence and impermanence: Curating western textiles and fashion at the Royal Ontario Museum. In A. Vänskä & H. Clark (Eds.), Fashion curating: Critical practice in the museum and beyond (pp. 39-56). London: Bloomsbury. doi:10.5040/9781474287135.ch-002
  50. Park, S. H., & Yim, E. (2018). Analysis of fashion narrative by communication platforms: Louis Vuitton as a case study. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 26(6), 994-1014. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2018.26.6.994
  51. Patton, M. Q. (2002). Two decades of developments in qualitative inquiry: A personal, experiential perspective. Qualitative Social Work, 1(3), 261-283. doi:10.1177/1473325002001003636
  52. Peel, K. L. (2020). A beginner's guide to applied educational research using thematic analysis. Practical Assessment, Research and Evaluation, 25(2). doi:10.7275/ryr5-k983
  53. Perannagari, K. T., & Chakrabarti, S. (2020). Factors influencing acceptance of augmented reality in retail: Insights from thematic analysis. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 48(1), 18-34. doi:10.1108/ijrdm-02-2019-0063
  54. Petrov, J. (2019). Fashion, history, museums: Inventing the display of dress. London: Bloomsbury Academic.
  55. Post, R. A. G., Blijlevens, J., & Hekkert, P. (2016). 'To preserve unity while almost allowing for chaos': Testing the aesthetic principle of unity-in-variety in product design. Acta Psychologica, 163, 142-152. doi:10.1016/j.actpsy.2015.11.013
  56. Ritchie, J., & Spencer, L. (2002). Qualitative data analysis for applied policy research. In A. M. Huberman, & M. B. Miles (Eds.), Analyzing qualitative data (pp. 173-194). London: Routledge. doi:10.4135/9781412986274.n12
  57. Ryan, M. L. (2004). Narrative across media: The languages of storytelling. Lincoln, London: University of Nebraska Press.
  58. Ryan, M. L., & Thon, J. N. (2014). Storyworlds across media: Toward a media-conscious narratology. Lincoln and London: University of Nebraska Press.
  59. Ryan, M. L. (2015). Transmedia storytelling: Industry buzzword or new narrative experience? Storyworlds: A Journal of Narrative Studies, 7(2), 1-19. doi:10.5250/storyworlds.7.2.0001
  60. Sandhya, G., & Mahapatra, S. K. (2018). Thematic analysis to assess Indian consumers purchase intention for organic apparel. The Qualitative Report, 23(8), 1962-1982.
  61. Satariano, N. B., & Wong, A. (2012). Creating an online strategy to enhance effective community building and organizing. In M. Minkler (Ed.), Community organizing and community building for health and welfare (pp. 269-287). New Brunswick: Rutgers University Press. doi:10.36019/9780813553146-017
  62. Scolari, C. A. (2009). Transmedia storytelling: Implicit consumers, narrative worlds, and branding in contemporary media production. International Journal of Communication, 3, 586-606.
  63. Soames, M., & Willis, M. (2024). Making sense of burnout: A reflexive thematic analysis of how teachers in England discuss and encounter the term burnout. Qualitative Health Research, 34(1-2), 61-71. doi:10.1177/10497323231203639
  64. Steele, V. (2008). Museum quality: The rise of the fashion exhibition. Fashion Theory, 12(1), 7-30. doi:10.2752/175174108X268127
  65. Terry, G., Hayfield, N., Clarke, V., & Braun, V. (2017). Thematic Analysis. In C. Willig, & W. S. Rogers (Eds.), The SAGE handbook of qualitative research in psychology (pp. 17-36). London: Sage. doi:10.4135/9781526405555.n2
  66. Teunissen, J. (2014). Understanding fashion through the museum. In M. R. Melchior & B. Svensson (Eds.), Fashion and museums: Theory and practice (pp. 33-45). London, New York: Bloomsbury. doi:10.5040/9781350050914.ch-002
  67. Tierney, S., & Fox, J. R. (2010). Living with the anorexic voice: A thematic analysis. Psychology and Psychotherapy: Theory, Research and Practice, 83(3), 243-254. doi:10.1348/147608309X480172
  68. Tobin, G. A., & Begley, C. M. (2004). Methodological rigour within a qualitative framework. Journal of Advanced Nursing, 48(4), 388-396. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2648.2004.03207.x
  69. Velar, M. (2021). Luxury fashion storytelling: Branding performance on Instagram. In L. Cantoni, F. Cominelli, N. Kalbaska, T. Sádaba, & M. Torregrosa Puig (Eds.), Fashion communication (pp. 309-320). Cham: Springer. doi:10.1007/978-3-030-81321-5_23
  70. Vrencoska, G. (2015). Museum fashion exhibitions: The fashion designer as an artist and new paradigms of communication with the audience. New Space in Art and Science, 515-528.