권호 표지

Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume

  • Bimonthly
  • /
  • 1229-6880(pISSN)
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  • 2287-7827(eISSN)

Domain

  • Culture/Arts/Sports ＞ Clothing Design
  • Human Ecology ＞ Clothing

Aim & Scope

한국복식학회 학술지 ‘服飾’은 복식전공분야의 학문적 교류를 통한 복식학 분야의 발전에 이바지함을 그 목적으로 하고 있습니다. 즉 각 전공분야의 정보를 신속하게 공유하여 복식 산업발전에 기여하며 패션산업 현장에서의 디자인을 비롯한 여러 분야의 연구에 실질적인 도움을 주고자 합니다. ‘服飾’ 학술지에는 복식사, 복식미학 및 패션디자인, 패션마케팅, 및 심리, 의복구성 및 텍스타일, 복식일반을 비롯한 복식 전반에 걸친 학자들의 연구 성과를 싣고 있습니다. ‘服飾’은 2003년부터 한국연구재단 등재학술지로 지정되었으며, 지금까지 연 10회 발행되던 학술지를 게재논문의 질적 향상을 위하여 2020년부터는 연 6회 발행하고 있습니다. 또한 논문 Full-Text등을 전산화하여 인터넷에서도 검색이 가능한 정보화사업을 하고 있습니다. The purpose of the Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (JKSC), the academic journal of the Korean Society of Costume (KSC), is to contribute to the development and diversity of the study of costume by becoming a means to scholarly exchange. In other words, the goal is to contribute to the development of the fashion industry and to give practical assistance to various design-related research by prompt exchange of information from the various fields of costume studies. JKSC covers a broad spectrum of research outputs from the field of costume studies, such as the history of costume, dress aesthetics, fashion design, fashion marketing, psychology, clothing construction, and textiles. First published in 1977, JKSC has been listed on the Korean Citation Index (KCI) by the National Research Foundation of Korea (NRF) since 2003. Once published as frequently as 10 times per year, the JKSC has, since 2020, been published six times per year in order to better promote the qualitative improvement of its academic papers. KSC is now in the process of informatizing a system to provide a range of online services, while its full-text electronic resources are already available online.

http://onkjournal.co.kr/sobis/ksc.jsp KSCI KCI

Volume 55 Issue 7 Serial No. 98

  1. Park Yoon-Jeong;Yang Sook-Hi 1
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this research was to re-illuminated the artistic value of costumes that had shared identical history with human beings through the formation and the progress of the newly introduced Russian avant-garde an. This resulted from the fact that the Russian avant-garde art changed the human esthetic sense through the style of art that Larionov and Goncharova introduced in the 20th century. The research method defined the formation and the progress of the development of the Rayonism centering the works of art by Larionov and Goncharova. Based on this method, larionov and Goncharova designed the set and the costumes for the Ballets Russes of Serge Diaghilev and studied the molding characteristics of the costumes worn in the performing an. The result were as follows. First of all, Larionov's costumes of art were all manufactured based on the theme of nature and genesis. In other words, Larionov represented the sun as a humanistic god through the white night, the natural weather condition of northern Russia. His costumes also displayed the symbolic meaning of the personification of animals like birds and cats, which emphasized the importance of both nature and tradition. However, he used Rayonism expression when he designed costumes by applying the nature themes. On the other hand, Goncharova applied the Spanish passion, the Russian folk art lubok, and goldern cockerel or religious icon-paintings in her costumes. she pursued straight lines and abstract shapes in her costume design. her design displayed the Rayonism influence through the separation between the lines and the surfaces, whic defined the costumes as a decorative art experiment. Therefore, the study of Larionov and Goncharova had one realize that Rayonism was not only an art form of Avant-garde, but it also became the basis of the molding character of all the artworks. Larionov and Goncharova reflected the miracle of the transformation of the 20th century in their costume designs.
  2. Lee Ji-Hyoun;Chung Eun-Sook 22
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study is to analyze TV drama clothes that is reflected in domestic TV fashion style. Frist of all, luxiry look is one of drama cloth's signiture look. It takes a imported brand wear and a high price accessories. Especially, the hero and heroine of the drama 'Fine lady' wear imported brand jacket and a accessories as earrings, shoes and bags are in fashion. Also the hero of the drama 'The room of a roofiop's cat' wear Armani shirts and Kenzo suits. Second, nowadays sportive look is one of fashion trend and young people's representative look. The drama 'The room of a rooftop's cat' has define trends when it comes to training wear. And the training wear is a big hit because of drama 'The room of a rooftop's cat' hero and heroine. Third, utility look shows a practical wear and comfortable wear The utility look's items is shirring T-shirt, cargo pants and jeans. In addition to that drama's hero and heroine make a lots of fashion. The hero of drama 'Winter sonata' of hair style and matching muffler is in fashion. Also TV drama's fashion is a potent influence.
  3. Seo Seung-Mi 38
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study is first, to see through the aesthetic essence of the clothing as art, through theoretical consideration of cultural feature and body style in Postmodern Feminism. Also, this study will examine the aesthetic value in artistic meaning regarding a Deformational body image in visual an. Second, this study will analysis the formative character of Modern Art to wear which expressed unfixed body style, followed by the change of Postmodern Feminity, as a Deformation image. This character will be categorized by Expansion, Grotesque, Pleasure, and Virtuality. The following is the result of this study. Expansion expressed in modern Art to wear created intentional structure of the form, and intentionally presented refusal of body existence through disembodied. Grotesque expressed refusal and deviation of women's ideal body style, which is defined by mannish discourse, very grotesquely. Pleasure pleasantly presented free emotion through an intentional transformation like distortion or imbalance of the body By paradoxically reproducing women's virtual body as other unfixed female identity was expressed visually through virtuality to embody post-gender.
  4. Ryu, Se-Ja;Park, Meegn-Ee 51
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study is to identify function of make-up as an Important variable in terms of its influence to psychology of performers and outcome of their performance. From June to November 2004 performers in 4 types of fields, i.e., opera, musical, drama and dancing being performed in Seoul and Cheongju were chosen as subjects and totally 450 questionnaires were prepared and distributed and among them 416 were used as data for final analysis. For data analysis frequency analysis, factor analysis, T-test, one-way ANOVA, path analysis, chi-square test were conducted by means of SPS 12.0 and MOS 4.0 statistical programs and as ex post facto checking Duncan's multiful range test was conducted. Make-up is an important element in acting and it has great influence on level of psychological satisfaction of an individual. It was disclosed that psychological factor of concentration and lethargy have direct bearing on acting performance. In order to maximize actor or actresses performance skill perfect make-up is essential and role of make-up specialist can become a critical factor for inducing success in performance. Role and duty of make-up artists in terms of scope of their responsibility should be extended so that they may give their full support to the performers to be most successful in their performance.
  5. Kim Sun-Young 62
    PDF KSCI
    This study is focused on main performers' stage costumes in the 'Swan Lake', a masterpiece of classical ballet, which Is newly represented by Matthew Bourne, a choreographer. The objectives of the study is to help understand a trend of costume in modern public performance and art. First, this paper is attempted to describe the concept and the elements of ballet costume, secondly, to consider the performance generally, and finally to analyze main performers stage costumes. This study was performed by two processes; The first was to visit theaters to view the performances in person: the classical ballet by the Bolshoi Theater Ballet, the performance by Korea national ballet academy and the Matthew Bonne's modernly redefined ballet. The second was to review the regarding literatures and DVD. There are two apparent characteristics of main performers' stage costumes in modern-style ballet compared with classic-style ballet. First, there is an approach to gender identity; the character of swan with the classic tutu that has been the culmination of femininity in the classic-style ballet, used to be represented in an established idea on ballet costume, is now substituted by a creative idea, male ballerina and trouser-style ballet costume. Second, there is an approach to breaking the convention on the purpose of emphasizing popularity arousing real sympathy and art value. Also, modern-style ballet introduces bare body and ffot rather than tutu and toe-shoes, and adapts items from casual outfit fitted in earh performer's character with a present-day life.
  6. Lee, Mi-Yoen 76
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    The aim of this study is to define the concept of the matchless, and its social and cultural origins. I shall also define the different types of Matchless style, the respective characteristics of each style, and the distinguishing features of this style in domestic street fashion. In order to do this, 1 have referred to several published studies and a number of Web-sites of Korean fashion information companies for my research. The results of this study are the following; 1. The concept of matchless is a positive way of self-expression by coordination, created by consumers who attach great importance to their image and to developing their individual style. Also, this concept constitutes a new approach to code which reanalyzes existing styles with a new sensitivity. 2. The social & cultural origins of matchless are the expansion of fear of war and terror, and economic depression, the extension of the 5-day workweek, interest in 'Well-being', and the phenomena of cultural diversity. 3. The types of Matchless are Style Matchless, Theme Matchless, Texture Matchless, Season Matchless, and Complex-Layered Matchless. 4. The distinguishing features of Matchless in street fashion are the distinction of formal & Casual wear's Matchless, the creation of a new Look in Sports & Casual wear's Matchless, the development of a new coordinated, layered look, the immense popularity of Denim, the new fashionable versions of Military style, and the renaissance of the Romantic Feminine Look.
  7. Hwang Mi-Sun;Lee Myoung-Hee 89
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study was to find out differences of visual evaluation according to perceiver's personality(introvert-extrovert) and clothing styles. Subjects were 120 women in age from 18 to 31 years in Seoul. The stimuli of 7 clothing styles were used for visual evaluation. Three dimensions of visual evaluation were derived by falters analysis: elegance, activity individuality, and fashionability. The pants suit was estimated low in activity individuality and fashionability, but the hip-hop style high in activity individuality. The skirt suit was rated high in elegance, but the 8th length pants low in elegance. Personality had significant influences on the evaluation of activity individuality. Extrovert women perceived all stimuli to be more active and individual than introvert. Fashionability factor had an interaction effect by personality and clothing expenses. The introvert women in low clothing expenses group evaluated the stimuli to be more fashionable than the introvert in high clothing expenses group. There were significant differences in preference of all clothing styles according to personality. Extrovert women liked 8th length pants more than introvert. The introvert women in low clothing expenses group liked the skirt suit less than the extrovert.
  8. Lee Ji-Young;Kim Yong-Sook 101
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this research was to identify the perception maps of Imported make-up brands and advertising images by analyzing their ads in periodicals from 2004 S/S. A self-administered questionnaire included seven adjectives to describe the brand and advertising images of the imported make-up products. Data was analyzed by using the KYST, CORAN, and SPSS programs, the positioning through Multi-Dimensional Scaling. The results of the research were as follows: 1. The perception of the brand images of Chanel, Chiristian Dior, and Lancome was the highest. The advertising images of Clinique and Bourjois were the highest and that of Shiseido was the lowest. 2. The respondents perceived Christian Dior and Chanel to be similar in the brand image factors of good quality, sophistication and uniqueness. Christian Dior, Chanel, and Lancome were all perceived similarly in their degree of familiarity and level of stimulation.
  9. Choi Soo-Hyun 114
    PDF KSCI
    In postmodernism, the sublime that reaches ecstasy overcoming terror or pain is described as the most expressive phenomenon. The purpose of this study is to understand the sublime expressed in contemporary fashion. for this purpose, 1 investigated the theories of the sublime, categorized the definition and modes, then applied those categories for contemporary fashion. Documentary studies were conducted through aesthetic, design and fashion books and the demonstrative studies were processed by analyzing photos from fashion magazines. In the history of aesthetics, the sublime is explained as the ambivalent feeling mixed with pain and pleasure, terror and delight or negation and affirmation. In this study, the sublime could be defined as the aesthetic pleasure through the transcendence of the pain and terror and classified into 3 categories, the tragic, the initiative, and the deconstructive. The tragic sublime that includes the terrific, the disgusting and the religious character is expressed through the image of death or the physical torture, the satanic image or disgusting object and the ascetic image and religious sign or icons. The limitless sublime that includes the giant and the dynamic character is accomplished by consist of the elongation or the enlargement and the powerful authority. The deconsturctive sublime that includes the negative, the indeterminate and the complex character is associated with the deconstruction in style, the reversal of image and the destruction of the space of the body. Analysis on the sublime expressed in contemporary fashion may provide an excellent way for understanding human aesthetic consciousness in dress.
  10. Choi Hai-Yaul 131
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study is to correctly understand the shapes and transformation of costumes of Ching's and Mongolian. Mongolian traditional costumes are trousers and jacket, with Deel(袍) and Terlig(帖裡) pleated in the waistline, and knee-covering narrow-sleeved long dress for men and women alike. It was designed for adapting to horse riding activities and cold steppe climate. Similarity between Ching's and Mongolian nomadic costumes was used as a means of unity by Ching. Transformation of Mongolian nomadic costumes are further divided into three kinds; Ching's or Russian's details applied to Mongolian nomadic costumes(Taekeum(大襟), Majesu(馬蹄袖), white choker), Ching's court costume imported as it is for the political purpose(Kijang(기장)), resistance against foreign countries and the spirit of nomadic people and independence reflected in Mongol costumes('Teregur ushi', 'Correct bosom'). Specially, Nomadic symbols constitute Mongolian spiritual world and clothing habits, especially evident in ladies' dresses.
  11. Yim Lynn;Kim Eun-Jung 142
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    This study shows historical Gagye(가계) The process of change and Characteristics through analysis on the old documents, related papers, and visual data, and represents its meaning in Korean Clothing history through analysis on originality of Korean Gagye(가계) style. Gagye(가계) is the cubic hair style which add other accessories on hair and is divided into two; Gagye(가계) and Chegye(체계) according to its material, role, and function. And Korean Gagye(가계) has been transformed suited to the times and showed various features according to pattern, wearing, and decoration aspect. In its style aspect, Korean Gagye(가계) style shows Hwangye type, Sseugae type, Gogye type, Dagye type, and Braided & coiled hair type. Each shows historical features. In its Wearing aspect, Gagye(가계) style shows Wearing ornamental hairpin on the head, Wearing Rag Ribbon on the head, and Attaching (Detaching) Wearing. And in its Decoration aspect, Gagye(가계) style shows decoration with accessories, one with flower arrangement, and one with shaking.
  12. Huh Jung-Sun;Geum Key-Sook 156
    PDF KSCI
    As contemporary art tends to diverge from its fixed genres and intends to appeal to the public, fashion comes to contribute to the contemporary art area, by playing an important part in the creation of artistic value of art work. Nowadays, it is not unusual to see fashion work shown in an art exhibition parallel with art work, since some artists adopt costumes as the medium of their work in order to explore various means of expression. The occurrence of philosophical, sociological theories concerning human body parallelled with the prevalence of the post-structuralist ideas and occurrence of various styles of artistic expressions of body encouraged active research and attracted social attention to body. With such background, fashion art was formed by a means of the integration of body and fashion in order to create extreme artistic expression. 1 intend to investigate a variety of trends in fashion art from the viewpoint of body space. This study developed criteria for fashion image in contemporary art. Those criteria are based on the dichotomy that divides body into inner aspects and outer aspects. According to the criteria, Firstly, the extension type of body shape includes enlargement and reduction as its sub-types. Secondly, the opening-closure type includes opening type and closure type as its sub-types. Thirdly, the intensity type categorizes clothes into uniqueness and hybridity. Dynamism type classifies fashion art into fixation and moving. The various expressions of clothes type are interpreted as a means by which we can criticize many phenomena of modern society, such as loss of humanity, isolation of individuals, loss of identity, commercialism, and materialism. In the latter period of modern society, the integration of the double-faced nature of body and spirit was attempted and popular fashion was introduced into art in order to express desire, death, gender, identity, and sexual pleasure.